I'm new to 3d printing. I got an Ultimaker 2+ extended in a silent auction at work, we were getting rid of some of our older equipment. I've run a bunch of stuff using ultimaker PLA but I picked up some MatterHackers Build PLA after reading around on recommendations. I am using Ultimaker Cura to slice.

I am having all kinds of trouble with the MH. It won't adhere to the build plate sometimes. If I get it so it does adhere before it finishes the brim it hardens inside above the nozzle and won't extrude anymore. I have been reading on what to do and I've tried messing a little with temp or fan cooling speed but one just leads to a different problem. Can anyone shed some light on either settings that work for them or a good way to go about trouble shooting this?

Hi all, I'm trying to repair an S5 feeder that someone covered in glue. The collet and clip were destroyed. I can find models for the clip to print but for the life of me can't find the collet. Anyone have any ideas?

Hello all, I recently got my hands on a CC nozzle along with some nylon 6 CF composite filament from Polymaker (PA6-CF). I have been having many extrusion problems with this filament, and I have no idea why. I had thoroughly cleaned the nozzle with cleaning filament, increased the temperature to the maximum recommended temp, increased and decreased the tension on the system, upgraded the firmware for what it was worth, and completely cleaned and oiled the feeders, in which I found quite a bit of said CF filament which I think is due from when I increased the tension.

When printing with this filament, it will print for almost exactly four hours each time until I get an under-extrusion error of about 0.3 units under the minimum threshold. disabling the flow sensor results in a print where some parts of the print have been normally extruded, and others have only the first few layers that were successful. To me, this means that it is somewhat extruding, but it's spotty and works only about 1/4 of the time. When I remove the filament, it is obvious in some locations that it was ground in the feeder, but in others, it is relatively smooth. The only thing that will get the print working again is to abort it and then restart it. Doing so will result in a perfect print for four hours until it completely stops, and then nothing can get extruded again.

During this print, I try unloading and reloading that filament, cutting off the ground parts of the material. It comes out of the hot end fine and has a good, smooth flow. But the instant that I resume the print, I get a flow error and am forced to abort the print. Any help would be greatly appreciated since I've tried to print this part about 20 times and it has never gotten past four hours out of a 12 hour print

im not sure what im doing wrong but if i try to print a file from ultimaker cura at all it just comes out as thin as a hair, but files from slic3r print just fine, does anyone know how to fix the thin printing issue?

Hi all, new to 3d printing(using an S5) but having a problem where the slicer just seems to ignore the fact there is a gap. It's a rabbit basket with a lot of floating parts. Basically only the front legs and the tail touch the ground but it doesn't seem to recognize that. When I preview each layer, it will print several layers while leaving a hole in the middle, then try to print the first layer of the legs and belly right over the hole. It's also printing the ear that is floating before it prints the feed. I didn't notice until it started printing and then I looked the preview. I have tried playing around with the support settings to no avail. This is from thingiverse, not something I created. I do get Link and photos below. Any help is appreciated. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6530882

​

https://preview.redd.it/68e9uxkjazrc1.png?width=1557&format=png&auto=webp&s=9ff32de907205ae6c29665f408fa9802fb502aa8

Been trying to figure this one out.

​

https://preview.redd.it/br1t2ovllirc1.png?width=1058&format=png&auto=webp&s=af2bd132eed7f5f6a220a4bb4264bbbccdf5cedd

Hi all I am completely new to 3d printing. I am using an scad I found on printables and modified to fit my needs, which is a solar film cover for my telescope. I am using a 3d printer I have at work, which is an ultimaker s5. I am using OpenSCAD and Cura. SCAD code and image for example below.

My question is; what is the easiest way to to bisect my model or maybe break it up into 4? Even with the large printer I have access to it doesn't quite fit. I just tried my first print having the slice angled up with supports but I just abandoned it as something clearly went wrong, also posted below. I just made another slice tweaking some settings and using the tree support but we will see how that looks in the morning.

I tried using Banana split to do it but the problem is that basically just mirrors what is displayed under the plate so while I have two half circles they are straight up still requiring supports, instead of flat. And you can only do that once so any more than a bisect is out.

