Hello Everyone,

I really need your guy's help with this. While back I updated the upholstery for the bottom cushion seats on my fun deck boat, and I was charged $1,500 for the service. Now, I'm looking to update the top ones, and I've been quoted $2,500. Am I being overcharged, or is it a reasonable price?

Additionally, I'm considering purchasing all the seats from pontoonstuff . com, which would total around $2,315.60. However, I still need to take measurements and find someone to install them, as I'm not capable of doing it myself. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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Gently pried the entire length up and then started again until it was totally out! Using the ultimate persuader.

Looking for opinions on the best epoxy for chips and cracks. I have used MAS quite a bit but wanted to see if people we using other brands for repairs.

This is my 2006 Robalo 227. Just purchased her and I'm trying to work over all the defects.

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I'm removing old teak and laying down synthetic teak. I need to pull up tracks (not sure their technical name)I'm having an incredibly hard time removing them. They're set in what I assume is either 3M 4800 or 5200. One side has been easier, but even that I've hit about 5 bolts that are difficult. In the image is an example of the tools ive employed so far. A manual impact screwdriver that can apparently generate 200ft/lbs of torque and my dewalt impact gun. Not shown is a manual large screwdriver with a wrench adapter on the shaft. I'm hesitant to use heat but let me know if thats a safe option or if there's any other ideas to try.

My school is currently having a build a boat contest next month and our group is currently designing our boat. It’s a race to the front of a pool and the back of it. We currently have our minds on a two man canoe (max of two people, 6x6ft. dimensions) and our figuring out how we should design it. Do you guys have any tips on canoe design? We are going to keep it a fairly rudimentary design (can’t curve wood, just straight edges) but I’m almost sure a lot of canoe building advice still applies. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Edit: Just want to mention we’re on an $200 dollar budget and other boats are allowed to bump into us/poke us.

Hi everybody. A friend did this simple varbish job on a table, repair of cracks and a couple of coats afterwards all over. The owner wasnt happy about the discoloration in the cracks. I think its normal. Is there anything she could of done to prevent this? The cracks where sanded down to wood.

Hello, the Internet has an overwhelming amount of rabbit holes when it comes to antifouling.

If anyone has advice or tips, that would be greatly appreciated!

• The old antifoul is an unknown product
• The iron keel is rusted
• Is the red/blue paint on the hull the 2 previous antifouls? Or is the red a primer?

If I must remove the old antifoul, is there a way to take it off without removing primer? What is the most sensible approach to this? Whilst balancing effort, quality and cost?

I'm currently planning on using an orbital sander to take off the old antifoul, patch in the primer with 6 coats where needed and apply 2 coats of antifoul with an extra coat at water line

For the keel I plan on using an orbital sander to go back to good iron, a rust treatment primer (Any suggestions?) And then 2 coats of antifoul - but I've seen info suggesting I need to let the iron breath for a couple weeks before priming?

Friends boat engine has a crack in it. 4.3 Litre Mercruiser Mercury “Turn key”. He has asked me to help diagnose but I’m not too familiar with boats lol. Can anyone tell me what part of the engine this is?? Thanks in advance!

Hey everybody!

What adhesives/epoxies do you generally use for areas prone to high water exposure?

In addition, if you know of any specifically that are know to withstand upwards of 200f/95c - or specifically is known to be good around components that generate heat in enclosed spaces, then I’d be very interested to hear about it.

The lid for an ultrasonic cleaner of mine delaminated where an acrylic window was bonded to a painted metal plate that laid over top of the tank and short of epoxying it with JB weld, I’m in the dark on what sorts of things to use for this specific application.

Seemed more or less in this alley, but any help or recommendations would be great.

Thanks!

I'm trying to reconnect my 1983 mercury 25 hp 2stroke to a new control box. What new control box's would be compatible, I want to make sure the wiring is correct. I understand the difference for gen 1 and gen 2 cables, but specific to the wiring is where my confusion is coming from.

Hi all! My boat came with this name (poorly) painted on. My bumpers are rubbing off the paint, and every time I wash it I get paint coming off, so I’d like to just fully remove it with as minimal impact to the rest of the boat’s finish as possible. Anyone have any suggestions? I was originally thinking some paint thinner, a scrub brush and a pressure washer, but lately I’ve been considering one of those rubber wheels that goes on a drill to remove decals and such. Any experiences? It looks better in the photo than in real life.

Sorry for the bad sketch. My calculations are probably wrong, especially the waterline. If you need some clarity, I will 😅. I plan on just taping the whole boat together and spraying flex seal. Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you

I was curios if there were any manufactures that sell a "naked" or "bare" hull.

Like you could purchase the hull of the boat but add the internals yourself? Is this a thing?

