A bit of background, our wifi router recently started acting up, with our various devices remaining connected to the network, but not having internet. I did a factory reset and updated the router's firmware and that mostly took care of the phones, IoT devices, and 2 computers. However, my wife's laptop (Windows 11) remains stubbornly unable to connect to the internet via our home wifi network. It connects just fine when using a phone hotspot, though. I've tried reseting the connection, updating drivers, updating windows, and clearing the DNS cache. Nothing has worked so far.

When attempting to troubleshoot via windows, I received "Can't reach the default gateway" and "No DHCP server found" errors as well. Short of factory reseting the laptop, is there anything else I should be trying?

Hi guys, I can’t get the audio to pick up of me talking. I can hear fine but nobody can hear me. I tried doing the sound test in sound manager but no input is picked up, and when I do the microphone test with the recording it’s a bunch of loud static screeching. Can someone walk me through this please?

I've been using my phone (Oppo A7, Android 8.1.0, ColorOS V5.2, 4G) as a mobile hotspot and tethering it to my Macbook (Macbook Pro mid-2009, El Capitan/10.11.6). It was working fine before. My Macbook was able to connect to my phone's hotspot and I was able to connect to the internet.

But suddenly, it stopped working yesterday. My Macbook can connect to the hotspot, but there's no internet. Strangely, the internet works fine on my phone.

I hadn't changed any settings at that time.

I did try a few solutions, none of them worked:

• Changed DNS to 8.8.8.8 - didn't work.

• Changed DNS to 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 - didn't work

• Changed DNS to 1.1.1.1 - also didn't work

• Deleted all the DNS settings and let my laptop set an automatic DNS - didn't work

• Changed the network location to Automatic - didn't work

• Changed the network location to a specific location - didn't work

• Under TCP/IP - set IPV6 to manual (was automatic) - didn't work

• Set IPV6 to link local only - didn't work either

• Renewed DHCP lease - didn't work

• Turned off wifi on macbook, waited a bit, turned it back on and reconnect - didn't work

• Deleted my phone hotspot and reconnect - didn't work

• Restarted my macbook - didn't work

• Changed the date on my macbook (was already the correct date, but I read on reddit someone had to change the date to get the internet to work) - I changed it to 3 months back, then changed it back to today's date - still didn't work

Checked my phone to see if the bandwidth was restricted. It was not. I had it set to unlimited.

I even tried bluetooth tethering, but it says no network available and my macbook wasn't able to connect to the internet.

I'm seriously at a loss. The internet works on my phone, even while my macbook is connected to it via hotspot. But at the same time, my macbook doesn't have internet.

That said - once my macbook switches to regular wifi (not using my phone), the internet works.

TL;DR:

• Macbook can't connect to the internet when using phone hotspot, but the phone can connect to the internet just fine.

• Macbook connects to internet just fine when using router wifi, but not when using phone hotspot.

I'm so devastated right now. I have a compilation of photos and videos I did for my ex-boyfriend, I lost him 3 yrs ago to suicide. I now have a boyfriend of 5 months and I asked him to help me clean up my MSI laptop because it's running out of space and I wanna download some games. Today, I just discovered that he deleted the entire folder I have with my deceased ex, including the bereavement book I wrote on the time I was grieving him. He then insists my anger to what he's done means I haven't moved on yet. I'm absolutely losing my mind rn because those files mean a lot to me, and while I love my current bf I think I can't move forward with our relationship anymore due to what he's done.

I badly need help to recover these files, but I don't know how to. Can anyone please help?

First of all, Id like to apologize for how computer illiterate i am. I just use mine to play video games, so issues like these have me clueless, and i apologize for that.

Now for the issue, in the last 3-ish months, Ive gotten a BSOD 4 times. Each time stating "MEMORY_MANAGEMENT". The first time it happened I had no clue what it was and my PC restarted just fine, so I didn't look into it. Around a month later, it happened again, I then looked it up a bit and saw people with the same error but I didnt really understand most of it, and I ultimately did nothing. And now, today, it's happened for the 3rd time, and then a 4th time a few hours later, along with my computer being noticeably(i think?) slower.

I did a bit of research and apparently this is something to do with my ram? Correct me if im wrong, please. All i've done so far is run Windows Memory Diagnostic tool, took around 30 minutes, and it said "Your computer has a memory problem." Does this confirm its an issue with my ram? I can provide what event viewer shows for the memorydiagnostic if needed.

