Already tried the jb weld tank epoxy and it started leaking again, leak is too small to see with my eyes but it will empty the table in about 3 weeks. Did a soap bubble test and found the spot where it's leaking from. Can I solder or braize it?

Has anyone or can you (safely) add water wetter to premixed coolant .. specifically Engine Ice. Thanks.

So heres a little backstory. I was well overdue for an oil change as i heard a slight ticking coming from the front cylinder. I changed the oil with no issues but i used almost a full 5 quarts. I filled oil up through the scope, ran it for a few minutes, and then topped it off. The first thing i noticed is that the oil almost immediately turned dark brown after the first ride. I dont see oil thru the scope when its running (pretty sure thats normal) I went to the gym yesterday and when i came out after an hour or two and the dark brown oil settled back down into the scope (normal.) But this morning i rode to work. Got here at 9 and just checked it now (11am) and i cant see oil thru the scope. Should i just wait longer, fill it with more oil, or let it be because its normal??????

Hey, my son and I are rebuilding an old Shadow. Wiring is a mess and we're having to piece some of it together. One thing we need to do is to install a lighted button for managing some lights. I need a waterproof latching button with lighting on it (LED ring, whatever) that will cut power to some lights. I need the button to light up when the power has been cut and for the button light to go out when the button is on. All I can find are buttons where the light is on when then button is on or the button light is on all the time regardless of the state of the button.

I've seen other motorcycles with this type of button (so when extra lights are on at night, the button is dark and not messing up vision) but I cannot for the life of me find one.

Can anyone help?

Hi all, I’ve been scratching my head for a while with this one and thought I’d ask for help. Not long ago, I purchased a 2023 cbr650r, came with a lot of neat mods, specifically a woolich quickshifter and tune. The problem I have been having lately is the quickshifter not working. I have pulled the tank and seat off many times, checked along the cable for any tears but I can’t for the life of me figure out why it’s not working. It seems almost temperamental, and some rides it will work, other times it almost feels like it’s cutting spark while I’m not trying to shift gears, and almost feels like I’m being bucked off the bike when the inertia hits. Any and all advice is appreciated, I am going to try relocating the module under the tank, instead of the seat as I believe the wire may be getting crushed under load

Bike has plenty of compression and spark, new fuel pump and filter. It has sat for about 5 years just wondering if there is anything else we could have missed before we go ahead and pull the injector out??

Hi guys i have a 2018 kx250f dirt bike, i recently changed my break pads and when i walk the bike normally i hear a loud squeaking noise from the back wheel and it is because one of the break pads is rubbing against the rotor since it is too thick, what do i do? can i sand down the break pad?

Bike: 2014 CBR1000RR Issue: Sometimes the bike runs fine but I could turn it off and the next time I ride theres random bogging at different RPM ranges etc (3-4k or 6-8k), inconsistent idle. I don't notice any patterns it's just completely random wherever it feels like it's bogging or whenever it runs poorly. The bike ran fine until I had planned to trade with someone we exchanged bikes to test ride and then I decided to not trade, immiediatley after it started riding like shit. (Bogging, extremely jerky and rough up to 30 mph in first like the bikes going to shake itself apart) Another thing I noticed is it almost sounds like a v twin below 6-8k rpms then there's a power surge and it sounds normal as if 2 cylinders arent firing until higher rpms.

What I’ve Observed:

Bogging is inconsistent—sometimes happens at 3-4k RPM, other times at 6-8k RPM, and sometimes the bike runs fine At idle, RPMs fluctuate and jump 300 rpms or so Bike sounds like a V-twin below 6k RPM, then power surges, and it sounds normal. Throttle cable is stretched, causing slower RPM drop but shouldn’t cause bogging. Checked ECU connections, found one loose and clicked it in—no change. Found and fixed a pinched air hose from the tank—no change.

Power Commander 5 and healtech quickshifter installed

Whenever I shift from second to first the bike goes into neutral and won’t come out unless I upshift to second and back down to first a few times. Any idea on what could be wrong?

A little bit of backstory, I bought this bike last year (2024) and did a couple of stuff to it. I changed all the liquids, filters, sprockets, and the chain. After some time I noticed the bike randomly shuts off and won`t start for a couple of hours (the engine cranks but won't start). After some examinations, I noticed the fuel petcock was leaking fuel without the engine making a vacuum. It looked like it was not the original petcock so I decided on changing it. I bought this one on eBay and after replacing it the bike started running normally and wouldn`t shut down randomly anymore. One thing to note is I changed the fuel filter and because of the way the new petcock sat, I was able to shorten dramatically the hose length leading to the carbs. The bike ran more smoothly than before.

