2013 JX 35 won’t go in D or R

It’s revving in park but when I put in D or R, it won’t rev and just keeps making a repetitive noise like something is stopping it from going into gear. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! I’m desperate!!!

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I just bought a 24 Sentra, only drove 1,700 miles. It shakes and almost sounds like it doesn’t wanna start. It always starts just doesn’t sound smooth, wondering if it’s something to worry about or if it’s common? TIA

Hey, I just interviewed with Nissan for a summer 2025 internship at their headquarters in Franklin, TN. Did really well in the interview, and the interviewer loved me. Waiting on the official offer/rejection. If I land this, I'm deciding between this and 2 other companies. Has anyone interned there? Can someone please tell me about the program?

1. Did you like it? Why/why not
2. Do they offer relocation?
3. Roughly what percentage of interns got return offers? The position is for the summer before my senior year of getting my bachelor's and would hopefully roll over into a full time job, so wherever I end up summer 2025 is likely where I'll end up full time, and I want to know if my odds are good.

Thanks in advance

Does anyone have an updated bulletin for all the software updates? I’ve got this one: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10234078-0001.pdf But it’s only up till March 8th, 2023. Is there any updated version for 24 models?

Hi im looking into buying a Nissan Sentra SR 2022 35k miles for 19k ( 9,4% apr ), i can afford comfortably the monthly payment . Is that a good offer or should I negotiate? Also what do I look for when I test drive it later ? . First time buying a car so I’m kinda clueless . My second option is Sentra SV 2023 ( 3k miles) same price.

Tbf I like the sunroof and the extra options in the premium package SR

Hi guys looking for some advice.

I had my car serviced with a private garage around 8 weeks ago. And paid extra for new fuel filters and things.

Yesterday, my car would not start, my recovery RAC driver informed me it is an injector that has gone and leaked fuel all over the engine.

Have I just had some bad luck? I just feel it was a bit of coincidence it’s only gone after the service has been done, and the car was perfectly fine before I sent it in.

Would appreciate any advice :) and also if anyone has any idea price wise to get this issue fixed on a Nissan Quasqai I would be really thankful :)

Everything is showing me conflicting results. Any suggestions for Fluid?

I have a 2017 pathfinder. My AC is stuck all the way cold and I can't switch to air blowing out any other vent than the front vents. If I switch the temperature or vent, my display will show that the temp and vent has been changed but cold air still blows out the front vent only. Any ideas on what could cause this?

I have a 2016 Rouge with a sunroof that has two side lights instead of a center dome light. I need to replace the bulbs on both sides and want to know if anyone knows how to do that? I've Googled it a few times but nothing has come up for these particular ones. I would normally just go in there with a screwdriver and damage everything trying to wing it but I happen to like this car and want to keep it decent. Thank you for your help!

I am swapping seats out (Original owner gutted interior and left me with base model seats). I am attempting to swap in new seats, need a bracket mount.

Does anybody know what I can search for? Or what other cars share the same bracket? (most websites don’t have Juke brackets)

I have a 2012 Nissan Quest with 90K miles. Starting about 3 years ago, check engine light come and go several times without me doing anything. About a year ago, check engine light came on. I took the car to my mechanics. It was P0101 mass airflow sensor issue. So they changed the mass airflow sensor. But not long after, the light came over again. The shop changed the mass airflow sensor again and the light came back. In addition, the car sometimes tumble when I accelerate at low speed. This time they found 5 codes, P0101, P0171 and P0174(both are engine related), P0746, P0868 (both are transmission related). My mechanics asked me to take the car to a transmission shop and said I need to have the transmission fixed first. I took the car to a transmission shop. They told me that I need to have the engine exam first. And I took the car to another mechanics. He looked at the codes and it said I need to take the car to the dealer to reset the computer. Interesting enough, on my way home, the check engine light magically disappeared. Anyone ran into similar situation? How do you fix the problem?

I have a 2023 Pathfinder SL (w/ remote start). We only have 1 key for the car, can't find the second key for it. I spoke to a local locksmith who said that only Dealers can program 2023 Nissan Pathfinder Key fobs. Is this true?

They seem to be fairly expensive at $575 a key from the dealer, and was hoping I could get an OEM virgin key fob online and have a local locksmith program it.

I just upgraded from a XR, which worked fine with my ‘21 Versa. Ever since the new phone, it’s not been able to connect to my car at all. I’ve used several cords, I’ve tried troubleshooting and reconnecting multiple times, but nothing.

I have this piece out and do not know where it goes, it was stuck inbetween my a/c line

Looking to update the SD card in our 2011 Micra Tekna as we're frequently getting issues where we have to eject and reinsert the card and getting lost on newer roads. Can a yone recommend a source for a new card. I'm in the UK.

I wanted to know if anyone has any experiences with any of these. They are all the same tablet/head unit but I wanted to know if anyone has ever seen these things or used them before. And if the amps are better than the factory in a 14 to 19 versa

My armada started randomly dying while driving. It happens after I come to a complete stop at a stop sign or light. I start accelerating and it dies. I put it in park and fire it back up. I took it to a local shop here and they replaced the throttle body. Drove it around for a few days around town and seemed to be doing fine. Then we are about to leave to go out of town and it died on me again, same scenario, at a stop light after I pushed the accelerator.

