Some help would be appreciated. I’ve never really messed with electrical before. I ensured to kill off the power completely from the switch board and that it’s safe to touch. I got everything assembled. I still don’t understand much of what wires are supposed to go together.

My ceiling has a black, white, and copper wire.

The fan has a black, white, green, and an additional green wire attached to a screw on the rod.

Thanks in advance.

Replacing a main panel in one of the barns on my property. How do I know what what’s neutral and what’s hot coming from the main coming in? Only things powered off this panel is the septic pump, heated horse waterer and the outlet to the left. (Installing a square D breaker panel in it’s place)

First time doing my own electrical, and would love input and advice!

For some context currently these two rooms have a switch that powers a receptacle(the one labeled in the drawing). I figure I’d get a 3 gang and use one of the spots to just make it constant. I really want to avoid tearing up the wall in this house and I figured this one was the best way to go about it but I’ll take input! This drawing will be for my permit application.

So I am cost estimating a proposed development for a high end 42 house subdivision in the middle of nowhere Texas. The property is absolutely gorgeous with 100’ elevation changes and drastic cliffs. I spoke to the power company and the closest power line is 4 miles away and single phase. The power company said that we would need to pay to upgrade the existing single phase line to 3 phase and run 3 phase overhead into the development. The property is 240 acres and the power company said we would need to run 3 phase loop feed system(s) due to the elevation changes not supporting overhead and all houses being 300 amp service. Each lot would have enough room for a secondary residence and a pool and would be on an aerobic septic system. When I conveyed this info to the developer the guys flipped shit and demanded to know why we couldn’t just run single phase power. I’m not an electrical engineer, just and estimator. I always go with what the power companies tell me that they need to do to provide service. Has anyone else encountered a power company wanting to do a buried 3 phase loop feed system before on residential? Side note. We will have two public water supply wells that require 3 phase power.

I have a Siemens electrical panel with a diagram that seems to allow tandem circuits. Is it safe to use tandem circuits in this panel? This is an old panel, so I'm not sure if I'm reading the diagram correctly.

https://preview.redd.it/26hzt3sllb7e1.png?width=374&format=png&auto=webp&s=cd101df863ef3308cffd4bb61a225e13bea2ec95

Was hoping to get some feedback. I'm a diy guy and have done basic 101 wiring. Plugs, light Installs, etc. I hit a road block on a light i was wiring in. I called my electrician but he is about to be moving into his new house so has no time for me. Trying reddit for help. So I wired in a new bedroom light to the existing 2 gang switch box. 1 switch in the box is a 3 way and controls the back spotlight which the other 3 way switch is in kitchen. These switches are on the kitchen light circuit. The 2nd switch in that box I was planning to use for the bedroom light. This switch just had the 14/2 wired directly(w and b on switch) which this is on the bedroom circuit. I figured that was just coming from an outlet and ended there. I wired in the new bedroom light and tied it to this switch(tied whites together and blacks to the toggle switch). For the life of me I can't figure out what I'm missing. All the grounds were originally tied together and I'm thinking maybe I'm doing something wrong with the neutrals? Maybe I screwed up and spilt the neutrals and should combine them even though the switches are fed from different circuits? Curious if someone can figure out if 1. what I explained made sense, haha and 2. Knows what I might be missing. Attaching a chicken scratch picture. One other side note, I got the 3way wired and that's working, but only if the toggles are in a certain position. That might be totally unrelated but thought Id mention it. Thank you for reading my book! 😃

So I'm inherenting my grandmother's old townhouse/condo and it's in decent shape. It does need a little bit of work though. The first day I went to see it, my friend brought her son along who is a level below a journeyman?

Anyways my friends son took one look at the fuse box and said it was bad news and definitely needed to be replaced. Picture provided.

Just wanted to get some outside opinions and see if y'all thought that it needed to be replaced or if it could stay.

