Last April I was declared disabled and received a $2,700 back check. I can still drive and I hadn't owned a car for many years but I ended up buying a horrible Mazda 6 that once I had a mechanic look at it I learned was complete trash. I was putting a few hundred dollars away and I got a second back paycheck of $2,700 in October. I was finding all of these Jukes available for four to five and a half thousand and I had a total of $5,000. Unfortunately before I could ever buy the car my house was burglarized and all of my money was stolen. That's a pretty crappy thing to do to a disabled guy who's only got a few years to live.That also means that I have to wait for my last $2,700 back paycheck in April and hope that this tore up Mazda can make it through which is most likely not going to happen but I can hope. But before I even get there I have a question or two. I saw somebody else bring this up but when I was shopping for cars I noticed that they were Nissan Altimas with pretty low mileage available over and over again in my geographic area. Somebody else brought this up here on Reddit and the first answer was that it was because the transmissions go out pretty early on those things and so people are getting rid of them after however many years. That really sucks because that's a chance for a poor person like myself to get into a good car but if the transmission is going to fail then there's no point at all. My question is whether or not this the case with all Nissan's and would a Nissan Juke also have the same type of problem? I really like the way those cars look and when they're clean inside I really like the design. I like boxy cars so sue me but anyhow I would be interested to find out if people know wether all of the Nissan line starts to breakdown because of transmission or any other significant problem? I would really be interested. Also if there's something else available for that same kind of price point but without any well-known problems I would be very interested in that information as well. Thank you in advance for your time.

My parents gifted me an older Civic which just got rear ended and totalled. State Farm is giving me 6500. What should I get?

I like sedans, don't need to be flashy or sporty. I just want a solid card to get me back and forth to college for the next few years and maybe into my mid-20s.

I just don't know if it's better to go newer with more miles, or sacrifice the year (go older) for fewer miles.... accidents? multiple owners?... also idk.

Any advice on models, years, etc would be helpful. I'm in Ohio, if that matters.

On the 19th, I bought a used car off marketplace, received title, receipts or records of car maintenance, etc. But the seller didn’t sign off on title. Didn’t realize until we got home and haven’t really been able to get in contact with the seller(didn’t get contact info. Rookie mistake)

He seemed pretty honest and story matches up with the condition of the car and receipts. I thought about just initialing his initials as they are on the title but reconsidered just in case it wouldn’t be acceptable at the dmv.

Should I just sign off myself(Again I know it would be unacceptable if the dmv knew and I don’t want to make the progress to register more of an headache)

I’d rather him sign it himself to save me the time but I’m not sure if I’ll be able to get in contact him again.

Hi all, I need some suggestions on how to deal with my commuter car.

The car is a 2001 Honda Civic. It is in a mixed condition. It is regularly maintained (new timing belt, new AC, relatively new brakes, etc.). And it has only 140k miles.

But it has some not crucial but inconvenient issues. There is some wiring issue so the back seat windows are stuck. The rear bumper has cracks. The exterior painting is peeling off.

So, it’s a car that looks bad but runs well. I feel that dealers would not care about it. But it would be a waste if I just dump it. It still has some value for those who just need a car to drive around… though I also can see nobody would want it because of those issues.

Suggestions? (I also don’t know how much I should ask for… I personally would be happy with a few hundred bucks.)

Employee was driving company vehicle on suspended license. Vehicle towed by one company to township owned impound(police of township were arresting force, obviously).

Sold 5 weeks later without notice. Truck still has payments due. Finance company not notified either. I received zero notification, positive.

Been playing phone tag with my lawyer. Yes, it was sitting awhile. Cash flow was bad.

In Ohio, thanks in advance.

I’m looking to buy a car and it all looks good the only part that’s bugging me is that the v5 said 0 previous owners but there’s been plenty of mileage put on the car? How is this possible? It’s a Vauxhall Corsa SE 2020.