I would really prefer this to be one piece but if I have to split it and then find a way to connect the pieces after then so be it. Either way I should probably learn how to do it. I've started some cursory googling and so far did find something involving cubes and transforms and I will fiddle with that when I get a chance but wanted to get this out in the ether in case some gurus know of better ways.

Bonus question, if anyone knows of an easy way to modify the split pieces in a way to make them lock together so I don't have to glue or use some bracketing on the fairly thin flange to hold it all together, that'd be great.

thanks.

​

include <BOSL2/std.scad>

$slop=0.15;
$fa=1;
$fs=$preview ? 2 : 0.5;

// parameterization here
od=240;  // outer diameter of telescope
lh=30; // lip height
wall=2; // wall thickness
io=25; // inner overlap hcnaged from 9 to 25

module bottom() {
    tube(id=od-2*io, wall=wall+io, h=wall, anchor=BOTTOM) {
        position(TOP) tube(id=od, wall=wall, h=lh, anchor=BOTTOM);
        position(BOTTOM)
        rot_copies(n=8)
        rotate_extrude(angle=10) left((od)/2+wall) rotate(90) trapezoid(h=wall, w2=wall*0.5, ang=[90, 45], anchor=BOTTOM+LEFT);
    }
}

module top() {
    tube(od=od+6*wall+2, id=od-2*io, h=wall, anchor=TOP) {
        diff() {
            position(TOP) tube(od=od+6*wall+2, id=od+1+2*wall, h=lh/2, anchor=BOTTOM);
            rot_copies(n=8)
            tag("remove")
            {
                rotate_extrude(angle=11) left((od)/2+wall+0.499) up(wall) square([wall, lh], anchor=BOTTOM+RIGHT);
                poly = [[-0.01,-0.01], [0,2*wall], [wall, wall], [wall, 0]];
                spiral_sweep(poly, h=wall, d=od+1+2*wall, turns=0.06, spin=-16);
            }
        }
    }
}

module cover() {
    let(d=od+7*wall+3.5, t=wall/2, h=5) {
        cyl(d=d, h=t, anchor=TOP) {
            position(TOP) tube(od=d, wall=t, h=h, anchor=BOTTOM);
        }
    }
}

module storage_cover() {
    let(d=od+3*wall, t=wall/2, h=5) {
        cyl(d=d, h=t, anchor=TOP) {
            position(TOP) tube(od=d, wall=t, h=h, anchor=BOTTOM);
        }
    }
}

bottom();

left(od*1.2) top();

right(od*1.2) cover();

fwd(od*1.2) storage_cover();

​

https://preview.redd.it/o1t6fswalirc1.png?width=1307&format=png&auto=webp&s=a2a294d5a3f85cf3268927f4fcb1f57224908b09

​

​

https://preview.redd.it/ojn7kowclirc1.png?width=1500&format=png&auto=webp&s=90b188d7869a028dbb7fe4664f59e5e3f27f9e2d

Hello, Not sure if this is even modifiable, but can the moment when the inactive nozzle begins to heat up before switching materials be changed?

I’m often printing with breakaway material and the material begins to ooze when the nozzle is being heated up before switching the material. This often leads to bits of material ending up on/in the printed object. These bits are sometimes blown away by the part cooling fan or end up all over the place by themselves, sometimes bits get laminated into the print by the primary material and cause defects if that happens on the outer surface. Sometimes they get trapped in the cavities of the infill and make a quiet rattling noise when shaking the part :D.

So my idea was that it should just begin to heat up right before switching even if that means it has to pause for a moment to reach temperature so it can drop the oozed material to the prime tower.

The material is freshly dried over night at 60°C so moisture shouldn’t be the issue here.

Hey guys, I have a UM3e thats been a workhorse for a number of years. I purchased this printer to stsrt a prototyping lab at my last job and we worked this printer hard. I was eventually gifted this printer when we upgraded the lab and near the end, I started to notice quality issues when printing curves. Now those issues are showing on straight runs as well. I know this isnt pure ringing (I had that pretty well dialed out) but its likely machine wear. I know I can replace belts and start shot gunning parts at it as its likely slop, but I figure this is a fairly common sotuation on aging machines and thought some might have some insight on where to start. Thanks guys!