After some time, I noticed that after running the bike above 7k RPMs (roughly the middle of the tachometer) you can see the fuel in the transparent fuel filter getting depleted. At some point, I suspect, the carbs are running dry and the bike shuts off (at that point the fuel filter is empty).

With the new season coming up for me, in a couple of days I am tearing the bike apart to see what may be causing the problem. I am looking for suggestions, fixes, tips, anything really so I get an Idea on what the problem may be.

A couple of things to note:

1. The motorcycle was imported from Germany and because of how driving licenses work in the EU the carb jets were probably changed with a smaller diameter to limit the horsepower (to be more specific the KW) so the bike would fit in the smaller licensing bracket (A2). Basically, the bike has less power. I have not confirmed this yet, but it is something I am looking forward to check and change. Right now the Kawasaki is topping out at around 140 kph or 87 (mph) in freedom units.
2. I opened and cleaned the carbs last year, they seemed pretty clean but still, I replaced the needle valves because I had a spare. For now, the Ethanol content in the fuel in my country is not that much and I don't think the carbs are getting "guncked-up".
3. Last year I changed the vacuum hose going from the engine to the carbs and the hose from the engine to the fuel petcock. I am pretty sure both lines are for vacuum and they had cracks at the ends so I replaced them with gasoline-rated hoses.
4. I haven't done any carb calibration, on the fuel/air mixture, or carb synchronization. This is something I was postponing. I am on a budget so I am doing the maintenance and fixing on my own. This was something that felt out of my reach, but this year I am set on calibrating and synching them.

I am sorry for the long post, but I am in love with this motorcycle and I see the potential and want to unlock it. I've tried to be as detailed as possible. Thank you all in advance and I hope you have a blessed day!

P.S. English is not my first language so I am sorry in advance.

TLDR: The motorcycle carburettors run out of fuel after staying above 7k RPMs and the engine shuts off.

Hi all,

My tu250x has been in the cold for the past couple weeks. I've ridden it fairly often but just had a hiatus due to winter. During freezing temps I brought it inside.

It's warmer now and I tried starting it today but the FI light would't come on and I didn't hear the whine. I thought it might've been the battery so I took it out and put it on the battery tender. Fully charged, put it back in - still the same issue.

Not sure if the FI went bad? Fairly new bike - 2k miles. Looking for suggestions. Thanks

Greetings! As I mentioned in the title basically. Tried the valve adjustment, carbs rebuilt and synchronized, new oil, new gas tank and peacock, new sparks. I really don't know what to try anymore. Thank you in advance!

Looking for recommendations on new hand grips, ordered a new set that looked comfortable (I got carpal tunnel and my hands go numb quick) off eBay and they are not the right size. New to all this and don’t know much of what I’m doing looking for new grips

Hey guys, my new bike does this hard to describe sound, it's a mix of of something like an hair dryer and scraping when the clutch isn't pushed.

Here's a video of it, the volume is kinda low due to my phone camera microphone not being that great. Ignore the last 4 seconds since the fan kicked in and it makes it impossible to hear the sound.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/pIK--Y8ksIY

What do you guys think it is? Maybe it's normal, to be honest I don't know! It doesn't bother me much since I can't notice it while riding but I worry it's something that needs fiixing and can cause damage

I'm pretty sure I blew the head gasket on my bike. Again not sure just know while I was riding a whole bunch of white smoke came out and now when I start it there's white smoke coming from the exhaust too. If it is how would I go about fixing it? Do I have to pull the whole engine?

Hey guys was wondering if maybe someone could shoot me some advice I bought a 2015 hyosung gr650r I don't know much about bikes but it has spark the starter spins which spins the flywheel but that's all that happens it doesn't turn over they just spin any advice would be appreciated thank you

So I left my keys on and drained the battery. Next thing I recharged the battery but it won't start. Thinking it was the starter I replaced it plus the silinoide next to the starter. Still nothing. I checked and replaced all silinoides under the seat as well . Still nothing . Please help!

Last year I bought a 1997 Suzuki marauder vz800. At the end of the season the clutch slipped and starter motor was faulty, so in the season break I bought a new starter and clutch. And she started like a charm (granted she has been jumpstarted)

Today I wanted to take her out for a ride and at first she started and ran for like 2 seconds and died. Maybe just too cold or to much fuel in the carbs, so I tired again for several times and after some time the starter didn’t turn anymore, the only thing I got was a ‚klack‘ from the starterrelais, I guess, and that’s it. I tried to jump start her again, so battery shouldn’t be the issue. Is it possible that the starter is dead again? I never turned over like 4 seconds.