I've spent the entire weekend sending messages, only a single one out of the 12 or 13 even responded. That one that did looks real real shady. All others ghosted me, even when the car was very recently posted. Is this a new scam I haven't heard about? What information would they even be stealing if they don't respond in the first place?

1999 Mazda Miata MX5

244k on the BODY

60k on the New 2L input in last weekend Bought off one of my soldiers because he was gonna let it rot away

7800 obo Willing to deliver for a fee as well. Have a personal tower with flatbread.

I'm helping a friend buy a used car in Colorado. He hasn't owned a car in about 8 years, and he defaulted on his loan back then, and never paid off the car insurance he owed at that time (Progressive). He now is in a position to buy a vehicle in cash, but I'm just wondering if there's any reason he might have issues getting insurance and getting it registered in his name due to his never paying Progressive in full 8 years ago. I want to help figure that out before he buys the car, so he doesn't get stuck with a car he can't register/insure for some reason. TIA!

On sale by a young rich kid a 2017 higher end Audi with "92k miles" on odometer, priced 35% less than the market value for the car with this mileage.

Upon running the VIN it came back that the last recorded mileage by NMVTIS was 250k mi in 2024, previous - 34k in 2019. Guy tells me that he had no idea, and that he bought it and drove it for only 10k mi, and that he was probably scammed by the previous owner.

250k miles for a 2017 car seems insane - 36k mi/yr, or 100 mi/day if driven DAILY.
What are the chances that there is a mistake in the records? How can I check or correct this? The car seems to be in a good shape. Either that or everything was restored to a very high standard, and the odometer was faked.

On photos it appears to be in near mint condition. Seats look almost brand new. Priced at 15k$.

If I want to sell a used Toyota Corolla CE, with 140,000 km, with an new battery, new muffler, and several other new parts, in good working condition with only a bit of rust, how much could I realistically expect? (in CAD)

I’m primarily looking at Facebook for used cars as I have to go an hour and a half away for a reliable dealership, I have a budget of 5k, I have no idea what I’m looking for so I figured I would see if any of you have ideas. I need to find a car that will last me at least 4 years with minimal repairs. I don’t care about what kind of car van truck or whatever as long as it’s reliable. Does anyone have any advice as far as what to look for, cars to stay away from, or if there’s a better outlet than Facebook? Thank you!

I believe older vehicles, specifically somewhere from 2016 and earlier are going to be SOUGHT AFTER and go up in price in the future.

This is why I’m keeping my 2014 Tacoma and will get the engine rebuilt if need be.

If you look at auto insurance prices for 2020 and up vehicles they are astronomical, but that doesn’t end there.

You want your headlights replaced? $1000+ because they’re LEDs.

You want your side mirrors replaced? $500+ because they’re motorized and some are heated.

Front grille? Sensored and expensive.

Radio? Steering wheel? Speakers? Seats? Anything interior wise? So much technology that I guarantee you it will be extremely expensive.

That means you will pay hefty auto insurance fees AND if you want to get a simple thing repaired it will be expensive.

Couple that with the fact that companies are charging you monthly fees for dumb stuff like heated seats or remote start.

I am POSITIVE that older vehicles with the sweet spot of 2013-2016 where they have a lot of good creature comforts, but still are simple vehicles to maintain with cheap repairs are gonna be sought after.

Mark my words and KEEP your vehicles.

Half of the population isn’t going to pay these outrageous fees to own a car. The other half will because there always will be people like that, but I’m telling you we are going to hit a wall and I think we’re already seeing that wall.

There are a lot of newer cars on the lot and I think it’s partly because of what I’m saying here.

But I don’t think people realize how lucky they are and how you’re literally sitting on gold with the vehicles you have. It doesn’t matter what make or model you have.

Obviously some cars are gonna be worth more than others and reliability plays a factor, but think about it.

When you have a vehicle that costs a lot to insure, parts are expensive because of the technology in it, and equipment standards are being monetize at a monthly rate….

People are going to choose to buy or keep their used vehicle and not have to deal with any of that.

I’m telling you! You have to keep your used vehicle! It will be worth money and maintain its value solely because it’s the cheaper alternative AND save you money in monthly fees, repair fees, etc.