My PC is a prebuilt from NZXT and i bought it around a year ago so Im pretty sure im still under their 2 year warranty, so i was gonna email them after I post this.

Once again i apologize for how computer illiterate i am, if you need any more info, ill try my best to provide it.

Thank you!

Edit: automod asked for dump files, and i think i did it correctly? i apologize if not, but heres what i have.

https://www.mediafire.com/file/z7xhbplcxadksrz/Minidump.zip/file

So my PC is pretty basic, it has enough to work a fill my studying needs, it has:

16gb ram 8x2

Intel HD graphics 4k

Intel i7 3770

Motherboard's a DDR3, doesn't support secure boot and the manufacturer only god knows because when I looked at it on msinfo there wasn't anything

The issue started 2 days ago, the Pc just turned off and didn't want to turn on again, found a way to keep it alive and used it till today where it stopped again (1day from "fixing" to stopping again), I believe it's the cable, because depending on the cable position it turns on and stays alive, but it's very specific, if I mess up it turns on for 1 sec and dies, and then there was a moment where even in a good position it'd just not boot, I tried:

Cleaning the ram, didn't fix

Reset bios, fixed but I did CMOS reset on the jumper too, now whenever it turned on it'd boot but wouldn't keep alive, only a few minutes enough to prove it isn't the power supply, before the PC dying I can hear a few electricity popping sounds coming from the PSUs plug, and I believe it's either the pins that are messed up somehow (they look fine), or i have 2 bad cables, I'm praying hard to be the cables because I don't have the money to buy another Power supply right now, anyone can give me some light here? I even tried the thing where you unplug the PC and press the power button for a few seconds but it just doesn't stay alive

So I got a samson G track pro because of good reviews, and it worked great on my old laptop, but I recently got a new laptop and now whener I plug it in it will make all the audio from my computer sound like it's in a bad wifi voice call. Ive heard things about sample rates, and believe me I have made sure the sample rates are the same for both the outputs and inputs. Really desperate here so help is appreciated.

Currently trying to use my Airpods with my PC.

The audio stutters a lot and sometimes, it just mutes itself. I can't get a clear audio at all!

The only time the audio becomes "clear" is if I open troubleshoot sound -> output device and leave the prompt hanging.

It makes the sound "clear" in a way that there are no stutters, but the audio quality sucks so bad its as if I'm using a cheap offbrand earphone way back in the 2010s

I have no problems with the bluetooth connection of my keyboard, mouse, AND my game controllers.

There's simply a problem with the bluetooth audio of my PC and idk how to fix it. Please, help!

Hello everyone,

As the title says, I would like to know where the SSD belonging to the fusion drive is located in my low-end iMac 2017, 21.5 inch.

I am upgrading to an M4 Mac Mini and would like to securely dispose of my computer. I am not particularly tech savvy but I am pretty confident I know where the hard drive is located. Where is the SSD located? Could it be in a chip in the logic board or something?

I have been advised to use apples onboard data overwriting tools but I would also like to take the data storage components out of my iMac.

Any thoughts or opinions are appreciated.

Thanks!

El pasado 31 de enero de 2025, me robaron mi teléfono, el cual estaba vinculado a mi cuenta de Google y configurado como el principal medio de autenticación. Al intentar iniciar sesión en un nuevo dispositivo, se me solicita un código de verificación enviado a mi antiguo número de teléfono, al cual ya no tengo acceso.

Para intentar recuperar mi cuenta, he seguido estos pasos sin éxito:

• Intenté acceder desde mi laptop personal, donde anteriormente ya había iniciado sesión en mi cuenta.
• Utilicé los códigos de respaldo de 8 dígitos, pero aun así me solicita una verificación adicional con mi antiguo teléfono.
• Intenté recuperar mi cuenta usando mi correo de respaldo, pero sigo necesitando la verificación en mi antiguo número.
• No tengo ningún número de respaldo asociado a mi cuenta que pueda usar para recibir el código.
• Probé con las opciones de recuperación en Google Account Recovery, pero todas requieren acceso a mi número perdido.

Hago este comunicado para saber que debería hacer ahora puesto que aún haciendo los procesos que Google me recomienda sigo sin poder iniciar sesión; si conocen algún correo de soporte de Google me ayudaría mucho.

Gracias.

