First off, tons of thanks from all the folks that provided info of all sorts on this post earlier this week. I'm not a pro in this department, never owned an amp head let alone something like this that may be homemade so I appreciate all of the info to the max.

Here's what I know so far...

• Tubes are two JJ 6v6 S and one JJ GL 34 S
• 2 JJ Can Capcitors
• Hammond Manufacturing inductor
• The first photo I brightened, if you look on the far right you'll see a red wine. That's a small fan. Not sure if it works.
  • The amp does power on but I learned it's apparently not great to leave it on for long without it being attached to a speaker.
  • The tubes light up, seem to get warm for the short time I had it on.
• The front controls...
  • A switch for lead and clean
  • Under that is the (I think) instrument input
  • Normal EQ dials and level for lead and clean
  • On the right...
    • Power switch
    • Not sure what the other two switches do
• The back - This is definitely where I'm looking for some more insight.
  • Line In / Line Out?
    • Not sure here, is this maybe the effects loop?
  • Speaker 1 / 2 - 8 ohm & 4 ohm
    • So one of these would be the out to the speaker?
  • Foot
    • I assume an external foot switch between lead and clean
  • 2 Black Knobs
    • 3A - 1/4A - Not sure what these are.

I think that pretty much does it. Someone in the original post mentioned it could be a kit build which seems to make a lot of sense. I don't have a speaker for it yet so I haven't been able to play it but any suggestions on what this thing would require would be much appreciated

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All, I spend a fair amount of time on Discord so I've decided to spin up a guitar related Discord server. The subject matter will be more general guitar and not limited to tube amps, but there are channels dedicated to building and repair as well.

Anyway, if Discord is your thing, feel free to join us over there as well!

https://discord.gg/u49zg6xU

TLDR -- I have a brand new tube amp that started making crackling sounds. Doesn't matter if the volume is all the way down on the amp or the guitar.

I had a fender bassbreaker 15w combo. Would give me lots of recurring problems. Crackling sounds coming through the amp even when volume is down on the amp and/or the guitar. Sometimes these crackles would get worse over time, getting louder and sometimes making a short screech or pop sound. Sometimes followed by a drop in tone or volume. Had it repaired multiple times. I think one time they just replaced tubes but another time they went in and soldered something. Wish I could give more details but I'm not very knowledgeable. Decided to move on to a new amp, sunk enough money into that thing.

Just bought a fender princeton reverb. Brand new, 68 silver face one they're selling right now. Love it, everything else about my rig has stayed the same. I mostly just play at home in my living room. Played it a few days ago with the volume cranked to around 5. After playing that for a bit, now when I turn it down to play at more comfortable volumes, I'm getting the same soft crackling sounds coming through the amp that I used to get on my bass breaker. Not as bad, no pops or screeches, or loss of tone or volume while playing. Surely this couldn't be tubes going bad already? Or something needing to be soldered on a brand new amp? Looking for any insight into what might be going on and what a solution might be. Power supply issue? Any help appreciated

Hi All,

I’ve had a PRS MT15 for the last 4 years or so. Since early 2020.

Whilst it’s great on the cleans and high gain and is loud as hell, good for both rehearsal and gigging.

I have a few problems/issues with it:

• it’s noisy, the FX loop is practically unusable

• it’s not great for picking up electrical noise in general, this has been tested at around 4 different houses and our rehearsal space.

• the cleans are too clean, just a bit too sterile. The EVH has a gain pot for the clean channel, which gives a wider variety of sounds

• the high gain, whilst excellent and brutal, is not nasty enough, it’s too refined if that makes sense. Doesn’t have that “grind”.

I’ve seen some videos comparing the different EVH LBX amps, I’m particularly fond of the stealth. I have a question for anyone that’s had both. The MT15 has been great for me both in rehearsals and live and we all know that the power rating isn’t really consistent with other “15w” amps. However how does the LBX-S match up? I’ve seen a video where somebody says that the earlier LBX or LBX2/3 was ridiculously loud. I know there’s a fix for the MT15 noise issues, swapping the FX loop driver valve for something lower gain like a 12au7. I’m happy working on amps, within reason. I have done before. I just prefer things that work as intended from the start.

Playing at home it seems that the stealth does what I want. Minimal power amp distortion and nice and tight. When I gig though I don’t play anything nearly as heavy and usually a bit more retro, so a little power amp distortion might be sought after. I also imagine that since most venues will have a PA I’ll be fine regardless.

Has anybody gigged with a stealth? My MT15 on 2-3/10 is more than loud enough for rehearsals with the drummer, bass and other guitarist. Has anyone tried this with the stealth? I did see a video where a fellow Brit mentioned that he had gigged with an LBX, however not the stealth, which he has stated was a bit quieter.