I'm kind of at my wits ends. My problems started the other day when a colleague and I were working on a print that was giving us all kinds of issues. Essentially it kept pausing every few minutes, saying 'material is empty' when it wasn't. Ultimately I realized that opening the feeder to clean the knurled wheel greatly helped the problem, there was a bit of material embedded in the wheel surface and after I cleaned that off, the printer was able to print without pausing for much longer, like 90 minutes instead of 5. But it eventually happened again. We eventually realized that the flow sensor was disconnected (not sure how but...).

Upon reconnection, we started getting error ER35 (there is an I2C communication error -> reboot). Rebooted several times, but nothing helped, we could not get into the printer menus. I disconnected the flow sensor and everything was fine apart from the "flow sensor is not working properly". So I contacted support, I suspect the flow sensor has gone bad, but I was hoping that by disabling the sensor in the settings we could at least keep printing.

So I did that (disabled the flow sensor) and tried another print, unfortunately it seems like it's going to work at first: the bed warms up, raises up to touch the print heads in several places like it usually does, and then when it comes time to start the print, the bed just stays a few inches below the print heads instead of going in contact, the countdown starts but nothing happens, and after like 30-60 seconds I just get a message "an unspecified error has occurred in the motion controller, restore to default settings", with no other choice but to reboot.

I tried restoring to default settings as instructed, I tried firmware 8.2.0, I tried 8.3.1, I checked the connections to the print head (fine), but nothing helps... has anyone ran into this issue before? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

We've had this printer for about a year and a half if it helps, I've had an issue with the flow sensor being disconnected before (I really don't understand how that happens - once I can understand, maybe in shipping or something, although it only happened after like a year, but twice?), but just reconnecting it did the trick and then it worked fine for a while afterwards.

My S5 consistently gets an error that print head height difference exceeds the expected value. I have tried manual levelling, lowering the build plate, and a factory reset. I also did the levelling sensor test which had good values. Any suggestions on what the issue could be?

https://reddit.com/link/1biozt7/video/dfspcqp9mbpc1/player

Anybody know where I can find these? I tore my last one. And now I'm afraid to use the machine and get it knocked up.

I ordered from an online source but they were back ordered.

I've run this file millions of times with identical settings. Nothing has changed. This kind of failure I generally get when I forget to put on a silicone sock, but that's not the issue this time

Has anyone tried increasing the default print speed on an Ultimaker 2? We are currently running at 50 mm/s and are wondering what will happen if we try to increase that. What has your experience been. Asking for a school that is looking to increase print capacity drastically in the next year. Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi everyone,

I'd like to share a fun project I worked on during my lunch break today: designing a 3D printable vase with the help of AI!

AI and 3D Modeling:
While AI can't directly generate 3D models on its own yet, it can be an incredible tool for assisting in the design process.
In this case, I worked with Gemini Advanced to use OpenSCAD as its output. OpenSCAD is software where you create 3D objects through coding.
This collaboration allowed me to create this 3D-printable vase design, I also added an Adhision Torture Test to it while I was working on it!

My Experience with Gemini:
It was fascinating to teach Gemini about 3D modelling concepts. I began by prompting it to generate a simple 3D-printable vase, which initially produced some... interesting but failed results!

To help guide it, I shared an old vase-like OpenSCAD project I created in school back in 2008 and had Gemini analyze the code. With that knowledge, I went to a new prompt, and this time the results were much closer to what I envisioned, even incorporating some of my code I had it Analyze!
This is something I was unable to reproduce with ChatGPT. for example to have it teach something on the go and use it in a new prompt!

The Future of AI in 3D Design:
I believe the future of AI in 3D modellingg is incredibly exciting. As AI continues to learn, it will become an even more powerful tool for quickly iterating designs and exploring creative possibilities.

