Anyone has an stl for the orca v1 by JG mfg designs?

Keen to make some panels as mine are damaged and the modder abandoned boat.

Cheers

https://preview.redd.it/l52lkym04zzd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=374531838ed34793739b0bedcfe1ce1a08bafaba

Hello, recently broke battery contact on rebel box mods and need to replace. Looks like it's just soldered on.

Looking for parts and preferably ship from USA(or cheap). Listed on their site for $30 shipped.

is it ok if i use blade fuse for a unregulated mod, btw the battery I'll be using is p28a molicel and two 20A blade fuse.

I want to build a simple 18350 MTL pipe, button on the side of the bowl. What would be the simplest (safe) way of building this? Do I need any chips or boards? Or is it as simple as battery - button - connector/tank?

Can someone give me a quick checklist of all the parts i need to byuld a custom mod im looking for duel 18650 stuff im just not sure what i need to get

Why we are using a resistor on n-fet legs, and can i use a boost board to get constant opening voltage on mosfet gate. And how do you guys debounce a gate controlling button?

My main concern is that optimal voltage for gate opening starts approx at 5 volts, lower then that we would heat the mosfet. Also a false rapid signals from noisy input (button) would trigger multiple gate openings at lower voltage that leads to overheat.

And my goal to safely run 0.7 builds with minimum voltage drop.

Guys throw at me a mosfet mod guide please.
There was a document on building one, cant find it now maybe somebody have it laying around?

Hey y'all. I currently am working on an rpi pico based box mod, and have run into an issue regarding the voltage/current. Initially, my setup was a 3.7V battery connected to a 5v boost board, which is then connected to the raspberry pi pico (output 1), and also a potentiometer (output 2). The pico is then connected to a mosfet, which is connected between the ground of my 510 thread and output 2. Now, unfortunately I did not account for the fact that the potentiometer would limit both current AND voltage, and my pods which need ~1A, are unable to turn on unless the potentiometer is all the way "off". Because of this, I was wondering if there is any easy way to allow for variable voltage while maintaining a constant current. Thank you for your time.

I've been look for a battery tube compatible with both 18650 & 18350, like the pipeline box one, but seems like it is a custom part. So I plan to CNC the battery chamber directly to the housing, but I am not sure what material to use for the plastic(red) piece isolating the positive and negative side of the battery. The tube will be ss304, and maybe POM for the isolate part? And judging from all the pic, and 3D models I saw, I think press fit will do just fine?

Really appreciate your input on this.

Battery Tube V2 from ModMaker

First time builder here.

I am planning to build a small ass mod (something like a pipeline box style) with the DNA 80C, and want to use this 18350 battery tube. But I am not sure how to attach the battery tube to the housing? There should be 2 M1.6 screw hole but is there enough to hold it upside down(wire side down) ? and is that a good idea to leave the negative side exposed? or is there any alternative for using both 18650 and the 18350 ?

Hello! This is my first time assembling my own custom vaporizer, and I couldn't find a getting started guide. So, here's the sitch: My friend saw one of those vapes that let you play games on them, and then I was like, "Heh, it'd be funny if I installed a Raspberry Pi in a vape and ran Linux on one"

So, here we are. Now, all the raspberry pi stuff I can handle, so don't worry about it (although I'm open to suggestions!) What I need some help with is figuring out how to do the actual vape part. I'm designing my unit for 510 cartridges, and want it to have the same functions as a regular cart battery. IE: Pre-heat (double click) & Voltage adjustment (triple click). But I'm not experienced in how to control all that stuff. I assume maybe like a Teensy (hell, we could probably just run it through the Pi, it's there). I haven't yet decided on if I want the button circuitry to be handled by the Pi, or on its oen independent circuit. For example, I could have a window pop up on screen that starts a stopwatch when the button is held. But also, having the vape on an independent circuit would allow it to run even while the pi is powered off (ie: more battery life). Nothing says I can't do both either, just have the vape circuitry be independent, while also having the button go to the Pi for it to do what it wants with that signal.

Here's my parts list so far:

Parts list:

• 18650 battery cell (2 of them?)
• Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W
• Tiny display that is compatible with Pi Zero (TBD)
• Button
• Wires
• MOSFET(?) for controlling power to cart (which one?)
• 510 thread port ("cart port")
• Charging circuit w/ USB-C support (Fast charging?)

And, I'll close by trying to answer some questions you might have:

• Why?

-- It's a "learning exercise". Also because I think it would be funny. I have enough free time and engineering know-how to want to do it.

