I'm taking apart a kids' saxophone VTech toy and I'm trying to read the data on the flash memory. Can someone help ID the circuit here? It's the one with the big Z. If that one isn't the flash memory then can you let me know which is? I can post more closeups if needed, I only have my phone camera though.

https://preview.redd.it/1bu0xncm7fge1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4982c9c99a5dbd32dfb88f6ba36d765e0086dd92

https://preview.redd.it/crc3nncm7fge1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e695e96bf70b3cd2ba80912499df8a6ac8c521d8

https://preview.redd.it/nkwjypcm7fge1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2d164d31cc6df91da2231cd48402bb9a8c0ddab

First time I see this.

I'm making an DIY quadrature encoder, using Sharp GP1S093HCZ photo interrupts, and while designing a pcb for them, i was wondering whether I should be filtering the outputs to get a clean signal, and if so, how. I'm connecting it to an Arduino right now.

I didn't find anything in the datasheet for it, and finding info on this topic is hard, and I'm not an electrical engineer(yet), so any advice is appreciated.

From the datasheet

hi guys, i'm an hobbyist in this field. now is 3 years that i'm doing simple hardware projects with devboards like esp32 and atmega2560, and i just started to dig a bit deeper about microcontrollers, and i'm trying to build my own dev board, more specifically, my own flight controller for a microdrone, like a toy one made with 3.7 volt lipo and micro dc motors. i've shared the schematic of this first "serious" project, and before thinking about the actual pcb, i was wondering if someone could check it before spending time on the pcb, i don't know anyone to asks this, and i prefer to have a sincere opinion about it before doing the pcb, order it, and finding out it's completely wrong, i have most doubts on the tp4056 part and with the manual switch before the ams1117 ( i hope the photoes are not that bad)

https://preview.redd.it/syzow5qwcege1.jpg?width=486&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9c6b92d0f5608dc922b55c67410890aa231d9b7

https://preview.redd.it/tq7ke1qwcege1.jpg?width=1183&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=129042e77c2f1db4310f68d173b2be175aee9935

https://preview.redd.it/48kfv0qwcege1.jpg?width=1257&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7bbc1c281967c793d7362ee3100741f1b78b83f2

Complete Schematic

https://preview.redd.it/4o6ewzpwcege1.jpg?width=471&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92930659fddaea522ae5e704a67b5ab5fb803e70

https://preview.redd.it/hwv041qwcege1.jpg?width=424&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1d02753965ab151936d38fc80d54594cc9e58e8

https://preview.redd.it/6ynrd3rwcege1.jpg?width=848&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f1498883da330f9b9aed24237c81855d1950dbef

https://preview.redd.it/6ohz68rwcege1.jpg?width=464&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48a04ce3491613fa665babdadb21948eddabb30e

https://preview.redd.it/ua8n90qwcege1.jpg?width=1298&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2192a10436f97376a1ed8fe9f7e4e329865cf386

https://preview.redd.it/n6eo6vrwcege1.jpg?width=525&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e20c0ba0a40497617a7899b570f78c61467385c0

I have only found an eBay source from China. 2-3 weeks delivery. I’d like to find a U.S. distributor. The usual places I would go either don’t list them or they say there no longer available. If there’s a substitute, I haven’t found it. Can anyone help or recommend a source or replacement. Thanks for any help.

We have to use a lot of expansive crimp tool for different connectors type: faston (c) TE, Mini-Fit(c) Molex, Microclasp (c) Molex and WR-WTB 2.00 (Wurth), etc.

I've seen cheap Chinese tools online, but I'm not sure if they can provide us with enough quality. There are often many really similar connectors from different brands, but brands usually do not claim compatibility with others. So if we want to buy and crimp compatible contacts, we should only use tools from the same brand, right?

I tried to find any IEC standard for the crimping profile, but I did not find it. Don't I want too much from this imperfect world? And I would like to hear anything from u/1Davide (thanks a lot to him for his https://connectorbook.com/ )

An example of a random crimping tool

I am designing a relatively large matrix of non-addressable RGB LEDs powered from a LiPo battery. Right now I have alternative design variations that use addressables so I am stepping up my battery voltage (nominal 3.7V) to 5V. However non-addressable LEDs do not have this limitation, so I could regulate at 3.3V or even 3.7V with an adjustable regulator.

