/r/highvoltage
HV stuff
Discussing all things related to high voltage electronics and experimentation: induction coils, Tesla coils, electrostatics, influence machines, vacuum tubes, x-rays, plasma, spark gaps, lifters, Tesla, and related things
All things related to high voltage electronics and experimentation: induction coils, Tesla coils, electrostatics, influence machines, vacuum tubes, x-rays, plasma, spark gaps, lifters, Tesla, and related stuff
ANSI C84.1-2020 defines
high voltage as 115-230 kV
extra-high voltage as 345-765 kV
ultra-high voltage as 1,100+ kV
Other subreddits
/r/electronics
/r/askelectronics
/r/RFelectronics
/r/electrostatics
/r/Tesla
/r/highvoltage
I've come across an old 2kvdc power supply (10mA). I found it in storage at my uni and we're going to be using it for a project. It appears to work fine but I don't have any of the old probes for it. Regular oscilloscope probes connected to the leads on the supply but they aren't rated for more than 500V. I believe that the connector for the probes that i used are a "BNC" connector.
My main question is will a SHV connector work if a BNC connector made contact? or is there another style of connector that should be acquired?
The power supply is a "Pacific Photometric Instruments Model 200". I found an ebay listing for a Model 204 that looks similar but it is not exactly the same linked below:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/286226168560?_trksid=p2332490.c101224.m-1
Hey guys, I thought I somewhat understood this, but apparently not. I'm using a ZVS to drive a flyback transformer that I wound myself, and I have a few questions for people way smarter than me.
The transformer I’m using has 800 turns on the secondary and 10 center-tapped turns on the primary (2 × 5). It generates around 3-4 kV.
Bonus question: At what voltage can I start seeing corona discharge?
I've been working on an project which entails a setup in which I have two voltage multipliers being hooked up to a DC pulse arc igniter, the latter of which is powered by a 12V lithium battery. Or this is how it should work in theory. I believe that my pulse arc igniter can work with one of the half wave multipliers, but the issue arises when I want to hook up the pulse igniter to both CW multipliers simultaneously. With my setup, the diodes in the negative half wave multiplier are directly reversed from those of the positive multiplier, as is typically customary with a bipolar setup. All I wanna know is can my arc igniter power both multipliers at the same time, and if so can any of you give me some tips as it pertains to wiring between the multipliers and the arc igniter? If not, should I buy a second arc igniter and individually power each voltage multiplier? I haven't done that yet though because the pulse arc igniters have been out of stock for months and I have no idea when or if they're returning, hence why I'm wondering if I can do this with only one. Also, if there are any problems with my setup that any of you can see potential problems with, please let me know. Feedback is greatly appreciated. You see, I like life and I would prefer not to encounter any......surprises. Please and thank you.
This is the arc igniter, from Amazon: 1 Pcs DC 5V-12V 15KV Pulse Arc Boost Coil Board High Voltage Generator Step-up Module Arc Igniter Coil Module
Hello, I just got my high voltage power supply I ordered, It is a Spellman X3000 E8 and It has a 15-pin D-sub connector as input. I tried to find a datasheet for It but I really can’t find find anything.
So, I’m wondering If anyone else got this power supply and If anyone got any information about it.
I did find someone on a forum who pasted all the pins but I’m really not sure If It’s true.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
So i found an old HV Transformer in a „bunker“ near me and the spark looks very cool but when i remove the cable the spark looks a bit more agressive (the metal of the screwdriver is sparking) and im wondering if it looks still like .5 ma.
Hi,
New the the TC world but wanted to make one for many years but for one reason or another never got around to it. Ive been doing some reading but would like some clarification on a few points please as i cant find a definitive answer.
When it comes to SSTC units what factors are used for the size of the secondary and the frequency. Trying to understand if size is just down to the number of turns needed or the frequency wanted.
Types of SSTC. basic SSTC, DRSSTC, QCW. Read that some types make quieter sparks than others that have that loud snap snap sound. Trying to understand the difference between the types vs the sound, spark types etc.
Types of streamers. I like the ways that SGTC look with the air dancing streamers and the odd few that hit the ground. Can this be done with SSTC.
With all that said what I would like to make is something with about 30cm max secondary just to keep it fairly small. Is it possible to have them make large streamers like whats in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWlDGUHWMXw and the more random wild sparks from other types.
Lastly an oscilloscope would be useful. Any suggestions on minimum spec requirements that wont break the bank.
Thanks
Why is the arc jumping at the wrong place?
Hehe
So I finally finished my staccato controller and at the time of testing all I had were a bunch of 800 volt scr's, I thought it would be enough because I see a lot of people use a 400 volt triac for 5kv and the scr worked fine at like 500 volts but just the tiniest bit over 1000 and the scr was like a dead short. Is it because it's an scr and not a triac, or am I doing something wrong.
update
i tried a bunch of triacs in a bunch of diferent configurationd but they all did the same thing. at low voltage it works as intended then at high voltage its a dead short and lower the voltage makes it go back to normal
Hi!
I'm lately seeing a lot of posts here that consists of little more than an image or short video and little else. And yes, sometimes this can be appropriate, if you're just spotting something fun and take a quick snap of it. And I get it, 'high voltage cool, hurr durr'. But we're all here to learn, and we all love picking up a few tips and tricks along the way when marvelling at your latest creation. So.. be kind, give us additional info when you're posting your projects. Circuit schemes are a nice start. Quirks and oddities you've come across during your build to make it work or improve it will give the rest of us something to keep in mind when working on similar projects. Special measures taken for safety might save the life (or at least the equipment) of an overeager experimenter that is trying to follow in your footsteps. Any bit of extra information will help the community. So.... please be kind and share your knowledge, rather than just showing it off.
