Looking for advice

Just picked up project bike for nothing. I need something to tinker with.

1984 Yamaha xv700 virago - stored indoors for the last few months at least.

Issues:

Starter motor was nowhere to be found and the crank case was open and exposed. Seems like the oil was drained when it was last being worked on.

Spark plug was out and again left open and exposed.

The previous owner said he hired someone to work on it and they guy bailed mid session and the owner just gave up. BUT he said the carbs needed to be rebuilt.

IF you were a master bike mechanic - where would you start?

Recently the reg-rec and stator on my STR went - left me stranded at the side of the motorway.

The bikes had a new stator and a new RR, and shows 14.17 odd volts at idle when first started, but as soon as it's ridden for more than about a minute, the voltage from the RR cuts and I just see battery voltage, which obviously decreases the longer I ride.

Any ideas?

Hello everyone, sorry if I make any mistakes, I am not a native English speaker but I will try my best to explain everything as best as I can, Recently I've bought a Honda CB125F from 2015 as my beginner bike.
I have passed my European A1 license a few weeks ago and I wanted a nice and clean beginner bike and this one was in the best condition on the market.

The seller mentioned that the bike had some issues regarding the clutch but I thought it would be the cable or maybe the friction plates. The seller warned me and told me not to ride the bike in the current condition, as it could damage the bike further, so I bought it without doing a quick ride to check how the bike handles.

When I arrived home, I went for a quick ride around my neighborhood (maybe 1km) because I was very excited, but the bike began to make a whistling sound when I slowly let go of the clutch lever. I thought nothing of it and continued the ride. When I arrived home, there was a slight burning smell coming from the motorcycle.

A few days ago, I opened the clutch cover and inspected the friction plates and there was some damage to the outer part of clutch basket and also 2 of the 4 friction plates was missing the some of the friction material, so I ordered a set of new friction plates. A few hours ago I installed the new friction discs, and I went ahead to test it but the whistling sound was still there.

At this point I don't know what needs replacement. I would also like to mention that the oil has some very small metal flakes in it, they look to be aluminum, not steel, so I hope the engine is ok.

Me and my dad don't know what to do next so maybe someone can help us.

Thanks a lot!

Having problems with selecting gears on gs1000s. We first were able to shift between first and neutral but couldn't shift any higher. Then played around with the shifting shaft (it moves in and out) to see if that was the problem. Now we can't get any gears. (even at the same position where we could get first and neutral originally) Please help.

Hi all,

I recently flushed and replaced my coolant. I was experiencing some heating issues and , as the 3rd owner, decided to replace the coolant.

First short ride today, I noticed my reservoir was nearly empty. I made sure to fll it above the full lines as I figured it would dip some. But this seems... excessive. Any ideas what to check next?

I haven't noticed any leaks (I also replaced a few old hoses at the same time).

I appreciate it!

Wanting to do a valve clearance adjustment on my bike. I hear a ticking/clicking sound in the engine and it could possibly be a clearance issues. Also I’m brand new to all of this. I have the tools. Just wondering if I have to replace the valve cover gasket. Thanks!

If its not between the 25-60% open then it doesn't do anything. Anything below 25% open and it does nothing, anything above 60% and it does nothing. Middle works. What does this tell me? The cable is fine, i replaced the whole choke last year and it was doing this then too. Before that was the same. I cleaned out the carb last year too.

88hondanx650

So I decided last night to top my Ninja 250r 2009 up with 91. Filled it to the top, then 20 seconds after leaving bike sputters and when I twisted the throttle it died. Now it just doesn’t start. Today I siphoned the fuel out, and replaced the fuel. Bike still wouldn’t start. Also worth noting I crashed 2 weeks ago but the bike was running fine until last night.

Going to be doing a carburetor clean next week. Or should I look into something else?

Hi, I'm having some problems with my newly bought 1997 Shadow 600. Bikes got 52k kilometers on the clock and lookswise is in absolutely pristine condition. Previous owner installed a new exhaust system and had the carbs rejeted, idles great and starts without problems. Almost perfect, right? Well today when going on my first test drive, the engine completely lost power and ran on what felt like half of its power, and sounded like only one cylinder was firing. It did manage to pull tho. But once it fell to idle it seemed to have gone to "normal" again. Even revving the engine in neutral was normal, no loss or anything - it seems like it looses power when under load. What also perplexes me is that eventually, after 15-20 minutes of driving it regained its power again. Im suspecting that the rear cylinder wasnt firing, because I tested the spark plug against the block to see if it had spark (it didnt, and it was dry). Also its exhaust pipe was a tad bit colder than the one of the front cylinder (it backfired a lot too when id let go of the gas).

Sorry for the wall of text guys, hoping to see a potential solution :)

2014 Keeway Zahara 125cc

Hey guys! I’m having an issue with my scooter and I’m not sure what it is. My scooter ran great with no problems, then I let it sit for 3 days and it wouldnt start anymore. I took the carb out and cleaned it and the jets. Still wouldnt start, If I spray carb cleaner into the air intake it starts right up and can hold an idle. I can also drive it and accelerate it no problems, even drove 60km with it. Once it sits for the night, it again wont start in the morning unless I spray carb cleaner into it.

I attached a video of the motor not starting and then starting with carb cleaner.

Ps. Yes, I was only holding the scooter with one hand because I was filming and nearly sent it into a wall lol.

https://reddit.com/link/1glvs71/video/9gksdzm6kizd1/player

Thanks for any help!

Ok so yesterday I rode to the store, came out 20 minutes later, hit the starter aaaand-nothing. No crank or anything. I was able to bump start it and ride home but I haven’t been able to get it to start at all without rolling it.

