Old owner of the house has yanked out all the cables from the patch panel and has broken the sockets. How can I repair it? If I buy the sockets, how should the individual wire orientation be

After some network and ISP issues, my household was given a new DSL modem/router to replace the broken one. Everything seems to be working fine except every few hours (exact time unsure), my upload speeds go to near 0 Mbps and it is impossible to do anything, while my download speeds are unchanged. Unplugging and replugging in my small ethernet switch seems to temporarily fix the issue but it seems to return over time. this hadn't happened at all as far as i remember with our old modem so i'm coming here to try and see if anyone has any info i'm not seeing. Thank you in advance!

What it says on the title basically, I live in an apartment and a short time ago when someone knocked on my door to ask if they could use my Wi-Fi to get an uber. I said sure, they handed me their iPhone, and I found my network, typed in my password, and that was that.

It didn't even occur to me that this may be a danger or a scam since I'm so used to them not occurring in-person as often now. Several minutes later it hit me that it was a possibility, and I looked up whether this was a specific scam or not. I couldn't find anything very similar to it, but every page I found said that giving out your password was a bad idea.

I have no real familiarity with networking at all, but I placed their iPhone on parental control after about 10 minutes and paused their access, then kicked all the devices off my network and changed the password. I have the Linksys app for my router, so I know it's not connected anymore.

What other security precautions do I need to take for this? Beyond setting up a guest Wi-Fi for any future cases, what can I do about what I just did? Are there any risks posed by them having access to my network for that perios of time? Any advice would be appreciated, because frankly I just feel foolish for having done that even if nothing turns out to be wrong.

First of all, I know just enough about networking to be dangerous. I have a home network set up between my main house and guest house with hard wire Ethernet. I get my internet using a Netgear M6 cell service with at&t. It's our only option where I live other than satellite and works pretty good (50 mbps). I have a WiFi router in each building. I want to extend my wifi to a metal barn about 300' away from the main house. I do have a weak WiFi signal outside the barn but nothing inside. I know hard wire would be best but I'd like to avoid that as it's too rocky for burial and no good overhead options. What would be the best option to get a WiFi signal into the barn that won't break the bank. I'll be happy with 10 mbps.

My computer is just not working at the speed it used to work at (500mbps). I've updated drivers, swapped cables and still when using Wi-Fi it's a similar upload/download speed. My phone Wi-Fi connection speed is still at a high level. Tried troubleshooting power modes but still lost on what I'm messing up on.

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According to the guy that installed the wifi these are for speakers in the ceiling, but I am unsure what cable I would use to connect them. An6 help is appreciated

Given that this is how my apartment is built, I want to use a mesh network to make sure I get the best coverage. The fiber optics are located on the left side which I annotated in red. The apartment is 144 square meters (~1,550 square feet). Where will you place the routers? And which one would you recommend?

So i have an Asus RT-AX86U for my router and i have 2 ISPs currently in my household. One i use as the main and the other for emergencies when the main is down. Now, i want to use the WAN aggregation function on my router but i don't know how it works. On my main ISP i get good ping on games on the other ISP the ping is bad. My question is if i use combine the 2 ISP using the WAN aggregation of my router what happens to my ping in games?

I have WoL enabled in the bios, and in the Devman settings for the adapter. I know if I disable it the computer won’t keep waking up from sleep. What I’m trying to figure out is why this is happening.

Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t there a specific signal that has to be sent from the router to the computer to wake it up? If so why is my router sending wol signals to my computer without me doing anything?

I know there’s a way to use computer X to tell the router to turn on computer Y, I don’t know how to do it but I know that’s a thing. It wouldn’t be very useful though if the router sends wol signals every time the computer is put into sleep mode though.

Do I need to do some network scanning and maybe contact my ISP or is it possible there’s someone in my network who wants to keep my pc online for some reason?

I’ve googled the issue and everyone just says disable wol, but nobody is asking the question of why and how can I fix it.

Let us call the main router A

Another router B is connected to A as a range extender. Now another router C is connected to B as a range extender as well.

The problem is that the internet is working fine and I can download at good speeds (85-90mbps on Steam) but sometimes the internet just vanishes. For a brief period there will be no internet like I could not even surf which is terrible for my trading setup. Please help me out as to what I can do to improve the network or are there any other alternatives?

I've got a duplex where I rent out the other half, and I'm thinking of sharing a gigabit fiber uplink with my tenants via wifi as an included amenity. The floorplans are mirror-images with 930 sq. ft. and 2BR on each side, and I'd be placing the wifi router as near as practical to the middle of the common dividing wall on my side.

Since I don't know what usage patterns my tenants might have, I'm most concerned about overall usability, such as mitigating potential congestion along with adequate speed for typical modern uses, rather than maximizing absolute speed for any single or limited number of client devices; my own usage is pretty minimal, just one lappy, occasional streaming, no gaming.

