/r/littlebritishcars
For drivers and fans of Little British Cars of the '50s, '60s and '70s.
MG, Triumph, Austin-Healey, Jaguar, Morgan, all welcome here!
Hi everyone, I'm new to moderating, so we'll just build this up together.
Tag your NSFW posts (he said hopefully) and be respectful, though I know the LBC community is amazingly inclusive and supportive!
At this point it's wide open, post pictures, discussion, tech tips, buy&sell, whatever. If things get out of control in some way we'll try to curb it but otherwise let's see what happens.
Our friends:
/r/littlebritishcars
Hi all,
I was working on my Spitfire today when I noticed this disconnected hose on the left, and the only thing I can think of it connecting to is the hose circled on the right, but it doesn’t reach it.
Any idea what it is for?
It’s located near the rear passenger wheel.
Thank you for your help!
I've had my midget for a while I'm not a mechanic but I can fix things. I need all the switches on the dashboard for a 79 mg where is the best place to get this stuff. Does anybody have a go-to or One stop shop I've tried the shop in Cincinnati Ohio they're never available. Thank you for your time.
1978 MG Midget with stock 1500 engine. Things are running "ok" right now - it does run rough at times, but nothing life-threatening.
(TL,DR: what do I fix while I have things open?)
I'm seriously considering upgrading the transmission from the stock 4-spd to a Ford 5-spd transmission (the kit available from Moss) this winter.
If/when I do this, I'm going to pull the engine as well.
I'm thinking that while I've got it out, I might as well do an in-depth inspection of the engine and try to future-proof things where I can.
So, what I'm practically planning on doing is to complete compression and leak-down tests, check through the ignition/distribution/engine electrical systems, pull the oil pan to check for stuff with serial numbers, and replace the timing chain/tensioner and water pump.
I might also replace the carb with the Weber kit, if I can swing the cost (dunno yet - kind of depends on if there's problems with the core engine.)
What I'm asking here is if there's anything I've missed. I'm a decent enough mechanic, but have never worked on this engine before. Is there a common failure/trouble point in this engine or something that I really should do now that I don't know about? Something I should just go ahead and upgrade now while I've got time and access?
I should add that my goal with this car is a fun reliable driver for weekends etc trips, not some sort of number-matching show car. If a reasonably priced upgrade can increase fun/reliability, I'd like to go for it. Any suggestions?
Little question about a not so little British car. Long story short, I have a BMW 116i as a company car and I really don’t enjoy driving a modern car, much less a German one. Good news is: my company allows me to opt out of it and instead get €0.23/km untaxed plus a couple hundred euros a month after taxes for travel expenses. No restrictions on age of the car, but it has to be ‘presentable’ aka in good condition. Browsing the web I increasingly fell in love with the Rover 800 series. Sure, I prefer an SD1 but there’s a limit even to my madness. Plus: finding a left hand drive SD1 in good condition with cruise control and air conditioning is easy nor particularly cheap. My reasoning is: it looks and feels like a proper Rover and is basically a Honda underneath. Should be pretty reliable right? So I’m wondering, what’s your real life experience with these, either the European market 827 (I’m dead set on a 6 cylinder) or the US Sterling version? I’d be looking for a well-kept low miles example from a sunny and rust free southern European country and I do count on some repairs and precautionary maintenance in the first months of driving it. Would do around 40-50k km a year, so LPG would be an option if these engines can take it. I know I’m slightly mad, but am I fit for the mental asylum or is this somewhat doable?
The leaf spring front bolt (5) is stuck on my car and I’ve got no clue how to go about getting it off. The bolt and lock washer are off, but I have tried hammering, using a clamp, everything short of cutting it off. My only thought is that I could cut just short of the circular part where the bushing goes and then cut horizontally through the middle of the bolt and bushing and housing. Is this my only option?
the unit moss recommends: https://mossmotors.com/180-595-push-rod-2-11-16-from-hole-center-to-end seems to be a good bit shorter than the original. i dont want to reuse the original as the hole has been worn down. the unit on moss does not have the collar present on the bottom of the original. i cant seem to find one anywhere that has this collar. is the unit from moss correct for my slave: https://mossmotors.com/180-667-clutch-slave-cylinder-1-bore-aftermarket
Just got this delivered today, my very first project car, a 1950 morris minor in fantastic shape, not running yet but not stuck or seized
I've got a '73 Triumph GT6 and a strange issue with my reverse lights. When I put the car in reverse the reverse light turns on, which is great. The issue is that it's also on in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. When the car is in 1st or neutral the light is off.
Any ideas on what the root cause could be for this?
Hello everyone,
I am considering buying a MG Midget 1977 US spec, but I am in doubt due to the seller informing it has a 1800cc engine, while for this year it should have a 1500cc engine. Did a 1800cc version ever existed? And based on these pictures, is it possible to identify if the engine is either 1500cc or 1800cc? I am finding it very odd....
Not sure which to do, I’ve heard it’s a pain to rebuild them so is it worth the extra $120?
You want the car that is the most fun to drive, on the weekend, on twisty roads, in your favorite countryside. Connected feel. Zippy acceleration. One with the road. You don't care about luggage capacity. You don't care about fuel efficiency. You'll never drive it in city traffic. Which affordable little British car do you choose?
I'm having trouble getting the new-to-me spitfire's coverable top fastened at the snaps closest to the door. I've tried with the windshield latches secured and with a lot of slack there (i.e. barely raised). is there something I need to do to stretch the material? any suggestions from what you've seen success with on this or other LBCs welcomed!