Was lookin around for stuff and bothered to look at my brothers gaming cable mangment, hes got two long extentions going to a single. bad dasy-chaining?

Hi everyone! I was wondering, is there any website that can help to monitor and/or has data about zonal grid congestion in Europe (also by TSO is fine), for example in Germany/Netherlands/France? I’m writing my thesis regarding this issue and would be really thankful if someone could help me. Seems like this is a black hole in terms of data availability. Thanks!

i dont know if this is a proper place for it but couldnt find anywhere other to ask. my rgb strips arent working as supposed to be and im blaming electricity. theyre not bluetooth ones theyre plugged into the outlet. when i turn them on, usually they shine in rainbow colors before i use the remote. but instead they shine in random color, not responding to a remote and the color fades away, usually into white. sometimes, after a while it starts working and shining into rainbow colors and responds to the remote. i opened its box-thing but theres no problem inside. any idea what could cause it?

To find amps at different voltages you will need to find watts which is V·A=W. Let's put this in to a real world situation. Let's say we have a vacuum that is 8.33 amps at 120 volts 13·120=1,560 watts and say that we would like to find the amperage at 12 volts and to find this we would need to take 1560/5 which equals 312 amps. This formula does not consider "energy loss" via heat or conductor resistance, which would require proper accomodation in order to work properly.

I cant find any sources on this wiring configuration so i am asking here before i try it

So I live in a dorm room and just got a new monitor and realized that whenever the fridge compressor in the kitchen turns on and off my screen goes black for a second. Didn't have issues with the old screen and was wondering how damaging is it for the monitor and is there any way to fix it?

Hi Guys,

I would need help to investigate is my Subwoofers toroid dead. The toroid has 6 input and 6 outputs. If I measure continuity, there are two input pairs with continuity (RED-BLUE and BLACK-WHITE) but grey pair does not has continuity and there is no continuity to any output neither. Should all these inputs has pair or is this grey pair discontinuity indication that the toroid is dead?

Thx

Mika

https://preview.redd.it/mz8ps94fgv3e1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=8543597e11146a9f376c933b69fd0a81b442aff3

https://preview.redd.it/c3hpc94fgv3e1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=72e64df4712a032a7ded2a2ad721c2a75a06dd0a

https://preview.redd.it/0rcot84fgv3e1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=972305f93900fb0c2ad014cbe1e1b3d95f1f2056

https://preview.redd.it/4hvkx94fgv3e1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=515eb40e397806ef0ddef18c4ae3dae4d2f29625

Hello, there.

Forgive me my ignorance in advance...

I need a decent 10 socket power strip with surge protection, that doesn't break the bank; let's say, 30-50€ max?

A few things:

• I am in Europe(Portugal).
• The stuff i'm going to plug is: pc (with a 650-700w power supply, a sound interface, 2 studio monitors, an lg 34" ultrawide, a room lamp(with 3 led lamps and a cellphone charger.

I have attached 2 images of the one i currently have, and have had, for about 10 years now. It is still working but i wonder if there is anything better out there, from a well known and trusted brand, in that price range; maybe with a few more options like the Anker one i mention in this post.

I have seen this Anker power strip (351) that has more sockets than i need and is cheap, but i have read people, who i assume know more than i do about electricity, say that it sucks.

I know 30-50€ may not be a smart choice to protect thousands of € of equipment, but with all the overpriced stuff across many industries, and me not knowing much about the subject, i have no idea where the law of diminishing returns is when it comes to a product like this.

Does anyone have any recommendation?

All the best.

https://preview.redd.it/816xy7hj9r3e1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3edbca03eb08317f69d371d4004301919a7248ec

https://preview.redd.it/h898zahj9r3e1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d832f7027a83fbfd98a2e4374ada1d562662cca

Hi, I'm totally oblivious when it comes to electricity. I am in the UK. I am wanting to set up a 3D Printer, a wash and cure station and also a heating band on the printer. I have a couple of questions.

Question 1 - Is it ok to use an extension lead running from an external plug socket as a temporary measure until I can save a bit of cash and get a double socket ran into the shed from the house. I would only use the extension when actually using the printer and would unplug it all and store the extension away when not using it. Not leaving it outside 24/7. Is this ok for now or is it a stupid idea?