I'm familiar with and really like using Asus routers with FreshTomato firmware, and while an AX3000 or AC5300 router might be ideal, I wonder whether that might be overkill for my use-case if an older, cheaper model might do the actual job about as well.

Here's a few other WiFi 5 Asus router options I'm considering; which would be your pick for this use-case? Also open to other suggestions.

Or would none of the boons bolded in that chart really matter much for me, if a 1.0 GHz dual-core, 256 MB, dual-band, 3x3 MIMO, AC1900 or AC1750 unit would meet my needs about as well?

I bought a new router but our current modem/router has a coax cable. I ordered a Moca adaptor, do I just put that between the router and the coax cable? I’m trying to get better coverage in my home for now and move away from powerlines and run Ethernet to where I need it within the next couple of months

I’m looking at upgrading my router from the Verizon provided router to my own router. I have some understanding on how it all works, and understand Verizon will allow me to use my own router since we have FiOS with an Ethernet connection to the ISP provided router.

I have ran some CAT6 cables to home office from the Verizon extender router. Working on running cables to my son’s gaming computer, living room, and garage. I use Apple HomeKit for my smart automation with 3 AppleTV as the hub. The newest AppleTV is connected via Ethernet, however the AppleTV connected to WiFi tends to be the one acting as the hub.

What router would be recommended?

Would like to eventually hardwire all devices possible and have started to run wires to a utility closet where I have a small Netgear switch. The main Verizon connection, on CAT5e, comes to the living room, and have an idea on how to re-run Ethernet to the basement utility closet where I would like the main connection to be.

I work from home and I’m on video conference calls all day. I’ve had issues where my speeds have been to slow to operate both video and browse.

Verizon swapped my router and I’m getting 435 down and 367 up, old router, same model, I was getting 209 down and 13.7 up. Paying for 1Gb service

I was about to purchase TP-Link Deco AXE5300 Wi-Fi 6E Tri-Band Whole-Home Mesh Wi-Fi System from Costco for $279.99 and decided to hold off.

Recommendations?

Yes I’m over building, partially for fun and somewhat to “future proof”. For my personal house.

I’ve a friend in IT advising me but like a 2nd opinion. He said the Dream Router is perfect and the Dream Machine as a more overkill option.

1,000sq ft house, 3 wired devices (Mac, Apple TV and iPad) and then would like 2 wireless nextworks (home WiFi and home security cameras). Currently a 500mb fiber connection, used for remote work and streaming.

Thoughts?

Two products on amazon, both moca 2.5, however they boast a different capability in bandwidth. From some reading, there is a "boost" mode to maximize the bandwidth of a moca network, however i do not understand the technicalities behind this.

Another dilemma: MoCA is backwards compatible with its versions, however the network will be limited to the oldest version. In this case, both products have the same version, 2.5. What would happen if both products were on the same moca network, would they be both limited to 1gbps, or would the 2.5gb do 2.5gb while the 1gb does 1gb (although it effectively means 1gb max, a scenario might be if you had a single 2.5gb from a router, connected to multi 1gb around the rest of the house, to fully saturate the 2.5gb.

Please explain how this works thanks!

In the midst of troubleshooting my home network at the moment and still coming up short. I've searched both this sub for answers and Google as well but to no avail. Some time ago, my 5GHz network stopped appearing, so all my devices are on my 2.4.

Router: Asus RT-AX58U

ISP: Spectrum

Diagnostics performed so far:

-Reset all hardware and tried reconnecting

-Pulled admin settings via web address for router to look at the specifics: yes the SSID say it's being broadcasted. (Tried turning this on and off again, no dice)

-Smart connect is OFF (so both networks aren't merged to displayed the same SSID

-Channel bandwidth was at 20/40/80, set it to just 40. (Doesn't let me choose specific channels like 2.4 does, just set at "auto")

Any takers on what else I should be checking out? No network changes have happened recently that would have caused 5GHz not to display, Kinda at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.

so I recently upgraded my internet (with spectrum) to 500Mbps from 300Mbps, the ping on my iPhone X is usually around 12-16 but with my MacBook, the internet is a little slower and the ping is higher, around 30-90. I'm testing both of them from the same locations in the house ( it is a one-bedroom apartment) and I am testing them one after the other. Is there a way to fix the ping on my MacBook? I know that if I connect an ethernet cable it will get a lower ping but this is not really realistic in my case and the iPhone X does get a lower ping so maybe there is something I can do?

Currently have xfinity network service with their free equipment. I'm looking to get my own since I'm reading it will be better than the xfinity one. Current speed plan is 500mbps download speed. Any recommendations for modem and router?