It's not throwing any codes so it's getting tough to diagnose. Anyone else ran into this issue?

I want to get a dash cam that I don’t always have to charge. Any recommendations?

Hello! I am looking to get CarPlay installed in my 2018 Nissan Versa SV. I'm thinking of going to Best Buy and have it professionally installed. Will this impact my backup camera? What CarPlay models do you recommend? Any advice you have is appreciated, thank you.

Sorry ahead of time for the long post, I just want to make sure I cover all my bases.

Last Friday (10/25/24) I took my 2015 Nissan Rogue to the dealership for my state inspection and oil change. Everything was running fine and smooth. I passed inspection and they said everything was fine. Fast forward to a few hours later (I left the dealership at about 5), my husband and I were leaving a friends house to go home, and when I went to start my car, it was completely dead. Dead like no lights came on, no noise coming from anywhere when I would try to start it. Dead. My friend connected his jumper cables to my battery to jump it. A few minutes later, the only sound coming was a bit of a “click click click” trying to start, but nothing turned over. The second we disconnected the jumper cables from my battery, everything went dead again just like before (we were thinking worse case scenario it being an issue with the battery or alternator). The only thing we could do was have our friend drive us home and call AAA the next morning.

Saturday morning comes along, we get it towed to my father in laws mechanic so he can take a look at it. My husband and in laws have been taking their cars to him for as long as I can remember, and he’s very honest and trustworthy. We give him the rundown of what’s been going on, and he says he’ll take a look at it and keep us in the loop of what’s going on. At first, he thinks it could be the alternator and gives us pricing for the part. He says that he’s gonna keep looking into it and run some more tests just to be on the safe side before buying anything.

My husband and I get a call from the mechanic saying the alternator and battery are both in good shape and aren’t the issue., and that he was able to get it started after letting the battery charge for a while. He said an error code came up saying “headlight system error”, even though he said the headlights were working fine. He mentioned he was going to run a few more tests to make sure.

Monday, my husband gets a call from the mechanic while I’m at work. The mechanic mentions that he has been able to start the car several times and it’s running fine, but there are several different codes popping up (fuel, catalytic, EGR, evaporator, 02). Codes that shouldn’t have allowed me to pass inspection. He says that nothing makes sense with my car and sees no reason why any of these codes are popping up because he can’t find anything wrong, and the only way to really tell what’s going on is for my car to completely die again. So, we go to pick up my car when I get out of work and call it a night.

But here we are again. I have the day off work today (Thursday 10/31) and I went to my car to go run a few errands, and guess what. My car is dead again, except the only difference is my inside overhead lghfs turn on when I open the door. Other than that, when I turn the key in the ignition, not a sound. No “click click click”, just silence.

Throughout this time, I am in contact with a neighbor who works at the dealership I originally had the inspection at, wondering if he knows of anything could have cause this, especially considering it first died only four hours after I passed inspection. He says he’d look into it and see. My husband and him run into each other outside and my neighbor said that if it happens again, bring it in and they’ll look at it again. And he’ll make sure I have a rental.

So, this leaves me with a few questions:

Is this an issue that should have been found during my inspection? If not, could it have been caused by the inspection? Should I have even passed with the codes the mechanic found? Do I have it towed back to the dealership where I had the inspection and have them look at it since it started happening after I left them? Or do I have it towed to the mechanic my husband and in-laws take it to?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Basically as the title says I have a 2013 Nissan Sentra with 70,000 miles on it. At first I noticed the rpm would go crazy when parked which isn't normal. Well now it stalled completely twice this morning and eventually the codes went away but the rpm continued to fluctuate rapidly. Again this is while being parked so I don't think it's anything with the transmission. Some fixes that have been done are the entire throttle bottle has been replaced and the MAP sensor has also been replaced entirely. I've had two mechanics one who specializes in electrical and one not both look at the car and try various fixes but nothing has stuck. It seems to work temporarily but soon after the issue occurs all over again. It wouldn't be a problem if it was a minor issue but when this happens I physically cannot get the car to move at all. I'm totally at a loss here and thinking about just selling it for parts cause we can't seem to figure out what the problem is. One of them mentioned it could be a wire but that doesn't help narrow it down. It won't throw any codes or anything. But if it can get started when the issue isn't happening it works perfectly. Anyways any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks!

I was wondering if I should top off my coolant. I know it's considered normal to lose a few ounces over the course of a year, and I understand the principle that this is a OVERFLOW tank, and that so long as there is fluid in it, the radiator and cooling system is fine. The little plastic markings MIN and MAX are just guidelines.

It's starting to get cold here and got about 45 last night, and I was curious about my levels, so I took a look. It was a hair above the MIN line. I figured with the colder weather more coolant stayed in the block and radiator, since it's under vacuum.

Sitting in the cold overnight.

I let the car run for about 10 minutes to get to normal operating temps on the dash (but I killed the engine right as it got to normal temp, so the radiator fan wasn't on or anything.) Here is where I am at then.

After idling for 10 or so minutes.

So what do we think? Is it worth topping off or just leave it alone? If I top-off I'll have to go buy some coolant (I know I could use a few ounces of distilled water, but I'd rather not throw off the mixture ratio of 50:50).

Thanks!

Happy Halloween:)