Photograph via snooOG

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Best Posts of April 2023

Title Author Flair Votes
Hello everyone! I am a Korean carpenter living in Korea. I'm working on a Korean restaurant in Seoul. Carpenter1st Finishing 22k
My wife said she could never tell if I was on a call in our home office. pedrocoltrane Project Submission 21k
A parcel box I made so any parcels can be left somewhere safe if I'm out gippy44 Project Submission 21k
Found this cool stick. Any idea what I can do with it? Ok_Woodpecker_8263 General Discussion 16k
When you want to carry a 17’ kayak inside a 6’ wide teardrop camper. builderbob53 Project Submission 15k

Best of Woodworking: How-To Posts

Title Author
How to Buy Wood jakkarth
Wood Finishing Basics joelav
Proper breadboard construction shazapple


5,149,900 Subscribers


Best non-reactive concrete sealers for finishing room floor?

Hi everyone, hopefully this question belongs here. I work in a furniture shop with a room dedicated to spray finishing. It seems like the overspray and other chemicals we use in there on a regular basis have eaten away the concrete floor—it’s all pocked and uneven. We’re thinking about filling the holes in the floor with epoxy or new concrete to level it out, and I’m wondering if anyone here has found a concrete sealer that’ll protect a spray room floor and not react with the finishes. We mostly spray water-based poly but also use a decent amount of Deft lacquer spray.

Thanks in advance!

19:22 UTC


Building an Arched Pergola--need advice on process

I have two glass and metal arched doors to my house that I want to put a pergola over extending from the house out onto the porch. All of the store-bought pergolas are the wrong size and the arches don't compliment the doors very well. So I want to do this from scratch. If this is not the place to ask this kind of advice, please forgive me, I read the Sticky Posts and couldn't decide if this was allowed or not.

Basically, I figured I could use 2" x 12" x 5' pressure treated lumber to make my arch. It would be just the right size to cut the arch into two pieces so each piece represented half the arch. I would need 5 or 6 of these because the posts that they would sit on are 4X4, so I'd double the ends up and have two thinner pieces in the middle maybe.

Would it be smarter to cut the arch into thirds and use a smaller width wood? Or is this just a terrible idea entirely?

I had a huge wet bar in my house that I used 2x12's to cut a big arch in and it came out beautiful. Granted it wasn't resting vertically with struts hanging from it so I am not sure if it would have been strong enough.

Before I jump into this and spend a lot of money just to get frustrated and buy yet another tacky premade pergola, could someone offer some advice? Thanks for your time

19:05 UTC


Issue with dust collection, need help from the pros

I currently have a small workshop, in it I have a 2HP harbor freight dust collector. Over the years as my needs have expanded, I've added a thein baffle, going into a 55 gallon drum for shavings, removed the bag and have the fine dust ducted OUT of my shop, and recently upgraded the interior impeller with a more aggressive one (rikon 12"). I only have about a run of 10 feet from the thein baffle/ drum/ impeller to my table saw, and I have two separate 4 inch flex hoses for hooking up to mobile tools, sanders, jointer, planer etc. Each are on their own blast gate.

Today while I was planing, I noticed the flex hose full up. I had just emptied the barrel, and when I put an air meter on the 4 inch flex pipe, I was getting 500ft/min. ( That's the same ANYWHERE in the 4in line, even measure right at the thein baffle. When I measure from the 2.5 hose it's 2500ft /min.) I'm not sure what is ideal, but that seems INCREDIBLY low. I just don't have enough suction. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking to replace it with? It was doing ok for the longest time, and I haven't really changed much in my shop but adding another hose, but I have blast gates on them. I see guys with tons of runs all over their shop and and they manage just fine. Is it just the harbor freight one sucks? No pun intended.

1 Comment
19:05 UTC


Oak tabletop finish not dark enough

So I am building an Oak tabletop for my Wife's workdesk.

Everything worked out great so far and I am in the finishing process.

I am using a hardwax oil.

After the first coat my wife said she wishes it would be darker.

What options do I have? Could I add an oil based pigment to the second coat? Or do I have to sand it off again and start the finish from scratch?

Can I add a pigment to a hardwax oil?

Thx in advance,

18:54 UTC


First part of the roof frame is installed.

Can anyone tell me the name of the powr tool he is using in the first 20seconds of this video?

1 Comment
16:16 UTC


What's something you want but don't need?