Or do you recommend another LBX? The stealth seems to have the best gain and volume tapers from my reading. Also seems better for at home, where the MT15s taper is just wild. Going from 6L6 to EL84 doesn’t bother me.

Thanks for your thoughts.

I'm a little new to working on amplifiers but happened to find two nice Weber Alnico speakers at a pawn shop that would pair well with my AC30. The only problem is that the original speakers are 8 ohm in series and the new speakers are 16 ohm and would need to be in parallel. There's a switch on the back to choose between 8 ohm or 16ohm, but it's mainly intended for use with an external cab that can be plugged in to the back of the amp. The current speakers are connected via four separate wires that go back to a little PCB. Does anyone have any experience doing this with an AC30CC2? Do I need to worry about anything? I found a service manual that references my model but also mentions the TB models. I assume I could just wire W15 and W18 to one speaker, then jumper between the two speakers and leave W16 and W17 disconnected (capped). Does that sound right?

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I've got a Fender 65 PRRI. Bone stock, delivered from Fender about a month ago. Amp is plugged in to what appears to be a grounded socket (I see a ground wire connected to the receptacle, but not sure if it is properly grounded). I've also got a Yamaha THRII30 that I use as a practice amp for late at night since it has a headphone out.

My music room is an upstairs guest bedroom. There's a TV, mini fridge, ceiling fan, and overhead light. There's also a washer/dryer on the other side of the wall, and a kitchen below with a fridge, electric over, microwave, etc.

With BOTH amps, I get really bad humming when playing my SS Tele. Way louder than the regular single coil 60 cycle hum. There is no hum when the guitar volume is turned all the way down, even if I dime the amps. Hum gets louder when I turn guitar volume up. Hum gets progressively worse with pedals, to the point where using my comp and OD pedals at the same time is almost impossible. Hum tends to go away if I turn away from the amp, and changes in severity depending on where the guitar is facing. Hum occurs with both amps, including the Yamaha even when it is running on batteries and not plugged into the wall outlet.

I moved both amps to another room upstairs. Same guitar, same amps, same pedals, same settings. No hum other than the standard 60hz from the single coils.

Based on the above, I do not think this is a wiring issue. I think the pickups are catching EMR in the air in that room.

My question is what is the best way to locate and eliminate EMR interference?

TLDR: what could go wrong by swapping my 1x12 baffle with a 2x10 and the adding a 2x12 to the party.

A couple months ago I bought a DRRI as a project platform. From the start I knew I was going to hand wire a circuit and replace the PCB. Then I got to thinking about speaker arrangements and because I hate money thought that converting the combo to a 2x10 and adding a 2x12 extension can would be fun.

I intend on using Eminence GA-SC64s all around.

Beyond arguments of “diminishing returns” and the issues surrounding output impedance and extension cabs as a whole. Are there any reasons not to do this?

Can someone help me understand the relationship between the Plate-Plate load resistance and the Primary Winding impedance of the output transformer in an AB Push-Pull context?

For Context, my amp is equipped with 2 6CA7s and a OT with a 5k Primary Impedance, and from my understanding of the power supply i should have around 500V+ supply on B+1 so that should put the plate load resistance around 4K right?

If the 2 Impedances can't be matched which is preferable to have higher? What is the effect of Plate Load resistances lower than the OT impedances and what is the effect of OT Impedance higher than the plate load?

I haven't had a lot of luck finding resources so any clarification would be greatly appreciated.

I'm looking for an attenuator for my Super Reverb reissue, and I have no idea (well, kind of a clue) what to get for it. I was looking at this PS-1 Power Soak by Bugera, but it doesn't have a 2-ohm load input. Is it okay if I use the 8-ohm input? Or are there any other attenuators that would be better? Something under $800 - $1000? Thank you if you respond and help😃

The Hot Rod has been giving me some issues. During a recording session the other day my amp completely broke down. As far as I can tell I completely fried the board. I needed a fair bit of crunch for this particular session and it just couldn’t handle it. I’m getting it repaired, but I wanted to see if anyone had any tips on how to achieve a good level of crunch without melting the board every time I need to push it.

So I've finally decided to give a Marshall a try (fender user and settled on the Origin 50c. Initially, it was nothing but decent review for this amp and the 20c variety but (always inevitably) I came across some concerning information in reference to the 50c having apparently burned up a circuit board when used at the full 50 watts.

The post was from 2018 and it's the only fully documented tale of this that I can find but it at least made me hesitate. Has anyone recently ran across any issues with this as far as overheating goes?

I plan on using this amp for gigs and the 50 watt channel may very well get used regularly in outdoor

Hey all! I've got an Australian Eminar amp from the '70s that needs 220V; my wall voltage is 120. To anyone who converts voltage for an amp, what step-up transformers do you use/recommend? Figured I'd ask here before I go buy the cheapest one at Lowes.