/r/BMW
This sub-reddit is dedicated to everything related to BMW vehicles, tuning, racing, and more. This sub has no official connection to the Discord server, nor does this sub have any official endorsement or official relationship with BMW themselves.
This sub-reddit is dedicated to everything related to BMW vehicles, tuning, racing, and more. This sub has no official connection to the Discord server, nor does this sub have any official endorsement or official relationship with BMW themselves.
This sub is RES Night Mode Compatible
Pictures and videos taken while you are driving are strongly discouraged.
You're welcome to post anything you want within our rules. Some days are dedicated to certain themes, see below. When posting an submission for a theme day, please tag the submission with the appropriate link flair. See how to here.
Day | Theme |
---|---|
Summer wheel Sunday | share photos of your summer setup and drives |
///Monday | share BMW M cars (see Wednesday for M-Sport) |
Twosday | 2 series |
Wannabe Wednesday | dedicated to non M models |
Thirsty Thursday | gas pump photos, track days, or any 8+ cylinder model |
Fast Friday | modified cars, track days |
Stance Saturday | share suspension and wheel setup, good OEM stance is still a stance |
Mike Miller's Lifetime Maintenance guide
BMW Transmission and Differential Oil Information
Forums:
Part Number Searches:
Part Number Price Comparison Tool:
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Used Parts:
DIY Guides:
Need technical help with your car? Check out r/BMWTech
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/r/BMW
If I replace the tires on my car due to normal wear and tear, does that void the tire & wheel protection that I bough(5yrs or 60k miles - which is the same time length as the cars warranty) or does the protection move over to my new tires?
Saw this car on Facebook marketplace. It’s only a few miles from my house
Hello everyone. I’ve been having what I assumed were boost leak issue on my 2017 M240i F22. (Engine was losing power and boost pressure drops under hard throttle)
Today I tested it with a smoke machine and there seems to be a major leak at the base of what looks to be a vacuum line coming from the intake pipe to the valve cover.
I’m not sure what exactly this hose is for or what it’s called. If anyone knows, that would be great. Thank you in advance 🙏
A couple of weeks back I got my car checked from a mechanic and he saw some metal shards in the oil filter. He basically said car is done for.
Went to another mechanic, he changed the oil from 0-40 to 5-40 and said some stuff in the filter is normal and I shouldn’t be worried.
Really want to keep this car. Lately I have felt that idling has become rougher and car is slightly louder too.
What should be my next steps? How can I save this motor if anything is wrong.
Timing belt chain was replaced at 100K KMS. Oil changes at 6-7k. Video attached if the engine sound tells anything.
i plan on buying a 3 series and rebuilding the engine so i know it will be running good what should i do first
Hi, so i picked up a 08 535XI e61 176,000km, from a whole sale dealer, (i know) trailed the car back home, got the air suspension working, changed the oil, i knew it had a 2AA1 DTC for exhaust cam postion sensor circuit, as i scanned it at the dealer, when i picked it up the code was not current anymore and moved to history.
drove 60km, no CEL left the car idling in the drive way when i got home from work, and came out to CEL, scanned it and it was a 2AA1, shut the car off started it the next morning, 2AA1 moved to history and no more CEL, drives great makes boost drove 90-120km and CEL again when i turned the car on, found a oil change sticker for 2020 after i changed the oil, im wondering if i have a plugged oil screen maybe? as if the car sits it goes to history and i can drive fine for 60-120k before it returns, any thoughts?
gonna start by cleaning the vanos screens on the right of the head, and inspecting the vanos solenoid, also going to change the oil again after i clean the screens tommorrow. also will test the exhaust cam position sensor with a o-scope if the code is being set when im at work.
hellooo
how reliable is the f90 debating on getting 2k21 but am worried about maintenance costs, heard horror stories yet also see some great deals window shopping
ex: 55k, 30k miles 3 owners
Hey guys I have a 2017 bmw F87 m2 manual. It has 55000, kms now. For the last 3 years, since I got it it shuddered terribly when pulling away in first. There is severe vibration/shuddering pulling away in first on hill. Worse with passengers. 12 months ago I took it to a mechanics who obviously suspected clutch for flywheel issue and replaced both. Issues continues. I've had engine mounts and transmissions mounts inspected and apparently they're not that bad. I'm having transmission mounts replaced anyway just in case. Any ideas what it might be, should transmission joint replacement not fix it. I have to say googling symptoms of transmission, engine and diff mount failure symptoms seem inconsistent and it is low kms.. Googling indicates if it was engine mounts that would be making noise at other points, not simply pulling away in first. It doesn't make noise accelerating or slowing mid gear. Only when pulling away from a stop in first.
Hello all, I have always wanted a BMW, but I have only heard bad things. I don't know if I have ever once heard something good about them, but it is very hard for me to believe that every single one is bad.
