At work, we got a Rotamaster 4000 automatic blade sharpening machine, and I was given the job to repair it. Had to replace the gears on the auto index (badly worn) and the sharpening stone.

Problem is that the manual doesn't explain which side the stone should be mounted. The brand new stone is entirely flat on one side and rounded on the other. Plus Google hasn't helped.

Really don't want to make a mistake and install this stone backwards or something stupid like that. Would appreciate if someone can correct me on which side the stone needs to be installed.

Moving to a new property that is only about an acre but it has some slopes that based on my research would not be good for a zero turn. I have had two zero turns and actually both were very good choices, a pre-acquisition Dixie Chopper Zee 42 and an Exmark Radius E Series 48. I liked them both and both had certain advantages or features but the Exmark was the better (and more expensive) mower. I sold each and came out OK on the used market because they were clean and low hours. I am careful on oil changes, blades and the like.

Based on research and if budget wasn't a concern, I would probably be looking at a new commerical wide area walk behind (like the Turf Tracer) but it is pricey and I am not 100% convinced that I need a 48" deck that I might find a 36" deck easier to maneuver and easier with fence gates.

I also believe that I would want an electric start/hydro drive. I am mid-50s and I am not certain that I want to pull start a 14+ HP mower. I understand the hydro drives provide more turn support.

I could finance something new (SCAG, Bobcat, Exmark - what else)

Or I have a neighbor that has a 2007 Exmark Metro 36". It is a belt drive, pull-start, 14HP Kohler with - if I trust him - around 600 hours. He wants $1,000 for it. It is clean but it needs a new belts. I think the price is a bit high and I might be able to get him to $700.

What do you all think and what would you do. The mowing season in my area is early March to early December, The lot is hilly and wooded - so lots of leaves.

There is a lot out there on zero-turns and not so much on these walk-behinds. And I am concerned about quality on something like a Cub Cadet or that like. I don't want a 400 pound mower that I can't move.

Take a chance on the 2007 or go big (or go home) on a new financed unit ($100-$125 a month).

Hi all. I apologize if my terminology isn’t all correct. I have a toro zero turn mower i got a few years back. I also have an old briggs and Stratton leaf vacuum that used to connect to the old mower. That mower is gone and id like to get the vacuum working again. I can not find anywhere a deck boot that i can connect a hose from the boot to the vac system. Any help would be appreciated.

Thinking seriously about a new zero turn, I'm 66 and recovering from a lumbar fusion surgery, and currently have a 1991 Simplicity Landlord with a 50 in deck. It's been a great mower over the years, very solid, but parts, especially decks are almost impossible to find anymore.

The thing with my back surgery is I have to avoid excessive vibration for some time going forward, plus the sitting position of a conventional lawn tractor is not exactly beneficial.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a zero turn with suspension for a softer ride, and a 60 inch deck? My mowing is 3 acres some of it bumpy ground.

https://preview.redd.it/962pbeo268yc1.jpg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=079d849079cbaae1da614ac76a5aed4bbcb72306

Little over and acre of land, mostly flat. Want something that will last a long time and be able to use a blade for snow plowing. Leaning towards a JD S220, but want to make the right selection.

I am needing a new push mower and would like to stay away from electric if possible. Can anyone recommend me a push mower that can go through wet and taller grass without bogging down?

Won’t start without starting fluid. Carb is almost new. Have only always used non ethanol gas. Any ideas?

The bag is missing though. Glad I checked the oil lever before use, was over filled by at least a quart. Any tips on maintaining or using this?

My wife was driving by our property a couple weeks ago and saw a riding mower with a free sign on it. We ended up taking it. It's a 25 year old MTD 42" deck with a 16 up Kohler engine.

When I got it home to look closer, it seemed in rough shape. It looked like it had been in a ditch for the last 20 years. Mice skeletons, maggots, and plant debris were everywhere and jammed in all nooks and crannies.

• cleaned it
• new battery
• new oil filter
• new fuel filter
• new fuel lines
• changed the oil
• new air filter
• new spark plug

Bam! It fired up. I was totally stoked. I just swapped the blades and belt today and mowed the lawn with it. I'm just bragging because I'm super excited about having a riding mower for $200 or so in parts and some elbow grease, and I don't know where else to share my excitement. I just ordered a few more parts tonight: spindle guard, gas cap, tire chains, and tire tubes (only one of the tires won't hold air, and I have a pretty steep lawn where I lost a bit of traction today even though it's dry). It cut my mow time down to an hour compared with 2 hours with a walk behind. A bit more elbow grease to grease up all the linkages, and I'm hoping it will last me all season. Totally worth the effort.

