can this machine be used for resurfaceing cylinder heads for cars?

PM-25MV Precision Benchtop Milling Machine

https://preview.redd.it/ghlym1vj9sge1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=7db9704247a55f1d2304b6eed8c9a43a7da856f7

I'm looking for 0-1" and 1-2" micrometers and am wondering which way to go.

The Mitutoyo (293-340-30) use an LR44 battery while the Shars uses a CR2032 which I prefer, however, the Shars is most likely made in China while the Mitutoyo is made in Japan.

They are priced within $10 of each other.

We've only one good lathe for precision work, but the chucks too big for small work. But sure look where there's a will there's a way

Been looking into getting a small lathe as I have a couple projects in mind that I currently have to outsource. Used to occasionally work with a big lathe in the past but never used a smaller asian import or a machine with VFD before.

Looking into these 2 options 250x550 norton gearbox without variable speed so need to change belts. https://www.hbm-machines.com/nl/p/hbm-250-norton-profi-metaaldraaibank

Or 210x400mm with variable speed. https://www.hbm-machines.com/nl/p/hbm-210-vario-metaaldraaibank-met-hbm-a0-snelwisselhouder

Fully aware of the difference in size, weight and rigidity of these machines and bigger is better.

Presume the variable speed has more issues when it comes to torque on lower speed. Just worried I am going to get frustrated of changing belts all the time. The need to change belts is the only thing that makes me hold off on just buying the 250x550.

Materials I plan on turning are Delrin, aluminum, (stainless)steel, brass and copper. Or for short pretty much anything. One thing I am going to be doing alot is single point threading.

So any advice and suggestions are welcome.

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Edit to add: The machine I operate is a 'RUBIG MICROPULS - Model Diamond Xtended - DLC Coating Furnace'

I'm sorry if this is posted in the wrong group, please let me know where to post if this is not fitting.

To make a long story short, I am currently working in manufacturing where I was thrown into a position 3 years ago to run a Nitride Furnace, which I wasn't familiar with. No body else in this shop understands this machine and often plays the blame game with me, stating their process is correct and I am the one who making mistakes. My superiors do not give me the time of day to learn or give suggestions.

I really enjoy heat treatment, it is a trade I would like to continue doing. Whether I stay with this company or do heat treatment somewhere else or stay where I am, I have some questions and I hope Reddit can help me here.

What should be used to clean these parts? Machinists run it through a parts washer with some sort of anti rust cleaner and then clean them off with Crystal Simple Green Solution. As I have read, this degreaser is not designed for metal. The company then instructs me to clean the parts with Methanol Alcohol or 99% alcohol manually with a rag to 'remove dirt and thumb prints', which I am then grabbing dirty mechanical masking to fill the cavities, to which I am then grabbing these steel/metal parts with contaminated gloves.. Should I be masking, then cleaning these parts with a different product all at once?

We have seen significant arcing through the sputtering process which causes lightening bolts more often than not and is destroying material. We are using 8620 materials and we are constantly only using '1 recipe' for every single load, regardless of size of the load or part. I have this can be caused by dirty, contaminated parts as well as a 'hallow cathode effect'. Parts are being burnt out, destroyed, expanding too much, expanding too little. I can't win but I do not want to be discouraged from this career path.

Can somebody please explain to me the proper process for all of this? I work in a manufacturing facility that does not understand or care to maintain their own equipment. I can post a link to videos I have taken for reference if needed.

https://preview.redd.it/m9hs2kwt9dge1.jpg?width=4030&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ea81c22fdefc7273075a05ed110abc29605b785

Edit: Based on various comments, I decided to stick with the hacksaw method and face off the part. Thank you all for your advice!

I have a small tabletop lathe (most of you wouldn't even dare to consider this a lathe I'm guessing) which works well for brass, aluminium and with some patience If works quite well for steel (4140 works quite well)

However, I need to part off a 40 mm (1.57 in) 4140 round bar and this is where the lathe is struggling a lot. I don't know what else to try: 1) I already locked all axes, except the cross slide. 2) I use the thinnest parting blade I could find (1.5mm) and made it as sharp as possible. Still, I'm getting a ton of vibration. even with lowest rpm which is around 100 rpm

But, what seems to work is moving the cross slide till it contacts the material, then adding .05 to .1mm to it and then turning the chuck by hand for 1-2 rotations till the material is cut off, occassionally using the chuck key to get some extra leverage, and then moving the cross slide again. It doesn't take a lot of force at all. I'm seriously considering to part off the the piece by hand. Might take a while but probably still less than using a hacksaw and face planing it on the lathe.

The work piece ways around 3.5 pounds. The lathe weighs 26.5...

Is there any good reason why I should not do it manually?

At work our Okuma Cnc uses M03, M04 for CW and CCW. G02/G03 is rarely used. I am thinking that you would use G02 to go up and around the radius to the end of the 23mm length. Then again go down and up the V profile. Followed by a short X20,Y0, then down, pauses and around. For a total of 5 uses of G02 (b)

The problem with the test is you never get it back so you never know what you got wrong. I also know cncs prefer to use climb milling whenever possible as they’re equipped with backlash eliminators.