I had a home inspector come by and look the place up and down and he also mentioned that the fuse box probably needed to be replaced and it looked like it had aluminum wiring. I have zero clue what aluminum wiring can mean in regards to the condition of the electrical system in a home.

I'm going to be bringing a lot of electronics into the home. 3 or 4 TVs, video game consoles, multiple computers, and a lot of other stuff. The woman that lived here after my grandmother moved out, lived by very simple means and probably never even looked at the fuse box.

So if you've made it this far thank you for reading my essay. I appreciate any and all help.

My garage has its own 100 amp service separate from the house with its own 100 amp Cutler Hammer panel box. Last year, my wife got me two fan forced air electric heaters for the garage so I can work out there in the winter. It's a four bay garage, two in the front, two in the back, so one heater per side. The recommended breaker size per the heater manufacturer is 50 amps. I used 8 gauge wire for the heater closest to the breaker panel, 6 gauge for the heater furthest from the panel, mostly because I still had enough left over from when I wired up our hot tub.

So I wired everything up, flipped the breakers on, turned the heaters on and everything seems good. I let them run for a bit to see how they work. Went in the house for about 20 minutes, went to open the garage door with the opener, and neither door would open. So I go out, open the man door, lights are out, heaters are silent. Check the panel. The main 100 amp breaker is tripped, both 50 amp heater breakers and the 50 amp hot tub breaker arent tripped. I flipped the main breaker back on and it stayed on, but it felt warm.

I chalked it up to the 100 amp breaker not being able to handle the two heaters while the hot tub is running it's heater. So I turned on one heater and let the hot tub run. Everything stayed on and seemed good. I was out there for a few hours and the main breaker didn't trip again.

This year, we moved the hot tub closer to the house, so it's now wired to the 200 amp house panel. This weekend, I went out to the garage to do some clean up and turned both heaters on. I went in the house to round up some recycling and tried to open the garage door with the opener. Nothing. I go in the man door and again, the lights are off, the heaters are off, and the main 100 amp breaker is tripped and warm. So I turned on one heater after I reset the main breaker. Went back in the house for a little bit, came back out a little while later, and again, the lights are out and the heater is off. Main breaker tripped.

So, to make a long story short, do breakers get weak over time and trip before their rated amperage or do I just have this 100 amp main overloaded with these two heaters? If one heater isn't tripping it's 50 amp breaker but the 100 amp main is, I have to think that the main can't handle it's rated amperage. What do you guys think?

I was washing dishes just now and, suddenly, all the lights on the main floor (primarily the living room) began to turn on and off very quickly. It lasted about 45 seconds. This happened much more briefly last week, for about 5 seconds, and seemed to b isolated more to the kitchen).

Afterwards, the air conditioning fan turned on (the outside unit did not turn on) even though we have the system set to Heat. There is a very strong smell of ozone in the living room and the breaker for that room had tripped (living room lights were on but the TV and AV system was not, so that must be what's on that breaker: it's a power strip with a bunch of devices plugged into it).

Is this more likely to be a utility/service issue, or do I need to get an electrician in here to check out all my wiring? Is this a critical issue? Can I confidently leave the breaker on or should I shut it off until tomorrow when I can call someone?

how to install a fan that has three wires black, white and blue to a socket that only has black and red wires pls help

Hello, the answers to this question will be all over the place depending on your location, lifestyle, and number of people in the house. But I’m curious what others electricity usage looks like. Family of four here, both kids under 10. I work from home but that mostly consists of laptop and phone, and I really don’t have anything else on during work hours. In Midwest, and month of October usage is 100kwh.

EDIT: just came back on and realized I type 100, not 1100. My October usage is 1100 kWh. Wish it was 100 for the bill, lol

I’ve encountered these MR 16 can light fixtures a few times but I’ve never installed them. Since the MR 16s bulbs are 12V I know there’s a transformer somewhere. My question is, where are these transformers located? Are they generally going to be like in the ceiling right next to each can or are they usually going to be like at a central location along with a bunch of other Transformers for the house? I know I’ve seen some MR 16 track lights and the Transformers were like right above the bulb on the rail.