Hey everyone, I’m planning to buy a 2017 Honda City (V) from a colleague, and I’d appreciate some advice on the right price. Here are the details:

• Model: Honda City 2017 (V) (Petrol-Manual)
• Mileage: 39,000 km
• Condition: Well-maintained family car
• Karnataka state registration

Recent Work: Tires recently changed, newly added android auto screen, overall condition is excellent

What do you think would be a fair price for this car? Would love to hear your thoughts!

hi!! im currently looking into a 2016 nissan maxima and have seen a lot of mixed reviews. a couple techs i know recommended to me that i avoid nissan all together as i've dealt with a lot of issues with my current 2012 vw cc and am really needing something reliable and lower maintenance. the maxima has approximately 111k miles and is selling for around 14k. it's one of the better cars on the lot in terms of condition so it was highly recommended to me. is it worth considering? ive been reading about the transmission and it appears it is better than in the altimas and sentras but its still something that is worrying me.

there is a 2017 maxima on the lot in comparable/nearly identical condition with 64k miles but it's priced a little under 16k. would this be a better investment due to that mileage?

overall very conflicted and need help

Considering 2 options (same price) for Ford Mustang ecoboost

2020 model with 37k miles, CPO at ford dealer

2023 model with 14k miles at a Benz dealer ( i would most likely get a PPI ) but bumper to bumper manufacturer warranty up to 36k miles

however they're the same price and model just different years, is it better to just get a CPO?

Evening - first time Jeep buyer here. We're looking for a 3rd vehicle for some light off-road camping. Mostly Southern CA BLM and Yellow Post sites. I'd like something reliable that can handle dirt roads, sand, and bumps. No rock crawling, but get me out of a deep rut if need be. I found a '98 ZJ with 130k miles for under $4k that is a one owner vehicle with all of the service done below.

Seems like a ton of service, don't know if that's great news because it's been thoroughly serviced or scary that so much has had to have been done. Also, some of the things shown having to have been replaced multiples times like the radiator.

I appreciate any advice at all.

Carfax single owner. Clean title. No accidents. All service done at the same shop in AZ. I left out all of the service checks and simple items and just listed below parts replaced or repaired.

- 80k miles:

• Power steering hose(s)/line(s) replaced
• Right axle replaced
• Serpentine belt replaced
• Idler pulley replaced
• Brake pads replaced

- 83k miles:

• Brake pads replaced (front and rear)
• Catalytic converter replaced

- 91k miles

• Water pump gasket replaced
• Water pump replaced
• Starter replaced
• Airbag computer/module reprogrammed

- 101k miles

• Radiator replaced
• Starter replaced
• Stabilizer bar bushings replaced
• Steering wheel centered
• A/C hose/line replaced
• Refrigerant added for leak check checked
• Track bar replaced

- 112k miles

• Lower radiator hose replaced
• Radiator replaced
• Crankshaft oil seal(s) replaced
• Oil pan gasket replaced
• Engine mount(s) replaced

- 114k miles

• Thermostat replaced
• Radiator cap replaced
• Radiator replaced

- 119k miles

• Brake master cylinder replaced/repaired
• Brake pads replaced
• Brake rotor(s) replaced
• Rear brake rotor(s) replaced
• Rear brake pads replaced
• Brake booster replaced/repaired
• Front brake pads replaced
• Front brake rotor(s) replaced

- 122k miles

• Crankshaft position sensor replaced
• Battery cable terminal end(s) replaced
• Idle control valve/motor replaced
• A/C compressor replaced

- 123k miles

• Serpentine belt replaced
• A/C compressor replaced
• A/C refrigerant recharged
• A/C system flushed
• A/C condenser replaced
• Tie rod end(s) replaced
• Track bar replaced

-125k miles

• MAP sensor replaced
• Crankshaft pulley/balancer replaced

Looking into a 2020 Tiguan. Seems like a steal with 58k miles. Read up on reliability concerns but it seems most of these reported issues stemmed from the 2009-2018 models. Did they iron out most issues in the newer year models? I’ve been fighting with a lemon and am skeptical I’ll end up with another. But it’s really hard to ignore the price point, but I’ve never had a VW.