Hello, Lately when I boot up my computer (I shut it down from windows each night) it's not taking me to the log in screen. I have 3 monitors and the main one turns on but it's just the glowy black screen like it's on but not showing anything. The other 2 try to turn on and just say they're not connected to anything and go back to sleep which normally yes they don't fully turn on until I'm logged in. But the main screen never goes to the log in. But if I shut the computer down (from the tower) and restart it, it will go to the log in screen like normal. It's been doing it every day when I first boot it up. Not sure what to try. Thanks for any help! Also wasn't sure if I should put this under hardware or software issues

So I've been having this issue for a while, and it seems to happen the most on youtube. I'll be watching a video or scrolling through shorts and my tab will crash(sometimes the entire browser crashes). It happens on other sites as well and seems to be pretty random. Games will also crash every now and again, but it's far less frequent.

I've tried updating drivers, doing a fresh install for windows, and even swapping to an entirely different set of ram.

GPU - Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4080 Gaming OC 16G

CPU - Intel Core i9 13900k

MOBO - ASUS ROG Strix B760-F

RAM - 4x 16 GB Corsair Vengance DDR5 6000MHz

PSU - Corsair RM850x Fully Modular 80 plus Gold

AIO - Corsair iCUE H150i Elite

Any help or suggestions would be awesome.

I inherited an iPad at work, it has an active cellular plan.

If I reset it and sign out of the work account will the plan remain active?

I was watching a YouTube video (while charging) when all of the sudden my screen became like this. https://imgur.com/a/JN2JV1H

I already went through;

• Drivers, all updated.
• Connected to a secondary monitor and it displayed just fine, so it shouldn't be the GPU...
• Also monitor has max 60FPS so I can't exactly adjust it either.

So I'm guessing it's the monitor itself? But why would it all of the sudden break if it was just placed on the table? I've run some troubleshooting with the built in app called Huawei PC Manager and it says that it's all good.

Apart from the bugged out screen, everything else is working fine. Do you think that watching videos while charging may have something to do with it?

Maybe all the accidental drops during the years finally caught up... (to reiterate I was just watching videos until monitor went crazy, didn't drop it this time.)

This laptop also had a history of the monitor just refusing to turn on, I passed it through a repair place and they just said it was a loose cable issue, but also charged me $100 for the initial diagnosis payment... Is that normal in Canada?

That's why I'm asking through here to find another solution or maybe just opening the machine myself because I genuinely don't have the resources to send it for a repair place 😔

Thanks you all in advance.

Laptop flickering while gaming. Specs- rtx 3050ti I7 11800H 16gb ddr4 I can't upload the video of it but if anybody has a suggestion for what it might be please tell me.

Hello 👋, not sure if this is the right place to ask this. I had to block my ex on my gmail due to almost sending him accidental pictures. I removed and blocked him but he is still the first name suggestion when I need to send a photo. How do I actually remove his email from even being suggested?

I also keep getting security codes sent to both my personal emails even though I changed my password multiple times. Any suggestions on what to do next?

I don’t know what to do anymore and I hate technology 🥹 any help will be appreciated.

The audio in the car is off by like 2 seconds or even less just enough to mesw with the video

Anything to be done

I finally finished building a new desktop from scratched, and everything is working perfectly except for that fact that my internet speed just completely drops off after an hour (in use or not). I'll have 220 mbps down, and then it will drop to 4 mbps down. What's particularly weird is if I disconnect and reconnect my wifi, it'll start over at the fast speed. The wifi is a 5 GHz connection.

The board I'm using is an X870E AORUS ELITE WIFI7, and I downloaded their wireless drivers from their website. I've tried reinstalling them but it doesn't seem to help. I can only assume there's some sort of bottlenecking going on but I don't think it's on my router because other devices run fine.

Any ideas as to why this is happening?

I have a B550M-C mobo that will not detect any SSDs in any SATA port. I am able to detect and use an HDD. I tried plugging both SSDs into the same port the HDD was in, using the same power cable, and they are not detected. I've tried all 6 SATA ports on the board. Windows is installed, and working, on an M.2 SSD. One of the SSDs I am testing works fine on another rig. The other one is new and untested.

