Renovated landed property in recent years. Currently, got a new contractor to check on a roof, and he mentioned that there's no lightning rod/protection system (contractor observed no metal line), and suggested us to engage them to install. He said he can help run a line at a fee. No need special procedure. I wonder whether it is true. Questions:: (1) is it a good to have or a must-have? Seems like many houses in the neighborhood don't have it too. (2) Anyone has experience on the cost and the extent of hacking/paper work involved?

I am building some incredibly simple 12-volt ventilation fans for the porta potties at a festival. I've got 2.4W panels and old PC fans that take 0.14 amps.

We're going to 3D print some housings to hold them on top of the plumbing stack. I've used this setup before in my workshop, with the panels wired directly to PC fans, but I'm wondering if there's a better way to do this? Is there any need for a resistor or some sort of voltage regulator? It's totally fine if the fan speed varies with sun coverage, I just don't want to burn them out too fast.

We don't need battery capacity. The porta potties simply get hot in the sun so the more the sun shines the more we will ventilate the stink out.

I'm going to make a dozen of them so simple is better, but I just thought I would ask the advice of you folks who tinker a lot.

Hello, I'm new in the solar world and I would like a grid tie battery back up system. I plan to have ground mount PV panels feeding it as well.

I'm fortunate enough to be having a new home built. 18x40 exterior dimensions. It'll be on a steel skid so will be able to be moved if the need arises for us to change locations. We will not be using much power.

I'm considering going with a Ecoflow Delta Pro Ultra with X2 batterys 12kw in totall. The batteries are LiFePo4 I'm also interested in their smart home panel but would also be alright with just a traditional manual transfer switch as well. I will be getting the appropriate amount of PV panels to meet the requirements to feed this unit as well. The reason I am considering this option over having a full hardwired system installed is my local solar company said that my utility room is too small and Canada electrical code regarding solar will not allow any batteries the living space.

From what I understand I could have only the smart home sub panel or a traditional manual transfer switch installed that meets code then I could plug in the Ecoflow and my PVs and have my home backup system.

Am I going the right direction with my thinking or is this unwise and I should be looking another direction. This home will have insurance on it so any non code wiring is a non option. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks for reading.

I put together a small solar power system for emergency backup power. I tested it to run just a refrigerator and the battery went from 27+ volts (daytime) to 22 volts in a couple of hours after sunset. I'm using 2 new AGM 250AH 12v batteries connected in series. I load tested the batteries (starting with 13.5v) and they showed 12v under load. I am surprised that they're losing power so quickly when I thought they could easily power a fridge all night. If anyone has ideas or solutions to this issue I would love to hear them.

In theory this should be fine I believe but your solar controller and trickle charger both are hooked directly to the batteries. But if your solar is charging your batteries do you first need to disconnect them in order to plug in the trickle charger? Or can both run at the same time?

In theory this should be fine I believe but your solar controller and trickle charger both are hooked directly to the batteries. But if your solar is charging your batteries do you first need to disconnect them in order to plug in the trickle charger? Or can both run at the same time?

Hi,

I have some shading problems with a simple two 460w panels in series and looking into adding solar optimizers.

The setup is simple where I connect it to either a renogy controller or a sun grid tie 1000w inverter or hybrid inverter. Pretty simple.

I was told that adding an optimiser won't work because they look for some signal to activate for big installs safety.

So can anyone explain if that is true and is there a simpler MPPT optimizer that works in a small setup that works without the need of a system that sends a signal to activate?

I looked at:

TS4-A-O - Optimizer

But am not sure if these look for the signal and will not activate.

Let me what u think.

Thanks,

Recently upgraded my system by adding more panels and another charge controller, so no longer have to use generator/charger.

Batteries don't seem to be showing as 100%, as it still shows there are "consumed amp hours".

I have inexpensive 12v LiTime batteries wired for 2S2P for 24v. Since these batteries would throw my AIMS inverter, seems the two don't work great together according to AIMS support, I set all incoming max charge to 28v, which is where the shunt shows the batteries are at.

Could this be a settings or battery issue? Please let me know if more info would be helpful.

Can’t get a straight answer from my installer or Sol-Ark themselves.

Scenario:

15kW array is producing at peak output and supplying the full 15kW of AC output that the Sol-Ark is capable of (yes I know there are losses but assume that the conversion is 100% efficient for the sake of discussion). Continuous demand rises to 18kW.

Can the Sol-Ark supply the 15kW from the solar array and pull an additional 3kW from the grid via the built-in grid pass-through? Or is the AC output figure given without regard to the power input (PV, generator, grid)?

If the latter, what are some workarounds?