I'm curious, what are some woodworking tools that seem fun, useful or you just plain want but definitely don't need? For me, I would love to have the full set of vertias minature handtools.

18:23 UTC


Can I wood glue this?

Hi all, I have 2 1x4x8 boards which have begun to split down the middle. These were to be used as shelves in closets.

Could I wood glue the crack/split, clamp, and let it cure a couple of days? am I screwed? I am open to suggestions. Please know I am pretty new to woodworking and have limited skills. Thanks everyone 🤙

18:22 UTC


Very proud of this one. Made with one of our most rare pieces of ancient kauri. Just look at the MegaCurl on this bad boy.

18:08 UTC


Free up some wall space

what should I do with it I was think French cleat wall it’s 4feet tall by 6 feet long

17:55 UTC


First Time Free Hand Bowtie Inlay

My first shot at doing a free hand bow tie inlay. I definitely need some sharper chisels!

17:41 UTC


Would it be ok to cut MDF on top of grass?

I plan on building some wardrobes and will need to cut around 12-16 sheets of MDF. I have a small workshop shed that I could do this in, but it would take me at least thrice as long as I have to squeeze badly in order to move anywhere, and constantly think about positioning, as a full sheet takes like 90% of the free space.

I'm thinking of taking a table saw into my patio in the garden and cutting it there. Most of the dust will collect in the patio where I can then vacuum, but some of it will end up blowing in the grass. Would this kill the grass? And more importantly, there are cats in the neighbourhood which occasionally visit my garden, would that be an issue for them?

17:34 UTC


Oneida + shop vac, what pipes and fittings to use?

Hey all, this might be a silly question, but I'm looking for advice on how you all find dust collection fittings for your various tools while using the popular Oneida Dust Deputy plus a shop vac?

For starters, I'm not sure what size hose I need. Should I stick with the hose that comes with my shop vac, or should I get a wider diameter hose?

My table saw has a 2-1/2" dust chute for example. Should I get a bigger hose for this, or would it be okay to find a reducer that goes down to my 1-1/2" shop vac hose?

Is there any easy way to standardize things in the shop? For example my corded handheld planer dust chute is about 1-1/2" too. What's the best way to join that to my dust system? Getting one of those bulky rubber joiners seems less than optimal.

Let me know if I'm over thinking this...

1 Comment
17:13 UTC



Please don't judge me too harshly, I know It's just a few clamps put together and it's ugly as hell but I was too lazy to make something better. And yes, the workshop is inside a shipping container.

16:54 UTC


Is what this guy is doing safe?

I am pretty new to woodworking, and I try not to get too involved with power tools. I've only barely managed to use a miter saw after being afraid that it would somehow turn around on its own and cut my hand off.

Anywho, I came across this YouTube video, as my husband and I are renovating our house. Here's a clip of the section that I'm concerned about, safety-wise: https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxpu7gn2P1GLrqw4eg78Xs45uo2rzQjuzd?si=qAzvGmqd1yXNzs-a

I thought that you weren't supposed to put your hand near the blade, and that you should use a pusher(?) to guide it in so you don't have to be near it. I've heard horror stories of people losing fingers or hands because the wood went sideways and dragged their appendages into the blade.

Am I wrong in thinking that what he's doing isn't safe? Am I misunderstanding the dangers of table saws?


16:47 UTC


My joints are always a little off.

I've been practicing hand cut tenons and dovetails. My cross cuts are always a little bit off regardless of my knife-wall and care. I just registered my beat up antique combination square, modern big box store combo square, and two different big box off the shelf aluminum squares against each other, none of them match. Time to find an accurate 90 degree reference.


16:18 UTC


Recommendations for hardwood sources in the Bay Area

Hey all - I’ve mainly worked with softwoods for mostly utility projects and a few small hardwood projects but have a larger one coming up and need to pick up a decent order of the good stuff. Does anyone have recommendations for the SF Bay Area? Haven’t decided on the specific species yet, but it’s going to be a finished table so aiming for something nice on the eyes, kiln dried, and not going to require a second mortgage. Thanks!

15:52 UTC


I got some good advice on dealing with figured wood. So naturally I went with the new tool and more expensive option.

Luckily, Laguna is having a sale on drum sanders. Never again will I cringe at the thought of sanding an end grain cutting board or flattening a panel too wide for my planer.

15:51 UTC

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