There's a lot of pinecil replacement tips out there but I've had a streak of bad luck with ones from amazon. Does anybody here have links to known good replacements?

Thanks

For the right 10 I used additional flux, hence the mess I will have to clean up. I can already see how most of them aren't shiny so, cold joints?

Also, hows my tip care?

Hi I'm having trouble desoldering and old ps5 board. I have some experience on wiring but pretty basic stuff so kind of a noob.

I'm trying to change out the potentiometer on my ps5 controller because of stick drift since I have so many and tired of buying new.

Watched a bunch of vids online and followed all the steps but my troubles come from desoldering the old stuff and actually getting the old potentiometer out. https://i.imgur.com/AzzR61n.jpeg

The wick I have doesnt seem to absorb the solder even after adding flux, new solder and applying heat over top while its melted. Idk what I'm doing wrong. I'm practicing on an older board but to no avail. Any suggestions what I can do to make this come out easier??

Hello everyone, the charger of my laptop did not properly anymore. I suspected a loose connection in the last piece of the cable so I cut that piece out and wanted to solder the cable back to the board. Now the charging cable does not charge at all. Does someone have an idea how I could have messed up? The 3 cables are definetely in the same spot they were in before. Any help is appreciated.

https://preview.redd.it/iykb01m40g8e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f387ea292a9792077eafce3978f90da32b83a647

Hi, I've been using a small wooden chair as my soldering table, and I solder with lead solder. Recently, my friend stood on the chair to paint the ceiling. The chair has tiny lead solder droplets and probably some lead dust since I keep my solder there all the time. I'm worried that when he stood on the chair with socks and then walked around, he might have spread lead contamination to the floors. I have children, so I'm concerned about their safety. Would a robot vacuum be a good solution for this?

So, my friend told me to please check his jbl speaker, I have found a capacitor very fucking cooked, so I was wondering if there is anywhere board schematics of the jbl micro wireless. I can’t find it , btw it is a capacitor connected to pin 4 (GND) of usb b (5v 2A) can I put a typical capacitor there ? Or should I find a broken board and take it ?

just today (12/22/2024) my soldering iron shows this error after a few minutes of normal operation then it goes away when i unplug it and plug it back in it keeps going back

the error is just "F - E" in the LCD screen of it

can somebody help??

fyi my usual set temp on the iron is 450C and i only use it for a pretty short period for simple reflow jobs on solder points or soldering wires together.

Hello,

I have soldered some jumper wires to solder pads on a matrix, but the jumper wires are one of those cheaper ones that are quite brittle.

The solder job is good, but I’m going to ship my little arduino nano that has jumper wires plugged into it and soldered onto a matrix to a friend in the mail and I’m scared the wire will rip.

My question is: what can I put on top of the soldered spot and also cover the visible wire that will keep it down and protected?

I googled and everything I found was conductive.

I thought of silly putty or even just regular tape, but looking for something a little more… reliable.

I've got a power probe butane soldering pen I use at work and I've noticed the angled tip has started to be eaten away. I've had the pen for maybe a month

i’ve been trying to desolder the old joysticks in my controller and put hall effect sticks in but i can’t get all of the old solder out of the solder pads. I’ve used a solder sucker also desoldering wick and flux but i still can’t get all of it does anyone have any advice for me?

Hello All

I read the rules so hopefully this post is appropriate (please direct me to the correct subreddit if not).

Was working on switching out my joysticks for my ps5 controller. Very new to soldering as you will see in my photos, but hopefully there is a knowledgeable soul here who can assist me in diagnosing my issue.

Long story short, when desoldering I decided to add a bit (or possibly too much) flux and some of my own lead-free solder to the through-hole contacts (14 contacts per joystick) and began to heat them using a heatgun (at around 1000 degrees F). The joysticks eventually came off, but not without a fight. Understandably, the board became extremely hot. I tried to cover all parts I was not trying to get hot with some aluminum foil - call it a novice tactic.

I'm wondering if heating up the board using this method may have damaged other components on the board.

I tried to clean up as much flux as I thought was necessary, however I have a feeling there is still an ungodly amount still on the board.

Either way, I soldered on the new joysticks and reconnected all ribbon cables and closed the controller back up. Pressing the power button now does nothing. When I plug the controller using USB-C, the orange light only blinks twice then nothing.

Simply looking for advice on how to troubleshoot this issue from anyone who's knowledgeable with these devices. I'm sure the device is no longer working due to my shoddy soldering work, but could have been due to too much heat dissipating on the board for too long and damaging other components.

https://preview.redd.it/ojm5fqt5f98e1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ccdc44795b140f940dbf9eaacc2d4af43efa5476

https://preview.redd.it/m51jlfy6f98e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba0595b7828c5e68b44df93ce2993a11569a1198

This audio looper went 'bang' on its previous owner, and much magic smoke was lost, that day.

It continued to go 'bang' on me, and I find at least one failed component but, are there others?

My questions are in the images but, given that R4 is 7.68 KOhm, and R3 is 4.99 KOhm, can R2 really be as low as 3.2 Ohm? Or, is R2 as fried as it looks, heavily impaired but, gives consistent meter readings?

Is it safe to assume that the exploded box is another tantalum resistor?

Do you have any tips for this scenario?

Finally, any info you might have, i would appreciate, particularly - does the fact that the explosion comes after the bridge rectifier tell me anything useful, with regard to the cause, and the likelihood of surrounding chip failures?

So I've bought this TS101 set which included a b2 and bc2 tip. After I inserted the tip and clicked the A Button to heat the tip up, the temperature rapidly went up to about ~400C. After that it stopped heating and showed me "No Tip". I tried the same with the other tip and the exact same thing happened. I tried cleaning the contacts and reinserting them but I couldn't get it to work again.

Did I just - perhaps accidentally - brick both tips by using them wrong way or was I just unlucky with both tips? I also tried upgrading the stock firmware and using IronOS. But my tips aren't getting recognized anymore. The resistance reading also just shows "--".

So I visited the junkyard yesterday and found a bunch of hakko FA-430 fume extractors, apparently theyre used in soldering procedures to extract the fumes. They come with a HEPA filter but I think no plastic tube.

I checked their price and seem way to expensive, I was wondering if these are obsolete at all? Maybe I repurpose them for a diy soldering station, or even for my arc welding needs. Or even Ebay them.

What do you guys think?

https://imgur.com/a/j6W5ecK

Pretty much what the title says. Honestly I bought a cheap little solder station just to give it a try (I know I should have a better one) but if I end up liking this or wanting to continue I plan to invest in it.

I’ve got two broken controllers (GameCube and Xbox) I plan to use to practice desoldering and soldering on as my plan is to eventually be able to mod my own controller but also wanting to expand to maybe more?

I ended up buying the flux gel (10cc) and a desoldering pump.

I believe the little kit I have comes with unleaded solder and I know leaded has a lower melting temp than unleaded as well but again not really trying to pump too much money into stuff until I’m sure I wanna continue this as a hobby.

Any and all advice/videos/references are appreciated!

Hi, I have to resolder a thermal fuse which originally used a low temp 90°C solder. When it got too hot he solde melted and the fuse was "blown", but after hours on google I haven't found a single company selling 90°C solder. Have any of you used a 90C solder before?