/r/lawnmowers
A place to get help with and discuss lawn & garden equipment and various small engine applications. Questions are welcome, and so are pics and accomplishments! Please remember to keep it civil.
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r/smallengines!
Lawnmowers and lawnmower accessories.
Check out /r/hondamowers and /r/SnapperRER
/r/lawnmowers
I've got an old snapper with a solid Tecumseh tmv140. Anybody know if any of the newer cheap carbs on Amazon will work? Really don't wanna pay $75 for a carb
Hi all, I’m new to Reddit and this page. I recently finished doing a winter service on my Z740R John Deere mower with Amsoil products. I’ve been using Amsoil products in my truck and my mower for about a year now with good luck. I was wondering if anyone else here is using their products and if you’ve had any problems out of it.
These are the products I’ve been using on my mower.
Oil: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-10w-40-100-synthetic-small-engine-oil-asf/?zo=30826981
Stabilizer: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-gasoline-stabilizer-ast/?zo=30826981
Hi,
Looking for a bit of advice r.e a second hand mower.
It's a briggs and stratton mower and it worked fine the first couple of times I used it.
On about the 3rd time the petrol cap popped without me realising off and there was a bit of spillage.
The next time I tried to use it, there was a burning smell and it began to smoke. however it wasn't white smoke like I might expect with the oil around the enginge or air filter but looks like the smoke you might get when a fire is just starting.
While I do tip the mower up to 30 degress when cutting due to my lawn, I've not put it on its side at all.
I've left it for a week or so to dry out, and it still starts up fine. However after about 30 seconds the smoke starts and it perists for a shot while after shutting the engine off.
Am I ovethinking it and I should just leave it running to let what might be just oil burn off, or is there something more serious going on?
The smoke is coming from the left hand side of the mower, opposite the air filter, I've attached pictures. You can see the soot where something is burning.
Many thanks
Hi everyone - first time buying a riding mower. Don't need anything big or brand new. Mostly just saving myself some time and wondering which of a couple local used options is the best bet. (All priced similarly $1600-$1800)
Currently looking at a 2017 JD X320 which has more hours (300) but seems in good shape other than the seat which the seller told me needs to be replaced. The case for this one would be the Kawasaki engine (against the other two which have B&S) which I've read is more durable and the fact that it's a higher tier model than the S120 and XT1 which are sold on the floor @ HD and Tractor Supply. Seller also has 2/5 star reviews which gives me some pause.
The S120 is a 2020 and the XT1 is a 2022 with 96 and 36 hours respectively. Have read that JD is better than Cub almost across the board as far as quality and durability/reliability. Is there really a big difference there between brands or should I just go with the slightly newer Cub?
Any thoughts would be helpful here! Also, should I consider just spending the extra $800-1000 and buy new?
Hopefully it seals with gasket and fuel proof dressing
I have an old Yard Machines (by MTD) 46" mower with three blades. Probaly from WalMart eons ago. It was making a bunch of noise. The primary spindle (with two pulleys) has one of the bearings wobbling in a worn out seat. I ordered a rebuild kit from amazon, which includes three spindles, blades, and a belt. All looks right except the pulleys on the primary spindle. The pulleys should both be about 5" in diameter, with the drive pulley wider to accept a wider belt (21/32), but only the bottom pulley is 5", and the drive pully is about 5-5/8", and it is for a narrower belt.
Where can I find a 12 spline pully which is 5" in diameter, wide enough to accommodate a 21/32 belt?
Looks like its working so far. You can see the dark un-sanded part where it was leaking. The flange is slightly lumpy but the sanding is working
Just got it home last night. It sat for 14 years in a garage. Got it running, but got a kill switch shutting it off. Need to push it into garage, no idea how to disengage drive. Side note ran like it was brand new when we had it running. Which is a testament how well these were built.
I have a cheap petrol multi tool and a leaf blower with low compression they are just sitting lying around doing nothing.I have seen a YouTuber using a product in the combustion chamber to up the compression but cannot find the video dose anyone know of a product that can increase compression without buying new parts?.
If we were thinking about buying a new riding mower (looking at something like a smaller toro zero turn) next year, should we pull the trigger now in case these tariffs actually happen? Do you expect mower prices to jump?