BIOS Version P 1.60

SSDs Tested:

PNY CS900 500Gb

TEAMGROUP T-FORCE VULCAN Z 1TB

I have been struggling with the issue of having fast connection speed on my phone (300mbps download and 260mbps upload) but having super slow connection speed on my PC (46mbps download and 24mbps upload) can anyone help??? Thanks

I have no clue what happened after installing new ssd, laptop not booting at all

My friend's phone suddenly encountered a storage issue where the system took up 235GB, even though it hadn't even reached half of its capacity before. When we checked the storage, it showed that 252GB out of 256GB was used, but ZArchiver displayed no files. Additionally, hidden photos are not showing, and games keep crashing for no apparent reason. He's worried that restarting the phone might cause it to stop working, just like what happened to his previous device.

I bought a new nvme, my mobo has 2 slots. If I plug both of them in, install windows and boot with the new one. Is it possible to access the old one to transfer files over? (Just files, not os)

One of the smaller networks I manage have had three NICs fail within two weeks. They are all integral to the motherboard. I know the desktops were all put into service around d the same time 3-4 years ago. Driver updates and uninstall/reinstalling drivers don’t solve the issue. The ethernet cables are functioning properly.

Is it odd that this may fail so closely in time?

This is my first time crimping Ethernet cables and I'm a bit confused by the order of wire colors on the RJ45 connector. I understand that they are ordered in a way to reduce noise, however I'm tempted to just use the twisted pairs in order to simplify things. The longest run for the cameras will be 250ft and 100T.

Why do I need to follow a standard like 568A/B? If it terminates the same way on both ends would I run in to issues?

Hey guys first post here

So after many years I charged and old iPad (The first iPad Air around 2014), everything was fine I had access to everything and I could play a few games however it kept Saying to introduce my iCloud password and when I did, it didn’t accept it (1st problem) so I decided to delete all data of the iPad to have it as new, as I didn’t care for the Info in it, however when I did it the apple logo with a loading bar came up but 8 hrs passed it didn’t even move a bit, so I got frustrated and restarted the a iPad during that process (as nothing happened anyway) and now Everytime I charge it or turn it on its in the loading screen with the bar so I really don’t know how to fix it or how Can I stop the process and have it as “new”

Thanks for your attention.

If I have one old HDD drive in my PC that already has Windows 10 installed, can I also install Windows 10 on the second SSD drive? I mean that each drive will have a separate system installed and I will be able to choose which system/drive I want to start from the BIOS. Thanks in advance for your help

My laptop is configured with a 3070. I have tried to reinstall the latest nvidia drivers (572.16) after running DDU and it still results to the same problem, I've rolled back to the previous NVIDIA driver (566.36) ever since.

How's the driver working for everyone else with similar configurations?

So im trying to do a clean install of Windows on my new mini PC, the current setup I have to do it is:

USB with Ventoy installed and several Linux distros + Windows 11 version 24h2 which I downloaded the .iso from Microsoft website and added to the USB.

Another USB which I downloaded the drivers for my PC from the MinisForum website (I have the zip file saved and I also extracted the zip file on to aa separate folder on the USB.

So I suspended bitlocker so I could boot from USB, booted from the ventoy USB, chose Windows v24h2, went through the language and keyboard options, then got to "where do you want to install Windows" screen showing all my partitions (there were 4 partitions on the PC & 2 on the USB, it had the Windows partition selected already so I went with that one).

I clicked install and it started the process, then when it restarted it was at the ventoy menu so I chose Windows v24h2 again and it said looks like you've initiated Windows upgrades to continue remove installation media & press enter OR to do a clean install click NO. I clicked no as I want to do a clean install but then it just went back to the same "Where do you want to install Windows" screen I already saw before. Essentially if I keep doing this it will just keep looping so I got back to the remove installation media and press enter screen and did that. Which worked and I got to the screen where I need to connect to the internet or install my drivers. I installed the drivers, it restarted then got back to connect to internet screen where I did the oobe\bypassnro cmd so I could set up a local account.

Anyway my question is did I do a clean install of Windows or was I supposed to delete all the partitions and then run the install?

First of all, the cables are ok, the ports are ok. I checked connecting the PS4 to another monitor, everything is ok. I checked the TV HDMI ports plugging in my PC, everything works correctly.

But when I try to use my PS4 on that TV, it either says "no signal" OR it picks up something and it's just a blank, black screen. I've used this TV to play PS4 for a couple of years, never something like this had happened. I tried EVERYTHING I could find online, the HDPC (or however it was called), RGB limited, auto and full, safe mode, resolution changes, factory reset TV, power cycle both things.

It's a Philips 32PHD6825/43

Please help, I'm at my wits end.