Hi folks.

Basically the post title…I’m trying to apply quarter round around a corner, then up and over the tile threshold in the kitchen.

I was planning on 45ing up and over it (see picture), but since the tile threshold is sharper than 45 (maybe like 60 degrees and beyond the angle of my chop saw…), there’s a tiny little gap in between.

Should I:

A. carefully fill this little space in with caulk? B. Stop being lazy and take hours to match the angles with my coping saw? Lol. C. Just terminate the quarter round on the outside walls and don’t even bother wrapping it around this tricky kitchen entrance. D. Something else i didn’t think of?

I am leaning towards option A bc it’s faster, and will look square. Staying flush to the sharp angle will just result in a crooked looking piece going across my entrance - right?

Thanks!

How do i become one? What is the best level to take? If so does it matter what level I take? What's the pay like? Is it an enjoyable job over other trades such as a plumber or electrician the typical money ones?

Thanks

I need todo a lot of sanding in our house, around 1800 sqf of wood panel / shiplap that was painted poorly. House is finished, we’re living there, so I want to minimize dust and disruption for a family of 4. Most of this is in a vaulted ceiling, I’ll be installing faux beams this summer so I want to do this at the same time as I’ll have scaffolding up.

I have a bunch of other projects as well, plus a sized down wood shop in my garage and full scale one in our company shop, so it will get used.

If money was no option… what are we buying?i

Need help / opinion on my workbench and how to mount it to wall that are made out of hollow cinder block to stop it from moving around while I'm working

Thinking of putting in a built-in bookcase here. What do I do with the trim on the left side? Cut it flush with the vertical wall (I.e. perpendicular to the ceiling?)

Alternatively I could only build the built in up to the bottom of the trim and leave the trim intact but seems weird to have the gap.

I’m trying to zero in a new miter saw and am having trouble with the bevel. It’s a metabo saw, so not high end but generally decent quality.

You can see in the picture (pencil line is square) that the bevel is straight when the miter is set at 0*, but when the miter is set to 45* the bevel goes out of wack.

The base is level. The fence is level. There’s no wobble in the blade and the blade is plumb. I’ve run out of ideas on what to check or adjust. Any ideas would be appreciated.

TYIA

A carpenter by trade . At a newely renovated motel 6 . Shall we say the cart before the horse .

I'm working with a client who wants to convert a metal frame, colourbond shed/ex workshop into a livable, rentable space (granny flat as they are called here in Aus). She asked what the best insulation would be for...

1. Weather protection against extreme heat and Melbourne level cold.
2. Noise reduction for the future tenants so it doesn't sound like a metal shed when it rains
3. Cost effective (as usual)
4. Vapour barrier (if that's actually necessar for a building like this with the intended use)

I have built similar structures in the past but they were all used for workshops and car spaces so I'm unfamiliar with the best approach seeing as this is being converted to be a living space.

I have looked into Earthwool space blanket and thought that might be a good approach but Im also wondering if some kind of taped sarking would be good either along with the earth wool or would that be sufficient enough on its own (probably not that great for the rain on metal noise factor)

What do you all think is my best approach? Any advise is appreciated, thank you

I have seen this roof on a couple houses but can't seem to find a name for it anywhere online. I've spent a while trying to search for it on Google

I’m moving from northern bc to salmon arm this summer and wondering when a good time is to start applying for jobs? 2 months in advance? Thanks for anyone’s input

So I have a 800lbs plate I need to install, I’ve tried a few methods to get it vertical, jacks, beam lifts. Has anyone ever had to do something like this? If you have what did you do?

Gday guys, short and sweet I’m 22. I’m trialling at a company near me next week, for the whole week. I’ve been told that coz I’ll be mature age, I have to be double as good, if not better for them to consider putting me on as an apprentice over the juniors who are also trialling at different times. Is there anything I can do (besides work hard, I already know I’ll have to do that) that will give me a bit of an edge over the comp? Any little tips and tricks that not many people would think of that would give me a fighting chance? Thanks

Can't place it

Anybody find a 16” replacement handle for the 14 oz. Stiletto? The one that Stiletto actually sells is thin and weird. I know they sell an 18”.

I was thinking on doing a 2 part door closes on the bottom then folds up to fit the top part. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Wow, there was a lot of old nails and screws in there. Need to clean em out more often.

I'm framing a basement wall in Missouri. My foundation has an exterior waterproof membrane with a lifetime polycoat warranty, as well as a perimeter drain tile with sump pump.

The wall I'm looking to build is not load bearing and it runs parallel to the joists. It will be 16 feet long, and attach to additional walls running perpendicular to it on either side. The nearest joist to the foundation wall is ~9" away, so I don't have anything to attach my top plate of my wall to. I'm trying to figure out what best practice is here, and what my options are. As far as I can tell, here's what I'm looking at but I'm open to different ideas or any feedback if my ideas don't make sense.

Option A) Move the wall ~9" and put it directly under the joist. This would leave a pretty big gap between the wall and the foundation though, which is probably not what I'm going for.

Option B) Attach the wall to the foundation. Everything I've read says I should leave a small gap between the wall and the foundation though, so I'm assuming i wouldn't attach the entire wall (studs / top / bottom) to the foundation, but maybe just attach part of it somehow? I'm a little fuzzy on how this could be executed well, but I can imagine using a pressure treated 2x4 "rail" and attaching the wall to that.

Option C) Add blocking between the joist and the foundation wall to attach the top plate to. Only problem here is I'd either have to be dropping blocking under the joists which would mess with my ceiling elevation or I'd have to somehow attach a block between the joist and the exterior, which seems to just be a bunch of foam spray so there's probably nothing good to attach the second end to.

I'd love any input anybody might have here, and appreciate your time reading through this and helping me out. If I'm wildly off-base about something, please let me know. I won't be offended, I'm a total novice here but I want to learn.

Hi all,

I am building a two-tier bar in my basement and am trying to figure out the best way to approach the backer and end panel. I have it rough framed and would like to cover the back with 1/2" or 3/4" paintable plywood and then add a stile and rail frame with several vertical pieces. I think the shaker-style with flat stock would be simple, but I can't seem to find out if there are ways to do stile and rail with a flat back, not a raised panel that floats in the middle. I wanted to minimize any "hollowness" that might be present with a floating panel if it's being kicked under the bar. I'm also debating if I should miter the corners of the stiles where I continue this pattern into the sides of the bar that protrude past the back.

I've attached pictures of the look I'm trying to achieve and my actual project, along with the cabinet style that I'd like to get close to, but it doesn't have to be perfect.

I've seen two ways so far:
- Create a frame of flat 1x material and rabbet a groove in the back to recess 1/4 plywood.
- Use flat 1x material to create boxes to nail to the plywood, then add some type of trim into the frames, similar to wainscoting.

I'm pretty handy and have most of the tools, but looking for a few pointers to get started in the right direction. Thanks!

Similar look to what I'm trying to achieve

Framed bar progress so far

Diagram of what I think I'm trying to do

Cabinet door and drawer style that I'd like to get close to

Last night 2 am I was woken up by some rando kicking down my door. Luckily homeboy worn himself out. Didn't succeed. When I installed my front door a few years back I fastened a 2x3x3/16" angle iron by the latch. Fastened it with 3" Simpson screws to the king/jack studs. Consider myself very fortunate. A $20 piece of steel saved my ass.

Hello community. I do a lot of remodeling but not a lot of custom cabinets. Client asked me to build drawers that would fit inside a kitchen base cabinet. Plywood drawers soft close slides I’m keen but not sure how to charge. Any strong thoughts ?