/r/DodgeDakota
This is just a group of people discussing Dodge Dakota pickup trucks. Durangos are welcome!
WELCOME TO /r/DodgeDakota!
Please message a mod to for flair edits
This is a place where you can discuss anything about the Dodge Dakota and the Dodge Durango, including
General Questions
Driver advice
Mechanical know-how
These could be things that you wish you had, things you dislike, or maybe you want to show off some pictures of your truck!
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Specific truck info (Work in Progress): |
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First Gen Dakota Specs |
Second Gen (06 Specific) Dakota Specs PDF |
Third Gen Specs (searching for reliable source) |
General Engine Specs |
Engine swap (courtesy of /u/Trebol) |
Be sure to check out other subs below:
Similar subreddits: |
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/r/Trucks |
/r/Dodge |
/r/mini_trucks |
/r/DodgeDakota
I have a 2000 Dakota and just wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions for apple carplay units?
So the part you push to release the hood after you've pulled the lever in the cab is just flopping all over under there. How do I get the hood open to fix it?
I have a good code reader and a good multimeter but I can’t sit out by the battery and be inside pulling fuses.
The code reader shows real time data points but, it won’t if the ignition is off, right?
It is a farm truck and it will be so dead in 2 weeks that it can’t be jumped off. Battery is new as of this Spring
when I be driving, sometimes my truck has a loss of power doesn’t really shut down but it’s as if gas isn’t going through properly. I went to AutoZone they said that’s the fuel filter doesn’t exist for a 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7 but I don’t know what else it could be anybody can help me with that.
Anybody know what bulbs the climate control panel uses?
For context I have an 06 3.7. I made a post about a day ago explaining the problems I’ve had with the truck after putting a new floor in myself. We took it to the mechanic for a misfire and they said they flushed the water from the two cylinders that were misfiring and they said they fixed the misfire. The second I turned the truck on in the mechanic parking lot I could immediately tell that they didn’t fix the misfire at all. I hate it when the mechanic lies about fixing something
I have been trying to solve the problem for a long time and I can't find a solution.
Does anyone know why the TPS sensor fails?
So for context I have a 99 dakota 5.2L v8 with now 130,000 miles on it. I've only had it for about a year and I noticed the oil in the beginning but now I'm adding 1 qt every 600 miles and I'm not driving fast 60 at highest and it's not leaking on the ground. The exhaust is white not blue, coolent is still green. If anyone could help that would be great.
I've been scratching my head about this issue for a while now, and was curious to know if anyone else has had this issue with their 3rd gen cluster lights going out. Fuses are good, cluster reset does nothing, dimmer switch does nothing, slapping it does nothing, no DTCs pertaining to the cluster, and all the gauges work as intended. Do I send the cluster out to be repaired or am I missing something you might be able to shed some light on? (Pun intended)
I am not sure if this is echoing elsewhere but it sounds like a marble swirling around inside. Oil was changed 2 months ago. Levels are a little overfull but not too bad.
I am having an electrical issue with my 2002 dodge dakota. I have no brights, no running lights, no variable wiper speeds, the cabin light is on all the time, and no beeping warning when i leave the keys in the ignition. It is not the switch module or any fuses, as ive checked them all. I still have turn signals and wipers on max speed.
Hello all,
Does anyone have the factory specs for oil pressure? It seems it should be 4-50psi between idle and high rpms, however the first linked article,
https://www.dakota-durango.com/threads/3-7-too-much-oil-pressure.127725/
has someone commenting that up to 25-110 is normal for 3000 rpms
My motor is having been 40-90psi cold and 30-70psi warm been idle and 3000 rpms. I ran seafoam to try and make sure any oil passages that could be restricting flow might be opened up, but I do not think I noticed any change.
The oil pump looks to be a major pain to change unless you already want to invest in the motor for a major overhaul. I currently only have 168k miles and have bought a full size truck that is replacing the Dakota, so my vested interest in doing any motor work is nil, but I do need to know if this is indeed an issue so I reflect the price accordingly
I have a 2003 dakota that has a blinking abs light and occasionally stalls. Usually if it stalls it turns right back on but on one occasion it wouldnt start again for a few hours. When it runs its pretty smooth. The guy i bought it from said that it had a code for the wheel speed sensors, and i researched it and everything i saw said bad wheel speed sensors will make it do exactly that. I took it to a mechanic and they said it was the PCM not communicating with the sensors. So, i bought a new one from FlashMasters, had it programmed to my vin, and installed it but the abs light is still blinking. I havent driven it to see if it stalls because in the 3 months ive had it its only stalled 3 times. Does anyone have any ideas? Every place i call charges like 300 to reflash the pcm and like 200 for a diagnostic to even tell me if thats the issue and i dont have that kind of money for something that isnt a guarantee
Having my truck repainted, just want to know if this panel would be correct, my truck is a 97 Club 4x4.
I'm gonna be straight up, i hate bluetooth, and i hate the little radio transmitter thingies. bluetooth connection takes time and is too unreliable, and my phone has AUX out. and i honestly just hate static.
anyone got a cheap solution that ideally doesn't involve buying a new $100+ head unit?
So I'm like beating out the bushes looking for a new center console for my 1995 Dakota any one have any leads?
Adds seven herspers and three torques, but you'd better have a right handed glove handy for really hot or cold days...DAMHIK.
Bought a 2008 Dodge Dakota a few months ago at dealer. They said since I didn’t buy warranty, tough Sht! 4 different check engine light problems. Since Fixed. But Biggest issue is, gas gage doesn’t work properly in dash - and - when I try to put gas in the tank, the tank keeps rejecting the gas like it’s completely full, overflowing out and spilling onto ground! yet the gage has gone down to almost empty. Each time I put gas in, the gas nozzle stops after 20-30 cents etc. So I can’t tell what TF is going on and if my truck is running low on gas or is completely full. Please help!!