What cars would you consider buying for under 5k in todays used car market?

https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/ccl/zl2Y0YqoYkiYT0_cZ_DVSfupv84apFXYviLPR438xKC8ZPmi0YajtBdP7NzWLRKvnQBHgQNywK9VAQwgRkE3AE6JKOEv0GvSkkIXUCp7

Should I pull the trigger on this Used 2022 Honda Civic Sport Touring | $26,291 | 26,539 mi? Is the carfax report good? Can I negotiate it down to 25k?

Thinking about pulling the trigger versus the Chevrolet Trax new being offered at $129/month same drive off and less miles per year. (10k/yr dodge v 7.5k Chevy)

What do you guys think?

Hi i’m kinda on the fence about 2 cars i’m looking at, I’m in uni looking for a fun daily that has a more than enough power and a good source of aftermarket parts and semi decent on gas, i will be tuning the car in the future. If i were to be dumb and live paycheque to paycheque then i would have done a rs3 vs m340i but insurance and gas hold me back lol. i do about 30-100kms a day depending on if i have to go to uni and work on the same day

Anyways, some pros i love about the audi is the nimble feeling of the car, since it’s a smaller lighter car it feels really nice and quick. Comes with 292 out the door and i’ve seen people get anywhere from 370-400whp w a stage 2 fbo. I like the look of the car especially after some tasteful mods on it. and Quattro is just way better for launching than the xdrive

The pros of the g20 are how the car looks, i love the headlights, the shape of the car, the interior is definitely better then the 8v, even tho its awd its rear bias so you can swing the car a bit. it comes with 252hp out the door.

Cons of the audi: Front wheel bias, i’m coming from a mk6 jetta fwd, Nothing more i wanna do than launch a car from a dig but i would also love to just swing the tail of the car. Also how little the back seats are, i drive alone 90% of the time but some days i do go out w friends so that may be an issue. Interior i wouldn’t say i hate it because i do like how minimal it is BUT i wouldn’t say i love it.

Cons g20: even though i know you can get a lot of power out of the b46/48 but you can only get out 300ish w a stage 2 on 93. that’s pretty much all i could think of, i would honestly buy the 330 if i could squeeze a little more power out of it.

Other cars: I was looking at the b8.5 s4 and then f30 340i, insurance companies quoted me way too much a month to have those things worth it to me, im 21, never been pulled over, g license have had my own car for 4 years but they still charge an arm and a leg LOL. And the f30 is just way too overpriced in my area. even though i would love to get one of those cars

i appreciate any suggestions about the two cars, or if there’s other ones i wouldnt mind hearing them out too, thanks.

Kbb is showing 4-6k for the mileage, I’m wondering if there’s something with the make/model for that low of a price. Haven’t been able to see/test drive yet.

I currently drive a 2008 4Runner with 270K miles. I'm concerned that after Trump imposes his tariffs, the price of cars is going to go up (and used cars as well due to supply/demand). I'm confident--but not confident enough--that my 4Runner would get me through the next 4 years, so I'm doing research on replacing it.

I have been a Toyota girly for a long while now, but there are some used "luxury cars" that are popping up within my price range as well. However, I want to be mindful of upkeep/repair costs for the new-to-me vehicle. Are repairs on an Audi or Volvo significantly more expensive than a Honda or Toyota?

Here are some examples of the cars I have saved on CarGurus to give y'all an idea--I'd love to hear your recommendations on what to pick based on these options:

2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara JLX 4WD - 79K mi, $5K

2012 Audi Q5 2.0T quattro Premium Plus - 115K mi, $8K*

2011 BMW X3 xDrive28i AWD - 115K mi, $8K

2007 BMW X5 3.0si AWD - 65K mi, $9K

2007 Honda CR-V LX AWD - 102K mi, $9K*

2015 Volvo XC60 T6 Platinum AWD - 140K mi, $9.5K*

2012 Audi Q5 2.0T quattro Premium Plus AWD - 93K mi, $10K

2011 Honda CR-V SE AWD - 103K mi, $11K

I have starred my personal favorites. I'm also open to any other suggestions. My priorities are that it is at least mid-sized, gets around 20mpg, and has AWD or 4WD capabilities.

https://clutch.ca/?referral=QQL7P5DO

DM for name/e-mail if required! Will respond quick.

