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To the right of the engine on a 1990 ford ranger. What’s this part?

I will cashap someone 5 dollars for answers, I just got a 2002 ford ranger and I want to know everything I need for a sick build!.

My parents are saving up money to get me a car, but they haven't decided what kind yet. I'd love a 1986 model, but I'll take anything, preferably a pickup truck. What's a cheap but reliable model that I should be able to convince them to get me?

Hey all! Looking to get my 3rd ford ranger tomorrow and I couldn’t be more excited. I miss having a danger ranger in my “fleet.” I’m driving 2 and a half hours tomorrow to look at this 2003 5speed 2.3 liter with 154,xxx miles. The only main problem with it is the power steering isn’t working. The seller states he daily’s it still without the PS, but I’m really curious to see if yall know what’s going on with it. The only info I have on it is a screenshot from the video of seeing it run where you can obviously see PS Fluid all over the engine bay. Think a hose sprung a leak? Let me know please!

Whenever I turn my wheel either direction I hear a click or two theyre almost not noticeable, I thought it was the dash at first but I’m almost certain it’s the steering wheel anybody know why/what I need to do?

Also if anybody knows why my brakes click whenever I brake I’d appreciate it, the abs sensors are fine no lights are popped up and the brake fluids all good but it does almost feel like it wants to push my foot off when it clicks which I’m not sure means

Hi all! As the title says, I have a '96 and I can't seem to remove the cover for the blinker light. It's blown and I want to change it before I get pulled over. I removed the 2 screws, but the side closest to the bed isn't budging. I don't want to force it and break it. Any ideas?

Without having to sit and do a bunch of trial and error does anyone know the color scheme for this connector?

Found a two bulb tail light harness off a 2000 ranger for my 98 ranger to repair the chopped main harness on my truck. But if someone could link me a wire diagram for a 2000 so I can get some functional lights going.

So I’ve wanted a Ranger for a while now and I finally got one as my first car. Had it for a month now. I spent all year working full time to afford it. It’s a 2007 4x4 with a 4L V6 and automatic transmission. The check engine light came on right after I got it and the code is P0446 (EVAP system vent valve). My research tells me 15mpg is normal for city so I’m wondering if the EVAP system could have that much of an impact on gas mileage

I adjusted the position of my seat and steering wheel today(2020 Ford Ranger lariat) and when I lifted the steering wheel I noticed what looks like 2 dish sponges under it. What would be the purpose of this and should I take them out? If it's replacing some other sort of part does anyone know a part number? 2020 Ford Ranger lariat

I got in the cab and when i opened the door the light was on and the dash lights came on when I advanced the key forward. When I went to actually start it there is a click then everything died. I tried jumping it but did nothing and then after it sat with ought jumper cables on the lights came back on but still clicked when I went to start it. Any ideas of the issue?

Picked it up for $3k from a lovely elderly woman who no longer needed it. Needs some new tires, seatbelts, and the horn doesn’t work. But at 181k miles I couldn’t pass it up.

I went to the new car auto show in my city and poked at a Tacoma, Colorado and Ranger. Based on my research they all really aren't that far apart in in specs or performance. The ranger just clicked for me. Anything I should be looking at? I'm leaning towards the V6.

I have a 1989 ford ranger and I was just wondering if it’s normal to that my exhaust gives off a lot of a lot of smoke(it’s my first car and I don’t know much about old trucks)

Look my 2002 b2300 (150,000 *KM*) into the shop for an oil change. They found a big gas leak with fuel dripping all over the exhaust and leaking along to the front of the frame. When pumping gas it also shuts off every few seconds. Anyone else experience this?

Yes title. TL;DR did some research and a relearn is not talked about much past trying to fix codes that appear afterwards. I got the tab on the synchronizer to within an almost unnoticeable distance of where it was originally. No codes, oil pump seems to be working, but truck feels a tiny bit different, almost like the parking brake is lightly engaged. Maybe it's just me, but can the ECM account for very minute changes in it's position or is a relearn necessary? And can I do that without an expensive scan tool or am I going to have to bite the bullet finally?

2001 3.0, 155K Miles if anyone is interested

Hello fellow Ranger folks. I could have placed this in a general vehicle sub but I figured there is enough minute differences between all cars that could have these same components that it would be best to do it here instead since you all know what you are doing.

