I've got a 24 pictures and 12 pictures film, b&w, expired since at least 20 years. Should I try to put two of them in the same spiral or it's not worth it?

Is there a limit to the size of film that can go into a paterson tank for development. I've used it before for 20mm but never for 8mm and was just wondering if there is some special way I need to load it.

Hi y'all

So far I have only developed in rodinal and am quite happy with the process and the outcomes.

Now I have shot some kentmere400 and fomapan100 — both pushed to 800 basically because light is sparse at this time of year and it is something I have been wanting to try.

Now I've been reading on misc forums that one should stay away from rodinal for this kind of push development.

And I am left wondering - why?

Sending a roll off to The Darkroom for processing. I thought it was ISO 400 but realized it was 100 after opening the camera. I've never had development pushed or pulled. Should I get them to push it somewhere around +2?

Has anyone ever tried taking some of their own blood and adding it to the process when developing a roll of film. I doubt the results would look nice. But for an artistic purpose I was thinking of trying it.

This is not be be a self harm sort of thing but just a random thought I had.

Every dark room I’ve ever worked as always had black walls. I get it it makes total sense if you’re going to have a dark room to have black walls. But the room in my basement I’m going to use as a dark room/loading chamber doesn’t have black walls. I can’t imagine that I truly blacked out dark room with no light leaks should really matter if the walls or any color. I just want the general consensus on how crucial this is. The things I’ll be handling in the room won’t be raw film.I will be cutting down black and white paper to fit into my cameras as well as x-ray film. I have a very dim dark light and I can always pointed in the corner.

I’ve been making rc prints the past year for a project, more for editing purposes than anything else. Should I go back and selenium them all so they last a bit longer? Will selenium increase the longevity of my rc prints, even after the fact?

Has anybody else seen this modification, or is this actually stock? My Jobo CPP2 lift has a brass sleeve for the transfer gears.

The machine was with Mr. Seynsche in Berlin in 2015 and had an upgraded motor installed, so I assume he also added the brass sleeve for better wear resistance?

Hi folks! Just recently shot a roll of 500T respooled for photography, pushed to 1600. The canister is labeled as 500/800iso, and I'm aware that when the remjet is removed it's usually rated at the higher ISO.

I'm now looking to get it developed somewhere, with most labs offering either +1 or +2 stops. However I'm worried that if the 500iso rating is more correct, +1 stops may result in slightly underdeveloped shots, but +2 would be slightly too much if 800 is more accurate.

Ideally I'd do it at home myself but don't often shoot colour so for now it's easier with a lab.

I'm really looking for recommendations, do you reckon +1 stop developing would be enough? Or should I go for +2?

Any advice is massively appreciated! Cheers 😁

I have some expired vision 3 250 which was not refrigerator stored. It has lost a lot of speed when developed in ECN2. I have to rate it at 25 or slower to get a usable negative. I discovered that I can still shoot it full speed if I develop it black and white. 70 minutes of stand developing in 1:100 RODINAL produces a decent black and white negative. Knowing that the silver hallide is still light sensitive, is there a way to get better speed out of this film as a color film?

Can someone let me know how I can use D-76R replenisher? I use 1Liter of D-76 at a time and don't use it one-shot. I don't do mass quantities of developing once, probably one roll a week.

We’re talking about black and white. Has anybody tried this?

I just developed my second roll of film using the Ars Imago Lab-Box, but the end of the film didn’t develop properly. I noticed it was sticking a bit when I took it off the spool. Could the sticking have caused the problem, or was something else likely at play?

Thanks for your help!

My dad just gave me all his old darkroom printing equipment, including about 7 boxes of unopened Ilford Multigrade paper from the 80‘s. Question is, how usable is it?

They have never been opened, and the bags are still vacuum sealed. They have been stored in a very cool environment for the past 40 years, and the boxes themselves don’t show any sign of deterioration.

I will definitely try to use them and see if they are still good, but do you think they are still usable?

Hi! I have a theoretical doubt regarding bleach bypassing C41 negatives. As I understand, when you bleach, bleach turns metallic silver into silver hallide so that it can be fixed.

My question here is, why bleach bypassed negatives look denser also in the borders where no metallic silver should be, as it was never exposed. Or developer also turns silver hallides into metallic silver even when there hasn't been any exposure but slower?. Thank you!

My dad had one that we used back in the 70s and 80s. It was a little like a pair of symmetrical wings that met at a central hub. You would place it on a pivot and give it a twirl during exposure.

It would be great to find one.

Cheers!