On the hunt for a used car and narrowed it down to these options. Both are going for about 15k CAD (10, 650 USD).

Both are from reputable dealerships and both have extensive service records so my main question is how Mazda now compares to Toyota. I've never driven Mazda but I'm told their reliability is now on par with Toyota.

I'm going to look at a 2022 Ram 2500 at AutoNation this week. The car fax is good and the truck is priced under market value. But its been on the lot for 80+ days. Any ideas why it would still be there? What am I missing that it has been on the lot so long? What should I check before I buy it?

Just bought used Honda civic 8g. And on the dash board there is permanent attachment that I do not know what it is used for I assume it could be for phone mount, dash cam or navigation but I can't find anything that has this mount on the internet.

Dash Mount https://imgur.com/gallery/WQ6q8MH

Any help will be much appreciated.

Hello there everyone I've been trying to sell my current BMW 1 Series F21 with 64400 miles on it, I'm struggling to find the perfect price to sell this car for. Although the car does need some work for example, new brake sensor, window regulator, egr valve clean, and the rest is some cosmetic damage like a scuffed bumper and alloys. Based on the car being MOT and serviced regularly and the low mileage. Also I'm from Scotland so any advise would help thanks.

I found this car that I really liked. It's my first car so this was reasonably priced at $3999 that's kind of in my budget and at 70 something miles. It's a 2013 Volkswagen Passat se and the car looks fine visually, just a few scratches bc it's been in two minor car accidents. Took it out for a drive and it's very smooth. Only problem is that it's been declared a total loss by the insurance company.

I wanted to think about it but he said he can't guarantee the car won't sell while I do so long story short I put down a deposit which would be okay if that's all I pay. I'm thinking of getting a mechanic to check the car. I ran a vincheck on it and it came back clean(?), cargurus says theft has been reported(?) it's just everything is saying something different and I'm very confused.

Around the beginning of September I bought a used 2007 Caddillac DTS from a local used car dealer for $7500. I absolutely fell in love with the car and took out a loan through my credit union for it. The woman at the credit union said they were charging more for the car then it should have been but I said I didn't mind since I traded my old car in to take $1,400 off. I didn't officially get the car until September 27th.

Before I even got the car there was an issue with the stereo where the previous owner jacked the AMP (?) up too high, so it was draining the battery. They also found something wrong with the breaks, which lead me to get it later than I expected and only a few days ago did I find out this caused an issue with my insurance. (A whole story I don't want to get into cause that was mainly the fault of my insurance company.)

Since then I had taken back two times. The first time because the gas peddle seemed to shake when I was on uneven road and the breaks would squeak when I lifted up on them.

Second time was because my tires were making a weird sound and it seemed like something weird was happening when I'd take my foot off the gas. I figured the tires just needed to be lubed but as it turned out they were dry rotted! They couldn't find anything weird with my transmission so they told me if it happened again I should take it to a place that works with transmissions as that's where the car would be sent to be worked on anyway.

When I mentioned this to my manager she asked one of our regulars if he could look my car over because the amount of issues were growing concerning.

He found:
- Service Parking Assist life on (side note: I was informed of this by the dealer and told to hit the check mark button to make it go away when the car turns on.)
- The motor was missing 2 mounting nuts
- Power steering rack bolt missing
- Transmission pan leak + possible rear main leak
- Right back window not working

I took the list back to the dealer and they fixed some of the things. The car is no longer under warranty since 30 days have passed but the dealer said he would finish fixing the car window since he knew about it before the end of the warranty.

Today I noticed the smell of burning oil and found my oil was low. My friend who was with me said it shouldn't have been empty if I just bought it a little over a month prior; the dealer should have made sure everything was topped off before handing it over. My boss and friend think I should fight to get my money back since there's so many things that have been wrong with the car. However, another regular that also works with cars says I should be fine since the dealer is fixing the issues.

My friend doubts they're actually fixing anything because the second time I went in to get my car the owner and an employee were drinking in the office so whose to say they aren't drinking on the job? I imagine they illegally inspected my car as well; I remember one time I was told my tires wouldn't pass inspection by a different mechanic so how did they miss the dry rotted ones?

