/r/SolarDIY
Are you building a solar system for your house? Shed? RV? This subreddit is for you! Discuss your projects, show us pictures, ask for help. Anything DIY Solar!
Welcome to SolarDIY!
SolarDIY is a community to share your ideas, projects, inspiration, and look for advice, ideas, and networking.
We love to see what others have done with solar energy. Have you wired your house with solar panels? Built a solar fountain? Built a solar pool heater? We want to hear about it!
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/r/SolarDIY
3 more panels on the passenger side as well!
When I installed this inverter years ago, I thought it offered some way to give you 1,000 watts during a power outage.
I found the installation manual and it says “pin connector Bat is not used”
Was this feature disabled?
Does a fronius primo require a neutral wire. Old inverter had neutral and ground on same buss bar.
I have a Renogy 200ah lifepo4 battery and am thinking of buying the Renogy 400w portable solar panel suitcase.
(I'm not actually a fan of Renogy but I bought the battery a couple of years ago and these panels seem like the best option for my needs at the moment.)
I read the stuff on the websites and my brain turns to mush. Could you help me out with an MPPT rec that works with both of those? Links to both in the comments.
Thanks!
Recently I had to replace the battery that came with my starter system, I won't say what precisely happened to it but let's just say that.. umm.. it wasn't pretty.
Right now I replaced it with a 12v 280ah battery but recently a coworker of mine suggested I use a 24v 100ah and another coworker (my boss actually) told me to use a 48v 50ah.
Thing is, and this my ignorance talking, the last two feel like they would provide less capacity than the 280 so I need some help understanding the differences here.
I want to build an off grid solar system for my shed. I have 0 experience building solar systems.
I'm a electrical/solar newbie planning an off-grid, grid-backup installation. I intend to use an off-grid solar inverter, likely a single EG4 12000XP (once it’s released), along with battery backup (around 42.6 kWh) and a PV array of approximately 21-24 kW. My house has 400 amp service, which is divided into two 200 amp panels. There are critical loads on both panels, so I want to have the solar system power both panels. I don't have a main service breaker for the 400 amp service inside the house; the meter is about 300 feet away and may have a breaker. My actual loads are significantly less than 400 amps, and the 12,000W to 16,000W AC output from the 12000XP inverter should be sufficient for ordinary usage.
I do not currently plan to sell any PV power back to my utility company. Being in New York, I expect my PV generation to be under 70 kWh per day. My home is all-electric (with heat pump HVAC and geothermal systems, an induction range, a heat pump hot water heater, and an electric dryer) and I use about 25-40 kWh each night just to charge an EV. Therefore, for most of the year, the PV power generated each day will likely be mostly consumed by powering the house and recharging the batteries. My monthly consumption is around 2,000 kWh. Unless my consumption decreases drastically or I double the size of my PV array, I will rarely generate excess power and will likely still need grid power at certain times of the day.
Another consideration against a hybrid/grid-tie approach is that our utility company is notoriously difficult to deal with—primarily due to meter reading and billing issues, as well as frequent outages—and they charge various solar-related service fees that would likely negate any benefits of net metering. I aim to minimize my reliance on them as much as possible.
Thus, I want to set up a relatively simple, budget-friendly DIY off-grid system with grid input to power the house during low PV production days and/or high energy usage days. I will be working closely with my electrician and obtaining the necessary permits from the town and county, but this will mostly be a DIY effort.
I want the solar system to power the entire house, with a single solar system, without needing to rewire a critical loads panel. To achieve this, I plan to install a double-throw manual transfer switch upstream of the two 200A panels. One pole will be fed by the grid, and the other by the 12000XP. This setup will allow me to switch to grid-only power if I need to service the inverter, or if I'm finding myself exceeding the output of the inverter. However, 400A double-throw manual transfer switches seem to be extraordinarily expensive, while 200A switches are much more reasonably priced. While the combined circuits may exceed 200A, my actual usage is significantly lower. In this case, will I still need to use a 400A switch? Alternatively, is there a way I can split the 12000XP load output into each of the two 200A panels, and install generator interlocks and 60A breakers on both panels?
To utilize the grid as a backup, I plan to tap into it upstream of the 400A transfer switch using Polaris ports to connect to the grid input of the 12000XP. Are there any other approaches to wiring up the grid input that would work better? I know there are automated products like the EG4 Grid Boss and some other smart panel type products, but they mostly are rated for 200A usage or have a small number of circuits.
