Any tips or tricks on how to better paint this type of V fin on armor?

https://preview.redd.it/qrl6t1n1j6yd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9a82dc0bebdd446900a7f2ae71d860ea9084efca

Tried several masking methods but I can’t get crisp color separation.

Using Gaia Premium Red and Gaia yellow orange.

https://preview.redd.it/qrl6t1n1j6yd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9a82dc0bebdd446900a7f2ae71d860ea9084efca

https://preview.redd.it/04faqg33j6yd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8c42302d7bcee9e3001570c6e7b1bdf765c6111

I'm currently working on a GP04 Gerbera custom, it uses the 1/100 full mechanics poly caps. It's lower waist section (specifically the ab crunch) isn't strong enough to hold the backpack and wings at a high angle. I've completely cemented the part together though, so I can't just add some glue to the slot for the polycap, thus my dilemma. It would be a really cool pose if it could hold it so I'm really looking for solutions. So far I've thought about possibly taking a syringe and injecting super glue into the hole to tighten it's grip on the polycap but I'm nervous that I'll ruin the kit in some way. Advice or possible solutions would be very appreciated.

I don't have an airbrush setup so I have to paint by hand. I use a mix of Vallejo Model Color and Game Color paints. I want to custom paint a Zaku in Johnny Ridden colors, but the paints I have are all matte or semigloss. Vallejo makes a glossy black, but I haven't yet found a glossy red. My question is: can I buy a bottle of Vallejo gloss and mix it in with the matte black or whichever finish red I find? If so, what ratio should I use? I tend to measure in drops (dark gundam blue is x drops Prussian Blue, y drops black, z drops purple, etc). Is there a specific thinner I should use when mixing in the gloss? 91% IPA? Water? Vallejo acrylic thinner or airbrush thinner?

Up to now, I've just been topcoating the painted pieces with Tamiya semi gloss, but I want to step it up with this one and use it as a learning experience before tackling my RG Sazabi (red metal flake, decals, high gloss, the works. I want it to look like a sports car).

The Zaku I'm using is already "primed." It's an HGUC MS-06 Zaku 2 that I painted over with a combo of scarlet and metallic red to cover that salmon pink Char was so fond of.

Took way longer then expected, thought it'll just be 3 hours, turned to be the entire day

I am working on airbrushing my first kit and I want to do some limited preshading. I have already primed some of it in Mr. Surfacer grey. I was wondering if for next time it would be more efficient to use Mr. Surfacer black as a preshade instead of a black laquer over grey primer. Is this a good idea?

Ahoy,

First things first, this is my first post in this forum so please be patient tolerant.

Also, what i am working with has nothing to do with the kind of models usually discussed in this forum. Nevertheless, I am quite confident that one of you will know the answers to my question.

I am currently in the process of restoring >50 year old anatomical models, from legs that show the different nerve regions to lungs and all kind of other organs. The models are fiberglass that was painted with, mystery paint. To color match the myriad tiny chips and broken off bits I am mixing small quantities of tiny 14ml enamel pots, mostly the ones from Humbrol, and dilute them with mineral turps before applying the color either with a brush, or if bigger areas are to be covered with an air-brush. So far so good, I am quite happy with how this turns out. Unfortunately, I am really struggling to apply a clear coat over this. I have tried laquer (old nitrocellulose based stuff) that i thinned with GP 142 thinner -> instant wrinkles and flakes. Ok, that one was doomed to begin with since laquer over enaml is always problematic. In parallel I tried a can of mystery clear enamel from a local paintshop (bought by someone else decades ago), which I thinned with mineral turps -> This did not harm the enamel paint underneath but the topcoat while feeling not one bit tacky is sort of gummy/soft. Fed up with trying to use up old cans I tried a brand new Rust-Oleum satin finish enamel rattle-can -> and once more I got wrinkles and flakes. The enamel paint which according to the tiny pots should allow for painting over after 6 hours had been drying for about 24h by that point. I also feel like applying infinitely thin layers of the rust-oleum stuff might work, but that is just too risky....

What should I try next? Do you guys think water-based enamel might be the answer?

The goal is a satin or mat clear finish that is as hard and hard-wearing as possible.

I should say that I am working in a vented spray booth, so solvent smell is the one thing i really do not care much about.

Thank you so much for your help!!!!

T