I live in Australia with old copper wiring (fibre to the node nbn technology), the maximum speeds we can get to our property are around 35 down, and 7 up. Currently, we just have our ISP's router/modem the ZTE H1600. Our buffer bloat grade is D. Additionally, when my whole family is at home (6 people) it becomes almost unusable with siblings downloading large games frequently and movies being streamed. I've done a fair bit of research however I'm only seeing recommendations for extremely fast speeds and hearing things like routers like the eero's do more harm than good on slow speeds and have a bad range. Probably good to add that the only place we can achieve our maximum speeds is with the router at the very front of the house which makes the range already terrible. My main goal is to get something that works better than what we have now with SQM/QoS to prioritise gaming packets (or prioritise a connection type since I'm the only one who uses ethernet). I don't mind spending money so cost isn't a concern within reason. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

I’ve got a raspberry pi hosting a web server on my WiFi. The service is being hosted on port 8080, and this device and port is currently port forwarded on my router, but when I try to access the device from outside the network, the connection times out. I haven’t changed my firewall at all, and I’m not sure what to do there. I’m not sure what to do from here. Any help would be appreciated.

I have limited knowledge so excuse my ignorance (can't seem to find an answer on google) Is it possible to have a proxy server that "reroutes" internet access to other devices without my router knowing their identities? I know the password to my family's home network but internet access blocked after a certain time for some of my phone. I have a raspberry pi that I can change the visible MAC address on and am able to get around it. Is there anyway for me to "anonymize" my phone from the router using some kind of middle man device so it can't block my MAC address? Any insight or advice would help a lot. Or just pointing me in the right direction so I can do my own research.

There is free wifi at a church about 300 ish feet away from my house. Is there a way to boost my computer's wifi adapter in order to get the range required? Or is it impossible without some sort of extender? Also is this illegal?

(each dotted square is 1 house)

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Please do not suggest me an Ethernet cable as I more than know about the advantages of that. My modem is in another room and I’m trying to give my entire house reliable wifi when everyone is on their devices and I’m heavily gaming, hoping we can all enjoy the 1 gig plan we’re actually paying for.

I currently have a Arris S33 modem on Amazon in my cart and just need a good wifi router now. I appreciate the suggestions given to me!

So the biggest question is, i read about these routers that have 2 to 4 external antenna connections but they never state on the sales site if any of those are for 4g.
Which in my case who doesn't have 5g stand alone in my country I need 5g NSA which relies on 4g thus my requirement of having the choice to put up external 4g antennas as well.

The price..put it this way fiber is never coming to my little town of mostly elderly people and the two towers that have 4+5g have low band 5g, they're fairly close to me both of em but... you know.

Im just looking for really good routers that checks those tees i listed and has a good 5g modem.
Any experts in here, please share you knowledge.

The mounting hardware that came with this is for flat mounting on the wall or ceiling but after testing, my best option for this would be a corner mount for best coverage—but I can’t seem to find any hardware for corner mounting it.

I have a few 2x4s and I’m willing to build something for it…just don’T know the best design. What have you guys done for corner mounts?

I know this is a long shot given I haven't found any examples out there on Youtube or anywhere else on the web, but I figured I asked here anyway. So I'm in the beginning staging of building out a NAS now that I have my home network setup and functional. Based on all the info I've read over the past month or so, it looks like I'll be going w/ a Synology 4-bay +2 (NvME) model.
That being said, the box alone is just under $700 so I'm wanting to cut costs as much as possible, especially while I'm 'learning the ropes of NASs' so to speak. That being said, is there any way to break open a WD HDD and use that spinning drive in one of the bays of the Synology drive or no? If not, would you guys recommend HDD or SSDs for a NAS. I've watched quite a few videos on this question and the toss up seems to be 50/50 on favor of both, depending on your application. For a casual home user like myself, I think I'd be ok and no be sacrificing too much by using the cheaper HDDs but...convince me I need to go w/ the $100/TB NvME drives instead....

I have a Verizon Internet Gateway (WIFI 6 Certified whatever that means) and on the phone app, it says Double Load. I also have terrible stuttering when streaming and gaming on my PC that’s hooked up via ethernet.

I don’t know where to start. What is Double Load? Is this related to the stuttering/lagging?

Looking at swapping to Fidium and wondering how the coverage is. I see they include "top-rated WiFi 6 gateway and extenders (if needed)". Will need to see if that adds to the price for rental or should I buy my own?

If I were to buy my own would really appreciate any recommendations. 2300sq feet. 2 story no basement. Add more coverage possibly to cover the garage as well.

I currently live in a shared house and in my room the wifi doesn’t work. I also barely get a 4g signal unless I hold my phone almost out the window (usually have 5g when I am outside) so I believe it’s due to something in the walls blocking the wifi and signal, which makes it even more important that the wifi works. I am trying to get my landlord to sort something out but from what I’ve read a “booster” may not work either. There is currently one outside my room and it doesn’t help. So, would I need an access point which is connected via an ethernet cable? I have an ethernet port in my wall and I assume this goes straight to the router, so would I just plug it into that and then have good wifi in my room?

Apologies, I have next to no technical knowledge and google is just confusing me more! I just need to know what to ask my landlord for and seem like I know what I’m talking about so I really hope someone can help.