Hey guys,

I bought an Echo SRM-266 off a guy online. He said it was "new" until the day I was going to come get it after which he said he had used it that day to cut his grass. Regardless, the trimmer looks very new, and clean.

It started up no problem, idled etc. I didn't go too crazy with it while I was there.

Getting it home, it oddly doesn't start when the choke is on, but will start second or third pull when the choke is off. Also, it ran ok, but it seems bogged down- as in, it seems like the RPM's are quite limited. It got going fast enough to do all my trimming, but it seems like it was being held back and didn't seem to scream like all the other 2-stroke engines I've had in the past.

I am looking for any advice. I went to register but unfortunately I don't have the purchase information (store, date), and I'm not hopeful that this guy will help me with that. I also don't have the tool to remove the caps for a carb adjustment, although if that's recommended I can buy one to try the adjustment. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I have a Troy-Bilt Bronco with a Kohler Courage SV470-SV620. Bought it brand new 11 years ago.

Current issues:

• Engine backfires sometimes (I don't know enough to know if this is a huge issue or not)
• Engine is missing two mounting bolts and shakes when starting up and turning off. When running it's fine.
• Muffler has fallen off. It's still present, but the bolts connecting the muffler to the engine fell out and the muffler is effectively doing nothing
• Pulleys are working but warn and cracked
• Tires are worn; bald in places
• Head gasket has always been problematic. Have replaced several times.
• Steering shaft gears are slipping. This was the last straw today...it was nearly impossible to steer.

All I really do is blow the grass of when I'm done mowing and change the oil once a year. At some point it's had air and fuel filters. Couple batteries, etc. I mow a half acre lot with it during the spring/summer months so I'm guessing somewhere between 300-450 hours.

A brand new Troy-Bilt 42" is $2,000. I'm not sure if it's worth repairing what I have vs selling it and buying a new or lightly used one. I'm sure someone can get several more years out of mine with some repairs, but I value reliability and am not very mechanically-inclined. Thoughts?

I own a John Deere Z235E that I don’t love. It seems to slip on slight hills even with slow deliberate turns. It also seems to do a poor job with its mulching kit going slow with dry conditions. I bought it as the cheapest ZT at Lowe’s.

I’m interested if anyone can help compare it to a Kubota Z232KW. I realize it has the same sized tire essentially just with a different rim size. But my experience in running Kubota equipment is you get what you pay for in the experience. It also looks like a more comfortable mower configuration.

Would this be a worthwhile upgrade or will I still be disappointed with the same tire size? I’m going on the assumption that Kubotas engineering and setup won’t have the same issues.

I have about 2 acres to mow. Most of it is flat with a few trees, a few areas have a 15-20 degree slope. i used a john deere zero turn for most of it for a few years but the hydrostatic mower went bad. right now i'm using a push string trimmer on the big slopes but it's a lot of work and slightly dangerous because it gets slippery. regular push mower is even harder. what type of mower would be my best option? i'd like to buy something used and commercial.

Looking to buy a riding mower, coming from push mower. Have about an acre with some slopes, about 20 degrees. Was looking at X350 and S240 John Deere. Today went over to Gravely/Ariens dealer and looked at their residential zero turn mowers Gravely zt x-52. Now really considering Gravely. Any advice is much appreciated.

Need help with installing the side discharge chute. I removed it from the deck. Because being in a wheelchair, and bending over to do work. I didn't want it to be in my way. Now I don't know how the torsion spring is attached. Any thoughts about it would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

My PTO belt was worn out so I bought a new one and swapped them out. Everything was running fine before the belt swap and now I’d be lucky to get it to turn over twice. Anyone else come into this issue and know a solution?

Hi All,

Recently purchased a used Honda HRN216 off marketplace ($150). Seller claimed the drive belt kept “coming off”, replaced it, and smart drive didn’t work. Looked solid, started right up with no issues.

Got it to my work and upon further inspection noticed the belt was brand new, but off the pulley on the transmission.

Put the belt back on the pulley, and upon turning the mower on, the self propel worked great, so great that it will not stop self propelling when turned on. Smart drive control has a ton of tension even after turning the spindle on the side to its lowest tension setting.

Any ideas?

Manual doesn’t talk about this.
But assuming if I lower it all the way to lowest setting. . 1.5” I think.
It should be the blade that is 1.5” off the ground. Not the deck.
Assuming I adjust the 4 threaded rods I corners of deck to get blades at correct height??

Same for levelness of deck?