Ok so i have a had an idea to create a simple grid tie inverter ( limiter ) using products from the smart home automation system tuya/smart life using a few of the shelf products, yes i know it won't be perfect but for those with such a system that doe's NOT want to back feed into the grid and only draw a limited amount from the grid i think my idea should some how work if the products can do what is in my head and i think they can.

here is the post i made about my idea and the products i plan to use, maybe someone has had a similar or same idea and has already tested it i am waiting on some of my products to be delivered.

My Idea

please comment on your experience or maybe you have tried it and have some results ?

Hey,

I already have a 200AH smart battery from renogy, but now I want to add more capacity to the system.

Even though renogy say don't, can I add a 100ah renogy smart lipo battery?

Has anyone tried this? Does the renogy one let you do this?

Swap out the fans on a 48v All in one (AIO) LV6548 or SP6548

The cheap All in ones have loud fans. Here is a video on a DIY solution.

https://youtu.be/ZPQxcNS2-qs?si=Jn1RUCkxKsoBl0CQ

I've moved up 16 X 250W Canadian Solar (Cs6p-250m) panels on flat roof my garage. have a fridge, freezer, and a TV in the garage.

I'm after some guidance to see if I can set up an affordable off grid garage that can power these devices and make use of the donated panels. I'm located in Australia, Melbourne ,Victoria.

No electrician will even touch it, as they cannot guarantee the work. so I'm here to see if I can do it myself, so would appreciate some advice on what inverter would I require? what batteries (Lifepo4?) would i require and any idea on costs?

any help appreciated!!

details of one of the panels.

​

https://preview.redd.it/aesucgnbxzrc1.png?width=318&format=png&auto=webp&s=2a10e17ce96588dc90652b42a1c779d88f661513

​

How many watts should I expect a 200 watt panel to output? Currently the sun is fairly low on the horizon (within an hour of sunset)… but it’s full sunlight with no clouds. And I angled the panel straight toward the sun. But as you can see I t he photo, it’s getting 65 watts. Is this a problem?

Looking to source a 10KWH battery for a project. I'd prefer not to spend too much more on lithium than i have to. My application is off grid and not terribly critical.

I see plenty of no name batteries on ebay and other online stores that seem to fit the bill but its hard coming across any information on these sellers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/404179521801?itmmeta=01HTDWVX5ZVT3YP5K9JH5TGT7X

Im not too worried about buying off of ebay since there is quite good buyer protection, but there are also batteries off of sites like:

https://osmbattery.com/products/10kwh-lifepo4-lithium-battery-home-solar-energy-storage-system-electricity-generating-power/

My other option (and the one im currently leaning towards) is to just build the pack myself with cells from battery hookup.

Whats the deal with these brands? Are they selling legit batteries? I would prefer to save the time building a pack but not at the expense of buying a pile of crap.

Are there other resources people recommend when trying to source a battery like this?

Thanks!

PRE-APPLICATION DATA

Name of requestor

Removed for posting on Reddit

Location

Removed for posting on Reddit

Total capacity of sub/area bus, bank or circuit (MW)

10.5

Existing aggregate generation capacity interconnected to sub/area bus, bank or circuit (MW)

0.1

Aggregate queued generation capacity for sub/area bus, bank or circuit (MW)

0

Available capacity of sub/area bus, bank or circuit (MW)

10.4

Substation nominal transmission voltage

69 kV

Substation nominal distribution voltage

13.2 kV

Nominal distribution voltage at the proposed site

12.47 kV

Approximate circuit distance between proposed site and sub

6.21 from sub to point of three phase connection

Line section peak load

2.79 MW

Line section minimum load

0.9 MW

Number and rating of protective devices between proposed site and sub

one 800-amp recloser programmed as a sectionalizer

Number and type of voltage regulating devices between proposed site and sub

328-amp regulator

Substation has LTC (y/n)

No, but there is a voltage regulator on the secondary side of the transformer

Number of phases available at site

3 (actual site is on a single phase underground tap)

Limiting conductor ratings from proposed site to sub

376 amps @ 12.47 kV

Existing or known constraints (electrical dependencies at the location, short circuit interrupting capacity issues, power quality or stability issues, capacity constraints, secondary networks, etc):

Normally a distributed energy resource cannot be downstream of a line voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is 3.89 miles from the substation and 2.32 miles from the site.

*We want to start a solar farm on our 70-acre farm and still learning. Does anyone know what this evaluation from our local utility means regarding the viability of a solar farm on this site? Thank you

​

Just got a second hand Solax solar inverter, I wanted to install it before work tomorrow, but it's nighttime here, and I cannot seem to set it up without PV / DC input.

