Any body has any idea what can I try to use to remove these stains? Bought the bike used and nothing seems to remove these

Noticed the area around the screen was dirty, So I sprayed some brake cleaner, but I forgot that I cleaned my clear oil funnel with it and it ended up cracking. Will I be fine ?

My 2009-ish Aprilia SX125 (same motor as RS125) seems to have low compression, i got 100psi when testing properly. It runs mostly alright, but it can be hard to start and a bit down on power in the low end. The piston has only been driven 1200km and i was easy on it the first 300km. I'm not keen on the idea of already getting a new piston, does anyone have any other ideas?

Engine start - Rough Idle/Engine sputtering

Hi everyone! I saw a similar post about three years ago regarding a similar topic (2002 Yamaha FZ1 - possible misfire at idle and low throttle. Sounds like a twin cylinder at idle and with the throttle cracked, but when throttle is increased it sounds like a 4 cylinder. Bike also likes to hang at 2000 rpm when it gets hot. Is this a blocked idle jet or a synchronization issue? : r/Fixxit). My bike sounds very similar and I would describe the problem as follows:

- During idle, the engine doesn't sound as smooth as it used it. It sounds like there is an irregular klanging noise, almost as if one cylinder isn't firing properly and is being dragged along with the others. This only occurs in the range of 1000 - 4000 rpm. As you can hear in the video, the idle is a little rough. Note: The engine isn't super cold, it had been running for 5 minutes to warm up, hence no need for the choke on start. Above 4000 rpm, the engine sounds normal and I think the power output is normal, but intuitively I would say it is not what it used to be.

- Additionally, when throttled is applied, the engine wants to sputter and die. In the video, I flick the throttle a little bit during idle, but have to release immediately because if I don't the engine would just cut out. This was not the case in the past, the bike had a very quick throttle response and it was not possible to drown the engine by applying a bit of throttle (obviously full throttle from idle would probably kill it).

- Additional odd symptoms that I've encounterd include the engine just cutting out sporadically during highway and urban driving. No warning, the RPM just drops to 0 and the engine is dead. I then have to pull over and try start it up again. Sometimes it works first time, sometimes I have to turn the ignition on and off, sometimes the starter button does nothing, it is extremely difficult to pinpoint the issue and reproduce the issue due to its sporadic nature.

Summary:

1. Rough idle

2. Sputtering/occasional backfire

3. Loss of power when applying throttle

4. Random/sporadic engine cut outs

What I've tried:

1. Replaced all spark plugs, one of them was particularly black and the gap was way out of specification (cylinder 3):

Cylinder 3 Spark Plug - Gap out of spec + excessive soot

2. Replaced throttle position sensor with a new genuine Yamaha sensor assembly (200€ - ouch). The original sensor was was still within specifications using a multimeter, but during the calibration mode, the tachometer needle wouldn't stay still and kept jumping around. It was not possible to configure it properly to 5000 rpm as stated in the manual. I also encountered a jumpy needle during calibration with the new sensor, but eventually I managed to get it to settle at 5000 rpm, I think it is fine now.

3. Calibrated TPS so that the tachometer displays 5000 rpm during diagnostic mode (as specified in manual)

4. Fuel additive to tank to clear a suspected blocked pilot valve

5. Adjusted idle screw and checked carb sync as in the video below. Unfortunately, the space to work in there is so cramped and I didn't have the correct tools to get to the sync screws so I did not make any adjustments. From the video, I think the carbs are synced well enough, not perfect, but I don't think they are causing the issue.

Carb Sync

My only other suspicions are a broken ECU/CDI, some weird electronic bug, bad ignition coils (but it seems to run ok at higher RPM), a loose wire, worn out engine timing chain, valve clearances out of specification or a blocked pilot valve since the issue appears to be more prevalant at a lower rpm where the pilot valve dominates the mixture.

I'm not quite sure where to look next, and am considering to just give it to a mechanic and pay him to fix it (will probably cost upwards of 400€), because maybe he should do a valve clearance check too, rebuild the carbs, and sync them for me if I'm going to hand in the bike.

Odometer is at 112.000 km.

Any tips/advice/suggestions/insights would greatly be appreciated. If more videos/pictures/tests would help to further diagnose, feel free to mention and I can upload more.

