What would you recommend to insulate a dog house. There will only be about a 3/4” gap in the walls so I’m not sure it would even do much, but I live in an area that gets -40f in the winter and +100 in summer. I know I’m putting a heating pad inside.

Hey all. Sorry if this has been asked a million times. I put my stain rag and brush in a bucket of water to rinse but now I am unsure of how to dispose of this partially full bucket of water. What is the safest way? Is this ok to keep stored in my garage while I solve this?

I’m being paranoid about combustion but not sure if that risk is mostly for rags?

Edited to add: my rag has been dried so I’m good with that. I’m wondering if my bucket is ok sitting with an oil based stain and water mixture and how to dispose of it. Thanks! Sorry I probably was confusing in my original ask

Garage woodworking shop as a hobby. Please help me choose: This one:

Dewalt 8.25-in 15-Amp Corded Portable Jobsite Table Saw with Folding Stand

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-DWE7485-DW7451-IN-ONE-BOX/5001877445

Or this one? Craftsman 10-in 15-Amp 120-Volt Corded Portable Jobsite Table Saw with Folding Stand

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001071462

Also, is it important to have wood support under the face of the dresser from side to side? Is that absolutely necessary? Or just a good to have? (First time dresser builder here!)

I had my neighbor who is starting out on his own as a contractor do my siding and front porch. For the porch we put up nice cedar posts and did pine boxcar siding for the ceiling. We plan to stain the pine to match the cedar posts. Here is my question. He left gaps between the butt joints claiming they needed to be there for expansion and contraction. But they look awful! Do I really need these gaps? I know this is outside but you don’t leave these gaps on a wood floor in your house. Wouldn’t the tongue and groove keep everything tight and prevent buckling from expansion? Other complaints I have are his nailing job that isn’t very straight and he also made pretty crooked cuts on several of the butt joints. But before I talk to him I just want a second opinion about the gaps.

For reference the porch is 22’ wide and sticks out 8’. And yes I know there needs to be a gap around the outside for expansion and contraction.

Used lacquer thinner to take the finish off the veneer top. Half way through and wondering if it’s bad to keep going over spots where it’s patchy, or what my step after the chemical peel should be. Thanks in advance

Hey guys,

So after bringing 'professionals' to my house to help assemble a 74x40, 1.5 inch thick acacia butcher block on an idasen desk, it's still sagging like crazy after using the right screws apparently.

And now, I have to throw it to the trash because we've used all the holes available.

Are there any standing desk frames solid enough to hold this 100lb acacia top without sagging, while leaving me with at least 20.5 inches of knee space ? Keep in mind the acacia wood top is 40 inches deep.

And by sagging I mean vertigal sagging, when i lean on it with my elbows it shouldn't have any vertical sag (at low heights).

pretty soul crushed that I have to throw this beautiful gorgeous acacia top to the trash but it is what it is. I just hope my next frame will be able to handle it properly.

Cutting >1000 3cm-ish holes in nice veneered plywood. Which cutting method will have the best results?

Hi everyone, hoping to get some help here. We’re working on an add-on and wanted the fascia board to be stained to match the front door rather than painted. When using the Penofin stain and sealer in Mission Brown we noticed the color was way off between batches. The board on the right is what it’s supposed to look like and the stain was applied while the board was already installed, vs the left which was stained and then installed.

It’s the same type of wood (Doug fir, architectural grade) and all cans were properly stirred.

Anyone have issues like this in the past with stains? Looks like we have to sand one of the colors off and reapply, but how can we trust that the color will be accurate this time?

I bought a teak table in April and sealed it in June instead of oiling it. I somehow got those two words confused..I have no idea why. Anyway, am I screwed or will I be able to get the original color back? Should I wait til end of summer to try and oil it? I live on Long Island and it gets a fair amount of sun daily. Any advice would be great, thank you! :)

Hi everyone, just hoping to get some input on this. I have three table saws near me that are for sale.

First, there is a DeWalt DWE7490 with included scissor stand, brand new for $349. Second, a DW745 with tool stand, used for $189. Finally, a Craftsman 113.298762 for $82.5. This Craftsman is a complete set and includes everything original from the factory. I had done cabinet making for a couple years when I was in school, but that was a while ago.

I'm looking to get back into making more substantive wooden furniture, and I’m still getting up to speed on what is or isn’t a good table saw. Would love any advice anyone has to offer on the merits of each one. Thanks!

P.S. I was also looking to get a thickness planar. They have a lightly used 12.5" Bauer from Harbor Freight for $175, and a similarly used 12" Delta 22-540 for $155. I do not, and will not have the space for anything more than a benchtop planar. I was leaning towards the Delta but would also love your input. Thanks!

Found a Delta Jointer for $175. Seems like it works.

Feels like a good deal to me. Thoughts?

https://preview.redd.it/1prgnp5l9yed1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=337252e23b571d5ea6b319e28c3a5e715b265654

I've got an antique brass and teak (possibly oak) pill roller that I am restoring to usable condition to make candy with.

I can't easily post photos rn but this is the same model, mine was in a bit worse condition.

Unfortunately some past restorer has evidently attempted an aesthetic restoration that involved covering everything in horrible varnish and lacquer, including the brass working surfaces.

I have dismantled the unit and after a lot of effort the brass is now mostly fine and I can turn my attention to the wood.

What would be the best way for me to go about stripping all of the old varnish and finish and then refinish with something food safe?

I was thinking of just soaking the whole thing in acetone and then scrubbing with steel wool but was worried it might warp/swell/dissolve any hidden glue (seems to be screwed/nailed together though). I'd then finish it in mineral oil or beeswax. I've got a bad feeling about this plan though and I'm too much of an amateur to want to fuck this up alone, any help will be much appreciated.

https://preview.redd.it/a73zp9tsyxed1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a932e1bd65c6a6d77211221f07a55464637a589

This is how far ive gotten so far. im looking to mainly use this area for furniture construction but id like some advice from people here with their own workspaces. This area is all im allowed to take over so im curious how i can optimize this space.

Bought this custom oak shelf off Etsy and painted it with latex paint after priming but this side started cupping. I only noticed it days after painting and had it stored it upright with the now cupped side on the floor.

Poplar with mahogany stain, oil poly finish. Better than my last for sure.

Built a planter box, still needs finishing but wanted to share! Thanks y’all for the inspiration and late night scrolling material!

Hello, so I(17m) an a senior in high school, and I am considering carpentry(woodworking and sort of a handyman). What is a day to day life of a carpenter(business owner or employee), would you help at construction sites? Projects for individuals? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I saw this at a brewery, and I really want to mimic this finish. Any gray stain I’ve used before doesn’t quite come out like this. I want this for an outdoor table.