Was cutting grass last week with my trusty old John Deer JS25 push mower. I went to release the throttle to cut the mower off and it did not cut off, it continue to run. I had to lean the mower on the side to choke it out to get it to cut off. After that it would not crank back.
I've changed the plug, tried to start it with starting fluid and it will not hit, like it's not getting a spark.
I'm not super familiar with the small engines but could it be something where the throttle cable controls the coil.
The plastic engine intake manifold pipe has warped where it seals against the carb. You can see light shine through the flange (even with a gasket you can still see it shine right through)
so i have this toro recycler i found on the side of the road its got a 6.75 HP quantum on it and according to the engine date its a 2008 its in nice shape and looks to have been well maintained the oil and air cleaner were clean when i got it blade was fairly sharp and tank was empty i got it going again ( needle valve wasnt sealing but some carb spray fixed it ) only issues were a slipping self propel belt which i tightened and the deck had grass built up on it so i scraped a lot of it off then used the washout port to clean it nice and good i also sharpened the blade and ive been using it for the rest of this mowing season and before the last mow of the season i looked underneath and the deck somehow still had no grass stuck to it i do not do any sort of cleaning or anything after using it just shut it down and put it back in the garage i also put no sort of coating on the deck the only real thing i do to prevent grass getting stuck is not mowing in the rain or when the grass is visibly wet so i want to know how come no grass got stuck to the bottom of it
another question i have is why is it that if i flip the mower on its side for more than a few seconds ( carb facing up ) it will refuse to start for about 30-40 min it just will not do anything even with ether or carb spray the plug is dry so not flooded and it still feels to have compression then in about 30-40 min it will just fire right up as if nothing happened it normal starts and runs nicely starting on first pull and after its warmed up it will cut without bogging down too much
I followed the directions from fiskars, and other videos, but I can never get the blade to touch the bed knife. I'm trying to sharpen the blade by back lapping. I turned the height adjustment bolt the other direction and the blade is still the same height.
I’ve got an ATV (with a hitch), and a real basic 21” push mower.
I’d like to somehow attach the mower to the ATV so that I can mow as I ride.
What would y’all suggest as the best way of doing this… welding a tow bar of sorts to the front of the mower and towing it with the ATV? Or putting together some contraption attached to the front of the ATV so that it can “push” the mower?
I realize there are proper professionally made tow-behind mowers, but I find those to be incredibly pricey…. Over $3k!
Was wondering any suggestions to make a homemade version of this with things I already have.
Ideas?
Check the oil before I started it. Wasn't below the first thread, i.e. full. Was picking up leaves and it just stopped all of a sudden, figured it was out of gas since I hadn't filled it in a while. Checked the oil and it was extremely low (about four threads down from full), now it just freely spins. Waste of $175 for the motor I guess. I give up
I don't get any clicks or anything. All the safeties seem to be working because the motor cuts off when I have the PTO knob engaged and I get out of the seat. I replaced the PTO switch and the entire PTO clutch and still nothing. Any ideas?
The following link is to the mower at lowes. Google price history shows it consistently at 549-550 so I was curious if anyone has ever bought or seen this mower on sale and when the occured.
I'm thinking of buying this from Lowe's. Any recommendations? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Toro-Recycler-Max-163-cc-22-in-Gas-Self-propelled-Lawn-Mower-with-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine/50occurred.
Alternative similar priced push mowers can also be recommended!
I've had a Ryobi ride on mower for 2 years, and as great as low maintenance has been, it's not great for two acres. Takes too long - I can only do the front or the back before power dies.
I'm looking at buying one of three options:
Toro. 50" time cutter JD 330R 54" Ariens Ikon 54"
Toro is about $600 less than the other two.
Any thoughts?
Hey guys, I picked up one of these this year and have been happy with it so far. Just running the grass catcher on it. Sucks up leaves ok but it also spits leaves out from the front of the deck onto my last pass. Im wondering if anyone has a similar issue with stand on and their remedies for this. I see Protero makes a compatible vac system. Wondering also if anyone had experience with them?
Serious question. I thought the Honda lawnmower brand stopped production due to EPA regulations. Will this change with Trump?