Question 2 - I have looked on the Elegoo website and can see that it says the amperage of the Printer is 7.5amps. I was wondering if this seems high for a single device? I cant find the amperage of the Any cubic wash and cure station 3 anywhere. I would also need to plug in a heating band for the printer which again I cant find the amperage for. Does anyone know how I could find out these so not to create a fire risk.

Appreciate anyone who read all that and thanks for any help.

Two living room wall sockets (three prong), about six feet apart on walls at 90 degrees to each other. Had been working fine, then one day were putting out 105v. Breaker is fine, GFCI is fine, there was no surge or lightning storm (but I *did* have a faulty lamp plugged into one of the sockets, though that was weeks earlier. It turned the faceplate brown and fried that coatings on some of the wires--ReStore should not have sold that lamp). So I bought new receptacles and installed them. The one on the "fried" socket worked immediately, 119v. The other outlet will not produce anything. NOTHING. Zero. Nada. The wires look great, the connections are fine (checked and double checked, both of us). House was built mid-50s. Yes, they are on the same artery, but the ones on the other side of the wall work fine. Thinking to try one long-odds possibility, I hooked up a different brand-new receptacle. Nope. Still registers ZERO voltage (sucker isn't even TRYING). So....must be a wiring issue, but WHY/how (and would a $75 visit from an electrician set this right?).

Woke up this morning and half of my house didn't have power. Been noticing the computer has been saying it hasn't been shut down properly at times too. It is on the line that didn't have power. I turned my 220v aircompressor on, which is on its own breaker and then the outed line came back on for the whole house. No breakers were tripped No neighbors are having a similar issue?

Since July month we haven't been able to pay our electricity bills up until now. We didn't receive also a disconnection letter, but we will settle it soon. I'm just curious kasi po ilang months na po pala bago mag disconnect si meralco. TIA for the answers!

You recieve this after paying your first bill.

https://m.origin.com.au/e/1a5uNbjASOb

We are about 85% done with our new build, however Edison (SCE) is unable to find us enough power/ampage to provide us without costing a deep hole in our pockets.

Backstory, the previous house on the property when we bought it was under 1000sqft and didn’t require much power (100 amps was enough). Our new build is requiring us to have 400 amps. Edison states they are unable to provide us that much power in the existing power pole. They’ve ran numbers the last 6 months and stated that they cannot use that existing like as it will cause flickering issues and cause a black out in our block.

There are no power poles on our side of the street. All the power poles on our block are on the back side of the street and our neighbors are not willing to budge on providing an easement to go through their property. The only option left that they told us was that we would have to trench from the main street up to our property and put a transformer in front of our property but that will likely cost over $200k (money we do not have!).

Has anyone else run into any similar issues? The city also stated that they can’t do anything about it, as Edison is a private company. Any help pointing us in the right direction is appreciated!

Hi, Im working on a homemade arc welder from two modified microwave transformers. 240v input, primarys in series, secondaries in parallel, 40v output. I tested it yesterday and it works although my welding is bad.

So here's the question, I used a clamp meter ony primarys with the meter set to record the max current draw. I measured a max of 55 amps however the circuit is on a 30 amp breaker which never tripped.

My guess is that it only pulled 50 amps for a fraction of a second when I first struck the arc but I'm not positive. So if you have any ideas let me know.

I'm gonna be adding more power controls and rectifier but wanted to test the basic power supply

Thanks

Sorry if this is a bit out of place i have no idea what other sub to use

Hi. Could a current of 3 amp with 70 V could be dangerous for human?

• Check Power Supply: Ensure the elevator is receiving adequate power. Inspect circuit breakers and fuses. • Inspect Control System: Verify that the digital control system is functioning correctly. Look for error codes on the display and consult the manual for troubleshooting guidance. • Examine Brake System: If the elevator is noisy or stops abruptly, inspect the brake system. Ensure it operates smoothly without emergency stops. • Sensor Functionality: Test the infrared sensors to ensure they detect passengers accurately. Clean any obstructions that may affect their performance. • Fan Operation: If there are issues with air circulation, check the fan speed settings and ensure they adjust according to load as designed. • Maintenance Logs: Review maintenance records for any recurring issues or patterns that could indicate underlying problems. • Consult Technical Support: If issues persist, contact Mitsubishi's technical support for expert assistance and potential parts replacement. Regular maintenance can prevent many issues and ensure optimal performance of the elevator system in Ethiopia Africa

tldr: my drawing tablet and cable shocked me while my new electric blanket was plugged in and i want to know why

sorry for the weirdly worded title i'm not knowledgable on many things i'm just a humble artist

so i got an electric heated mattress cover thing today. i have a drawing tablet, it has a metal back cover of some sort. i have never had any problems with it shocking me or getting static electricity from it. it's plugged into an extension lead with five plugs and a fuse in. my pc and monitor are also plugged into this lead but i've never had problems with them either.