• What's your budget?

-- I'm trying to keep parts to $100 or less. I can't imagine we'll need more than $100.

• Why put a Pi in a vape? Does it serve any functional purpose?

-- No! But it would be quite funny. Plus, it opens the door to making a hackable vape, for whatever that's worth.

• When do you want it to be done by?

-- I'd like to try and have it done by December. The earlier the better, but I'm not in any sort of rush to get this done.

• What about the case?

-- 3D printed. The shape and size of the case will end up molding around how much space I need to fit all the components in. It's not going to be pretty, but I want it to be able to be disassembled with screws. I don't care if it doesn't actually look like a vape.

• Will you open source the wiring diagrams, parts list and casing?

-- Of course!

• What's wrong with you?

-- A lot.

Thanks for reading. I'm open to any suggestions or criticism (as long as it's not just "This is a dumb idea, stop wasting your time"), and I hope to get to share this project with you. Thanks!

Update1:

Hi everyone! I've been thinking the past day, and this is what I've come up with: First of all, I decided I'm going to use a Raspberry Pi Pico (based off of a RP2040) as a microcontroller for the vape circuity. The Pico will be carrying out the following tasks:

• Actuating the gate on the MOSFET for the vape port
• Monitoring battery, charger, and vape voltage
• Communicating voltage values and button presses to the Pi using UART Serial
• Reading signal from the button
• Sending a shutdown signal to the Pi

One thing I want to be able to do is turn the pi on or off using the button. As in, if you click the button 5 times, it sends a shutdown signal to the pi for a graceful shutdown. If clicked while the Pi is off, it bridges the RUN pins to make it power back on. I can achieve this by either using a GPIO pin or a UART string that, when recieved by the Pi, runs a shutdown command. Another thing I'd like to figure out is how to shut off the Pico when the vape is not being used. I'm not sure how I could power off the Pico while being able to turn it back on. So, that's another thing I'd like to be able to sort out. I'm fine not using a Pi Pico as a microcontroller, so if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear it.

Here's what my plan to have the button do is so far:

• Single press / press and hold: Contact MOSFET to vape port
• Double press: Close MOSFET until button pressed (preheat)
• Quadruple press: Send shutdown signal to Pi and close RUN pins
• 5 presses: Lock controls until next 5 presses (Preferrably this would turn the Pico off)

I cobbled together a schematic: https://imgur.com/a/lJcbDne

The Pi4 and Pico will talk to each other via UART serial, so as things happen with the vape circuit, it will tell the Pi, and it can parse the data "packets" it sends. For example:

• [B:3.829] - battery voltage is 3.829V. Sent periodically
• V:4.012] - Cart voltage is 4.012V. Sent when contact opened, also used to indicate switch held
• [SC] - Switch Closed, done when button released.
• [PH] - Sent on double click (preheat)
• [CL] - Controls Locked - Displays an icon letting the user know the controls are locked.

I still don't know what MOSFET to use. I'd like to go with no more than 10W of power output. Variable power output would be awesome, but I have no idea how that works.

Also, I decided to switch to a Pi4, at least for the first revision of this. I just can't get much great support for tiny screens for Pi Zero that don't need a stylus. It's just harder without a ribbon display connector, since I want to leave GPIO open for communication. I'm also having a hard time deciding on a display. I really wanted a HyperPixel 4.0, but it seems that it blocks off the GPIO. Maybe there's a chance I could make a breakout and use the GPIO pins I need, but I can't find any info on what pins it uses.

Hey y'all. I am trying to build a battery that is based off of a rpi pico and utilizes the pwm protocol. Currently, I have had sucess in having varying voltages through the use of pwm, however the current is too low (~12mA whereas I need 2-3A). Unfortunately I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to electronics, and I'm not sure how exactly I could do this. I tried using a NTE2687 mos as recommended by Copilot, but that was to no avail. Anyone have any advice/suggestions?

Hello, I am trying to create my own vape (with disposable pods). I want to create something similar to a Vuse Alto and Juul. With that being said, I am aiming for:

Coil Resistance: 1-1.6 ohms

Battery: 500 mAh LiPo

How much current is on average delivered to a pod? I have estimated that a Juul uses on average 1.2 A and a Vuse uses 2.1 A. I estimated these currents based on:
* Puff Amount per Battery Cycle

* Average Puff Length

* mAh of battery

Does anyone know the actual current amounts delivered to the coil? I know Juul has temperature vary the current.