I am looking for one in the price range of around 10-15k. I have always heard that maintenance and repairs are very expensive, but is that actually true? With the price range that I have, should I even consider getting one right now, or is it best to wait until I can afford a better one?
I don't know anything about BMW's so I would really like some advice on what I should look into, or avoid completely. I want to learn more about them because I think they are really cool cars, but I'm not in a position where I can afford expensive maintenance all the time, however, I do expect cost with normal maintenance.
Thank you in advance to anyone who responds.
Has anyone ran into this issue? I have verified I have 4 psi on the oil pressure testing where the oil pressure sensor goes, checked the 6 check valves in the cylinder heads, they seem to be okay, i even blew compressed air thru the oil pressure sensor port with the check valves out and the engine does sound better, but the oil pressure light is on the dash, I’ve put 2 engines in this thing, and I have the same problem, I even swapped out the IVM module that tells the ecm when the oil pressure is low, with no avail, on the first engine I had replaced the oil pump and the light still came on, any input would be great! I wanna get back into her, she’s been inop since may, 21,2024
I’ve been searching for help on this, but almost all answers are on a mileage basis. Since buying my 2019 330i xDrive 3 years ago I’ve put on 17k miles (bought it with 4k miles), with the only maintenance being oil changes and filters.
What maintenance should I be looking to do on it soon since it has hit the 5-yr mark but hasn’t quite hit any mileage thresholds?
Halloween wrapped up in the US. Had my F48 done up as the “Ectomobile”. I think next year I need a roof rack…
Hello everyone! I got my driver's license a couple months ago and recently bought this car which i thought would be a decent car for a beginner. Turns out it needs some hefty investments and for the price of 3700€ i initially paid for the car and 700€ for the delivery, i am aware i got scammed, there is no doubt about it. For about 2 months i've been trying to deal with the oil leaks it's been having, replaced rocker cover and gasket, replaced the vacuum pump seals and the coolant stopper flange. The car is still leaking oil from the exhaust manifold, the mechanic replaced whatever seals were there aswell and put some Loctite on the screws so it doesn't leak through the screw channel. After all of this, he said i need to rebuild the engine and replace piston rings, valve stem seals, probably the seal guides too or it will wear them out again, and all the other miscellanious replacements and work needed. He said no oil should be leaking into the exhaust manifold and i could drive it like this, with high oil consumption, but for prolonged periods it will destroy the catalytic converter. This will cost around 1300-2000€, depending what else he finds after he takes the engine apart.
I am willing to do the repair even tho at one point i was almost ready to scrap the car.
The mechanic recommended that i use 10w60 oil after rebuilding the engine, but the manufacturer recommends 5w30 or 5w40.
Guys, please help me with advice whether i should go with 10w60 or not, i do not want to end up with a dead engine after spending this much to rebuild it!
Thanks a ton in advance and i highly appreciate any advice!
Hey everyone,
While in a hurry, I have rushed parking and hit the back of my car with a concrete block just behind. There’s a pic of the damage in the heading.
Is it possible to fix this with a pen ? Or do I have to go to the mechanic? If so, how much do you think it would cost me knowing this is a X1 2012 and that I’m in Canada ?
Thanks !
Hi,
Wondering if anyone has any experience or knowledge about the real world implications of utilizing a JB4 on a B58.
I bought a CPO 21 M340i with 35k miles so well within my warranty period, I also have a JB4 that I haven’t put on yet. I was thinking of waiting for the warranty to expire, but I’ve started to think. Is there any actual risk with using a JB4?
BMW dealership has MSRP at $56,670. What would you negotiate? Would love some help before my meeting. It there a percentage I should request off? Just want to make sure I don’t go crazy . This is my first car!
Pretty heavy mileage over about a 10 day span. 10 charges at about $1.70 a charge (I have pretty favorable electricity costs at $.24/kWh and a solar panel that reduces that by probably about 20%). Equivalent of about 39 mpg if total fuel cost is converted into local price of gas. Of course this will vary depending on your local electricity and gas prices.
Easily exceed the advertised range (23 miles) every day. If I’m super efficient I can get closer to 27-28, if it’s all highway and I’m just cruising can do probably low 30’s.
This was mostly around town driving, too. I use this car for gig work. Also has the insane 150k TZEV warranty, and got it for $21k after the tax credit. CPO 1 owner 45k miles. Absolutely love this thing. Phenomenal balance of practicality, comfort and fun.
Hi Guys! I am a new driver getting my license soon and I really want to buy a 3-series whether it’s E46, E90/92, F-gen, etc.
I want it to be manageably reliable and under 150,000 miles. My budget is $4000 and under for cash purchase (paid off) clean title.
I am also fine with 4 and 5 series if you think that will be better for me, but primarily 3. If you guys have any specific cars you think I should target or sites I should be looking at, please let me know. I’m located in the DMV.