What should I do? Was buying this car a mistake? I absolutely love this car and don't want to get rid of it so what are my options to ensure it's fine? I'm 24 and this is the first time I've bought a car from a dealership, my first and previous car I bought before this was from a family friend.

I also looked up the lemon law since everyone kept mentioning it but I don't think that this applies anymore since it's passed the 30 day warranty.

Please help me decide which one I should buy! I've broken down the ups and downs I could think of below. Let me know your thoughts/additions to my lists.

2015 Volkswagen Jetta, 68k miles, $7500
2011 Toyota Camry, 120k miles, $9000

Jetta pros:

• it's my FIL's, so trusted source.
• Low mileage.
• Cheaper option

Jetta cons:

• Not really sure. Maintenance might be more expensive

Camry pros:

• It's a Camry, and a great year too.
• Has backup camera and carplay (upgrades I would've done myself).
• Will probably last past 300k miles
• VIN was provided and the carfax check out
• Cheap parts, easy repairs

Camry cons:

• More expensive, but still within reason of KBB, especially with the upgrades I mentioned.
• Buying from unknown on FB marketplace
• Older and more mileage

single owner, just drove for commute and local it seems.

your thoughts on this?

We hadn't even gotten home from the dealership and the "check break system" alarm and light came on. Of course, because I got it after work, the dealership was closed already by that time and it was Friday. It's a 2012 Ford Escape Hybrid with 79k miles on it. The light/alarm has come on at least once everyone time I drive it and doesn't go away until I turn the car off and back on. I traded in my really nice car for it because we are in a bind financially. I did text my sales guy and let him know. It's not under warranty and I'm terrified I've just put myself in a deeper hole. Do they have any obligation to fix it?

UPDATE went to the store earlier and the alarm/light came on as I accelerated from a stop sign. Immediately heard a loud grinding and felt the car pulling. I had to accelerate against the pull in order to get myself pulled over. Turned the car off a few minutes then was ale to drive the 2 blocks home without issue. I was assuming it was a fairly benign mechanical issue since it felt fine while driving... Up until that happened :(

https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/1HGCV1F42JA251629

Hey everyone,

I recently purchased an extended warranty plan for my 2011 Lexus RX 350 (115,000 miles) for $6,227. The warranty is through Endurance, covering 48 months or 75,000 miles (whichever comes first) with a $100 deductible. It includes the following features:

Unlimited miles during the coverage period. Coverage for engine, transmission, drive axle, seals and gaskets (only with covered repairs), brakes, suspension, and electrical components. Excludes regular wear and tear items like tires, brake pads, and routine maintenance. I’ve seen mixed reviews about extended warranties in general, and I’m wondering if this is a fair price or if I should consider a different provider like CARCHEX, MaxCare, or others.

Have any of you had experience with Endurance or similar warranties for older cars? Is this price reasonable for the coverage I’m getting, or would you suggest exploring other options?

Thanks

If so what does that process look like and do I have to disclose this to the credit union?

I’m only doing this because BaT options are much better than the flipped cars in my area.

Recently upgraded to MY2024 so selling our beloved orange 2016 500e.

• Low mileage: 36,050 miles
• 12V battery replaced in 2022
• Two (2) new tires in the last year
• AC, heated seats, Navigation, parking sensors, Bluetooth, FM/Sirius
• Battery care: the car has typically been charged to no more than 80% for optimal EV battery health
• Charging: includes 110v charger and supports Level 2 (j1772) fast charging (up to 6.6kW); I also have a level 2 JuiceBox charger if that's of interest

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/d/san-francisco-2016-fiat-500e-ev-low/7800500966.html

I need a car bad (for work) and unfortunately cannot spend as much as I would’ve liked on a car. However I need one that is reliable to get me through 5 years of grad school and potentially then pass on to my younger siblings. Any suggestions on how far back I could go and how much mileage becomes too much? Also, I’d love to have a car I can put Apple CarPlay into, so any experience there too would be amazing. Realistically, how old of a car should i buy in 2024?

Local new car dealers have used 2022 Cadillac XT5's at $23-26,000 - I assume off lease.
They depreciate much quicker than the competition, but I believe any car is worth it if the price is right & low enough.
Is this worth it?