/r/AnalogCommunity
A place for the film photography/videography community to discuss whatever you want. The sister sub of r/analog, where all of the non-photo-sharing stuff happens!
A place for the film photography/videography community to discuss whatever you want. This is the sister sub of r/analog, where all of the non-photo-sharing stuff happens!
1) No photo posts that belong in /r/Analog
2) When asking for help, give all the images and information you have available; help others help you.
3) No personal attacks
4) No selling/trading/adverts. Use dedicated communities, such as /r/photomarket.
Weekly: Ask Anything About Analog
/r/AnalogCommunity
so I'm completely new to analog photography and decided I'm gonna start by shooting on a point and shoot and see if I go anywhere from there. I really loved the idea of having a lil camera with film and taking pics with it on my adventures and then having an album of all those pics.
so I started in summer with a camera that I actually found at home (Minolta F10). it was my dad's. sadly though I didn't realize it didn't have an autofocus but a fixed focus so all the up close pics were blurry. however there were still some that turned out good so I was happy. I decided to get a diff camera tho. there is a website where they test and clean second hand analog cameras. however you definitely spend more than 100€ on there. I saw few people claim that it's quite a bit and a lot of them said that they shop for cameras on ebay. so that's what I did. I found a YouTube video about a camera that looked good to me and I also found it for under 100€ on ebay (Minolta Capios 25. so I ordered it.
it came and worked! yes they claimed it will but it was my first time ordering from ebay so I didn't know how legit it will be. so I started shooting. I really enjoyed shooting with it. I sent the film to the lab and it arrived. welp and there were light leaks. sadly I'm pretty sure they're coming from the front and read that it's pretty common on some cameras to have leaks around the lens. I have to admit that this completely defeated me. I spent money on a camera that's faulty, can't return it nor fix it. now I'm just wondering what to do. I saw a post of someone using a duct tape to fix it and at this point I don't think I can lose anything by trying this. idk how much it will work tho.
I really loved that this camera had the option to zoom in and a panorama mode. do all point and shoot cameras with zoom have the possibility of the lens letting in light (aka the light seals failing)? or is it just specific cameras? should I get a camera with the option to zoom in or rather not to prevent this from happening? should I spend over 100€ for my first camera so at least I have the certainty of the camera working well? I'm not saying I expected to have great pics on the first try or no fails. but once it's a second roll that ended up bad then it simply does start to feel a tiny bit frustrating. is this common or do I simply have bad luck?
Looking to do some experiments and attempt a home regrind and repolish of my front lens element. But the element is held into a metal frame. How do you get it out of the frame for working?
Hello gentlemen! I've recently bought a 1985 Jupiter 12 for my 1976 Kiev-4M. The lens seemed in very good shape, the glass was pristine, so I bought it.
After a couple of attempts to mount it, a couple of swear words and a bit of brute force too, and after a quick Google search, I came to the conclusion that there's something wrong with the bayonet mount on the lens.
At first I thought there was some sort of difference on the mounting positions, due to the decade difference between the manufacture dates. But after looking at photos on the internet (see attached photo) I think I found my culprit: the red dot on the bayonet should be aligned with the red mark for the range, that corresponds to the infinity setting when mounting it (so basically the 2 static red marks aren't where they should). I don't know if I'm actually right, but probably as you're reading this, I'm in the process of gutting that poor Jupiter. What leads me to belive I'm right though, are little wear marks on the screws that hold the "sleeve" of the bayonet, that lead me to belive it has been tampered with in the past (the seller said it did fit an actual contax when i bought it, so what do I know?...)
Sadly the Kiev Survival Site did not offer such info as far as i'm aware.
So, if anyone has knowledge regarding this, let me know, I would really appreciate the help.
Whenever I hold the shutter to check the light meter, sometimes it’ll go over but some of the time there is a slight scratching noise with the over light turning off and on repeatedly. It doesn’t happen again after a few minutes, anyone else experience this? Should I just buy a new yashica electro 35 gsn?
How much does import duty typically run to the US from the many Japanese eBay camera sellers? Seem to be some Decent deals there.
I’m really excited so I wanted to share it. About a month or so ago I decided to sell my DSLR and get a film SLR (which I had always been fascinated with since school). Started with the Minolta, loved it so much, got it a little sister, the Fujica ST701 (the metal body and the chrome rings on the lens is a beaut, n the light meter works too). I intend to use this Fujica as a daily carry, it’s sturdier metal and was cheaper. Got another Fujica on the way.
New to the photography world and have (possibly) a dumb question. I'm heading to Vegas in a few weeks and plan to shoot at night. How much lighting is needed to get by without the flash? Will the city lights themselves be enough to produce good pictures? I don't mind using it, was just curious if anyone had experience shooting there and what they prefer.
