Trying to understand what could be the technical reasons for non-conductivity and what the repair to restore conductivity would be.

I tried building what he is making here

https://youtu.be/8X67jNHokuQ

I used TUBTRUGS and aluminum tape like the guy, but I couldn't get a steel trash can that locked.

Instead I bought another bucket that I hoped will do the work, this is the information about the product:

Made of galvanized sheet steel, with deep-drawn cover. Contents 20 l. Edge height 32 cm, Ø top 32 cm, Ø bottom 25.2 cm. Height with lid 39 cm. Weight 1.8 kg.

The combination doesn't block signals like I hoped. Can I make it work somehow?

I HAVE A DIGITAL PIANO AT HOME. That day, I disconnected the other device using the socket, switching the device off and then disconnecting. Then, I plugged in the cable for my piano, and switched the socket on. Suddenly, a bright boom which sounded like explosion. And i saw little bit of smoke. I smelled electricit-ish-smoke. Luckily there wasn't a fire and I wasn't electrocuted. Thank God. BUT GUYS PLEASE HELP I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHAT'S WRONG AND I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO

Hey all, hoping someone can give a little guidance on this issue we're having.

The power to our bedroom stopped working, but the breaker is not tripped when checking the breaker panel.

There is also one outlet in my son's room (which shares a wall with our bedroom) that is not working, but all the others do in his room (including the light).

I've turned off the breaker and pulled out each recepticle to check for loose/damaged/disconnected wires, but nothing seems to be abnormal.

I've used a multimeter to check whether the wires are getting any voltage before getting to the recepticles (with the breaker on), and outlet that is not currently working shows between 0 and 0.5v. All of the outlets that currently work in my son's room all show a normal 120v.

There are two gfci outlets directly underneath the breaker panel. One is marked bedroom 2 wire rec and the other is marked living room 2 wire rec. The one marked bedroom 2 wire rec reads normal with the outlet tester and trips with the gfci test from the multimeter. The one marked living room 2 wire rec reads normal with the tester, but does not trip with the gfci tester from the multimeter. It also does not allow me to press the test button.

I've gone around the house and tested/reset every gfci outlet I can find.

The living room and our bedroom share a wall.

There doesn't seem to be anything that obviously caused this at any of the outlets (no sparks or appliances stopped working, etc.)

Sorry if this is too much information, but I'd like to give everything I have at this point.

Me and my wife were sitting in bed watching YouTube when power to all our bedroom outlets die. No breakers are flipped and I even found the reset plug and that didn't work. I wouldn't be too concerned about it but apparently our fridge, washer, and dryer are on the same circuit as our bedroom outlets and I really don't want all our food to spoil. Can anyone help me or do I need to stay up all night and call an electrician in the morning?

EDIT: A friend suggested that I flip the main breaker anyways even though it wasn't tripped and it fixed everything

So I’m aware this is a 120V 20Amp plug. From everything I’ve heard/seen you can plug standard two prong things into them, however I had a lamp plugged into it and the bulb blew. I wasn’t paying attention but now that I think about it the lamp felt a little brighter than usual. Any clue why this might’ve happen? I’m hoping it had to do with the bulb? Cause if not then maybe the plug itself is faulty?

A bill recently proposed by my state representative seeks to ban 'facilities' that produce extremely low frequency AC electric fields of more than 1V per 25 meters. As ELF includes both 50 and 60 Hz, doesn't this effectively ban the AC power grid as we know it? Shouldn't even the wiring in most homes produce field strengths orders of magnitude higher than this?

Perhaps she is a big fan of Edison's DC electric grid.

What costs more electricity?

An aircond set to auto 16 degree Celsius / 61 for 8hrs per day, versus set to 25 degree Celsius / 77 for a longer time - 20hrs per day.

FYI, I live in a climate with 28-30 degree Celsius / 86 Farenheit room temperature.

I'm a little conflicted since there are many types of power supplies, ones with more voltage and ones with the opposite
I'm trying to make a brushless motor with 18 gauge, it has a limit of 3.7 amp so should I buy the one with more voltage and less current?

Let me try to explain.

Building a campervan, I want the alternator of the car, to also charge the auxiliary battery. I do not want the car and auxiliary battery to be connected, I want to avoid the car battery getting depleted because of use while camping. I understand than a diode can make a 1 way flow. So I want the alternator to feed both batteries, but that the car battery can NOT flow to the auxiliary.

For bonus points, the opposite would be good, the auxiliary battery to flow into the car battery in case of need.

This part is completelly optional and unnecesary as I can just run jumper cables from the auxiliary battery to the car one if ever needed.

Here is a helpful diagram:

Arrows would mean current flow in one direction only (with diodes)

Question is, is this right? Am i missing something? How many diodes and where would I need to put them?

Thanks

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If a piece of equipment flickers the lights in the room once for a split second when it’s first powered on, will that damage my wiring over time?

I'm going on a road trip and was planning on getting a [car charger for my switch](Check out this product I found on GameStop! https://www.gamestop.com/gaming-accessories/chargers-cables/nintendo-switch/products/gamestop-6-ft-car-charger-for-nintendo-switch-nintendo-switch-lite-and-nintendo-switch-oled/357000.html?utm_source=product_share&utm_medium=app). It lists a maximum 20W output via the USB-C.

I was also thinking of bringing my tablet PC for art making (it's going to be a long drive). I checked its included power adapter block, which is rated for an output of 5.0V/3.0A, 15W/ or 20.0V/5.0A, 100W (see included image).

Does this simply mean that for smaller devices like phones, etc, it can output reasonably low power for them, but in the case of high-demand devices (like the tablet) it can deliver up to 100W, and if I were to use the 20W Switch charger it would hardly do anything at all for the tablet?

