Giving my bench the once over. I usually wait until January, but I tipped over a little cup of dye and it's all I see. It's still not erased, but better. It was Van Dyke Brown.

Do I make the top of oak and the legs of beech, or the top of beech and the legs of oak?

Hello,

I am designing a big workbench to use for a signage workshop, the top will be a full 250x125 cm OSB, probably a 2.2 cm thick one with a 1cm one on the top that can be replaced in the future, 0.9 or 1 meter tall legs to comfortably work standing around it and i would like to use only 8x8 cm beams and some short/long screws to hold everything together, to have a simple shopping list.
For now we are only building one, but the plan is for 2 of this size.

I am worried about the way the legs join the main frame, i also have some spots where i could either put one screw thru 3 beams, or screw then 2 at a time.
The way I would screw them is also concerning, do I screw them perpendicular or would it be better to do it at an angle, all with/without pilot holes.
Would also appreciate some tips for the height to comfortably work around it but also reach the middle, will get some adjusting feet probably.
I want to get the size right so i can cut the lumber directly at the lumber store to minimize dust in the sign-shop.

Top Surface: 250 x 125 cm → 98.43 x 49.21 in (closest: 96 x 48 in)
OSB Thickness: 2.2 cm + 1 cm → 7/8 in + 3/8 in
Leg Height: 90–100 cm → 36–39 in
Beams: 8 x 8 cm → 3.15 x 3.15 in (closest: 3 x 3 in or 4 x 4 in nominal)

https://preview.redd.it/geefvhahm24e1.png?width=1089&format=png&auto=webp&s=5aa1d9806b240153242ce3b429eaa259a58c99c6

https://preview.redd.it/03zgtdnim24e1.png?width=1083&format=png&auto=webp&s=3a312f0896a0eb0d606ea0b0fe9041b3bab606f9

I scoured a bunch of free plans on the internet and put together my own hybrid version of a combo miter/table saw workbench. When I want to use the table saw (right side), I will remove the miter saw (middle) from its base and fill with a plywood "leaf".

However, I am wondering what the best way to support the miter saw base would be based on the design that I have configured, or what I should change in order to optimally support it while the miter saw is being used? A video I referenced for this section just attaches it with (8) #9 3-1/8" screws but my worry is that just screwing into the edges of the 2x4 legs on the front and back of each "side" will not be enough. The miter saw is a DeWalt DW779 - which weighs about 70 lbs.

The black blocks at the bottom will be casters, I just couldn't bother making a wheel in SketchUp haha.

I would really appreciate any help or suggestions. I know I could just run legs down underneath the miter section but am wondering if I can avoid that. Thanks in advance!

https://preview.redd.it/w8q8y3f0lr3e1.png?width=1494&format=png&auto=webp&s=c3756ef4b08b047613cb96f38b24d1862cecd1a5

https://preview.redd.it/nfdok4f0lr3e1.png?width=1967&format=png&auto=webp&s=f8d6fe13fc22e7b0806ce43a5664edc497ce0933

https://preview.redd.it/axvxj4f0lr3e1.png?width=1718&format=png&auto=webp&s=7df04ed9a61f6ed35a4be19efd57c6110dfdd173

https://preview.redd.it/o25gr3f0lr3e1.png?width=1290&format=png&auto=webp&s=c62b6039412b8ed8e56bda1d80d4b53ab5d0392d

This was part of the original kitchen cabinets to my house. Built by the original owner. He was a tool and die man. I’ve decided to keep it.

I’ve been considering building a bench for my rapidly growing 3D printer collection and came across this page from one of the 3D printing pages.

I have 4 main questions, although, my gut already has me an answer for my second question.

Note: I’m trying to minimize cost as much as possible without straight up cheaping out.

1. Do I sacrifice any structural integrity or stability by going with 2x3’s instead of 2x4’s?

2. Should I run with 4x4 for legs, or use 2x3/2x4 and brace extra well?

3. Does anyone have any recommendations for insulating rubber feet? 3D printers generate a ton of vibrations and I feel like rubberizing the feet would dampen that significantly?

4. I’m likely going to throw on a peg board back for tool and filament storage. Are there any peg board types I should absolutely avoid?

https://preview.redd.it/vv7werg5v43e1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a79a0a68f1c1e6cdff00264f28c428f751a83b00

Here is my workbench. I built it to my specs and needs. Primarily, I make memorial marbles using cremains using a propane and oxygen powered torch made by Glass Torch Technologies. The blue box thing is an annealer that is programmed to sit at 1050*f until I'm done for the day. It then is programmed to cool down in intervals to allow for thermal expansion or in this case, thermal retraction.

I have caught slack from other glass artists that my bench is too clean, but I can't work in a mess.

I am planning on putting floating shelves above my workbench that I am in the beginning stages of planning. Can anyone please recommend the smartest fastener (screw, bolt, etc) to use when driving the shelves into the studs. Thanks in advance.

Have any Aussies made this bench? Would like to get opinions on some metric sizes and if 2400w x 1200d x 1000h bench would look disproportionate using 90x35 for everything? Was originally going to use 140x35 but was going to be $960 for materials from bunnings. Can halve the cost using 90x35.

Will gladly accept advice from everything. I'm an electrician by trade and need a workbench for my shed and hobbies. So was thinking 2400x1200 to cover all bases.

Tia

Recently finish a English inspired work bench, bonus points for obtaining all the wood and the vice for free. I distress painted the legs to take away from the green pressure treated wood used there. The paint was also free haha. It did see a project or two before posting this.

The old tool box to the left is full of various rasps and files, draw knife’s, spoke shaves, and various other goodies.

Hi workbench community

I want to create a very simple fence that consists of a 500mm length of 40x20mm beech that connects to parallel T tracks 415mm between centres, in my router table.

I am going to drill through the wood and use M8 T track bolts.

I've seen videos of people making simple jigs, like a hinged mitre fence, they drill through wood and also drill a shallow recess, they hammer in washers with a few teeth on the back to protect the wood/hole (for example when I bolt it to my T track)

Problem I have, I have no idea what these toothed washers are called. Now I need a couple of them I cannot even find a photo of them.

Can anyone help? They are not toothed washers, they are not dog tooth washers. They look a bit like pronged tee nuts, but I don't want tee shaped or threaded. If I search for pronged washers then I'm getting close but I cannot see them with round holes.

Can anyone suggest a name to search for? Flat round washers, with a round hole and 4 prongs on the back to hammer in to a batten to protect a drill hole.

Took a lot of inspiration from a YouTube video where the table had a tool shelf to keep tools off the top. May add a shelf below or eventually drawers. Top is two layers of 3/4 mdf, 30x80 with overhang. I will build two like this plus one with a cut out in the middle to hold “modules” for mitre saw, router table, and planer. Also have a modified design for Deealt job site saw. I hope to have them all hook together in a modular setup.