As the title suggests, we just purchased a used vehicle from Kentucky. We were looking for a specific model, which is why we purchased the vehicle from a dealer out of state. I worked with the sales team and received photos as well as a clean AutoCheck report on the vehicle. After a few weeks of negotiation, we agreed on the price and I was assured it was a beautiful vehicle in great condition. It arrived today to my Texas home and there is clear bumper damage that looks like it was attempted to be painted over. To say I am disappointed is an understatement. Upon digging in, the transportation company’s one photo of the back shows the damage at the dealer prior to pickup vs. the photo I received from the dealer does not. So either the vehicle was damaged prior and they sent me a nice edited photo or they damaged it while we were negotiating and attempted to cover up without disclosing to us. We immediately contacted the dealership and my sales rep did nothing but pass it to his manager. Is there anything we can do? We still want the vehicle, but with the damage repaired.

I need to buy my kid a used car. budget is about 15-18k. would like that to be no more than 75k miles on odometer

my last Honda (bought used with only 19k miles) needed a new tran at 101k. A Nissan Rogue we had died at 86k. Also had a Toyota Venza that died at about 108k. and going further back we had another Honda (Odyssey) also need a tranny at 125k

therefore I am not brand loyal. they all seem to not be of as much quality as they used to be. we are not excessively rough on our cars but I must admit we also aren't doing all the MFG suggested maintenance things beyond oil. rotate tires and air filters. example the 30/45/60/75k Honda check ups. we don't do them all

but next time I do want to try to get a CPO or something that gives a little protection. but all of them I read about don't actually EXTEND anything. you just get a used car with what's left or the original protection. so it's like the best they offer is allowing you to KEEP what the original buyer got.

so do any makes have better CPO or extended protection than others? or should I just be looking at aftermarket warranties? thx

Hey everyone. I am wondering if it’s a stupid decision or reasonable to trade my 2020 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback with 60k miles for a Tacoma 4x4 with a couple thousand more miles? I live an outdoors lifestyle and the Civic is just not cutting it.

Is the reliability of both vehicles similar? Is this a dumb decision? Gas mileage is not a make or break for me.

Mercedes Benz 2021 e350. Any reviews ?

So This is my first time buying a car and it was listed at $24,499 as a CPO. When I spoke to the dealer and they prepared me an invoice. It was $31,000. He said there is a certification fee for $1900 and maintenance fee 300i/300s for $695.

What is happening with Nissan? Everyone is like crazy selling their Nissan cars and that too at really affordable price.. but seeing so many Nissan cars available all of a sudden feels kinda of fishy.. can someone shed light on something that I am missing?

Hello! New to Reddit and I’m desperately trying to find a car as I was rear ended on the highway and progressive has totaled it. I have a 570 credit score and $2,000 down. Any suggestions on something I may be able to get that would be reliable? I last got a 17 Chevy trax and it was terrible for needing repairs and I just could not get ahead, then this happened.

Like if I got a Ford still under warranty at a Toyota dealer

Advance Auto is closing down and has discounted most car products by 50 percent both in-store and online.

Title, does fidelity warrantee cover repairs for modified cars or do they void warrantee the same way that manufacturers do when they see modifications?

I am extremely broke and I know that I won't be able to afford a THING once taxes change in 2025. I need to be able to get to and from my job.

I WOULD LIKE IT TO HAVE A HEATER and I'm praying for under 150,000 miles. I know I likely won't find anything without rust but l'd like minimal rust underneath as possible. Looking HOPEFULLY for a Toyota or Honda as they last. I don't care if it was a salvage or if it's an ugly model or color I am months deep into this search.

I've tried getting loans via my bank, and auto finance but Sallie Mae (student loan) is ruining my credit and I need to make more to pay them off, and I need a car to get a better job because I live far from the city. Please help me dear god Imao

Edit: I am disabled and running out of options as saving money is difficult to do in this economy. If anyone has suggestions of a place to shop or is selling something let me know.

Thinking of trading in my v6 14 mustang base with 130k miles for a V8 14 premium with 110k miles, dealer price is 15,995 after they’re wanting to give me 5k for my mustang lowering the price to 10,995 before taxes and registration. Do you guys think it’s worth it?

