Inherited this from a recently purchased home. This particular valve is used to activate the bath tap but something in the copper snapped. No idea how to replace it though. Any ideas Reddit gang?

Few months back i painted my bedroom wall but it wasn’t done properly so i can some on some big area paint is lighter then rest of the wall. Can anyone tell me how to touch it up. Shall I use brush or roller for touch up. I do have rest of the paint available. Thanks

The catch has come out of my bathroom door handle, is it fixable or do I need to replace it?!

Hello! I recently bought my first home and I'm the upstairs neighbour in a 1905 Victorian property. I've not moved in yet as the place needed a bit of work before doing so, but being in the flat as little as I have, I can hear some of my downstairs neighbour's conversations and his TV - so by the time I'm in, he'll probably be hearing the same from me, plus my footsteps.

I'm getting LVT throughout the kitchen, living room and passage and carpet in the bedroom. As it's a flat, I don't think I own under the floorboards and recognise the neighbour's ceiling is very delicate, so will avoid adding any insulation underneath them.

My question is, what is the best option for (minor!) soundproofing that can lay under both LVT and carpet? A friend has suggested a rubber mat like - https://amzn.eu/d/iXFilAi with ply on top throughout as a base, and then respective underlays for the different flooring in the specific areas/just using the ply as an underlay outside of the bedroom. Would this be a good idea?

I'd rather do it right the first time than have regrets and have to redo! Any help would be valued. Thanks!

Have to replace a squeaky one after having some pipes sorted, can't seem to find any that isn't tongue and groove.

It's been cold tonight so got the thermal camera out to spot for anything suspect. This picture is in an upstairs bedroom. There's obviously a cold spot in the eaves, but should it be this big? I know there's meant to be a gap for ventilation but does it look too much?

Hi there.

My wife and I recently purchased a house in Yorkshire, and our surveyor pointed out getting some retorching done on our pitched slate roof. Just wondered if anyone would have some advice on how we could approach this in the most cost effective way? We've tried to find out how much the repair would cost, but have struggled to find it online.

Thank you!

Our house has a cramped but long attic: almost high enough to stand up in the middle and about 3m wide at the floor. It's also an early 90s house so has about 10cm of compacted wool insulation. I'd like to sort the latter and also board it over, without compromising too much on the former.

The easy solution would be to replace the existing 100mm with fresh insulation, and then put another 200mm on top and board on top of loft legs. But that's ~22cm of headroom lost, so is there a reasonably priced alternative that has would give me a modern level of insulation but without eating into all my headroom?

Hi all,

One of my radiators keeps hissing from the TRV when the tado thermostat kicks in. It’s fine when there’s a manual valve on it.

I was thinking of changing the TRV valve as some around the house has seen better days.

I was going to go for the Flomasta version but they are £20, compared to £10 for a generic brand.

There’s a small bit of rust inside at the base of this radiator that’s started to leak. I’m assuming this is impossible to repair given its location, or is it somehow? It’s about 6 inches from the side. Not the best pic I know..

My son has a roller blind over his cupboard instead of a door to save space (really small room) but the walls are so brittle whenever I drill a hole to put in a rawlplug the walls just crumble.

This wasn’t so bad but after a while the blind would no longer hold and the wall crumbled and the blind fell down. How can I strengthen this area or what can I fill the hole with to drill again that will hold the blind up? I’ve already tried fillers and they dont seem to work!

What am I supposed to do?

This must be the worst time of year to build an extension. They demolished the old one, which shared a wall with my house, and now they're building a new one. It also seems like the entire house is getting renovated.

Now the walls we share are getting mouldy.

The house was sitting empty for months after the previous owner died and the new owner left it a few more months before starting these renovations. It's probably been nearly a year now since that house had any heating in it, and our heating can barely get the house to 19°c on a cold day.

I can't afford a dehumidifier, but I do have some mould spray. I'm just worried that it'll come back. I am disabled and my husband has to work full-time plus care for our young children so we don't have lots of time to spend on this.

Will cleaning it down do?

I have old bathroom fittings in my utility, I want to hook up a washing machine. This is the cold water pipe (I think from an electric shower), can I just fit a washing machine on here?

If so, any tips?

Looking to remove render outside, is it doable doing it myself? I’m short and have zero DIY experience.

Has anyone ever hired scaffolding or found a cheaper alternatives?

Will the bricks need pointing after removal and if so would this need to be done straight away or could it wait?

I recently had a 18*8ft summer house built and installed on a concrete base in my garden with the intention of insulating and running power to it over the winter months so it's ready for next spring/summer.

Today I noticed that the summer house is not sat properly on its base. It is overhanging a little at the front and the base protrudes around 2-3 inches at the back. It appears they made the base too close to the perimeter fence so couldn't access to back without moving it forward.

Anyway... To me this poses a potential water pooling problem in the future and likely to prematurely rot the base timbers. Firstly, am I overthinking it (I don't think so). My thoughts on a solution would be to use wide flashing tape or similar to shed the water beyond the concrete base that protrudes. I'm not sure if the slight overhang on the front will be a problem long term or if the base fixings will be sufficient to support the weight.

Any ideas or better solutions would be welcome.

Hi, we’ve just moved into a 1950s terrace and have discovered the previous owner considered themselves a bit of a DIY aficionado, though tragically was all toolbag and no tools. I’ve opened a cupboard today and have found a partially screwed in wall socket with a totally exposed Earth wire. Is this normal? And is it safe?

Had a clogged shower drain so was told to twist it to pull out the middle compartment and remove all my body hair. In doing so i accidentally twisted the drain rim and now it feels loose and leaks.

Any idea on how I can tighten this without coming through the floor?