Latitude: 44 degrees north.

Most sites about solar insolation focus on photovoltaics, not windows / vertical surfaces.

Most sites assume a tilt of 0 (horizontal) or a continually optimized tilt. They calculate the daily average by dividing the annual by 365, but solar heat in the summer won't help me in winter so I need the insolation for ... let's say around 180 days from Nov 1 to April 30.

Where can I find solar insolation for windows for November to April (when solar heat is helpful and when trees are bare)? Ideally considering clouds.

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(The full heating season is longer, but if the outside temp is 3 degrees colder than the desired inside temp, and windows heat my house by 6 degrees, only 3 of those are helpful. Also, I have big trees outside my windows so when there are leaves I get near-zero direct insolation.)

We want to get a battery contract signed before the end of the year in case the renewable energy tax credit goes away for the 2025 tax year. We've done a lot of research this year and feel confident about our choice. However, we would like a third party to look at the contract and the proposed battery system to make sure its solid. We'd be buying them from the company that installed the solar year before last (just before we bought the house), and their recommendations lined up with what our research had us thinking. But having a knowledgeable expert's eyes on this would be reassuring. Anyone done this and have pointers on how to find such a person? Thanks!

As the Title says, I have been in the market for a while, but it seems most of the companies I deal with are either Sketchy or just flat can't be trusted, I need recommendation for companies you have dealt with that can be trusted in Illinois.

Hello everyone,

So, I plan on getting solar, but I was wondering if the tax credit could be split between me and my Fiancé (not getting married this year). Both of our names are on the home, the electric bill is under her name, but the loan would be under my name. Would we be able to split the tax credit even though her name isn't on the loan?

Side notes not sure if it makes a difference. She has to sign off on some of the paperwork since the electric bill is under her name.

Hey r/solar community! After 10 years in the solar industry, I wanted to share some quick tips and considerations for anyone thinking about solar. This is intentionally meant to be less technical, because honestly some folks just overthink it.

Note: These are focused on residential/commercial setups (not RVs or other niche scenarios). Here's what you should think about before diving in:

1. Do you use electricity?

The more you use, the more you might benefit from solar. The whole concept is about energy offset, or, "Can I beat the utility at its own game and produce my electricity for less?"

That said, cutting down on usage and making energy efficiency improvements is always a win. Check your electric bill—1+ years of data gives a solid baseline.

2. Do you own a property with roof or ground space for panels?

Think of each 3'x5' rectangle as one panel. Homes typically need 10-50 panels depending on energy use and available space. There are many design tools the pros use for this type of analysis and can vary by location, roof direction/tilt and shade. Northern hemisphere South facing is great, southern hemisphere north facing is great.

3. Are you staying put for the next 3-5+ years?

Solar is a long-term investment, so some stability helps maximize benefits.

4. Is your roof in good condition?

Ideally, it’s less than 20 years old and structurally sound. Bonus points if your building isn’t ancient (50+ years).

5. Do you have space for equipment?

You’ll need a bookshelf-sized spot for equipment (inside or outside, usually near your meter or main panel). Don’t stress—there’s almost always a way to make it work.

6. Are there incentives in your area?

In the U.S., there are often federal, state, and local incentives. Check what’s available where you live. For now FED tax credit applies to all of USA

7. Do you like the look of solar?

Most systems look sleek (in my opinion), but aesthetics can be a deal-breaker for a few people.

8. Do you like saving money and having some energy independence?

Adding batteries enhances this even more!

9. Are you ready to put in some effort?

Think of it like buying a car. You’ll need to research, talk to some folks, and possibly deal with pushy salespeople. A little patience pays off but sometimes life is a little busy...

10. Did you score over 5-6 on this list?

If Q1 and Q2 are solid “YES” answers, you’re probably a good candidate for solar.

Next step: talk to local professionals, get 2-3 quotes, and compare your options. Bonus points if you chat with a NABCEP-certified expert or post your quotes here for feedback!

Tl;Dr: Solar is just about having an electric usage that you would like to offset with the sun and some solar panels. Those panels take up space and need to be fed sun just like a plant. But other than that there are great programs, incentives and companies out there to assist in the process. Just like buying a car there are a lot of options out there but at the end of the day the tech is proven and works great. Don't overthink it, get some quotes if you meet the basic criteria and learn more with a local professional.