The headlights come on when I turn the key, so it’s not the battery. Also noticed my neutral light doesn’t come on when in neutral. It doesn’t struggle to crank or anything so it can’t be the starter motor, right?

Is it an issue with the kill switch? Where should I start first?

When I roll the bike back and forth while holding the clutch in and in first gear, I hear a clunking noise coming from what sounds like the clutch area. Any clues??

Edit: Reddit won’t let me post a vid of the bike so if you have any clues as to what it could be, I’ll PM you a vid

I've been slowly putting back together my '08 SV650S after a relatively small crash that destroyed the front fork. Thankfully, there was no other damage to the bike other than a small dent in the radiator – it ran completely fine after replacing the fork.

Roughly one month post-repair, riding close to every day, I start up the bike as normal to show a friend, just sitting in the driveway. Two hours later, go to start it up again to take it out... and nothing. The only change between the day before (operating perfectly) and the day of (not operating) was that I put on new, almost perfectly fitting fairings. Turning the ignition key works as normal, lighting up the bike, but hitting the kill switch (which usually primes the fuel pump after which I can start the bike) does nothing.

I've tried just about everything I can to resolve the issue: replacing the fuel pump relay, disconnecting all accessories (including head/taillights), replacing every fuse multiple times, up to and including buying a new battery (BS Battery BTX9-BS, MF AGM).

Notably, after installing the new battery, I was able to get it going again. But when I took it out, all of a sudden the engine and fuel pump cut out – had to tow home.

Since that happened, I've been able to isolate that the problem has something to do with the kill switch: I have a gear indicator that plugs into the dealer mode connector (under the gas tank on the right side on these ABS models) that usually lights up and cycles through when the kill switch is on. It does this regardless of whether or not a fuel pump relay is installed. However, part of my issue includes this indicator not lighting up. Similarly, because of this, I can't enter dealer mode to see if there are any codes.

I've gone about testing the continuity of my fuel pump relay and of my kill switch (at the ecm connector, while unplugged from the ecm, and flasher relay), both of which were completely normal. Strangely, when the ecm is plugged in and I test the continuity at the kill switch itself, there's nothing. Bridging the fuel pump relay connector also does not work; I don't have a thin enough lead to try bridging the kill switch at the ecm/relay level though.

At this point, I'm not sure where to go. My best guess is that the ecm is not receiving a signal from the kill switch – despite the wiring seeming to be fine. I wonder if it could be caused by parasitic power drain, as the battery rests at 13v when fully charged, and at 12.7v when installed and left for a day or two (in a pretty warm Toronto autumn). I also haven't tested/replaced the starter relay, although I don't believe that that would cause this. Also haven't looked at the tip-over sensor, although the problem began while the bike was upright, and only two hours after operating normally.

Open to any and all ideas, anything I missed that I should be checking/trying – please help!

Sometimes when I go to start my bike the lights and dash will turn on, I hear it prime, but it wont crank at all. I push the start button and all that happens is the headlight dims a bit. When this happens I've gotten it to start by turning it off and trying again with the kickstand up and holding in the clutch. Doesnt work every time but it always ends up starting again. After this I can usually start the bike up normal (no clutch held in, no kickstand up). Any ideas?

Amateur wrencher here, 2001 FZ1 project bike I picked up that hasn't been touched in a while, this is my first time playing with carbs and all of the coolant lines were plugged and gunked up, I was able to free all of them except the metal intake line between carb 3 and 4 (points northwest in the photo, connected to metal line coming out of carb 4 at bottom), there seems to be a lot of crap right past the bend...

Tried soaking it in hot water, spraying carb cleaner, brake cleaner, compressed air (from top and bottom of connected line) tried heat gunning it, running a small wire through it but haven't been able to free it up. Seems that it's connected to the carb itself per parts diagram and can only be replaced with a new carb.

Any suggestions appreciated!

https://preview.redd.it/dbxl0caaryyd1.jpg?width=1848&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b8a911ea44a1baa5ffbb2983fbcd9585f68dff3

i dont know alot about workin on bikes but bought a bike that the key switch tumblers had been took out of so i bought an aftermarket switch after cutting wires from switch i didnt really know witch wire went to what so i started touching wire till i got my cluster to light upbut now the start button does not turn the motorcycle over. i seen online after the fact that you cannot touch red power wire to either of the blue wires that go to the switch or you could burn something up and it did. would anyone know possibly what it could be so i can replace it. thank you very much for any help

HELP ZIP SP. PROBLEM

It seems that there is a drop in torque around 12,000 rpm, figuratively represented by a wall which, once the engine climbs over it, expresses maximum power (in any case it picks up as soon as it reaches torque)... at low rpm the engine is quite reactive until reaching at this specific regime in which it seems to resonate and until it overrides it seems to have 3 hp.

Let me start by saying that in my opinion it seems carbureted (I have done a lot of tests and in any case when it comes in pairs it works great) I have tried various reeds both on the original body and on a machined body with a Malossi insert

Components list Polini 70 evolution cylinder After market replacement piston (I made the wrong size and there are 1.5 mm more between the pins and the crown so I had to fit a base of about 2 mm under the cylinder, this can lead to a timing variation such as to have this incredible drop before the torque peak ?) Polini evolution tree full shoulders Malossi mhr team muffler Original ignition (maybe it needs more advance?)

Speaking of transmission, I have done endless tests in this regard, it also makes the clutch engage directly above 12,000 rpm but the problem is that EVEN WHEN IDLER this kind of resonance enters which for at least a couple of seconds does not block the increase in rpm before the explosion of the couple

ADVICE?????