Also, how are these amounts of current even possible with the batteries being used? I noticed with a lot of LiPo batteries, the allowed current matches the mAh rating. For instance, a 400 mAh battery can only produce 400mA.

Hi everyone! Im new in this sub and want to ask where i should to buy parts for unregulated mech lipo box mod? And maybe someone can give me diagram to do that? I think i could to do 8.4v lipo mod, thanks!

Now I have built my fair share of vape mods. I've used 555 timers, pwm modules, microcontrollers to varying degrees of success, yet more recently in research for other projects, I've come across a method to control the voltage going to the coil that is so God damn stupidly simple that it's a wonder I haven't found anything about it up until now.

Is this going to be as accurate as a pwm signal? No.

Will it do the job for someone that wants a basic control over the voltage going to the coil regardless of what the voltage of the battery is? Yes.

Will you get extremely fine control to the point where you could have almost no voltage coming from the battery or all the voltage coming from the battery? No.

Is it so God damn simple that likely anyone could hook it up without needing to know how to hook up the 500 connections on a 555 timer, or needing to code a microcontroller to create a pwm signal? Yes.

Is it so God damn simple it's good enough for a basic Vape mod for someone that wants to build their own Vape mod and have control over the voltage? Yes.

I'm talking about a simple RC oscillator.

1. Connect positive of the battery to the positive of the 510
2. Take the mosfet of your choice and connect the negative coming from your 510 and attach it to the drain.
3. Connector source to ground.
4. Connect a 1k to 15k resistor between the gate and the source. Lower value equals higher switching, higher value equals slower switching. Each have their positive, each have their negatives. Those positives and negatives come from heat generation in their own way. I would opt for something in the middle.
5. Connect one end of a 0.1 microfarad ceramic capacitor to the drain.
6. Connect the other end of the capacitor to a momentary switch.
7. Connect the other end of the momentary switch to the gate.
8. Connect the wiper of a 2K or 5K potentiometer to the gate or gate.
9. Connect one of the outer pins of the potentiometer to the other pin that you didn't connect it to in Step 8

That's it.

Four cheap components to control the voltage. The more knowledgeable people will point out that this will always equal a duty cycle of 50%. This is true. However the time the mosfet spends on and off increases and decrease with the resistance of the potentiometer. This effectively means you're sending more power to the coil for longer periods of time giving you more heat. Despite the duty cycle always being 50%, you should be able to get close to the full voltage of the battery depending on what the battery voltage is and send it to the coil. Again this is not super accurate, this is not super effective. This is meant to be simple and give someone a start in building their own mod with controllable amounts of power. So many people build unregulated devices with a mosfet. Just adding two more components gives you a measure of Regulation.

Hi. I have problem with my Charon TC 218. It always show some resistance, something like 0.55-0.70. It doesn't matter if the atomizer is screwed on or not, this happens even without the connector, the device works but because it constantly shows resistance it doesn't give the correct power to the coil. There is also no message "no atomizer". Does anyone have any idea what could have broken?

Hello everyone, not sure if this is really possible or if this is even the right sub, but I'm looking into running an LED (or other electronics) from an Mod output which wold take me removing basically every protection feature from it.

If by any chance you are wondering why I would wanna do this, I like the fact that the mod is really compact and has a internal buck-boost converter that can change the voltage pretty precisely. I also don't vape so I have no other use for it =p

Edit: Managed to make it work but it's definitely not worth doing imo. It works without modifying any thing but it's extremely imprecise, the voltage that the mod shows is around 2× lower then the actual output voltage and has really bad electrical noise. It also only works with resistive loads and refuses to work with inductive or capacitive ones

I recently acquired a HOG400 from someone to fix a "check battery" issue that would not go away. I resolderd the wires, but the positive battery wire keeps shorting and rapidly heating up.

This is the wiring that was being used, with the wires coming from the positive battery and/or the one to the enclosure on the positive side would melt.

It seems a bit off compared to Evolv's specs, but I keep getting a shorted positive no matter what config I try, especially with a bridged terminal connection for batteries 2 and 3

3S and 4S configuration, which I can not use sensibly with the HOG400

Can I wire it as so and avoid shorting while making the board happy? Or am I missing something

My idea is bat 1 send to b- and jump to ground tap. I planned to send two wires connecting bat 1 to the double terminal. Send that connection to T1. T2 will be the normal double connection. Then connect the double terminal to bat 4, and send signal to T3. Send positive to t4, and send contact to enclosure to b+