Hi, I got following installed from RACQ Solar 13.2 kW ( no battery )for 13000 AUD (Post all rebates/discounts).

- Sunpower Performance 7 Panels x 30 ( SPR-P7-440-BLK )

- Sungrow 10 kW Hybrid Inverter ( SH10RS including DTSU666-20 Smart Meter )

- Clenergy 30 x Silver Anodized Racking system

A few of my friends saying that I am getting ripped. One of them got 10kW installed for around 5000 AUD. He went for the cheapest quote. I went for high end products plus reputable company and got it financed over 10 years which I will probably payoff much earlier, just did not wanted to pay cash now. My consideration were ease of adding battery later and maximum usage as me and wife both work from home most of the days plus appliances running mostly in day time. How come some installer can quote that cheap. Did I got ripped ?

We have a micro grid with 85kw of storage, 60ke of inverter and 144 475w panels. This runs a small off grid community from 10-10pm. We have a generator back up. I have been installing systems for the night power on individual houses. I would like to export more power back to the microgrid without messing with current system. My inverters are split phase hybrid and exporting is not a problem. I just want to make sure this will be ok as long as it is same hz. I would like the micro grid system to last longer I. The evening so would like to have a separate inverter and storage bank to export. Is there anything else I would need? It is similar to an exporting to a normal grid. Appreciate any feedback.

Summit Solar quoted and installed a 5.7 mw system (Enphase inverters), at my home in Chicago in Spring 2020. I took a loan out with Mosaic that I am paying down. Fast forward to today and my system is averaging 4.5 mw a year (~21% less than quoted).

Summit solar was purchased by Titan, who then went out of business. I have emails into Summit, Titan, Mosaic, Enphase but so far I have not been able to get anyone to help me check my system for performance, or help to get compensated for the underperformance. Mosaic is saying I am on the hook for the full loan no matter what.

Anyone else have this issue or a resolution course of action they have found that works?

I am calling lawyers now as well who might be able to on my case and I perhaps we can join as a class action here?

I just moved in to at house where they is Solax Solar.

When trying to setup the app and I scan the QR code, I get this error.

https://preview.redd.it/tpvdr38a4p4e1.jpg?width=1127&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=453afa5b1996fc2495cfc3009f0bdb10095cb6c1

Someone tried this before and what did you do? Factory reset the wifi dongle?

Hi,

Has anyone used On Point Solar (out of Arizona) and been able to communicate with them?

I purchased what has turned out to be a very expensive solar system from them through a solar sales company (big mistake). It turns out that the sales person never told them a lot of what I wanted. That same sales person thinks my works correctly and is doing me a favor every time he attempts to contact them for me or help me out. Originally he acted as a gatekeeper but I’ve learned he since cut ties.

For some background, I have a SolarEdge inverter that was installed by a now defunct company. After net metering pretty much disappeared in Texas, I ultimately added another SolarEdge inverter and a FranklinWH battery.

Especially with my SolarEdge inverter (they only work with an installer and none were local), I’m reluctant to void my labor warranty with them. The only reason I’m considering options is that my FranklinWH battery has been guaranteed to be fully supported as long as I use an authorized provider.

Anyone had any similar experiences? Or suggestions?

I got a great system installed in early 2023. Got a loan from Goodleap until I could pay off complete in march of 2024. Subsequently I paid it off as planned. They charged me $234.50 to file with recorders office to remove the lien. I finally paid this fee in May 2024. They send me a pay off letter.

Fast forward to this week. I put in to have a small line of credit taken on the house. My bank tells me Goodleap still has a lien on the property. I confirm with recorders office this hasn’t been rectified. I called GL customer service and they tell me there is nothing they can do immediately but that I could send that payoff letter to recorders office and get lien remover (which is not true) so I said please refund my $234 as I will be doing what I paid GL to do. They said they can put in a ticket but that’s all. I ask to transfer me to the correct department. They said they don’t have phones in that department so they couldn’t. I talked with supervisor. They said the same thing. He put me on hold and then disconnected with me.

I was very polite but firm the whole time. They were polite also, but with not conclusion they knew I wasn’t going away.

We all know solar industry has some bad players. That said I don’t think GL was trying to do anything directly malicious but I believe their systems in place don’t have customer focus. Please be aware of this if you enter into contract with them and check everything if you are currently working with them.

