/r/AnalogCommunity
A place for the film photography/videography community to discuss whatever you want. The sister sub of r/analog, where all of the non-photo-sharing stuff happens!
A place for the film photography/videography community to discuss whatever you want. This is the sister sub of r/analog, where all of the non-photo-sharing stuff happens!
1) No photo posts that belong in /r/Analog
2) When asking for help, give all the images and information you have available; help others help you.
3) No personal attacks
4) No selling/trading/adverts. Use dedicated communities, such as /r/photomarket.
Weekly: Ask Anything About Analog
/r/AnalogCommunity
So there is this video I came across a few times where the entire music video is from the perspective of an RB67 or maybe an RZ67 or Pentax 67. I just can't find the music video and it would be great if someone is able to link me the video. I've hunted and hunted but I just can't find it.
hello hello
I have some old negatives that were shot on 120 cameras with 135 negatives. the sprocket holes are lovely in them.
what's the best way to scan them with the sprocket holes on my epson?
Found a disposable camera from a field trip I had about 12-13 years ago. It’s been in the basement of my house the whole time as far as I know. I was going to finally get it developed and then scan them myself using my digital camera + easy35 I have. But I was curious if it’ll still even have anything left on them?
I haven’t been able to find an adapter that converts Classic Olympus OM mount lenses to Canon FD mount camera. I assume there just isn’t enough demand for it. Would it be possible to 3D print one? The flange distance of the OM mount is 46mm and FD mount is 42mm. Is there anything that could interfere with the mount?
Heads spinning cuz I spent the past few hours scrolling through eBay and reviews to find a 35mm point and shoot I can take with me when I travel but many seem to be overpriced for what they are(according to reviews and other threads).
- the olympus mju ii: seems highly coveted but averages around $360 on eBay
- contax tvs: a decent alternative to the contax t2 however, still around $400 on eBay
- Fuji Tiara mini: super adorable and decently positive reviews, however also mentions it breaks easy plus around $300 for a decent one on eBay
- Konica Big Mini: mixed reviews, decent condition ones around $200/220
I have been using a Fuji Cardia Hite Date for the past 1.5 years and didn't have too many issues other than it being a bit bulky. Spent around $70 including shipping on eBay
In short, would ideally like a camera no more than $150 that's compact, easy to use, easy to take on the go. If a point and shoot is really worth then willing to loosen the purse strings. Will take any rec's... pls help
I'm looking to convert raw images of negatives into lossless digital images. To be clear, I'm not trying to invert the negatives, only to convert raw images of negatives to non-raw images of negatives.
Obviously the image needs to be demosaic'd, and the film border should probably be used for the white balance. But beyond that, what are tools/settings that could be used for this conversion with as little loss as possible? Yes, raw images with minima processing would look extremely "flat", yes that would be acceptable if not desirable in this case.
I'd want to do this for archival purposes, or for importing into negative inversion software later.
I’m a big analog nerd and love to explore shops in different parts of the country. Any recommendations for the Baltimore/DMV area?
$35 for the lot. So far, only tested the Pentax IQZoom, but it looks like the Sure Shot is working as well. If you’re in Santa Fe, I left some other gems behind at the Savers on Cerrillos, go catch em!
I’m very new to film point and shoot cameras and am confused if my camera is operating properly. When I take a picture I make sure either the focus (green light) or flash (orange) light are solid and not blinking. I see the shutter fire through the view finder and the film advances. However, sometimes I do not hear the “click” noise of the shutter and it is silent but the shutter still fires and the film advances. If I do not hear the click noise are these photos not taking or is this something that is normal?
Still very new to photography, and I understand photo obviously isn’t great haha but I’m curious what causes the vertical lines running through the bottom half? I notice them in a handful of photos that are darker.
Canon A2E and T80, Nikon 5005 and a Yashica Tr7000 They got them at an estate sale and didn't feel like testing them. Really pumped to try out the Canon A2e.
Hey! I’ve been mulling this over for a while now but I’m ready to make the leap to 6x17. As of now from my own research I’m leaning towards the Fuji G617 but I’m open to other suggestions if there’s better alternatives. Does anyone have thoughts or opinions on the G617 vs going down a different route say like 4x5 with a 6x17 back?
Hi, I'm a total rookie on this topic and I'm looking forward to get started on it. I've found a deal on a Petri 7s with a 45mm lens and a busted photometer, aside from that looks working a okay, it costs around 47USD, is it a good deal? should I look for another piece of gear? any particular recommendations for a beginner? if not, what should I get and why?
thanks in advance (this is my first post)
Hi everyone, I shot a roll of Kodak Gold 200 on a cloudy day in a forest yesterday (maybe not the best choice!). I shot it at box speed. I have a couple questions...
Would it be worth pushing this film by 1 stop in development to get some better results? Or would it be better to just hope for the best.
In the future, would shooting Kodak gold at 400 be a better choice as it'll give me sharper images in cloudy conditions? (- some brightness?)
Thanks for any help. A further complication is that this is one of 2 rolls of Kodak Gold that I need to send in for development, and I have forgotten which it is! So, I'll either send them both to be pushed by 1 stop, or neither.
I am curious. I have only once took an Instax mini film, put it into a 6x9 folding camera and then put it in the Instax Evo to develop. Aside from not having a larger format, such as 4x5 to work with, is there a way to do something similar?
I thought I was going to handle this decision myself, but I can't. I have those two to chose, and I have no idea which too. The f3 is probably in worse condition, as It's prism cover is hit, and LCD view in prism is slightly tilted. There is also no motor cover cap, but I can 3d print that. F2's light meter works, and I have 30 days warranty.
Unfortunately F2AS are too expensive. This F3 price is a surprise, but the seller has good customer reviews, so I trust rest works.
I'm looking at next camera and these are two of the options that I have available, at the moment I am leaning towards the Nikon but I wanted to see what opinions people in the actual analog community had so I can consider all that I can