I hope this is the best subreddit to ask this question, but I was wondering if the concepts “click” easily for you. I find electronics very interesting, however, I tend to struggle with concepts and I’m wondering if it’s worth pursuing? Appreciate any advice :)

MC6809C Swiss student kit

Hey there,
I've done some research but couldn't find much help regarding this FFC FPC Connector.
Is there a way to fix the broken part?
Would be the best bet to be to just hot glue it

https://preview.redd.it/0ulpq7yqnxyd1.png?width=417&format=png&auto=webp&s=6012b55bae6078f33061edf6ae7287575d8013c4

https://preview.redd.it/nggr58yqnxyd1.jpg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a6018b1e8897f7f6823a9a290332874d7ee8d4b

My doorbell camera has NO/NC powered by POE 12V. I would like to use either i.e. as and when someone presses the button I'd like to have this relay switch its state. The relay will be mapped into my home automation software such as SmartThings. Thus, I can receive a message on my phone that someone is at the door. Any help, appreciated.

I have a 74LS163 and 74LS191. I neeed to cascade them and have it stop at 18. How do I do that?

So I have this design, using a 4049 buffer IC, with multiple outputs that I want to adapt to just have one.

How should I wire any unused inputs and/or outputs, as to minimise any floating values or issues?

Somewhere, I read that you should ground any unused outputs. Is this correct? What about the inputs? Is it okay to leave them not connected to anything?

Thanks!

I have been looking at various impulse power supply ICs and most of the ones that I've found (e.g. MC34063A) require me to know a value of the "Forward voltage drop of the ringback rectifier" for the calculations. I asked both plain Google and Copilot about this value and neither have yielded any useful results. No such term in the "The Art of Electronics" either. What's even more confusing is the fact that this value is listed along the ones which are inherent to the IC itself, but I can't find its value anywhere in the datasheets. What is it exactly?

Edit: Datasheet in question: https://www.rcscomponents.kiev.ua/datasheets/MC34063A.pdf

Hi all im working on a pneumatic shifting project and I am currently in the hardware and code testing phase and have had some issues with double bouncing in the switches (I am using limit switches to switch the circuit). I tried coding it out however I run into the issue with the denouncing time in code is to long compared to the time required between shifts ideally the slowest is around 100-110ms but the faster the better. I tried adding in 2 100nf caps in line with the switches. However I believe this is to large since I can only get one shift and after this nothing happens. Any help would be appreciated thank you

Hello, I have a large button with a housing mechanism that holds and pushes on a micro switch as shown above, which is a spdt momentary switch. I would like to replace it with a 3pdt momentary switch, which needs to have the same body shape to fit in the button mechanism. The black lines are drawn above to suggest each pole is split into 3 poles instead. (I have once seen such a switch that is 2pdt and looked like the body shape is similar, but maybe slightly wider...)

I have not been able to find what I'm looking for, as most search results return the 3pdt switch for guitar pedals. Please help me find a listing of this exact switch. Thank you for your time.

Hi, I'm trying to design a lab power supply. Single output with constant voltage (max output voltage is gonna depend on the transformer I get but somewhere between 20V and 35V) and constant current (max output current is probably going to be 2A) modes. I have based it loosely off HP designs such as the E3610A.

Right now, I am only focusing on the voltage regulation. I know that if I only wanted voltage regulation there are simpler arrangements, but I am going to add CC as well. Below is the schematic so far:

Ignore the resistors on the right, they're not involved in the sim, and ignore the 'for loop testing' label

I am fighting issues with instability. Here is a plot of the output voltage (green) as the load (blue) is taken from 0mA to 2A and back to 0mA.

Vout and Iload for a changing load

It is hard to read so below are close ups of the rising edge and falling edge of the load:

Load rising

Load falling

As you can see, the rising load drops the voltage by 130mV, and the falling load creates a damped oscillation that peaks at 130mV above the set voltage. The former can be resolved by adding a ton of output capacitance (not my favourite idea).

To state my question plainly: How do I make this regulator more stable?

I have tried my best to do a stability analysis. I do not know what I am doing, but here is the supposed result of that:

This might be the closed loop gain if I did this right

Based on my limited understanding, I have interpreted this as giving me a phase margin of roughly 4 degrees, which is bad as far as I know. How can I improve this?

If you read this far, thanks, and I hope that someone can assist me with this.

