A place to get help with and discuss lawn & garden equipment and various small engine applications. Questions are welcome, and so are pics and accomplishments! Please remember to keep it civil.
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Lawnmowers and lawnmower accessories.
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/r/lawnmowers
I recently purchased a snowblower for my lawn tractor and it came with wheel weights and chains. The chains are on, but my rims don't have any holes for the weights to mount. Am I supposed to just drill them? I want to be sure before I do it.
Ive been considering purchasing a small tractor with a belly mower or maybe a rotary/bush hog mower. Now I’m thinking about getting an industrial strength zero turn. The surface I’m mowing ranges from lawn type to rough field with some bumps so I need to be able to raise the deck up at least 4 inches on occasion. Some of the grass that I mow is thick weeds. I’m prepared to drop $15k if necessary. Need advice on what’s the most appropriate mower for this type of job and what brands are the most reliable?
The pull-start in my Briggs and Stratton mower has lost tension. Want to take the housing off and have a look but I can' remove these screws. I've tried allen-keys but.
Disclaimer - I'm not very good with tools
My Cub Cadet zero turn goes strong for 30 minutes or so then stops as if out of fuel. It then does not turn over at all. Wait 15 minutes and starts again, then goes again and same thing happens. Any ideas?
So I had a Spartan SRT-HD 61” with a 27hp kawi and I didn’t like it. Rode smooth but I swear even in #5 setting it would leave a lot of clumps in my grass and miss some spots. So I sold it.
I’m looking for a zero turn for 3.5 acres
Mainly something I can mow at medium/high speed without it clumping grass so much so maybe I need the 37hp engine?
What a smooth ride. This is an old field property so it’s bumpy. The smoothest ride possible
Live in rural areas so no dealers around really. Will travel or order whatever I find or am recommend
So smooth and powerful is what I’m after also 54 inch deck preferable have to mow around some tighter spots. The 61 on the Spartan was pushing it.
I don't have a picture of the lawnmower but it's a 2 cylinder v-twin
What's happening: what's happening is the battery is sparking and the wires are getting hot can anyone help me?
I'm wondering if its something to do with the grounds
Hey all, This season was pretty harsh on my 22” Honda. The engine’s fine (GCV160), but the brackets that hold the handle onto the body ripped between the hole positions. I had to replace those as well as the adjustment knobs, but the little pins on those pop out all the time and the handle gets loose. Then the self propel mechanism disengaged, the paddles are flapping all over the place and when I went to investigate that, I found that the handle bar was broke/split underneath all the plastic housing. So I ended the season with no propel and handle bars gorilla taped and bungee corded together. Given that the engine’s good, I’m not opposed to taking it to get fixed up. But part of me is thinking I should go ahead and upgrade. I still want a walk behind, but probably with a wider deck so I can cut down on the 2hrs it’s been taking lately. My yard’s a half-acre and pretty level, although some decent bumpiness (which probably led to the handle bar issues). Additionally, I’ve got some sections that get particularly thick. I mow once a week, but it can get bad enough that the Honda has to fight to get through and sometimes doesn’t. So what’s the latest? I see a lot of recommendations for the Timecutter 30”, but often see it doesn’t do well in the thick stuff. I don’t mind spending that kind of money, maybe a bit more, as long as I know I’m getting something that’s durable and tough. I’m not opposed to electric, and I’m not opposed to used commercial. Really just thinking ahead to the season and looking to gauge the experts’ opinions. Thanks in advance.
I’m sure the answer is not to but I can’t find a replacement and this glue stuff the last person put on hasn’t worked. Should I chip off the glue and melt all the plastic together with a soldering iron?
Might have just been mine in NJ, but the john deere 10w30 which is API certified was on sale for about $2.30/qt. Technically good enough for your car, but definitely good for all gas mowers.
Have a John Deere z335e. Was mowing when the governor arm linkage disconnected and then started overrevving. Fixed up the linkage and now it overrevs instantly when starting the machine. Any thoughts what to look at next?
Picked this up local. Runs and cuts great.
Belt drive Kawasaki engine, not used commercially, seems like a good deal to me but wanted to see if anyone had experience with this toro model. Thanks
I got this thing running and driving today and it seems to be under powered. My father bought this new and said it would easily get bogged down when mowing. Any suggestions on how to squeeze a bit more power out of it. I was thinking a new carb but a lot of aftermarket carbs are junk. I cleaned the carburetor, changed the fuel filter, and put a new spark plug in it.
I wasn’t expecting to buy a mower till spring so I haven’t done the research. But I have been informed it would be beneficial to buy equipment in this tax year. So purchase tomorrow in Wa. Looking for a zero turn to handle acres of infant x mas tree farm ( 700 trees) any good deals I should look at?
Scott's mower, John Deere made these. Briggs and Stratton 17.5.
The good: Has compression, Oil change, Gas, Ignition switch, Ignition coil, Spark plug, Cleaned carb, gas key
The bad: Seat, electrical, maybe neutral sensor or a ground, maybe starter solenoid, don't wanna dump money into it. Some rust but solid frame still.
Good to restore or for parts. I can help load.
Near big spring TX
Cant figure how to post pics I'm using a phone so check comments.
Home Depot, apparently, still has a stockpile of Honda gas mowers they are liquidating. These are the machines that were pulled from sale more than a year ago, for camshaft problems.
I live in So. Calif., and these units have showed up for sale before, but now, they are greatly discounted. MSRP on the hydro static drive & blade brake clutch model is $1100, but I just bought one for $699. Had to jump. The last of an era, I suppose.
California outlawed sale of newly built gas mowers starting 2024. Since these machines were made before that, apparently, they are still okay to sell.
Home Depot delivers these for free too. Mine is supposed to come tomorrow. Proof is in the doing, though. I've got my fingers crossed.
EDIT: tracking shows shipped!
Deciding between a Ferris 500s or Hustler Fastrak. This would be for medium sized yards for my lawn business. The most important thing to me is cut quality, also in different situations. (Overgrown grass, wet grass, bagging, mulching, side discharge). I would also like a mower that is reliable and durable and the best bang for my buck.
Any comment or help is appreciated. Thank you!
I have a Snapper RER Model: 7800950 I believe 2013 or 14. It won't move anymore. the friction disc looked good, but I replaced it anyways. I was noticing the friction disc does not touch the drive plate in gear. I also put the tension spring in the hole furthest from the back of the machine.
If I push up on the yoke, it will engage the drive plate, but if i go over a bump or shift the yoke moves a little and unengages the friction disc from the drive plate. The yoke does not look worn at all. Anyone have any ideas what I should look for? Is it possible to tighten the yoke or is it tightened too much?
edit: maybe it's the yoke bearings, or the spring, slide, slide half?
He said 535 hours
Don’t have. Clue what it is or used for.
I got this mower for free and spun it to see how it sounded, and I don't think it sounds normal. Any ideas on why? Or is it normal? Both pistons move and all valves move
What is your go to tool to pull a stuck spark plug wire without tearing the boot? My Kohler engine has one boot that always pulls easily but tge other one is a royal pain and I have torn the boot a couple of times
As title says, was able to diagnose that my starter solenoid is bad. Lawnmower turns on if i short the circuit to bypass the solenoid. =
However, unlike every youtube video ive seen of John Deere solenoid replacements, the one on the x330 is mounted in the hardest place to access and not screw mounted either. Instead it has this metal cable tie holding it in place and I have no idea how to either loosen or remove it easily.
Before i bang my head over a wall trying to brute force it off, figured I'd ask here if someone had a more obvious tip or a link to a YT video with a similar setup that I can follow along?