Existing 4.84kw, 11 - 440w panels with 3.8kw SolarEdge HD inverter. Would like a battery for use during outages. The company that installed the solar quoted a Qhome energy system for $18,750. The rep said that California doesn’t allow islanding during outages so the even with the battery the solar will still not operate with the grid down. Is that correct? Doesn’t seem right to me.

Location Playa Del Ray, CA

My understanding is I can just connect 1 live wire and ground wire from the inverter to have a 230V. Any information is appreciated. Thank you.

Just passed my final county inspection on my install, 42 Jinko 425W panels, Sol-ark 15K, 3 EG4 indoor 14.3 KWh batteries. Currently using and storing with no grid sell until I get my PTO from the power company which is in progess.

For anybody on the fence of DIY, just do it---break it into small pieces. planning, drawings, purchasing, permits etc.... It did take me since september but I was not focused on it full time.

I'm am in the USA and for people that feel unsure of their mechanical/electrical ability you can find the same subcontractos that do work for the door knockers and other solar companies that have 1 employee. I found an installer that charged $75 a panel labor, that included getting all the wiring to the drop for the inverter.

I used https://www.opensolar.com/ for my initial panel layout after some research on solark and other sites for the size I wanted, then a company call https://ecuip.com/ for the stamped engineering drawings to submit for my permit.

I used the free racking BOM calculator from https://www.ironridge.com/ to get my bill of material for racking. The other companies have simialr free tools.

I used https://www.greentechrenewables.com/ , https://www.soligent.net/ , https://www.cityelectricsupply.com , and https://signaturesolar.com/ for components.

Soligent will let you buy upto $5k a day without an account as a walk-in. I did not buy a DIY kit and saved a bit more and got exacly what I wanted.

All-in including the battery storage Im at roughly $1.4 per watt using 17.85KW before 30% federal credit. Lowest estimate for not DIY I had was $1.99/watt without storage after the credit. I have verifyed all my manufacturer warranties are valid even with DIY.

feel free to message if you need some pointers in the process to motivate you

I am trying to build a solar car battery maintainer with an existing small ~15w panel. However my MPPT cc uses about 16mA of quiescent current, which drains my car battery even faster (1week?)

Is there a small mppt changer which does not consume more that the panel makes on a cloudy day?

thanks

Does anyone have any experience with their DeltaSolar inverter getting an F52 error?

It's worked fine for the past four years, but errored over the weekend saying 'no grid'. I've reset everything and when I turned it back on it gave me this error. Am I going to end up having to get a new inverter?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hello Everyone,

Alright, I just got PTO about a week ago and of course most days have been cloudy. But the couple that weren't this is what my output graph looks like. As an electrical engineer this doesn't look right. This is clipping, right? I'm not a solar expert and the conversion from DC to AC always confused me (I do industrial controls). I'm in northern Illinois and we're in the middle of winter time, sure but this can't be normal. It's a 12.3kW system, and I understand it'll never actually reach 12.3kW but it's maxing out at 3.9-4.0kW when the sun is out. That's only 33%?! I feel like I'm missing out on alot of energy. I called the solar company and the woman that answered was just a call center person reading from a script and I was getting soooo frustrated with her non-answers. She said "it's producing more than you're consuming." and "We have to wait up to 3 months for the system to reach it's full potential..." Like what???

I have 30 panels, 28 on south roof, 2 on north roof (long story). Hanwha Q Cells Q.Peak Duo BLK ML-G10+ 410 and IQ8PLUS-72-M-US. So by my calculations I should be getting somewhere around 28 * 410 * 0.8 = 9.1kW. OK say 70% in winter? That's 8kW. My point is that it shouldn't be plateauing at 4kW in the middle of winter, right? I gotta be missing something here... Could someone please enlighten me??

Edit 1: Alright so I called Enphase this morning. After about 15 minutes of looking around in my account he finally told me that the installer put a current limit on my microinverters of 32A. Which, I'm not sure why, and he wasn't sure either. My panel is 200A and they installed fuses on the outside of the house and used polaris taps on the main wires coming from the meter. Which surprised me but I looked it up and apparently it's a thing so solar systems don't overload the bus bar. Whatever it seems like it's code. But I understood it that if they used polaris taps like that then they wouldn't need any current limiting because there's no risk of overloading the bus bars because the bus bars have literally only the load of the house going through them. Am I wrong? Anyways, he said that in his personal opinion the limiting didn't need to be there but it still didn't make sense because 4kW / 240 = 16.66 amps. So he emailed me all this info and also copied my installer and told me to call them and reference the ticket in the email.

