I am interested in getting into headlight restoration and found the 3M kit with the orange pad and compound. I would like to use Chemical Guys All in one polish and sealant as the final step. Can I skip the 3M compound? Will using both be overkill or would they hold hands and make a better finished product?

My beloved Grandma recently got a new car (2024 Mazda Cx-5 in Jet Mica Black). Her car got very dirty as we are currently in between seasons in NJ. I wash my own car and are careful making sure to use good soap, a pressure washer, grit guards, high quality microfiber towels, etc etc (by no means an expert). I promised and insisted that I would clean her car. She decided to take matters into her own hands (without telling me) and cleaned her car. She used Palmolive degreasing soap, a dish sponge (thankfully not the green part), and an old cotton towel.

When she showed me her work with gleaming pride…my eyes shot open to see her brand new black paint covered in paint swirls. Also she just didn’t clean her roof because she couldn’t reach it. Well I didn’t want to make her upset but I asked (more like begged) her to never clean her car again.

I know you can buff/polish paint swirls out. One, I’ve never done this and am understandably nervous. Two, I’m a college student so going out and buying $200-$300 worth of equipment wouldn’t be realistic. Three, where the heck do I even start!?

I’ve researched a bit about getting paint swirls out of a car, but none of the videos are super clear or helpful. I feel like this should be easy, yet the videos make it seem super complicated. I’m going to be honest and say that I will probably go to harbor freight tomorrow (bc there is a 15% coupon) and try and attempt to fix this.

And video tutorials, product suggestions, or more realistically prayers would be greatly appreciated!

I tried to sand the chipped paint then rust showed up. Is it too late to remove now? Should I just cover it with sticker then polish the remaining sanded paint?

We have Polstar and Greenstar none of which give any protection. Read thru dozens of posts and can’t figure out which one to buy possibly for best versatilite protection. I have seen Topstar for interior, pss for exterior and tires, QS and QF. Don’t know which of these to choose if any compared to like Carpro Perl. Thanks for suggestions

DIY applied Adams Graphene Ceramic from the bottle 3 years ago on a new Volvo XC90. Daily driven, but few miles since the wife works from home (about 18,000 miles).

Started raining and the car was parked outside while I did an engine flush on the other car. Saw that the beading was still good and snapped a picture.

Interested to hear recommendations to clean satin black (BBS) wheels.

I previously have used Mcguire's Hot Wheels on traditional aluminum wheels. It was the best l've ever used, but I do not believe it's safe to use on these wheels.

I have been using Adam's wheel and tire since buying my car last year. It appears to clean the wheels ... Just OK, but doesn't seem to really clean as good as Mcguire's.

I've tried Chemical Guys Diablo wheel cleaner ... And that does not work as well as Adam's. Looking for suggestions on safe cleaning solution for my wheels. Thanks in advance!

Since winter (salt) is coming and car wash drive throughs are not recommended, how does one practically wash the carbottom in winter? To prevent corrosion. Any winter tips?

Was given a free car from my family, slowly working on cleaning it up. The windshield has scratches from (I'm assuming) old wipers that scratched the windshield. Was wondering of methods to get the scratches off, they aren't deep and my fingernails don't get caught on them. Thank you

Hello all,

Just thought I’d post a mini review for those considering purchasing the product.

Did a wash, decon, one step, and panel prep.

Ease of use: 9/10

I used a DA to spread the product. It has a liquid consistency. I thought it would be thicker. But it was fine.

It flashed almost immediately. I worked outside in 80 degree weather in the shade. Used a MF towel to buff it off and had no issues.

Results: 5/10

Kinda disappointed to be honest. Bottle stated gloss was 9,2. I mean I got most of the gloss from the one step (which is fine). I expected to see a bigger difference. But maybe that’s just me.

Also there was static? As soon as I buffed it off I felt it. I wonder if it was the friction from the Mf towel? I’ve never felt that before. It also attracted a lot of dust and particles (after parking car indoors)

Value: 9/10

I used enough product to cost the vehicle and barely made a dent in the bottle. I drive a compact sedan so that’s probably why. Cost about 30 USD.

Final thoughts:

I previously coated the vehicle with Gyeon can coat and maintained it for a year with ceramic spray. I had no issues but wanted to try something different and there’s not a lot of info out there on hartwachs. My local detailing shop had one bottle left and they were no longer going to carry the product so I pulled the trigger.