I have a goldstar (LG) 9020g oscilloscope, its problem that it doesn't give any output , so I turn it off and then immediately on and it flashes for a brief second and then no output again :(

I am suspecting the hv circuit is malfunction , the problem is that I have a medical condition call HighVolt-Phobia and I don't know for sure how to test it without getting killed

My question

1- sources on the internet where someone explains how to deal with crt high voltage circuit (I want him still alive just to make sure 😀)

2- do you have any suggestions for the malfunction cause (maybe it is not the hv circuit) ?

3- channels where people fix similar things

4- general advice

5- THX A LOT <3

*There is 2 photos for my little device and the fast flash

Hi everyone. I have this PCB which is a hall-based potentiometer. The hall sensor is on the other side (3pins). It broke and after some testing with some youtube videos, this component seems to be faulty.
Could anybody tell me what is it ?

The 5 pins made it hard for me since I'm very new to electronics, but since it has a U it means IC, so could it be a MCU, voltage regulator, or what ?

Thank you in advance !

https://preview.redd.it/jmhwl33abwyd1.png?width=415&format=png&auto=webp&s=169f248c9ac9898081e6296211ff13991d68865a

Sorry for the blur, old phone, can't focus nicely.

I see that the 1st is Green but what is 2nd stripe? Red or brown?

And the 3rd looks like gold but it shouldn't be based from some value charts on the internet.

And the 4th stripe is gold that I know.

So what's the correct colors and what should it read ?

On 200 ohm setting it reads 6.8/6.9 but I'm new with resistors and don't really understand what is that 6.8.. ohm or kiloohms?

Hey all! I wanted to build an LED nightlight that uses a single 1.5V battery. Learned about the Joule thief circuit and figured that it’s all too boring and wanted to complicate things a bit. As a result, now I’m completely lost. So basically I wanted to make a 2 LEDs setup - a white and a yellow one. First one (white) will be lit when the battery is fresh, as it needs more voltage. Once the battery weakens and the output is not enough to power it, the first one turns off and the second (yellow) one should light up instead. It’s such a simple concept but I spent two days on it already and I’m going mad at this point. How do I do this? Any advice is appreciated

I'm trying to repurpose Dollar Tree solar lights to run electric motors instead of the LED light they are intended for, this is for a little hobbycraft to keep me busy during the colder months.

The little PCB has a YX8018C chip on it. (some pictures included below, sorry if a bit blurry). It has a 300 mah 1.2V NiCad rechargeable battery to power it.

I tried just removing the LED light and wiring a very small electric motor to it (I used a tiny tail rotor motor off of a cheap toy RC helicopter). The motor ran fine, but it would run regardless of whether here was light on the solar cell or not. My hope is that the motor would act like the LED light and only turn on once the solar panel no longer could detect light. Something about the LED is important to the light detection mechanism of the solar panel circuit.

I posed this question several months ago in a different forum, but one of the ideas involved using a $5 part. What I'm hoping to do is find a super cheap and easy way of getting this all to work. Maybe there's a part I can get that's under $2 or $1 that would fix this?

Also I'm a novice with electronics and soldering, so emphasis on the "easy" part.

I would appreciate any input. Maybe someone out there has already done something similar to what I'm trying to do and could give me some guidance :)

Thank you for your time.

bottom of pcb

Top of pcb with LED light removed with just the prongs remaining.

Can I utilise the 60w of the non genuine magsafe charger, along with the a dummy USB-C PD board that will pull 60w and output it, if I replace the tip to a USB-C as well?

Have I got the use of these devices correctly?

65W 8~30V DC to USB Type C PD 3.1 QC3 Fast Charge Step-Down Power Module Mobile Phone Quick Charge Adapter

Being the product description, but not what I was actually thinkin of initially. I did not know what to call it. I can find one in my kit if anyone wants to see?

I would assume that the DC input would be @ charger spec (16.5V 3.65A) making 60w for the laptop perfectly - I don't require more for any devices.

Can anyone tell me, if these boards are a permanent setting, and itll forever be a 60w output, or could I plug a phone in there, and it will negotiate its PD output needs? Again based on these chips or something very similar

It would be really handy to have a couple of portable chargers around the house!

Thanks for your assistance. Paradox

Need a little Help to find this SMD IC 3P Making is "E83J" Datasheet it on temp measure module

thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/mqd4ja8znuyd1.jpg?width=3559&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7b8b741f1f22b47878ef654802aa319e4819c13

https://preview.redd.it/3ka4b21gouyd1.jpg?width=1477&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8d79ea1f8765d7bf7a997d1bbdfcee7ef96d9c6