The wifi module does nothing, and the inverter display stays off.

Is this normal behavior, and should i wait till tomorrow morning? Or is this inverter broken too? :/

Hello,

I am travelling to visit family and want to get them something truly useful. My cousins often tell me of not having power to do school work or have light at night. I was first looking at the solar powered power banks built in one but learned those are kind of gimmicky.

So my question is, what should my set up be for solar panels and a power bank used for things like device charging (laptop and mobile), small appliances, lights etc? 300W seems good?

I have about two months to get the items. I am trying to err on the side of low costs, so that I can get one for each household. Thank you in advance for any advice you could give me.

Hi,

I have bought as a secondary inverter a Growatt MIC 1500X, attached to 5 Jinko 420W solar panels. I already have another installation with an inverter of 3650W. In Belgium, the maximum allowed generated power is 5000W for a single-phase domestic installation. Therefore, I want to limit the MIC1500 generated power to 1350W, as to be within the regulations of the grid owner in Belgium.

Is there a straightforward way to set this limitation in the inverter? I know about the way with a connected meter over RS485 or current transformer clamps which can serve as a measurement for limiting the produced power, but that is only relevant in a situation where the inverter needs to know the local consumption, which is not the case in my situation, as I need to limit the total power of my inverters to 5kW to be within the regulations. I know 5.1kW will not be reason for my breaker box to burst into flames (all wiring internally is rated at 63A), but still, I want to be within the regs.

Is there a way to limit the maximum power that the inverter generates without using an additional meter (Eastron SDM230-Modbus for example)? Is there a software setting that I can adjust so that the generated power stays below 1350W?

Any suggestions?

So I have 20x 12.8v 100ah victron batteries. I want to make a 25,600 wh battery bank. I will wire 4 in series X 5 in parallel.

What is the best way to wire them to the bus bar? Connect the banks in parallel and then take 1 negative and one positive to the bus bar or take 5 positives and 5 negatives to the bus bar. Which one? I have to fuse them all so I suppose wire hem one by one since these things are capable of 2c. On the other hand I will draw max 200 amps from the whole bank. So just put one 250 amp fuse and save on wire? Will it effecthe balancing?

Finalizing things for a solar and dc to dc setup in my van and curious what you guys think. I have only worked with smaller electronics and so my theory should work however I wanted to get a second opinion. I have included the numbers and a diagram of what I'm thinking. Please feel free to be brutally honest in your assessment. Also not 100% sure if needed but thinking of doing a blocking diode on each power rail before the switch.

• Power station input - 12-60V(75V Max) 25A Max, 800W Max
• DC to DC - victron dc to dc output - 28.31v / 15.14a
• Solar - Allpowers single 200w - 32v / 6.25a
• which based on my calculations should be 28.31v / 21.29a or about 600 watts at peak sun with engine running.
• Everything is 10 awg wire or thicker

I find it very difficult to find information by searching Google when it comes to solar power, and I am starting to wonder if that is on purpose. So I am here to ask this community instead.

I have a 4 panel (VSUN) enphase system on my roof that was installed last summer and on the best days it only produces enough to cover 25% of my electricity load. My installer wants to install a ground mount for additional panels but I am in a suburb like neighborhood and I am worried that my neighbors will complain about the eyesore.

So this leaves me with looking for other ways to raise my total wattage. I know higher wattage panels exist but I don't know what the upper limit is. If I can get 700 watt panels then that would almost double my solar power output. The next hurtle to overcome is the enphase microinverter wattage. Currently, I am clipping on the sunniest days, but only for an hour or 2. My thought is that if I can pair a 700 watt panel with my current microinverter then it will be at max power for longer, thus producing more power in total for the day. This also would get me prepared for the next generation of higher wattage microinverters whenever enphase gets around to releasing them.

I am open to suggestions and any constructive criticism. Is there anything else I can do to raise my total power?

ok I have (2) 100ah 12v LiTime batteries and want to build a system.

• I purchased a 2000w renogy inverter and they sent with it (2) 1awg cables...
• now fyi the system with have a 40A DC to DC charger as well.
• So my question is, or what i see is these 1awg cables are too small to handle the amperage and i should be using a minimum of 2/0 cables going from the batteries to the inverter.

should I just use the 1awg cables as the output wires from the DC to DC to the bus bars?

• (it seems after re-reading this i will need another short 1awg cable from the positive output to a 60A breaker, then use the renogy provided cable to go to the battery or bus bar)
• am i on the correct path above?
• my van battery will be wired to the input side of the 40A DC to DC charger with 4awg.