Want to print or play with the file yourself?
MakerWorld
Printables

Feel free to share any thoughts regarding this small project.

I recently resized a model, sliced, and saved it to disk. However, I need to find out the measurements of my resized and sliced model. I reloaded it into Ultumaker but it doesn't display what they are. Is there a way to find this out? Thanks.

I need to preface, because I already know. I know this isn’t the best way to run abrasive filaments. I know I should “just buy an s3”. I know “in the long run “ yada yada. I’m not looking for any suggestions outside of how to make this work. I will not be able to afford or justify ever buying a new printer of this quality, so I need to make this work.

Any tips on how to trick my UM3+ into running a cc print core? I was gifted a UM3+ and purchased a 3d solex hardcore print core as it was listed as working with the um3. I can’t seem to get cura to recognize it or let me print. I know the reason UM doesn’t officially support it is because of the extruders, which I plan on upgrading to bondtech (if anyone wants to say “just save your 300$ toward a new Ultimaker”, don’t lol)

I’d really love to get this thing going, I have a roll of cf nylon I want to start playing with. The printer prints everything else perfectly on an AA core. If the um3 extended had any resale value, I’d contemplate selling for an X1C

Hello,
for a project at university, I have to be able to pause or stop an ongoing print using a Raspberry Pi. My first thought was "easy just splice into the filament run-out sensor" but apparently the UM3 does not have one.

Any suggestions besides just cutting the power?

Thanks in advance

Edit: To make it more precise, my project is to have a seperate system, in my case a raspberry pi, monitoring the print using a webcam and an image recognition CNN to detect faults (spaghetti, blobs...).

Should an error occur the printer should be paused/stopped and I have set up a telegram bot to send a message + an image of the fault to whoever is printing atm.

The only missing part is the stop-capability.

My school has 4 printers, two s3’s and two s4’s. On every single one the right print head barely functions or doesn’t function. We’ve tried different print heads, exchanging known working print heads and different materials. Any suggestions to fix this problem?

A charity i work for has both and the connect is quite honestly really bad it prints slower then the 2+, takes ages to turn on need to manually feed filament and the screen while nice having to preview is slow and unresponsive.

One of our school's Ultimaker2 Connect printers seems to have lost its center. I have done a factory default setting restore both on the machine and in Cura, but that didn't work. Nothing in the machine's menus that I could seems to point to a way to solve this problem. Does anyone know how to fix this?

https://preview.redd.it/p6vuahao3umc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb0c79662a8481bea4e6306e75c29f273a6e4ebb

https://preview.redd.it/vghkukao3umc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=18243e83354bd4b9ec39cde59999eafddbb6fa5f

​

https://preview.redd.it/3z76f6d7yqmc1.jpg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b756a9d3bf8374ff7a8e17a3938fb7a9159185a0

hello, I have a problem, I don't know what to do, I need help, I have things to print, it's sitting like this and it doesn't want to heat up, I've had the printer for 2 years and I haven't had any problems

Anyone know where I can download a cura profile for this printer ?

Thanks !

I'm doing a presentation on 3D printing and just noticed that a model printed using a 0.2mm nozzel at 0.08mm layer height uses 20% less filament than the same model printed using a 0.6mm nozzel at 0.32mm layer height.

Can someone explain the mechanics of what is causing this?

Why after the print finishes , print core 1 only pull the filament out of the printcore a couple inches while the other pulls it all the way back to the clamp mechanism?

Every time I get a material error and have to go through a problem solving journey.

HELP! , I mean Hey,

So I have an UMO, (yes I know it is a dinosaur) and I wanted a more stable build plate so i scored an aluminium one for UMO/UM2, expecting it to fit. How naive :)

So i was looking at a lead screw from an umo2, bit it only comes including the stepper motor itself. So a few questionz

1. Do they automatically retrofit or do i need to change the powersuply and other steppers and settings as well?

2. Is there maybe an adapter for the lead screw to change it to a smaller dimension, and then a possibility adjusting the settings in the firmware on the control board itself?

3. does anyone know the specs of the lead screw of the UMO? I cannot find it anywhere..

Thanks!