Hi, I saw this wheel on marketplace while doing my weekly search for used wheels. I’m trying to get a wheel for home use and practice, I spend too much money taking classes at my local art studio! I have experience on modern Brent’s and Shimpo’s, I’ve never even thought about 2-speed wheel existed.

Is it worth investing in one for home use? It’s pretty cheap ($150), though I do adjust my speed a lot while throwing on a modern wheel.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1AU6u94Agj/?mibextid=79PoIi

Just got my bowls out the high fire but glaze didn’t stick to well in the middle. It looks super dope but i’m curious if this affects the safety of eating out of it?

I have gone down the rabbit hole of anime ramen bowls. I was trying to find one for myself that is cute with a lid and a handle, but i could not. So i decided to see if there are regular bowls but with Fairytale anime on them instead for my friend who loves the anime Fairytale, but couldn't find much.

I then thought maybe someone could make it, as I have seen some handmade bowls with other anime but they are all hundreds of dollars. is this going to be the normal price range? or were those just like the top tier of ceramics?

I am wanting to know if I should save for this or if these are luxury goods that are just not in my price range. I wouldn't want to downplay someone's professional work by expecting it to cost like half of what its worth.

This is my latest glaze - Tenmoku + sea mist I expected a much different result; it seemed the sea mist didn’t really show up at all. Why does this happen? Is it because the sea mist was too thin? Should I have put it in the sea mist longer? Prof has us only do 2 layers total of glaze (this is a Pottery I class) - should I be doing more at times?

Looking at creating a dinnerware set with RM speckled buff and a combination of several coyote glazes fired to cone 6. Anyone have any advice on using coyote glazes with this clay body? I’ve used RM speckled buff quite a bit, but never in combo with Coyote glazes. I’ll be doing some tests before I make the set, but wanted to ask before I buy the glazes.

Here’s a list of the glazes I plan to use

• Creamy matt, Light Green shino, Goldenrod shino, Mottled blue, Orange (gloss)

Hey there, any suggestions on helping this clay body not be a total jerk?

It has always been awesome in the past, but it has been doing this (straight out of the bag, after wedging, after an overnight moisture "bag bath" and re-wedging). My tricks aren't working. Any suggestions?

Incredible raku firing yesterday :')

I took over an art classroom this year. I'm the only art teacher in the entire school. I cannot contact the previous art teacher.

The students had made some clay projects last year, but they were never fired. Some of them broke so I took some of those pieces to make slip...but it never melted. I've soaked these clay pieces for over a week and it's still solid.

Can bone dry clay dry for so long that they don't melt into slip at all?

The students are insisting the clay pieces are never fired, but I get the feeling it has...just not at the right temperature.

Some relevant info:

• It's low fire white clay
• The boxes of clay said to fire at cone 05 for bisque and cone 06 for glaze.
• The instructions next to the kiln said to fire for bisque at 1200F and glaze at 1800F.
• I had a kiln technician come in and he told me that the instructions are incorrect. I should be firing at 1800F for bisque and lower for glaze (1500F).
• I had called in a kiln technician because the notes left behind said that there seems to be some inconsistent firing. Glazed pieces were coming out uneven. So I did a paper test as suggested by the local pottery store, and I called in a service to have the kiln checked out.
• The paper test showed the left elements burned hotter than the right elements. The elements on the right burned hotter than the bottom elements.
• It's a front loading kiln.

I appreciate any insights people may have! I have some experience with clay, but the previous teacher minored in ceramics so I feel like maybe I should follow the instructions given. But everything I've read and the experience I do have tell me that the instructions are incorrect.

I've fired some bone dry clay from this year once at 1800F. Nothing melted so that's good. But I just want to make absolute sure.

I want to start doing pottery, and I'd like to make all kinds of things with sgraffito technique (black on plain clay).