i plug in the electric blanket after unfolding it, everything's plugged in correctly, but the second i turn the blanket on the metal case of the tablet feels weird, almost like it's vibrating[?] if i run my fingers over it. and i have to hold the tablet to draw with it so i couldn't just not touch that part.

so then i decide to unplug the tablet, it uses a usb c connector on that end that handles power and i/o simultaneously, and i accidentally touch the usb c part. and it shocks me bad enough theres a mark on my hand, and at that point i unplug both the tablet and blanket from the wall

a second test confirms that yeah it is only happening if the blanket and tablet are plugged in at the same time and both are on. i can't change out the tablet cable for a new one cause they're proprietary and i'm not rich enough to be buying parts from huion without knowing i for sure need it, but i'm pretty sure it's the blanket anyway

MY QUESTION IS: is this a result of using an extension box and should i try to replace it, is it a fault of the electric blanket, or is this an overload thing and the tablet and blanket just don't like each other and i should get another extension cable for a seperate wall socket and have that only be for the blanket?

thanks in advance i dunno where else to ask this

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I have solar panels. It is a full 15 kw dc array. I recently added 2 Franklin white 13.2 kw batteries. I enrolled in Massachusetts (VPP) virtual power plant program. National Grid Electric had drained the battery 48 times over the summer. They will have to pay me for the energy they took. Records show that my electric to the house has gone out for 10-12 seconds 26 times since I enrolled in the VPP. My agate sends me a notification every time. My neighbors, houses close to mine, have never had a disruption in electricity. What do I do

if anyone needs it

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Moved into a property on the 1st October had lots of issues getting electric and gas setup we just recieved our first bill and it's way to high for a start we've been billed for a period that we wernt even at the property, it was completely empty, no appliances at all. They estimated the bill at over 200 for 12 days then for the next 6 weeks it's over 1000 pounds how the hell did they get to this number our smart meters shows on avg we use about 3.50 per day. Is this common for electricity companies to make such big mistakes and how easy is this going to be to solve?

I’ve been using Rhythm Energy for over 2 years now. The company offers one of the lowest rates in Texas and the penalty for early termination is only $10/month for the remaining period. Its power is 100% renewable. Their customer interface is super user-friendly and I really like it.

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I wanted to measure the voltage of my room outlet usually produces(250V,50Hz,6A,AC) using multimeter .I attached the probes to 10A port in multimeter and placed in the outlet there was a spark in the negative probe and I quickly took it out the whole thing happened less than 5 sec and the tip of my probe still managed to melt. I decided to use the 10A port in the multimeter since I was told that it could handle a max current of 10A for a provided time in my case it was 15-30sec.I though choosing this would be a safer option but it wasn't the case. But I did managed to get the current reading of my ac source while using mAV(ohm).

So what is the purpose of the 10A settings in it ? Can anyone share their experiences with this? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

I don't see a main breaker in my electiricty panel. So I thought I should have a service disconnect switch outside. After inspecting the meter, I didn't find a switch.
Did i miss anything?

https://preview.redd.it/eo1fowsuos2e1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=374b11997ee1fcd7551b97a84f05f6033ee8f02f

Hello, I am still very much a fledgling in electronics. Please bear with me as I struggle my way through explaining.

I have an AC adapter that says it outputs 12V DC at a max of 3A. This is powering my circuit, which, as it turns out, wants exactly 12V @ 3A.

How would I go about choosing an appropriate fuse to put on the DC line, in case of a short?

If there was a short, would it allow exactly 3A to flow through, or more? If the former, how could a fuse "tell the difference" between regular 3A use and 3A short?

Hi everyone,

I’m working on a small study to better understand practices and challenges in the field of electrical engineering.

I’m curious: how much time do you usually spend creating or modifying electrical schematics, and do you find that this task impacts the overall engineering process, such as planning, execution, or other stages? What are the biggest challenges you face during this stage?

Thank you in advance for sharing your experiences and insights—they will be incredibly valuable for my study!