I changed the coolant and now when it runs it starts to leak from the said pipe. Any idea would be helpful, thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/dxw96dvbsb7e1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5797fbe6658b16472e9e2d20a5a6ac5ec934261

https://preview.redd.it/te112vl7rb7e1.png?width=346&format=png&auto=webp&s=42154f62defe9f0dd618a2a7c5b55affa4f4a7f9

Kawasaki z750 2010 color code?got the photo from internet,i wanna paint my z800 this paint but i dont know the color code is way different then normal color

There's an electronic connection to the engine that's blocking the airbox hose clamp screw, it's preventing me from putting an allen wrench correctly and loosening the clamp. I dont want to remove the electronic that's blocking the screw because it's connected to the engine, I'm too skeptical about it. Any suggestions?

https://preview.redd.it/g7wsjauh387e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c58620063e79f8966da11857df9933444f5e919

https://preview.redd.it/boybcauh387e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82ed38ae8a64e3b3d1935d7e43e6dbbe75f04540

https://preview.redd.it/kxpk7auh387e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e0b5a5a6da8914a4f1652288950f540a9e2d8af2

https://preview.redd.it/mg2lcauh387e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb8774b64a34552ee776be3c835c20f8224e316f

Looking to change my fork oil/ replace any consumable front suspension parts on my ‘06 Honda 919. I’ve found a decent amount of information on doing the actual job, but I was curious where can I get a kit/ parts that I know will fit my older bike?

Thanks!

Heya, I just cleaned the carburetors because it was idling poorly and I was losing power in midrange. After cleaning it worked beautifully for a hot second, much better response and I felt like the bike was finally alive. On my way to a friends house it started sputtering again and when I checked it there was gas everywhere. I pulled the carbs again and there was fuel in between the carb and the engine. I double checked everything and put it back together and when I got it idling again I pulled the vacuum line while it was running and there was fuel dripping out.

Two questions:

1. This petcock does not have a “prime” setting. Does that mean I cannot just plug the vacuum line until a new one arrives?

2. If there was fuel sitting on the wrong side of the carb (and some spraying out exhaust) am I boned? It rode ok back to the house but do I have to tear the engine apart because there’s gas in there where it shouldn’t be?

Thanks

*edit-update: I plugged the vacuum line and it ran for a second but it eventually starved out. Good news is I’m not leaking gallons of gas anymore so carb reinstall seems successful. Now to take the cock out.

I just bought this 09 R6 and the ONLY thing I didn't validate was the cold start. Everything else felt solid and looked solid. But when I cold started it to get it off the trailer, I tried to give it the smallest amount of throttle and it died..

Context: The bike has been sitting basically all year owner hadn't rode it much the last 2 years. I just filled the gas before I got home so I know it's not gas. When the bike warms up, it has absolutely no problem giving throttle and rides seemingly fine. The battery IS completely dead, but my jump box was hooked up to it when this happened

Update: I put the new battery from my other bike in it and the bike no longer dies when giving it throttle, but it's very inconsistent and almost seems like it's choking. l'm getting anxious trying to get to the bottom of this.

I've tried to take a couple of videos but I can't attach them here so l've uploaded them to YouTube and attached the links below.

If anyone has any idea what this could be please please let me know. l'm working on checking the; air filter and spark plugs now.

4 second clip of when it died: https://youtube.com/shorts/ASmuKzJfNlw?si= SrGOPS_gQLZ27N85

48 second clip of it not dying but choking on throttle: https://youtube.com/shorts/WyADF4s3rKU?si= G1TB6aeZdFRXif-v ama

this is for a friend, he said, “

Aight so boom ….chick in the pic was taking pics on the bike at work …she left the bike running all day and it died when I tried to start it using a car battery it shorted out I’ve tried buying a new battery Checking fuses Checking the computer Looking for stator to jump it from there Bike literally turns on and all lights come on but it has the gas light on even though it has gas which I was told it was a sign something was shorted So every time I go to start it all lights turn off… no turnover sounds No nothing just all power lost and comes back when I let go

Like when I hit ignition hold the clutch and gas to try to get it to start the power goes off and when I come off the gas and clutch it comes back on dimly”

I was just checking my classic 500 Royal Enfield I was recording about the status of my bike it’s 10 years old now leaving it aside I saw this

Image is attached can also share you the video as well if interested can anyone tell me has it cracked due to heat and is it repairable also does it cause acceleration issue??

Do you think this is repairable? Location of the screw is questionable, fixable or not? That groove just under the screw is really the sidewall. So far air has yet to leak in since I've noticed the screw.

need some parts..

In second gear at about 3500 rpms when accelerating up a hill or more rapidly than normal there is a loud clunk and the bike seems to lose power of a split second. Only happens in second gear, only at that 3500 rpm mark, and only when there’s some load or torque on the engine.

I feel like maybe it somehow slips out of gear for a split second? Worn gears maybe?

2003 klx300 got the bike from a friend who said the kickstarter isnt working… the kickstarter is loose and doesn’t return and when you try to use it the black seal pops out.