Hi, I'm a total beginner at film (has only ever touched a phone camera gen z person) im looking to start film photography on my vacation. I'm looking for help for what film camera would work for this lens that this camera I inherited for. The flash it came with is broken. I'm would like to get a manual camera that uses 35mm film, but Idk what I'm doing here.
p.s. my bad I thought I added pics?? i keep forgetting reddit doesn't do that? it's a Canon eos 700 with matching zoom ef lenses 35-80mm power zoom 1:4 - 5.6
I recently picked up a Nikon Fg for a very cheap price. It's in ok shape. But the mirror is stuck up, I looked on YouTube for some videos and they say the foam above the mirror could be the reason. Because it is sticky,well that isn't the reason as that was changed. Also I took the bottom plate off and one of the wires came off from the soldered area and I don't know where it goes back on to. Any ideas or pictures would be helpful. Also it is missing the back door. Any ideas on what could be the problem with the mirror! Thanks I only paid $16 us and it came with a nice Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 lens .
Swung by an estate sale today for half of day haggled then down to 400 total. Don't skip those estate sales.
A lot of us get G.A.S. Remember to go out and shoot and not worry so much about buying gear. Don’t buy gear at a rate that’s faster than you actually learning your gear and making images.
Does someone knows what it could be? I’ve never had this problem before. I believe I’m loading it right at least.
But the blinking pannel kinda pisses me off.
Hello everyone, I got my first SLR as a gift, a Minolta SRT100. It came with two lenses a 58mm and a 138mm, and I started shooting b&w so I can understand more about how to properly focus and expose.
Recently I shot a roll of Flic film's Elektra 100 (Kodak Aerocolor) and the results were not great.
A part from my struggle to properly focus the scene (I am trying to get better at it), there was also a color grade (greenish / overexposed ?) that did not correspond to the film. I have a light meter so the film was properly exposed but it happened only to the pictures taken with the 58mm.
Elektra 100 is a film stock that I have used before so I know is not the film, what I would like to know is if there is a way to "fix" the lens.
Any kind of help will be greatly appreciated.
Nice, clean look
Pretty stoked about these and wanted to show them off.
Just picked up the lense. Any idea why the infinity focus won't quite work? Tried it on the moon tonight and it just barely doesn't focus.
I just bought a Mamiya 645J with the metered prism finder that has the aperture pin. I can’t seem to be able to fully rotate the lens out because the pin stops the lens teeth from completing the rotation. Is there some safety mechanism that I need to release or is there something wrong?
Hi everyone, I'm trying to disassemble this Tessar 50 f2.8. I'm hoping someone has insight on how to remove the front barrel. All the tear downs of this zebra version I've seen have 3 screws under the vanity plate. I've also tried to unscrew it like I've seen done on other versions of the lens, but it won't budge. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Have had the Pentax 17 in hand for a few days now and am very happy with it but one thing keeps bothering me.
When closed it's like it's not firmly in place, I can wiggle it a bit up and down and it makes a clicking sound when pressed in. I can live with it if that's just how the quality is but if I got a dud then I would want to know haha. Can anyone else comment about the quality of their door?
Hi all, I've currently got a Nikon FM2/T as my "main" camera and a Lomoapparat as a cheap "secondary". The idea was that I would take both with me and use different films in each one (colour and b/w, etc). I absolutely love my Nikon, but the Lomoapparat isn't blowing my hair back and as a result I've only shot a few rolls through it with results that I wasn't thrilled with.
The main reason I'm not loving the Lomoapparat is that it has zero control over shutter speed, aperture and focus. Yes, this means it's very simple to operate, but I find it also inhibits it's usability. I usually take a couple of weeks or more to go through a roll of film, and I'll often take photos indoors and outdoors in varying conditions. This doesn't suit the lomo's lack of flexibility at all. I do like the wide lens, even though it's plastic.
I've been thinking a point and shoot with a little more control would be a better alternative. I'd prefer a 35mm or wider lens, no zoom, and some manual control over ISO and/or aperture.
The Nikon L35AF seems right up my alley. It only has manual ISO control (and a +2 stop exposure compensation switch), but this should be enough control over the exposure to make it more usable day to day. It's also autofocus, but the viewfinder has a display to give you a rough idea of the distance it's focussed to which should take out some guesswork. It also has a thread for lens filters, which is a bonus. Downsides would be they're a little pricey and not exactly pocketable.
My mum also had an Olympus XA back in the day, which is a tiny rangefinder with manual focus and aperture control. Something like this would be right up my alley too. Downside is it's more expensive than the Nikon.
Any other recommendations?