My kitchen pipe is shocking me, the thing is if go’s under ground so shouldn’t it be grounded?

So I had a serious problem this weekend and my breaker panel kept tripping. I had an electrician out to see what the problem was. He quoted me 10,000 for the panel, grounding, wire to the meter. Is that a fair price? He said it would take him 2 days to do it right and meet code.

Just like the title says. When I run my washer it trips the breaker in the bedroom and the washer stays on (untripped). Any idea how an appliance could trip a breaker it's not even on?

Hey! I’m trying to replace my flatmate’s light fixture but we can’t figure out how to remove the wires from the wire connector. We’ve pushed and pulled the tabs on it, to absolutely no avail :( thanks in advance for the help!

Hi all,

I am swapping from a florescent light fixture to an LED light fixture. Issue I am having is that the house wires are red, black, white, and copper and the LED fixture is black, white, and green (and dimmer wires that I am not using). So what do I do with the red wire?

Edit:

• Switch A OFF / Switch B ON
  • Red 120
  • Black OFF
• Switch A ON / Switch B ON
  • Red 120
  • Black 120
• Switch A ON / Switch B OFF
  • Red OFF
  • Black 120

A couple of days ago, I touched the metal case of our record player (it was turned off) and received a tingly shock. I called my electrician to come look at the plug, and they have me scheduled in December. Last night I went to make some bread in a bread machine, and when I touched the metal outside case, another shock. This is on a different outlet. After touching other metal things I also received a shock on the computer tower my kids use. I’ve left a message with the electrician but likely won’t hear back until Monday.

The house was built in 1924. Knob and tube wiring was upgraded in the 50s or 60s. Not sure if there’s any grounding, as the majority of outlets are for two prong plugs.

How worried should I be? I know nothing about electricity, and both shocks have been mild, but I’m wondering how dangerous this is, and why it might be happening.

Edited to add: it’s a continuous shock and seems to be happening on only one level of a two story home

Helping my brother renovate an old house that he bought that was built in the late '40s to early '50s. All of the lights are on a switch loop and instead of the hot being switched, it's the neutrals. Is this an old school way of doing things? Why would it have been done this way? It was easy for me to switch them around to a switched hot because they were all wired as a switch loop when I was wondering why it would have been done that way in the first place. Just curious.

Hey guys

The lights on my basement circuit include a few fixtures that are outside. One fixture is not needed and I want to safely cancel the wires to it, but preserve them if ever I want a fixture there in the future.

The switch is off, and I have capped both wires and placed them in this weatherproof box.

Is this acceptable? And is it safe ? If not, what would be considered acceptable ?

Thanks in advance.

Hi all,

I’m replacing a ceiling fan (light + fan) with a flush-mount light. From the ceiling is a copper wire, white wire, red wire, and black wire. I connected red and black to the live wire (which I thought is how the fan was connected) and the white wire to the light’s neutral wire. But when I turn the power back on, the light stays on and the switch doesn’t work. I’ve tried leaving the red wire unconnected (with a wire nut on it) but still when we turn the power on the light stays on and the switch doesn’t work.

What am I doing wrong here?

Thanks a bunch in advance!

Need to replace insulation and air seal my attic, but the electrical is also ran via the attic. The attic has tons of junction boxes on the floor, and not enough wire for all of them to be placed hire than new insulation. How should this be solved? Here's a small example. The boxes shown have been swapped out to be covered and properly connected but it still doesn't change the fact new insulation would bury them

Have an EV (Mach e for the win) and want to add a post and pedestal to charge in my driveway. It’s a straight shot from my house where the power is, and my power comes in overhead. I’ve call 811 anyways to have them come out and mark, though it’s an old farmhouse on an acre and assume it’s a waste of time.

I’m comfortable wiring the 240 60 amp direct wire and I’ve dug half a mile of water line 18 inches down in the past, mostly by hand.

What makes me nervous is that a buried line runs to my garage, as does a water line, and a sewer line back to the main septic. How do people find or avoid these? My understanding is 811 won’t help, since it’s private. Do people just turn off the power and go slow? Private locator? Can they find what I assume is PVC plumbing?

Any advice appreciated

The previous owner of our house a) loved X-10; and b) did at least some wiring himself. (He was a contractor and, AFAICT, did some portion of the construction.) As a result, there are a number of places in the house where the wiring is just bonkers -- there are switch boxes with a single three-strand wire coming in and nothing coming out, because all the box needs to do is send an X-10 signal. We, on the other hand, hate X-10. The switches are expensive and brittle, and it rarely works the way I want it to. I work with computers and at the end of the day I don't want my light switches to also be computers, I want them to just work. So where it's been possible, we've tried to replace X-10 switches with normal ones.

There are a few places where we have X-10 switches in need of replacement but they're part of three-way switching. I'm looking for the simplest possible way to find and confirm if proper three-way wiring is in place so that I can replace the X-10 switches, but I'm not sure what all needs to be checked. I own a volt meter and other basic tools, but nothing fancy like a tone generator. Any tips? TIA.

i have a small heater (my dog chewed the cable) i touched it and it gave me shock on hand (it had water )

im starting to feel tingles

I'm trying to replace a 3-way switch with a smart 3-way switch in my home (this is a new build, so new electrical). The 3-way controls some exterior entryway lighting.

I opened up one light switch and successfully replaced it with the smart switch. Everything still worked fine. When I opened the other switch that controls the light as well I was surprised to find a 'single pole switch' and not a 3-way. There's a black and red from one romex into the top labeled 'in', and a black and red from another into the part labeled 'out'. The white wires between the two romexs are nutted together.

I'm confused, how is the single-pole working with the 3-way? Wouldn't the hot get broken and the 3-way switch not work when the single pole is in the off position? That's not the case from my testing.

I was playing on my pc yesterday and when my father plugged the Christmas lights for our Christmas tree some of our appliances suddenly turned off and my pc is one of them. While other appliances still work, some of our lights don't work too or some of the outlets don't work too does anyone know what happened in this problem?

We always have had a fridge in the garage and we just got a large freezer as well. Maybe two separate 15 amp circuits would be better?

10 gauge* not 8!

Hi all, I’d appreciate some help. I’ve noticed the fuse box of my boiler has burnt out. I’ve removed the plastic cover and replaced the fuse with a new one to get the boiler to work but I’m not sure if it’s safe. The box inside is burnt.

I’m planning to call my landlord and get an electrician to check it but I’m going to travel in a few weeks so I’m wondering if I can keep it like this for now, remove the fuse when I’m away and then call the landlord when I’m back.

Do you think it’s safe to do so?