Thanks!

Hoping for some insight into a diy solution I'm looking to create

I have an electronic appliance with a dc barrel input that takes 24v dc 2a.

I have a battery that has a 14.4v dc output with 15a max output.

If I use a simple cable to connect the battery to the appliance will it charge despite the lower voltage?

Do I need to use a boost converter to step up the voltage to make it work?

Thanks in advance!

This ballast was faulty and I found 2 malfunctioning diodes and replaced them. I'm currently trying to check if it is now working. What should the output voltage be when I measure it with a voltmeter

59/M here .......Finally bought mu forever home and I am replacing all the dated fluorescent lighting in the kitchen with hanging lights. (Now I am a chef by trade, but have wired many many fans, lights, cars, stereos, all kinds of things, but I am no electrician, so thats why I am here). I hung the first one, breaker back on works....great. Hang second one, breaker back on "We have light" Both working, shut them off contemplate doing more, I didnt. We go to bed, next morning the 2nd light works, but now the first one doesnt work. I take it down rewire the whole thing....breaker back on.......NO JOY. Not sure what is going on. I have power to the light.

Seriously confused.

winding wires specifically, something like 20 and 22 or 18 and 20
would it affect the strength of field or heat the wire?

Taking inspiration from Pikachu's controlled beam of horizontal lightning bolt, I tried to imagine an experimental setup that could measure the current produced by such a magical superpower beam.

How can I accurately go about measuring this?

Does having the air conditioner timer on use more electricity than not having it on? If so, is it an appreciable amount? Does it depend a lot on the unit type?

In my case it seems to turn the unit on some kind of standby mode as there is a slight buzzing coming from the unit.

I can't find the answer to this anywhere because every page about electricity and AC timers focuses on the potential electricity saved overall for regulating temperature.

​

I want to find out what type of lights are these if you know please tell me

What do the specs need to be on a power adapter that I can buy on Amazon? Or anywhere else

So I moved into an apartment in early February with my sister and ex- boyfriend (who shortly moved out with a manipulative, lying bitch) and some outlets stopped working randomly, as well as the porch light with the switch on the same wall. My sister plugged in an air freshener earlier today on an adjacent wall and now those outlets are working, as well as the porch light? I know we need to contact maintenance again, but they honestly haven't been helpful since we moved in so we haven't gotten them to take a look yet. But is this safe for now?

I have a eletric cooker that says: power rating 600 watts. I was trying to power it with a portable power station that says AC OUTPUT 80W 88.8 hw

Does that mean I need somethings that's AC OUTPUT of 600Watts??

can anyone help me understand this controller ? it has a variablr capacitor circuit and a pot. A for live and F for fan? the red wire is supposed to be in common with F ?

wanted to use laptop and flat iron in my room however this is the only source of electricity.

can i use this while using extension wire and plug my laptop and flat iron, one at a time? (only plugging laptop and none other things one at a time)

socket > Extension wire > laptop/iron

I need help wiring a 12v circuit for a project. The circuit has6 items.

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• 12V Power Supply
• Stepper Motor
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072V66C51?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
• Forward Reversing Relay
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0879GGVPZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
• DPST 1NO 1NC Relay
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089Q6KLPQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
• SPDT 2 Pin Limit Switch 1 and 2
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SWCJ8FF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

For my circuit, what I want to happen is when the power is turned on. (i have an on button for my 12V power) I would like the stepper motor to turn on. When a limit switch is engaged, i would like the stepper motor to spin in the opposite direction. I would like this to happen every time a limit switch is engaged. I do not have a control module. The limit switches just need to be the trigger to tell the relays to switch the direction of the motor. Keep in mind that the limit switch is a momentary action, so I think that's where the DPST 1NO 1NC Relay comes in. Anywho, how do I wire these like that? The image attached shows the layout. Here's the list of wires to make it easy to answer.

• Power Supply
  • PWR red
  • PWR black
• OONO FWD/REV Relay
  • Bottom Red V+
  • Bottom Black 0V
  • Bottom red M1
  • Bottom Black M2
  • Top blue FWD
  • Top Green REV
  • Top Black 0V
• OONO DPST RELAY
  • Bottom Black SW2:NC2
  • Bottom Red SW2:C2
  • Bottom Black SW1:NO1
  • Bottom Red SW1:C1
  • Top Input Blue
  • Top Input Green
• Stepper Motor
  • Red
  • Black
• Limit Switch 1 (LM1)
  • LM1COMM
  • LM1NC
  • LM1NO
• Limit Switch 2 (LM2)
  • LM2COMM
  • LM2NC
  • LM2NO

​

Any help laying this out or letting me know what should connect to what would be a HUGE help. Thanks in advance!

https://preview.redd.it/nsobwrjmssrc1.png?width=1622&format=png&auto=webp&s=1c030a2d42b2631bf01052b4e405fd67cdf13d5c

USA poster I am having a brain fart moment. I discovered a 10/2 splice inside a wall. No box, just spliced with some nuts and taped. I need to put it into a box, so I was going to undo the mess, add a box, "re-nut" correctly and then wanted to add a line of 12/2 for some outlets on that new wall. Can I just pigtail off the 10/2 junction and wire into a new line at 12/2? I was going to start the 12/2 from the pigtail and into a 20A GFCI and then run 2 outlets along the wall from that. Better way of doing it?

I bought 20m of 28 gauge winding wire to use it for my maglev small project, but when I tried to use it it didn't give any reaction at all, I even tried to make a small homopolar motor but nothing happened, do you have an idea of what the problem may be? maybe it needs more volt? idk