I have some hydrofoam sealant so I’ll wait a while and coat the car with that next time.

Would I use it again? Probably not lol.

I’m planning to polish my aluminium wheels, but there is some wear that I’m not sure how to deal with. The white scratches look like the ”coating” would be completely gone. Is it possible to polish these wheels into a ”chromed” look like I already did with the lip?

Per some of my previous posts, I’m looking to do a ceramic coating on a daily driver soon. For background, I’ve worked in a professional shop and have done full corrections followed by spray waxes (C2v3 in particular) and have substantial prep work experience as well; however, I’ve never installed a coating.

The above said, I’m looking for some advice on order of operations after wash bay prep has been performed. Specifically, in addition to a 2 step correction and application of CSL + EXOv5, I’d like to polish the glass to remove water spots and coat the glass (C1), and I’d like to restore the trim using solution finish and apply a trim coating (Ceramic Trim Restore from GTechniq). My initial thoughts are that I should tape off the paint at trim edges and restore it, followed by coating the trim first. Then I could tape off the trim itself and polish the glass and the paintwork, and then coat both after a panel wipe. Does this OOO make sense? Or should it be done in a different order?

I have a 1998 Pontiac Trans AM (silver). Paint is in excellent condition. I've always used Meguiers Gold something or other wax. I haven't bought any new products in probably 15 years. I'm needing to "wax" my car again, but I know there have been advancements in this space since I last bought something. (ceramics, hybrids, sealants, etc)

My car is garaged most of the time, and rarely, if ever, sees rain. I was it once every 1-2 months, always without soap. Just H20.

Given my car and situation, what would be the best new product for me?

Thanks in advance!

I’m a truck driver (company driver) and the company I work for now gets the trucks detailed once a month but I’d like to keep it clean in between details. I was thinking of using an apc diluted down but thought I should ask here if there was anything better. We haul a lot of citrus so some of the juice tends to get on the trucks.

what technique do you favor, I have all the time in the world is my own car multi layer? quartz then add graphene?,

Anyone having issues with ceramic coating textured plastics like the B pillars on a Chevy 1500 style? I typically use Adam’s graphene coat for stuff like this, and I tried cerkote trim coat multiple times to a super streaky finish. All of that stuff ended up getting solution finish over it after stripping. But does anyone have advice for coating plastics with something like Adam’s graphene to leave an even finish? I’m not new to coating by any means, just having some trouble with plastics.

Hello, I have these not deep scratches. What product can you recommend to cover them up? I've read about the use of Meguiar's plastx in several places, but I don't know. I've read about Heat gun but I haven't used it yet and I don't dare. I'm afraid I'll make more trouble.

https://preview.redd.it/sxkf41wbwhyd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b30b1dd4af7cd759504eff2c12a250038086b642

So my car’s finish doesn’t feel very slick after a ONR wash and TW WetWax application. I figured there are surface contaminants that need to be clayed off. Since I just “detailed” it, Can I just go over it with an IPA wipe down and then clay it with a wash solution or should I just do a full Dawn wash, rinse, and wax/polish application?

My aging vehicle has parts of thick lower-body trim that aren’t responding to Maguire’s Ultimate Black. No matter how much product I vigorously apply, the trim still looks like a white/gray/faded black patchwork. Replacing the trim is not an option.

Experts:

1. Is there another rub-on product that will actually work?

2. Would a sanding with a light grit and then applying Maguire’s UB help remove the discoloration? Or does it go so deep beneath the surface it won’t help?

3. Would a plastic-specific black paint like Krylon be a solution, or would it make things worse?

4. Will Maguire’s work if I just keep reapplying day-after-day for… a week? Month? Until the end of time?

Please no “torch the trim” suggestions - I’m looking for something somewhat long-lasting and that won’t destroy the plastic.

Thanks to all in advance! 🫶🏻

I am planning on doing a paint correction and ceramic coating myself, but I am in the research phase of this project.

Do I do a decontamination wash before claying the paint? And is a decon wash simply a “strip” wash product?

Also, am I supposed to do the decon wash after each step (after claying, after polishing, etc) or just in the very beginning?