In light of all of this, is there any benefit for me to look at hybrid inverters? I have focused on the off-grid segment due to my lack of interest in grid-tie features. I also am wary of inadvertently backfeeding power into the grid without an interconnect agreement in place with my utility company, which I have read is a real possibility with a hybrid, even if set to "zero export" mode.
My understanding is for any decently sized system you would want to go with MPPT and get that extra 25-30% energy, and it's also cheaper If you size the array right regarding the wire size (more volts less amps) and the best bang for your buck regarding the mppt. So why are people using these microinveters on these YouTube whole house install videos?
I know I'll need something like this in the spring, for my travel trailer, but I have no experience with these batteries, so I can't judge if this is a great deal.
It comes to $699 CAD with coupon.
ECO-WORTHY 280AH 12V LiFePO4 Lithium Battery with excellent low temperature performance, 6000+ Deep Cycles BMS, 3584Wh Energy, for Off-Grid, RV, Solar Power System, Home Backup, UPS and Marine https://a.co/d/7h9pf9J
Thanks for educating me.
Yesterday, we viewed a house that had 11 panels fited, when we asked about the solar, the current owner was quite evasive (he was quite evasive about most things tbh). The panels needed a good clean, he said tha he does not have bateries and in summer he just does not have to pay for electricity. He did mention a feed in tarrif - and said the panels have paid for themselves.
Wondering what else we need to be asking when looking at houses tha contain Solar, what paperwork would the vendor need to provide ?
Noticed no netting under the panels, and one did look a bit raised.
Could we add batteries to a older system.
TIA
Whats up all.
Let me start off by saying I am a major noob. I have a piece of land (1 acre) completely off grid in a very hot/sunny place with nothing but a water cistern currently on my property. I would like to start planting plants so that by the time I am ready to build i'll already have some nice established trees.
I would like to install a water pump with drip irrigation system (on a timer) to automate this process. Since I don't have electricity my only option is to set up a solar panel.
I'm currently looking at these two systems - would either of these be adequate for what I am trying to do?
1. System 1 - Flow rate 600L/h (prices in Mexican pesos so it is about 1/20th cheaper than it appears)
2. System 2 - Flow rate 800L/h (prices in Mexican pesos so it is about 1/20th cheaper than it appears)
Also I would like to automate the process by connecting a timer to it. What would I need to connect the timer to the solar & water pump? Is it as simple as just buying a timer and connecting it? If so does anyone have a recommendation for a good timer that fits either of these systems? Also if anyone has a recommendation for something else than these systems I am happy to hear it.
Appreciate all help/input!
I have an EG4 12kpv and an Indoor PowerPro.
I also have two 16s 280ah DIY batteries with 200amp JK-BMS’s.
All 3 are connected to 600amp bus bars THEN from the bus bar to the 12kpv inverter. The Power Pro battery CAN port is connected to the inverter. The two DIY batteries do not have any communication to the inverter or power pro.
My question, what are the best settings for the JK-BMS’s to match the PowerPro so they discharge equally?
Hey guys a friend turned me into this subreddit, hoping I can get some basic advice for a solar setup. I'd like to be able to run my camper primarily off solar. I'm told I want to shoot for at least a 4.5kw inverter. Should I be looking at "grid-ties" (I assume that would be in case I run my batteries dry) or "off-grid" inverters? As for batteries..is there any major difference in buying 4 12v batteries versus a single 48v battery? The 4 battery option seems to be a bit cheaper and I am on a budget (I live in a camper after all lol) Anything else someone new to solar like me should be wary of/considering? Thanks everyone!
I was gifted a 12V 12AH SLA battery made for those "power wheels" cars that kids drive around. Would like to put it to use somehow... Is there a cheap device, or maybe a combination of devices and off the shelf circuit boards that would efficiently charge this battery from a solar panel, have an inverter for AC power* and protect it from over discharging. *how much AC power would I want? Maybe 200W? Thinking I would connect this to something like a ventilation fan or TV or Something that is not critical, I use most days, and not super high load. This project is more for fun than anything, but I love to try to get the most/best use and efficiency out of things.
I have a small workshop solar system running off a 150ah, 12v lithium with a metal casing. My inverter has a grounding connection, which I have ran to a grounding rod.
The other day I slipped while plugging in a quick disconnect on one of my rocker switches. The wire touched the metal case of my battery and made a big arc. It melted the wire, but otherwise was just a bit of a jump scare.
I was wondering if running the ground connection to my batteries casing, in addition to the inverter, would prevent something like this from happening again. It is the largest solid piece of metal in the system, and the one most likely to be accidentally bumped while working on the system.
