I'm looking for somone who makes or can make some 3D printed pannels for Lost vape B60 i haven't had any luck if anyone knows of anyone.

Can someone point me at resources to learn? I want to design a 3-D Print Squonker that looks good, not the typical boring box, but I have no idea where to start.

Hey guys, first time posting here, but does anyone know where i can find an model for the RX200/RX200s enclosure. I want to do redo the mod 3D printed seeing as its original enclosure has perished. Or is this even possible?

sorry for the noob question.

I found a file in thingiverse for a neat DNA75 squonk mod. I am looking for someone willing to print it, who accepts PayPal. I am posting from mobile, so can only provide a file link. Also, since I have no idea how the 3D print files work, I would like to talk minor changes if at all possible. PM me if interested, hopefully we can come to an agreement on price. Thanks for y’all time!

Hey guys new to sub, looking to start 3d printing soon, and I'm excited about the possibility of making my own mod. The question I have is about printing Pom, I've read through a bunch of posts here and I've seen different filament recommendations but none about pom. Is Pom not suitable for mods, or is too expensive, hard to work with?

I'm not electronically savvy. I am wanting to create a custom case for a single battery evic mod. Is it feasible at all to build a 3D case that snaps around the existing one so I don't have to unscrew and re-assemble everything?

One concern I have is the battery lid. Having to remove that regularly would be an issue; adding another step to change batteries.

Hi 3DPV!

It's nice to see a dedicated line of mod making. I have a few questions with regards to 3d printing mods.

1. Do you think 3d printed mods made on a FDM printer good enough to make a reliable mod?

2. What filaments do you guys use to widthstand the heat it may see?

3. How do you post process your 3d printed mods?

Many thanks 3DPV!

recommended upgrades for an anet a8? specifically ones that would allow me to safely print CFR nylon filament

I am looking to print a simple Dual 18650 box mod were all I have to do is add parts. Any STL's available? Worst case I will open Solid Works and knock it out.

I been redesigning this SC box from thingiverse. It's been a huge pain for me since I just a beginner at modeling. This is how it looks so far.

3D printed SX 350 J. Sliding door, magnetic mount face plate(not done). The sled is separate so that it can be built, 510 screw holds sled in place. Button will be 3D printed; standard battery clips.

Updated: http://imgur.com/a/eXGYo

Update 4-5: http://imgur.com/a/fBMCq

it is a 3 part design for a single 18650 dna 40 big screen with light-up button 1 amp charging and a usb power out

links:

http://shpws.me/J3hs

http://shpws.me/J3hr

http://shpws.me/J3hq

BOM:

1 https://www.adafruit.com/products/1833

1 https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465

1 https://www.adafruit.com/products/2093

2 regular mini pushbutton (the kind you use in breadboard or perfboard)

1 fatdaddyvapes v4 510 and 22 mm juice well

1 DNA40 big screen

4 3mm x 3mm cylinder neodymium magnets

2 http://www.keyelco.com/product.cfm/Slide-In-A-Battery-Contacts/5209/product_id/889

a small piece of perfboard

cables and solder

the design is a little hard to assemble (the USB charging board made it big enough so i made it a little crammed) but mine has been working flawlessly for 3 months and it has seen a lot of abuse (i made it on white strong and flexible plastic), if anyone is interested in making one ill help with any doubt you might have

http://i.gyazo.com/3790b2498bf8a6e414b3927fb3086094.png

Originally started working on this for a customer, sale didn't go through. I was gonna do some more work on it before releasing the files but honestly i've been so busy I haven't had the time. That and i can't get abs to stick to my printer bed for the life of me... Figure I'll post it up and if anyone wants to spend a few minutes touching up the tolerances of the C frame Cover and modeling some buttons it will be good to go.

Its meant to fit a 3s 1300mah lipo and a dna 200. Smaller battery packs will need modification. Also needs a fat daddy low profile short v4 510 connection due to limited space. Also you'll need to add magnets or screws somewhere to lock the cover in place. My original idea was to put 4 neo magnets at the top and the bottom in the curve of the cover and frame.

All the files can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:939394/#files

If you get one printed make sure to shoot me a PM with pictures! I'd love to see it.

edit: original creator of the face-plate informed me he made buttons for the face-plate. I've since added them to the downloadable files.

I would not mind trying my hand at drip tips and chuffs, but am wondering if PLA would be good enough, or do I need ABS? (or is ABS even good enough?)

Thanks!

Preferably the IRLB3034PBF? Thanks!

Hi.

So, first of; I'm a bit of a CAD nerd.

Yesterday I was scouring the web for a good reference model of keystones battery sled, unfortunately I got little to no result.

I reasoned, since it is probably a model that I will be using every once in a while, I might as well take some time and made one, so I did.

Now this has been a very giving sub and I feel I want to give something back. So my question is; is this sort of stuff something people are in need of, and in that case, where do I best share it?

I also made the FDV 510 V3 yesterday.

EDIT: The models are made from the most accurate blueprints that I could find. However these blueprints were still missing some measurements, So I do not know for sure that they are 100% accurate.

Has anyone printed up a zero sleeve? Is it even possible??? I bet you could do some cool designs and it would cut down on the overall weight.

Hi guys. So a couple of days ago I posted this thread. Where I asked for a fun CAD challenge. /u/shentheory asked me to make the vapor flask and it caught my fancy. I picked the vapor flask because of its beautiful simplistic design, and because I knew right of the bat that its surface transitions would be a real challenge. It seems very basic, I know, but things are not always what they seem.

When I was done with the model I realized that it was an excellent subject to explain what it is i specialize in.

Here is the basic exterior of the model. As you can see i made three of them, please allow me to explain why.

The model furthest to the right is of the same quality at their production model. A keen eye will see that there is a sort of shady line marking the transition between the front and the side. With this weird shader called a zebra reflection you can easier see what is happening.

Now it's going to get a bit theoretical I'll try and explain as best I can. The basic shape of the model can be described as two bigger circles touching two smaller circles like this. The way in which the circles meet are known as a tangency. A tangency basically means that they have the same angle where they touch.

So how do we get rid of the ugly tangency line? Now here is where stuff gets interesting. By altering the surfaces a little we can achieve what is known as a curvature transition. On the pictures that is the one in the middle. A curvature transition basically means that at the spot where the two surfaces meet they are equally round.

There is a nifty little tool we like to use that visualizes curvature by plotting lines whose length corresponds to the curvature of the evaluated object... eeh I guess showing it is easier. Here. So this gives us a much smoother transition, good problem solved. Well unfortionatly it's not really that easy. Remember how I said that we have to alter the surfaces in order to achieve this? Well when we stick an atty on there we will have a perfectly cylindrical object to compare the edge to. This means that we will have to deform the original as little as possible now that is the real challenge.

But what of the third model? Well, just for the heck of it I made an even better model. On this model the combs form a tangency transition. This will make it seem like there is no transition at all between the surfaces. I get away with a maximum deviation of 0.25 mm from the original, it is a bit more than i wanted.. but I got bored

Hi guys, I just found this sub. Some of the stuff here looks really interesting and i'm quite intrigued to contribute.

I'm a surface designer by trade, meaning i CAD advanced freeform shapes, mostly car exterior/interior or picky consumer products. It's very difficult work, but I love a good challange. So i was wondering what this sub is looking for? Because of my area of expertise i'm mostly interested in the outside shape of the box, the insides are kind of boring.

Any requests?