I was checking out a fixture like this one pictured at one house. I removed the can and I don’t believe I saw any transformer in the ceiling. Or is there gonna be one transformer in the ceiling next to one of those light fixtures that powers the rest of the light fixtures in the room and I just didn’t happen to take a look at the right one? This home was a higher end home though, and it had those panel light switches with like 8 buttons that power, different lights in the room. So I’m not sure if that changes where the transformer will be located. I wasn’t able to take down the can for the light fixture in the picture sorry I wasn’t able to see if there was a transformer in the ceiling. Any information on this will be immensely appreciated!!!

So basically I(a 15 years old guy in 10th grade living in Canada) had a talk with my family about what I should become in the future. They always say things like "u have to choose what you want to become".
And tonight we talked about what I want to be I said Electrician long story short they were against Be becoming one. They said things like "It's very hard on the body" "the pay isn't good".

I wanted to see what you guys thought should I pursue the path of an electrician? Is the pay good? Union or non union? Where should I go after high-school, College, Uni, trade school? What does an electrician path look like?

Do I need good math and science grades for it? I'm alright at math and science,  I'm taking cultural math and not science math(basically base math and not advance math) I'm also taking regular science and not extra science, will that cut it to be an electrician? If yall have any advice/recommendation of any type plsss don't hesitate to reply.

I have no idea what I’ve done wrong. Tried this twice now with 2 different brand smart home type light switches with the same result.

I install the switch, flip the breaker on, and the light it’s supposed to control turns on instantly and the switch has no control over it, so I can’t turn it off or on.

Although the switch has power… because it’s a smart switch so everything lights up and such.

I’m a framer by trade and do a VERY small amount of electrical.

The picture is my setup lol, hopefully it’s not too embarrassing… please help me Reddit I want to have a smart light switch!

I am looking to add an ERV (163w, 2.5amp, 11-120V) in my attic and found an outlet on the light fixture there. Is it safe to plug in the ERV there for a few months?

https://preview.redd.it/r49e6fd5wa7e1.jpg?width=522&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4caf860278b8fc9678dd9f5225e67442d3a1a150

My wife just bought a bottle washer from US that has 120v~ 60hz power, our country uses 240v 50hz outlet.

When we use the washer first time the heating pad works but after using it second time it doesnt work. I just realise the voltage and frequency differences after reading the manual.

So is it likely that the heating pad overheat and is damage from drawing too much power ? Or can it still be saved ?

Getting a transfer switch installed, trying to decide what to get??

EDIT: I have an Ecoflow Pro w a 30a plug; and an 8500/10500 generator w a 50 a plug

Need to be able to run 240

Recently moved into a new house. Wife likes the old school Edison style lightbulbs. We buy the LED ones and historically they work great. However in our bathroom months after installing one, they start to flicker/go out. The bulb still works when I test it in another lamp in the house it’s just these fixtures.

Any thoughts on what to look for on how to fix this? (Assuming I open the fixture up)

Apologies in advance if this is the wrong place for homeowner/DIY questions. Just thought I’d get more sound advice here.

We had some work done on our house and during the process we removed two ceiling fans and want to replace with simple flush mount dome lights. In the light switch box there is a bare wire, white wire, and a black wire, but in the fixture box there is a bare, white, black, AND red wire? Is the extra red in the ceiling specific to the fan that was there? Do you just cap the red and attach the other three to their respective matching colors?

Edit to add: there is only one switch and one fixture in each room.

I've been researching the NEC code on kitchen island receptacles. Many of the forums suggest that only one manufacturer makes an approved receptacle for counter tops.

Of course when I google approved receptacle every Tom, Dick and Harry say their receptacle is approved.

Can someone please tell where to get a receptacle that is going to pass inspection? I'm in East Tennessee.