I called my installer and, of course, I got a call center person again who was reading from a script. Which, everytime I call them I just get madder and madder, but I digress. I finally did get her to have a service person call me in the morning. The last time they said someone would call I never got a call. So I asked her to tell me when, she coudn't, I asked her to tell me who, she couldn't....

The Enphase person also told me that I could take some classes, pay an annual fee and become a self manager for my own system. So, I'm going to do that lol.

https://preview.redd.it/jn9mg1isik4e1.png?width=900&format=png&auto=webp&s=43ff7272bfec6c9c18ebdbb7091d3df580f38464

https://preview.redd.it/acm3sg7tik4e1.png?width=377&format=png&auto=webp&s=bce2dec842d424e10b4857f25d1b3bcc75f56238

https://preview.redd.it/x8y5qdptik4e1.png?width=421&format=png&auto=webp&s=58d22850a5947e7ab8756d996667a1c46a3b976d

Trinity/ Sunova install. Has already been inspected and passed. Utility is PPL. In PA.

From inspection to PTO.. how long? Has been 2 weeks almost. New meter isn't installed yet either.

TIA.

Recommendations for backup batteries? Need between 30kw to 40kw. Currently has REC CELL 400w solar panels Enphase micro inverters are being used. What is the best product for me? Not sure what else I need to provide here.

Greetings! New to the sub.. looking for some outside perspective. I have searched and read a few threads regarding this issue but have not yet found a solution. Please excuse formatting as I’m on mobile… and a big thanks in advance. So, I have a rather large grid tie 24.5 kW system I installed myself. System was professionally designed by my supplier, ground array installed by me (licensed contractor - I was able to do the interconnection application) and the final hookup was done by licensed electricians. I have three SMA 7.7 grid tie inverters. In full sun the third inverter in the string drops out on grid Overvoltage. I have submitted multiple tickets with my utility over the last 6 months, they come out that day - test voltage and tell me it’s my system. Disconnect my array and grid voltage is right where it should be (122/244 VAC). With the array connected, in full sun they read 126/252 VAC - that’s with only 2/3 of my inverters producing. SMA says they can relax the settings but I will lose my UL certification, and my utility apparently does not want to re-tap my transformer… I even paid for a new dedicated pole pig. So, my next thought - I see solar duty buck/boost transformers. Anyone have any experience with these? I’m thinking I buck the 100 amp line to my array to drop the voltage the inverters see by 5%. Im finding there is a lack of info on this solution, so figured I’d pick some brains here. Any other ideas for me? Thank you!!!

Like a real life example:

The project is worth 135K

The federal tax credits show 40K

State tax credits show 34K.

So how exactly does that work? Why does the bank assume the tax credits will be applied for the first 18 months if someone’s taxes are less than the credit?

I truly do not understand the concept. If it’s not a check. What is it?

State is South Carolina.

My local government is offering "rebates" for solar installations next year to incentivize homeowners to install clean energy. They will pay homeowners up to $5,000 after the installation is complete with proof of a paid contract. When I am projecting the estimated cost of the installation, do I calculate the 30% tax credit on the cost before the local government incentive, or calculate the cost after the $5,000 has been subtracted as in a purchase price reduction? The IRS guidance provided here is not very clear-cut: residential clean energy tax credit FAQ. The city government representative was not sure either and is clearing this up with their legal team, but it could take a while to hear back. Has anyone received a local government rebate and how did you handle the tax credit? Thanks!

I'm trying to buy panels from Alibaba but they all look like scams from what I can tell. What did you buy, or how did you choose?

Edit: I'm in the US.

I have a pair of EcoFlow 110w portable panels connected in series thru a Wanderer to a Bluetti AC200, because the original AC200 needs a lot of voltage. I'm getting the new Bluetti Elite 200 v2. A neighbor is selling his EcoFlow 160w portable panel.

The open voltage of my panels are 21.8 (so 43.6) with 6.5 amps. His is 21.4 volts, 9.6 amps.

Can I simply add the 160 in parallel to my panels to get 480 watts at 65 volts?