Looking for input.

I need to bore this damaged droupout on my dirt bike suspension. The factory bolts were not fully shanked, leaving exposed threads to cut and slightly enlongate the frame. I know that reaming would leave a better finish/tolerance for a press fit opposed to drilling out the hole for a bushing. Would an adjustable hand reamer be my best bet? Should I drill it out from 8mm to 9 and then gradually ream to 10?

Purchased a set of Irwin countersink bit to clean up drilled holes in aluminum, but I can't seem to get a smooth cut - the countersink bits chatter and make a very uneven bumpy surface. Any advice? Is it the bit or am I doing something wrong?

https://preview.redd.it/5ratyuksm7ge1.png?width=1033&format=png&auto=webp&s=077bd18341264a34d68f421493c592cb88e47ab6

IRWIN Tools 1877791

We perform measurements on parts after turning and milling operations on a simple workbench located in front of the machine. The bench is covered with a rubber PVC plastic sheet, and during measurements, we frequently flip and rotate the parts.

The parts can weigh up to 30 kg and are made of ductile cast iron with no heat treatment. Since the surface is critical for our customer, they have raised concerns that the parts might get scratched during handling and measuring and suggested using a different material instead of PVC.

I have researched some alternatives. Do you think these would be suitable?

Polyurethane Sheet PTFE (Teflon) Sheet Silicone Rubber Sheet EVA(Ethylene-vinyl acetate) Foam

Additionally, if the material is too soft, there is a risk that chips might get trapped between the part and the surface, which could still cause scratches.

Does anyone have experience with this? Any recommendations?

Hey all, you may have seen me post once or twice about a Chinese Smithy lathe/mill combo I've been fixing up. In putting the lathe back together after replacing all the bearings I seem to have run into a bit of a hitch. The previous bearings, which were all open, were pretty much bone dry when I removed them - the "upside" to that is that they had very little resistance to them. I've replaced the regular bearings with sealed versions which seems to be fine, however the tapered bearings that hold the the main shaft for the chuck plate in place appear not to be very appreciative of the Lucas Xtra Heavy grease (the green stuff) that I packed them with, which has otherwise served me perfectly in every other application. On the higher RPM settings and completely unloaded, the lathe is failing to rev up and I get some pulsing from the lights in the room. This is happening when I've tightened the lock nut at the back just enough to get rid of any palpable play.

It looks like I'm going to have to lubricate with some other material. I have some Lucas white lithium grease but I'm worried even that might be too tacky for this application, does anyone have any advice?

Does anyone know what the AVE. is referring to or means? Never seen this on a drawing before. Other machinists here are clueless as well. Thanks in advance!

Saw: King KC-227-2 (220v) - NEW
Current blade: 10'2" x 1" x .035" x 5-8 TPI
What I'm cutting: Stacked steel flat bars
Example: 1/2" x 2" - x5pcs, 240" long, stacked side-by-side (10pcs total with 5 on each side)

Current checklist when applying a new blade:

1. Setting tension at 25 lbs/in

2. Setting blade speed at 114(35) for stainless (I cut a mix of mild and stainless and was told to just keep it at this speed as it's intended for stainless)

3. Toning the blade for the first two cuts of stacked steel. Using the slowest setting possible (1/2 speed on the diel) then upping it to 2 speed after the two cuts.

4. Making sure the saw it perfectly level with the conveyer rollers but not bottoming out on the saw.

5. Making sure there's a 1/8" gap between the blade and the wheel wall.

The first attempt went very well. The blade was cutting fine for about a week until a group of teeth that spanned maybe 5" long were suddenly shaved when cutting the flat bar.

I was told by my blade supplier to use 3-4 TPI (which im testing now) and to also try 6-10 TPI. The 3-4 blades look way too large and wide, but then again what do i know. I'm here to ask if it's the blades or maybe something im missing on my checklist.

I've noticed when spending more of my time and brain on machining I end up thinking about cutting forces and how I'm holding something when cutting food or supporting work when chopping wood or washing something stuck on or whatever.

It's mostly good in terms of safety I guess haha, but definitely feels like a shift in thinking in a lot of interactions. Has been a few years of hobby machining now and doesn't seem to be going away, so maybe it's here to stay.

Anyone else got this particular affliction? For any woodworkers, this feels like a wider version of thinking about grain direction all the time, haha

I’m working at a machining and welding job shop, and we’re currently machining a 9-inch thick plate of AISI 1045 steel on a Haas VF-7. The material has been heat treated to a minimum tensile strength of 100 KSI. I wanted to ask the following question:

Should we machine this material with or without coolant?

For some context, my company just hired a new machinist who wants to run this material without coolant. I know the answer is probably not black and white but I’d love to hear from anyone with experience working with similar materials. What’s your take on the best approach for tool life, surface finish, and overall efficiency? Any recommendations on speeds, feeds, or tool coatings would also be appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your insights!