The real header is just shy of 3" from the vertical wood that holds the garage door rails. I cannot fit two 2x in the space but slide a 2x6 in there for now. This 2x6 rests in the top of CMU walls.

I was going to attach it to the wood holding the garage door tracks and then attach a 2x4 from below through the plywood soffit. This 2x4 will cover the gap and allow for weather stripping.

But now I'm wondering if I push this 2x6 up against the backside of the header instead. It is too narrow to fit another 2x and doubt I could maneuver another in anyhow.

I could still attach to the existing header. The 2x to fill the gap would need to be a 2x6 to cover the distance which is bigger than I really need.

What would you do?

Oh and ignore the scrap wood. I just put that there as safeguard from the 2x6 falling forward since it's not fashioned.

Building a shed/cabin going to be post style with steel side 12x16 10ft wall post will be on piers I am looking for help with the floor don’t want a slab i am planning to run joist so it will be elevated and able to insulate

should 2x10 on 12 center be plenty with 3/4supfloor

Hey guys. So I'm new here but wanted to get the opinion of people with more experience. So my gf's boss found out that I do little carpentry things here and there, mostly my own stuff and asked me to do some stuff for him. I'm using my tools/labor but his wood/paint. I'm just cutting, fitting, and painting some shelves for his shop. Nothing major. 1 foot wide by 27 long. 5 of them so far. Hes happy with my work, although I'm no expert, and wants to pay me. I hadn't considered the conversation of pay when we started as he's a nice guy, pays my gf well, and seems to be a solid character. Now that the conversation is on the table I'm not sure what would be a fair price as he asked how much I wanted. What would yall charge for a small task like that with say 6-7/10 on quality? It may be better quality than that but I don't think it's THAT great. He loves it though so who knows.

Seeking advice… Door has been sticking for better part of year through weather changes. Now very tight on latch side in two spots. I tried putting construction screws there but did not suck in the frame. Also larger gap on top hinge.

Door was prehung and installed in 2019. Spray foam behind trim (small house and was used to help noise transfer). So might now be limiting the ability to adjust frame.

Anyone know if festool do a cross cut rail for this model?

Have this large hole in the corner of my door. Our family is the landlord and doesn’t want to replace to door but said we can patch it. How would I go about patching something like this?

So, I've never had to lay subfloor when the floor joists are running multiple directions like this. Carpenter for 15yrs but mostly did new construction.

Should I lay my sheeting in 2 different directions like in my drawing or just start at the far end and run them left to right all the way to the other end of the room? If I lay it like in the drawing, is there a potential for trouble with having a solid seem around that area instead of having my seems staggered like they would normally be?

If I do 1 direction the whole way I'll be adding a lot of blocking between the floor joists in the bottom left area since the sheeting will end up landing between 2 joists instead of ending on a joist.

Left to right the room is about 25' wide and 30' long. Using 3/4 t&g and will be installing floating hardwood floor over the top with 3/4" cali bamboo flooring. The cali bamboo was some SPENDY stuff. If I was just carpeting I wouldn't even think twice and just sheet the whole thing left to right.

The red outline section around the bottom left is the load bearing wall on the 1st floor and red line to the right is a doubled up joist acting as a beam. The beam is only supported at the ends where it rests on the top plate. I just mention it in case i should be considering that as a likely place for movement since it's also holding joists.

Appreciate the help.

Wanting to install new iron balusters but the stair treads are drilled clean through?

Hey all. As the title mentions I am looking to install new iron balusters while we are redoing our staircase. Previous to this I had the standard square based balusters with the nipple. This of course was not a problem for how they built it in 1989.

After demo I noticed this and am wondering how I could possibly put a non square base baluster in these holes. Was thinking of wood gluing in oak plugs and using the little metal square feet you can buy to help cover the hole. But before I do I figured I’d ask some folks that have done this before.

Pictures of the project below and my challenge.

https://imgur.com/a/lvSAYVE

Wife wants a closet similar to the picture attached. Anyone have any visuals of what the frame/hinges would look like? Once I see it, I can usually handle the workload.

Ok, long story short, I thought I'd be able to fix my wife's trainwreck curtain hanging ordeal that has repeatedly fallen (after she insists she needs no help). I keep telling her to throw the damn drywall anchors out and hit a stud already. Low and behold, 7 pilot holes and 0 studs later, I'm swallowing my pride and asking for your help.

I framed for a couple years 20 years ago, but I've forgotten quite a bit. The way I recall being taught was that you have a header sitting on your jack studs or trimmers. Outside of those were your king studs. That said, on either side of any window was 3.5" of wood framing minimum. Obviously a king stud runs from top plate to bottom plate with the header in between the two above the window, right?

So why can't I find either? The 2 rows of small holes are my pilot holes. Each one of them was positive on the (Harbor Freight) stud finder. Each of them hit insulation. Where are the bones?!

8" torpedo level for scale. House is a 2003 track home that was probably never inspected due to location and short handed building department during that boom.

We are wanting to finish our basement and I'm having trouble finding people who I trust to do the work. I've gotten bids from 4 different contractors. And I was in process of hiring one of them when I got the feeling he wasn't going to do a good job. (He hadn't planned anything out- no plans for waterproofing, no idea what kind of insulation, no plans for HVAC - etc.)

So how would you experienced carpenters find someone to do work for you? What things would you look for to ensure that they really knew what they were doing?

I've been doing trim for about a decade, but mostly production type/spec stuff. I'm currently on a large custom. I'm struggling with using flex molding to trim arches. How do you guys typically approach arched cased openings?

In the last year I switched from a full time residential framing carpenter to a timberframer. I’ve been noticing that having spent so much time perfecting my fine joinery skills, I feel like I’ve lost my touch while on site doing things I used to excel at. (Floor framing, roof framing, decks, etc). Should I practice these skills, or challenge my knowledge on my own time, or am I just lacking confidence due to the job change? I’ve been a carpenter for 8 years, red seal for 1 year. (Canadian)

Hi All

Want to make a shelving unit. But need some cheaper ones of these. Any ideas?? Many thanks

So would liquid nail work or should I use wood glue for gluing 2 3/4 plywood together? This is going to be my desk