My intuition tells me that brightness would depend on power, with higher voltages requiring less current and therefore it would not matter what voltage I run at from an efficiency standpoint. I haven’t been able to get a straight answer (hence me asking here) but online sources seem to indicate otherwise, and that higher voltage will just cause additional heat dissipation thus making lower voltages actually more efficient.

Is this true? Should I run at 3.3V? Will this cause issue with the blue LEDs, should I run at 3.7V for the minimal amount of power loss from my regulator? I understand that battery voltage is not constant throughout the discharge cycle, with actual voltage ranging from 2.4V - 4.2V.

This is the circuit Board of a Speaker, it only works on half Volume. Looks like the right conductor "Magic M3R3" got really hot. Could this bei the Problem? What Part is it? Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone, I've donde various pcb designs with a USB B connector, as it is easy to solder and provides a robust connection. But lately I've been thinking about finally using a usb c connector on a design.
Does anybody know about an easy to solder usb c connector that supports data communication? If it also supports any type of USBPD it would be amazing but it is not necessary
Thanks in advance

Could you please advise EasyEDA best free alternative that allows keep network via 0ohm resistor and define track without mask. I am using big 0ohm resistors (like 1206) as a bridge in order to avoid vias and keep PCB just a single layer, but this destroy DRC in EasyEDA since after resistor EasyEDA consider a new network. I also would like to have a way to define a track that will be not covered by solder mask - for high current track to strengthen it later by soldering.

Edit* cleared up some grammar and sloppy sentences.

I have this cheap battery operated led wire strip (you can find on Amazon under the name el wire). I made a sign using this led "wire" and now I want it to switch on when the sun goes down without me having to do anything else to it. I have found some tutorials on how to create a very basic on off switch using a light dependant resistor, a transistor and a few fixed resistors to power a single led on and off when the room light goes on and off...but can't figure out how to apply this to my el wire. The device is powered with 2 AA batteries.

My thought is this. Leave the current on off button but cut the positive and negitive wires between the battery pack and the led wire and just put the LDR and other components in between. Could it be this easy? Any help Is appreciated.

It seems that you can buy single/double sided perfboards in pretty standard sizes (e.g. 5cmx7cm, 7cmx9cm, 9cmx15cm). Why is it so hard to find standard enclosure/boxes for those standard size perfboards, with the molded in mounts perfectly aligned with the holes in the pcb?

I can't tell you how many times I've wired up a circuit and then need to put it into an enclosure, I order one, and then I'm trying to cut and drill my completed perfboard to fit inside, or else I'm drilling custom standoffs inside because the one molded into the case doesn't fit.

Has anyone found a good source of little ABS enclosures that have mounting for standard perfboards?

I need to create drawings and document some custom cables/harnesses. I've done this in the past with MS Visio or Kicad. But neither are the right tool for the job. The professional industrial standard software are all too cost prohibitive. I don't usually need to update the drawing after initial design, except if a connector goes obsolete and I update to alternate P/N. Hard to justify subscription model for this kind of usage.

Something with a one-time perpetual license, or something I can continue to use standalone and just not get any updates, would be ideal. I'd like to at least be able to open the files 10+ years down the road regardless if the software company exists, so no cloud type software.

What do you guys use?

Recently, I was assigned with a task to create some form of project using LM 741 IC or 555 Timer IC or both. Can someone help me with some ideas that I can build (preferably easy ones) It should be able to be demonstrated without using any other devices.. like CRO.

Thank you In advance

I'm planning to take a bunch of 400V rated electrolytics capacitors and connect them in series to achieve a max voltage capacity limit of ~3000V for a DIY TIG welder with arc autostart capability and since those capacitors are relativelly big what are the none idealalities I need to consider for safety(mainly them to phisically blowing up) when doing this?