I purchased a car about a year and a half ago from a used car dealership. I made the mistake of not checking the Kelly Bluebook Value and made an impulsive decision and said yes to a car that was priced double of what the car was worth. More so, I’ve had issues back to back starting a week after I got it. The dealership was kind enough to not charge me for a few repairs. I was upset that it continued to be one issue after the other and called lemon law but with the vehicle not being a 2016 or newer, they could not help. I still have this car a year and half later and it broke down on me again, come to find out I supposedly need my catalytic converters replaced again after just having them replaced shortly after I got it. At this point I really don’t want the car anymore but I still owe on it. The total amount of repairs I’ve had on that car has totaled a dollar amount almost equivalent to my remaining loan balance on the car. Any advice on what to do? I’m thinking of attempting to sell it after this last repair even though it’ll be a loss I still feel it’s better than waiting around for another major issue.

So this past year, I had to do a lot of work on my Volvo (135k miles) - new tires, new fuel pump, new brakes, blah blah. I think I should sell it before it gives me any more trouble but I literally just spent $1400 (within the last month on it) and CarMax gave me a $1700 value for it.

Is there a way to negotiate up if I can show the paperwork of all the work or will no one care? I am going to try at the dealer where I want to buy a new other car to get them to give me a higher price....

Any tips? I'm not experienced with car shopping... and hate haggling.

Very confuse with these 2 options. Budget is tight else have gone with new city. It's for family of 2. Daily ride of 30-40 km.

After having the same car (2009 Honda) for a little over 10 years I've decided to finally upgrade. I'm from North Texas and planning to pay in cash. I found a used 2023 Toyota Camry LE with 12,617 miles (this is inaccurate, I explain below) for $23,091 at a dealership. I've always bought cars from a private seller so this one is whole thing is a bit newer to me.

One thing to note is that after searching the VIN I found it listed on other sites with 19,617 miles and in the pictures of the Odometer I see it says 19,617. So it seems the dealership's website (and what the salesman told me when I called) is about 50% off on the mileage.

Looking at sites like carfax this seemed to be a great deal but I've always been told to negotiate, which I'm happy to do but with my lack of experience I'm not sure what a good offer would even be. I was thinking of opening with $23,000 OTD, but honestly no idea if that is asking too much or not enough or a good place, especially considering the mileage is off.

Would appreciate any thoughts on what a good starting offer would be and as part of the negotiating when should I bring up the fact that the mileage is off.

Was told in r/askcarsales that even before COVID dealers didn't negotiate on the price for used cars but have seen posts here that tell a completely different tale so would like to get some insight from you guys as well.

Thanks for any help you guys can offer, appreciate y'all!

Hi guys,

I'm I the market for a minivan, I really like the odyssey elite and right now I found 2 that I'm highly interested.

-first one 2018 odyssey elite with 98k miles @ $26k out the door

-second one 2018 odyssey elite 48k miles @ $32k out the door

Does the 50k miles justify the $6k price difference?

This will be my weekend family car and its daily use will be to pick up the kids from school just a couple miles away. it will rarely be driven, my current family car is a 2020 outback that I just put 33k miles over 4-5 years

I'm a college student looking for a midsize ish SUV for a first car and I've been eyeing this one 2011 3.6R Limited Subaru Outback with 114k miles on it. It has an automatic transmission not CVT and a pretty good maintenance record. It's going for about $9000, is this a reliable buy? If not are there any good alternatives?

Lmao it’s quite hilarious I went to go check out a 2009 Mazda but ended up looking at a 2010 Altima(both $4.1k). The sales lady and I both got confused and I was immediately like I’ll take it! While I was driving it I spoke to my step dad and he was he like “I know it looks appealing but please don’t do it! He started blurting out transmission acronyms “CVS? CCTV?” agh! Anyway he grew doubt in me so I called a mechanic and he too said “listen lady you’re going to pay me $205 to tell you that it’s not a good idea “ . Fine fine no Nissans!