In my country ALL the black underpaint, and black clay is to be fired up to 1100 C. The base clay water absortion is 4-5percent at this temperature. So am I right in thinking I have to order from an other country to be able to do stoneware?

They do sell iron dioxid powder. Could I mix that with my clay to make a slip and fire at higher temp?

Hey! My wife is an amateur potter. She has recently been doing more shows, fairs, etc and carrying her pottery in her car, unpacking, packing back up etc.

I wanted to try and find a more solid solution for her as a Christmas present. She is currently just using packing paper and moving boxes. This is fine, except the boxes are different sized, the paper gets junky, etc.

Looking online, everything Im seeing is either flimsy storage for the family dishes, or moving material for a one time use. What do you all use?

Hey everyone!

This is my favorite mug. My sis painted and gifted it to me before I moved and I sadly chipped away a small part of the glaze while cleaning it. I know it’s quite minor, but im really sad abt it.

Is there a way to fix the glaze? I don’t know much about pottery so I was thinking if it could be refired?

Found this set sitting in the basement, apparntly was imported from the soviet union at the 1990's (don't know when it was bought).

Lable says made in D.P.R.K.

https://preview.redd.it/nzn3x47jao1e1.jpg?width=649&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=06a9a64c4bd45edfb4ad224d82b1901c33c9b94c

https://preview.redd.it/nykl067jao1e1.jpg?width=1742&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8e5a092679ba0fc33434301fa1d5f320c13a2ee

https://preview.redd.it/qroix47jao1e1.jpg?width=1083&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5ea448798fd779f353106c6ad107e4a32aaa63c9

https://preview.redd.it/hwsj457jao1e1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=648cd8fb11e64a2e314abdfa440f290d5919168c

https://preview.redd.it/n95jxi0oao1e1.jpg?width=1126&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbc41fc98a5ea55c9a42423b0fd4e14d97f4288c

If anyone knows more about its history or value I would be thankful.

I’m not sure if this is the right place to post but does anyone have any idea why my Frankoma mug is weeping like this? Is it safe to drink from?

I'm doing a clay on canvas art form called Lippan and terracotta's consistency seems the best to work with. I've tried epoxy clay, air dry clay and paper mache clay. Nothing has the smoothness that terracotta does. But I'm scared if it will crack afterwards.

Please help!

The art piece will just hang on a wall indoors.

Does the colour of your clay have an impact on the finished colour of underglazes?

Only ever worked with underglazes on lighter clays but wanted to try on some chocolate clay and just wondering if I should do a tester with some underglazes to see how the colours turn out or if they will look like the "advertised" colour regardless?

TIA!

I made a plaster bat from potters plaster. I followed the ratio guidelines, but am unsure if I stirred well enough.

It solidified, and the bottom, which is now the top, is lovely and smooth and hard. The top (the exposed bit after pouring) was initially a bit soft (I smoothed it off with a rib and bits the consistency of toothpaste were coming off). A few days passed and this hardened up too - however, there's definitely still a residue coming off when I run my fingers over it.

Is this normal? Could this be because I didn't stir well enough prior to pouring? Or will the residue go away if I give the surface enough of a going over with a cloth or sponge??

Sorry, I've reposted this as I realised the time I posted last night was far too late to catch most people in the UK!

The main thing I'm unsure about is this: in my recent reading I've seen some things about having a 'Declaration of Compliance' relating to The Ceramic Articles In Contact With Food Regulations 2006. I'm embarrassed to say I'm not quite understanding how this would look in practice for a small time seller and hobbyist 🫣

Someone on my last post suggested that this only relates to food being sold on ceramics but everything I'm reading indicates it's for ceramics intended for food use.

I've also seen craft sites saying you should get public and product liability insurance before selling at fairs. This seems cheaper than I thought (I don't know why I assumed it'd be like car insurance price wise). An A-N annual membership includes both of these - has anyone used this?

(For the record, me selling anything is a ways away yet, I'm just researching/ learning as much as I can about how it works)