Is this even a viable idea?

https://preview.redd.it/p3al9bjb3dge1.jpg?width=2936&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c02d00f0782f861dd9c808b465f924ae6832ed66

The device is a Dunkermotoren BGE 6010.
There are 3 connectors:
- A 2x6 pin connector
- A 2x7 pin connector
- A 6 pin connector

Between each pin in a row, the distance is about 3.5mm
Between the rows the distance is 2.54mm.

https://preview.redd.it/wq668p2j3dge1.jpg?width=868&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9899c5756b82c0fecf1b561b87ad06968de6c26

For the dual-row connector, there is some kind of reverse polarity protection:

According to the datasheet ( https://www.haydonkerkpittman.com/-/media/ametekhaydonkerk/downloads/products/drives/manual_brushless_motor_drive_bge3515_bge6010.pdf?la=en&revision=fb641082-c1f8-4dc1-979f-315ecbe835c1&hash=DB206C32A6A6990A1132F79C4B3B1E8C )
the single-row connector pins have a cross-section of up to 1.5mm^2, the dual-row pins have up to 1mm^2.

I found on ebay the successor of the motor driver, with some kind of adapter:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186481989319

Which might be similar to this product: https://www.phoenixcontact.com/de-at/produkte/leiterplattenstecker-dfmc-05-6-st-254-1844617
But the distance between the pins is not the right one.

Does anyone know the name of the adapter or the connector?

So I'm making a guitar pickup and I need a soldering iron to melt the copper wire on the bobbin. The problem is that I don't have one of those. Also I have no clue how to use one, but be assured I won't be alone and I will do the proper research as to not cause an early death. 🔥 = 💥 = ☠️

I know this is may be far fetched but I doubt I use it more than 16 singular times (unless I mess up but I added 8 to the ideal number for the inevitable.

I see some soldering irons go up to 800F which mathematically isn't enough to melt copper which is almost 2000F so I don't want to order a 10$ one from Walmart and it not be of any use and also probably blow up in my hand resulting in me having a pirate hook for a hand, although that would be pretty freaking cool. Thanks!

First off let me say that I have done a bit of research on this and understand USB C extension cables in general are a no-no largely due to the e-marker and communications involved to negotiate safe power transfer.

I have a potential future project where I'll be using a Radxa Rock 5B+ SBC but ideally the PD power input would be migrated to a project box and kept as a female port. The board is only capable of a max of 25W consumption if memory serves.

Where one of the main concerns comes into play is my soldering is pretty basic and tiny surface mount stuff is out of the question. Otherwise I could get a type C breakout board from Adafruit or the like and just run the VBUS, GND, and CC1/2 pins across with good wires capable of the load and call it a day.

The second thought was somehow doing almost the same but figuring out how to do my own 'extension cable' with a type C male plug at one and and female at the other. Whether that's butchering a premade cable capable of that amperage to get the male connector or find a type C male breakout board (ideal) and go from there.

The only question marks in my head, especially if utilizing a premade cable, is that e-marker chip in the cables and how that may bite me in the butt. Ideally from a very generalized POV I'd like to eliminate any such interference between of the SBC and my outboard female type C port, leaving it to whatever external cable/supply is being used and just ensure to use sufficient quality/gauge wiring internally that will handle any potential loads.

Any ideas? Does any of this make sense or is sound to folks here?

Hi there friends!

I received the Asus ROG Strix B550-F recently from a friend, they plugged the incorrect cable in and when they switch it on it blew the component in the photo. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction of identifying it please. I searched for 15k29 but didn't come up with anything.

I also noticed that another small component potentially blew off as well but I can't tell for certain if it was unpopulated. To me it seems as if there was a component there prior.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you 😊

I’ve come down to the Hakko FX888DX-44BY and the pinecil v2. This is my first soldering iron and I don’t have too much space on my desk and have heard great things about the pinecil model. But I’ve heard people complaining about being restricted on their way to hold it due to the controls on the tool itself. Also where do you get the rest of your electronics equipment from eg. Work mat, helping hands, solder, fan etc. Thank you.