Hello peeps! I'm a 9th grader in an international school and for my STEM project I'm planning on making a Tesla coil (well- a BaTesla coil in specific) but I don't get some stuff(other than studying some circuits I don't know electronic engineering at all) So, are there any tips for what to do before actually getting those materials and constructing it? Also, what do I need to know before building one? It would be really great if yall could answer it-Thanks!!! (Saw the BaTesla coil from the link below-please check if you don't know what it is) (The circuits are there too) https://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/article/April2014
_Bates#content-extras
Thanks!
Hello, I've asked something here last time and after redoing it with the big capacitors across my input (12V 1amp), the transmitter works! however, after experimenting with the receiver I noticed that when my capacitors and receiver coil are in resonance with my transmitter circuit a test load LED is dim while in comparison with just the coil itself (without caps) the LED is shining bright and my resistor (which was 1.2k ohms) is burned like charcoal! and the one with no caps heats the coil fast. This only tells me that the circuit is drawing so much current. I've asked gpt about it and one thing that clicked to me is that the one with no caps are acting as a low impedance load drawing so many power which is inefficient but I'm really not sure if it is the case and if that is inefficient. TYIA for enlightening me.
edit: apologies, i will add the circuit.
I'll get a staccato controller eventually
Double the current for fat powerful arcs.
I'm recently working on a wireless power transfer project, and I've come across various circuits about it and I basically modified one according to the available materials on our local electronics store. the image sums what I did. The problem is that when I plugged my power source on it and measure the input, I read 1.5V and at the output I measure just about 20mV or less which is so little to what I need to wirelessly transfer power. Additionally, the current reads 500mA. I am guessing that the problem concerns about the size of my choke inductors or I think it concerns about my power source, other than that I have no clue my it is not working. Your insights are highly appreciated, Thank you in advance!
Sick and tired of ZVS drivers putting out tons of white hot arcs but at "relatively low" voltage?
I was messing around with a H-bridge driver and found out that when you turn the switching frequency way up to 55KHz it produces a much higher voltage than any ZVS driver that I've ever seen. Can't recall if this flyback transformer came out of a TV or computer monitor but 55Khz really makes it angry.
Perhaps I could produce the same result if I could some how tune a ZVS driver to oscillate at 55KHz? what are your thoughts?
I recently got my hands on a massive full bridge and decide to have to fun with it.
The input to this module is rated for 300Vdc input (3 phase 208V rectified), I have no idea how much current it can switch but theres many many IGBTs mounted on a water block for cooling.
This module take 4 fiber optic inputs to drive the gates, all I had to do was to connect some red LEDs in parallel and anti-parallel then drive them with a positive/negative voltage square wave.
I was just feeding it around 40Vdc from my bench power supply and got some nice long arcs out of my flyback transformer. It was all fun until the flyback transformer got shorted internally.
Any ideas for what fun I could have with a huge H-bridge? SSTC? induction heater?
When I was 18, I made a typical ZVS flyback driver. I could never get it working even trying multiple mosfets. I put it away in my high voltage box only to dig it out recently, now 39 years old. I bought new IRFP260 mosfets and again, no results. I'd hear tiny static and then my power supply would always shut off. I tried more power supplies than I could count, including power tool battery packs. Finally, after all this time, I got beautiful arcs. Do not use switching power supplies. The circuit is so noisy that it almost immediately shuts off the power supply. I just used a big magnetic transformer, rectified, and filtered and finally achieved great arcs. Yay!
When I was 18, I made a typical ZVS flyback driver. I could never get it working even trying multiple mosfets. I put it away in my high voltage box only to dig it out recently, now 39 years old. I bought new IRFP260 mosfets and again, no results. I'd hear tiny static and then my power supply would always shut off. I tried more power supplies than I could count, including power tool battery packs. Finally, after all this time, I got beautiful arcs. Do not use switching power supplies. The circuit is so noisy that it almost immediately shuts off the power supply. I just used a big magnetic transformer, rectified, and filtered and finally achieved great arcs. Yay!
Hi!
I've currently got a GU81-M sitting on my workbench, and I'm finally working
on my first VTTC. The powersupply is a MOT with a doubler stage, so 2.1kV times
two, or roughly 4.2kV RMS which should be 5.9kV peak to peak.
As a grid load resistor it seems to have been common to just use a 100W incandescent
bulb, but seeing how those have gone the way of the dodo I'll have to make do with
power resistors mounted on a heatsink. The formula applying here seems to be
R=V/4I, with I being the anode current of my tube (0.6A) and V being the supply
voltage. So far so easy.
Except, there's precious little documentation out there, and my sources do keep
contradicting each other, with some using the RMS of the supply to calculate the
grid load resistor, while others use the peak value. In one case that'd be a
resistor of 1.75k, in the other 2.5k. And while I could just try whichever works
and start with the higher resistor, my gut feeling says I should use the lower RMS
value here?
I have 2 different mots, from different microwave owens. I dont see why it wouldnt work to connect them in series, but i saw someone saying that u cant do that(for some reason) so whats the reason? i would really like to know, and would be very gratefull for some equations or laws. Thank u very much.