Long story; I got a good Ranger and have been fixing it up the past year and a half doing all sorts of stuff for it. Did a lot of research and found out some common problem areas that I would need to watch out for, since I am paranoid about taking care of my possessions, one of which being the Camshaft Synchronizer and read all about it, deducing that it's basically the tradeoff for having an almost non-existent "timing chain" and a non-interference engine. I bought one ahead of time since I found the Motorcraft made-in-USA one for sale and stored it away, because I wanted to do it after I put in some more useful aftermarket gauges and get a proper diagnostic scan tool, because if this thing runs the oil pump I'm not taking any chances.

Well time got ahead of me and I never got around to all that extra stuff. Of course the other night driving home from town I hear a chirp that sounds distinctly different than the belt normally does from the top rear passenger-side of the engine, and immediately knew the time had come. I briefly thought I could just put some oil on the top to lubricate the bushing thing to buy time, but it's a dangerously vital engine component and I had the new one that I soaked and pre-lubed with oil already so I didn't want to screw with it.

Funny story, everyone will gladly tell you how exactly to do this job, and how easy it is, but literally no one tells you about the tiny things, like how it's position gives you zero leverage (I had to lay on top of the engine), and how it will fight you tooth and nail trying to get it to go in exactly as you want it to, despite the fact it only has 16 teeth on it.

See, I did the "Copy the spot the tab is in on the old one and just put it in that position". Sure, simple stuff. I made a dozen marks, took a dozen pictures, and gave myself tons of light. An hour and a half later and for some reason it is just not wanting to go in right enough for my mind. It was always off just enough to irk me. I'm talking less than 1/16 of an inch at most; the teeth were in the right area, but the housing absolutely did not want to turn just that extra little bit and still seat back into the block; it was either a full eighth of an inch forward, or back to the other spot that I wasn't quite feeling even if it looked right on the mark.

It was getting dark, and eventually I just cut the losses to my sanity and got it as right as possible. Started it up to verify oil pump was working (the dummy gauge popped up and the oil was splashing on the dipstick at least) and left it for another day.

I decide to check it again before driving into work today and everything still seems fine, but it feels different. Normally it can push itself up the driveway hill without touching the gas but now it just sat there, and giving it gas went but it felt like the parking brake was engaged slightly (which I verified was not on because it could roll). It felt this way the entire way into town. Drove it around the back roads a bit doing some errands and it didn't change. It starts and sounds fine, though feels a tad bit more uneven (it's had an uneven idle since I got it, I surmise a vacuum leak but it never affected how it ran so I filed it for "another day"), but maybe thats me since I am hypersensitive to problems when fixing things, born of a constant stream of solutions that aren't immaculately perfect creating more problems throughout my life. Still no codes.

As mentioned I was going to wait to get a proper diagnostic tool before doing this explicitly for things like this, but that never happened because I did a bunch of other stuff first and have to budget for it again, and I wasn't going to risk driving it around while the synchronizer was threatening to give out, so I just threw it in before I really wanted to. I just need some help/verification here because this engine is in very good condition and I rather not screw it up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Some context:

I bought a 02 ford ranger 4L v6 recently where the key would need to be put in the ignition just the right way to start but when I found that spot it would start up just fine first try.

After inspecting it I realized the ground wire for the starter was grounding out on the oil pan, I promptly moved it over and it seemed the problem was resolved. I have no clue how long the bare wire was touching the metal.

A week later I noticed the same “sweet spot” issue and just assumed the starter was the issue so changed the starter and still the problem persisted.

The relay is new and the fuse is not blown.

Could it be the ignition cylinder or switch? I’m really hoping it’s not the actuator.

Has anyone had this issue?

Hey guys, I have a 2001 3.0 v6. I don't know much about engines.

Checked the fluids and it was half a gallon low on coolant ( hadn't check it in awhile) after driving it some i could smell and see small amounts of coolant in random places but can't pin point the area. And it needed half a gallon more. This black thing with the hoses is sweating a ton but not sure if that's the cause? I let it warm up and drove it today a few miles without the ac on and couldn't find or smell any coolant leak. Appreciate any info you guys might have. I know it's not much to go on

I have a 2006 extended cab with 4wd. When I’m in 4 and the wheel is at full turn in either direction it will shudder and kind of stop in its tracks unless I mash the gas. It only happens when I’m in 4wd too. Is my transfer case fucked? Or is it my axles? If I can find a video I’ll edit the post