I wasn't sure if this was a terrible idea. Thought I should check before I just went for it and found out that it was dangerous. It isn't in a vehicle, so the battery itself is not attached to anything common "earth". It is connected to my MTTP charge controller, 12v fuse box, and the grounded inverter.
I appreciate the guidance, thanks!
Is this possible and/or safe? Relatively new to the space so I have tons of gaps in my knowledge.
12V solar array > 36v/48v boost MPPT charge controller > 3000W 38V all in one > 48V server rack battery
Thanks in advance!
[EDIT: If this is no good, what changes in equipment between the solar array and the battery can be made to make this work? The battery and solar array can't be changed yet.]
System Info: 3.6Kw grid-tie, roof mount solar array. 8x ~450w modules on south facing gable of detached garage roof. No battery backup, no shading issues (see image below). My AHJ will require module level Rapid shutdown devices.
I'd like to limit the convo to string inverters only (not micro inverter vs. string)
Options (In ascending price)
Thoughts/Questions
My wife wants to install some fans on a horse shelter. It's just far enough away to make running electricity to it difficult, but not impossible I have no experience with solar, but I figured this might be a good opportunity to learn. "How hard could it be?" I thought.
I've been lurking on this forum for a few days and I'm realizing this is a lot more complicated than I thought. Before I dedicate time to learning how to do all this, I'm hoping you all can help me decide if this project makes any sense for solar.
The goal is to run 2 decently powered fans mostly during the day, but at least some time after sundown. I found fans that say they take 66W to run and let's say for 20 hours a day to be safe.
Does anyone have a very rough estimate for how much a setup at this scale would cost? I'm trying to price it against just getting an electrician to come out to run a wire and hook up an outlet.
Thanks for your help.
I’ve been considering adding DIY solar panels to my house and using an EG4 48v 100ah battery with the EG4 3000-watt inverter with ~1380 watts of solar on the roof. I would have a 30amp reliance controls transfer 6 circuit switch to have only critical loads (primarily focused on the fridge, small chest freezer, and furnace along with some circuits for the Internet in case of a power outage.
When NOT in a power outage, could I leave a few circuits switched to the “generator” setting? So, the solar system would be acting as an auxiliary system (not connected to the grid but just reducing my power usage)? For example, have the fridge always switched to “generator.” Thanks for your insight!
Hey, I need some help. My Uncle has a small hut in the middle of nowhere, and every few days we go there an renovate it a bit. Recently we installed 6 Solar Panels with 120W each, 10 Car-Batteries with 100AH each, and a MPPT Charger with build in 220V Converter (Master-U-Power Hybrid 3000W 24V).
The Batteries are placed in a deep hole in the floor of the hut. Our thought was that they won't get too cold during winter, and not too hot during Summer, because the hut has no insulation.
But now we realized, that the Batteries are about 10°C, which is far from optimal. How do we get the Batteries warmer? We thought of putting them on a heating pat, but how do we prevent the heating pat from using all the power out of the batteries? We would need a heating pad with the size of 1m², which would need about 100-150Watts. But during daytime, we only get about 500Watts of Solar Input, so the pad would need a lot of energy. And during the nights or bad weather, it would drain all of the batteries, so that we would have no energy when we need it. Sometimes we don't visit the hut for over a month, so it has to work automatically.
What would you do? Thanks for reading :)
So i purchased the Victron smart shunt, bluetooth with screen for monitoring.
Now, I have 4s2p for 48v 560ah.
I was looking at the DROK charge-discharge multi-meter as well, but isn't that basically a flippin' shunt like the Victron? Waste of money?
I want to monitor as much as I can but seems like monitoring all 8 batteries individually will not be possible
I'm looking at this panel set for my new Dabbsson dbs2300 plus:
I'll be using the power station only at home so I don't need portable panels. I would just take the panels from my garage to my yard during an outage. Do I have to worry about shattering the glass? Is there a good foldable stand to prop them up with? If I add a third panel should I connect them in series? Thoughts? Thx
Hi I have Ilsco GBL-4DBTs, but smaller modules (100--200 W) do not meet the frame thickness (> 1.57 mm) and grounding hole diameter (4.98 mm) requirements. Any suggestions on grounding lugs for such smaller modules (which use 4 mm grounding holes)? How unacceptable would it be to use this model anyway with an M4 bolted joint (the PV grounding bolted joint from its Information Sheet, but with M4 hardware in lieu of #10-32 hardware) for thinner, smaller-hole PV modules?