Not something I am actually interested in doing at the time just curios if it's a thing anyone does.

Thanks!

I’m building a stitch and glue dinghy to use as a tender to a sailboat on a mooring.

Because this is really only used to paddle back and forth about 100 ft from shore to mooring, I’m not the most worried about making the strongest boat possible. It will be stored indoors, but not specifically dried off after each use. because I only sail in the warmer months in a warmer climate, it would be frustrating but not disastrous if my boat were to disintegrate 1/4 of the way to the mooring, the very first time it’s in the water. I would like this to last longer than one season, but whenever it falls apart I can incorporate lessons I learn from this into the next iteration.

With that said, I would like to try to keep costs at an absolute minimum, and use materials that I have on hand, where at all possible. I have a small amount of epoxy, lots of fiberglass, some Titebond, a small amount of topside paint, and some furring strips. I will purchase a sheet of plywood. I’ve outlined the steps I intend to take below, obviously a professional boatbuilder would do this differently, but have I missed anything major?

1. Chamfer edges of panels with sandpaper to minimize gaps between panels.
2. Stitch 5mm plywood panels together with zip ties.
3. Titebond seams not blocked by stitches
4. Cut stitches, Titebond stitches, 1/4 inch fillet on all internal seams
5. Dry Titebond for a week indoors
6. 1/2-3/4 fillet internal seams with thickened epoxy, tape, laminate
7. Sand small fillet on external seams, no larger than plywood thickness
8. Tape, laminate exterior seams
9. Fiberglass bottom of hull, essentially below waterline
10. Sand lightly to debut/for finish adhesion
11. Titebond furring strip to gunwhale, clamp well
12. Tape off furring strips, 1 coat topside paint to everything else
13. Varnish furring strips, thin coat, less thin coat, full strength coat

So my questions are as follows:

I am attempting to keep the Titebond limited to a small width at the joints, which should keep the joint together while I glass over it. The glass will be much wider than the Titebond, so I am assuming the small loss of bonding area at the corner, and associated loss of strength, will be dwarfed by the strength of the composite on either side. Is this valid?

I am assuming the fiberglass at all seams will seal the ends of the ply there. However, there will be no fiberglass or epoxy on the top (gunwhale) edge of the ply, only paint. Is this sufficient? If I thin the paint beforehand (allowable per paint datasheet) will it wick better into the wood, sealing it better than a full-strength application? Do I need to purchase paint hardener?

I've been recommended a 2K Polyurethane resin for the job, but i'm not sure if that's a standard product, or if there are different kinds, and what should i be aware of?

I just found this Reddit and saw some of my favourite YouTube boat builders on here so I thought I; 'd join... I; 'm absolutely new to boat building other than helping my dad rebuild a 15' ski boat in the late 80s..

I recently fell in love with the PM-38 from Popular Mechanics magazine 1962.
https://www.svensons.com/boat/?f=RunaboutsOutboard/pm38/pm38.pdf

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Being a pensioner I can't quite afford to build the full boat so I set out to build a 1/4 scale version, so I could at least get the experience of doing it and learning hands-on...

Just stuck together. No glue or anything, just the joints holding tight.

I've gone with 1/4 scale as this way the thinnest 1/4" plywood skins could still be made with veneer when scaled down to 1/4th. I'm still considering the cost of the veneer, or to just try and do everything with 4mm plywood. The model is roughly 1m in length so it should be able to make the required bends.

I think the bit around the stem will likely be the hardest to figure out. how to bend and attach as the stem is only about 14mm thick at the scale I chose. I have to possible ways of attempting that bit in my head at least for now... worst case I will have to relent and get at least some veneer. even if it is just for the front bottom.

Anyhow, thought I'd share and hope it keeps me motivated to complete it.

Oh yeah don't really have anybody to share it with, but I created a little boat design with AI assistance... It is probably horribly shaped for being an efficient boat, but I still loved it so much... I'll just tack it on here to get it out of my system while I'm sharing.

Little AI boat

I've been in the process of refitting a 23ft yacht for a couple of years nearly. Travel etc makes it a pain also all the rain we've had this past year always seems to be on my free time. so I've decided I need a small boat to get on the water with.

Last year I cut some frames for a Pacific Proa but that stalled. Now I've started a West Mersea Duck Punt. My goal is to make a cheap boat and if it lasts me a couple of years i'll be happy.

I'm framing it with treated roofing lats, it's going to be planked in exterior grade hardwood ply. Initially I'll be paddling it like a canoe whilst I build the sailing rig.

Anyway it's currently in my living room (only dry space big enough) being built in two sections that I'll bolt together when I use it. Also I can sit and have a coffee and ponder my next job. I'm not a precision worker generally but I've taken more measurements making this than anything ever.