the back driver side door handle (exterior handle) won’t do the “thing” when i pull it to open the door. im not car savvy, sorry. i was able to open the door from the inside so i thought maybe the child lock had something to do with it and we turned it the wrong way so now i am unable to open the door from the inside (shut up i know) please tell me what to do. it happened after my sister slammed the door shut, now we can’t use the exterior handle to open it but the interior handle worked fine until we triggered the child lock, thinking that would fix it. please tell me this is fixable. so far i’ve come to the conclusion that taking off the internal door panel to see what damage was done is my best guess? if i can even do that with the door closed lol

I have a mazda cx5, and was backing out in the parking lot and the car dropped. Wheel was bent out, and i had to get it towed. Based on the picture, any idea whats happened here? I see the wheel has disconnected from an arm, any idea what its called, and a potential $ amount to get this fixed? Thanks.

Hi I have a 2013 Honda accord exl coupe v6 automatic with 132,000 miles on it, I have had it for about a year & a half now and I’ve notice a whining noise during accelerating and decelerating but during park,reverse there no whining noise also the whining noise can only be heard in cabin . I’ve done a serpentine belt change I’ve had the timing belt looked at and transmission fluid change still makes the noise any advice what it could be ?

All computers in my dealer are unable to log into CDK. CDK crashed on all computers and after logging back in we are getting a crash report. Anyone else?

I have a manual 2000 TJ Wrangler with a 2.5L 4-cylinder engine. On January 4, I replaced the alternator with an Ultima 117 Amp (R111073B). The next day, I installed a new battery (EverStart Size 34, 12 Volt, 700 CCA). Afterward, the Jeep ran fine, but there was a squeaking sound.

While replacing the alternator, I noticed the serpentine belt was slightly frayed along the edges, so I decided to replace it with a Duralast Belt 923K6. The squeak is now gone, but I’ve noticed a new issue. When I downshift from 5th gear at around 60 mph and take my foot off the gas, the Jeep jerks a bit to the left.

To troubleshoot, I loosened the tensioner so there’s about ¼ to ½ inch of depression on the longest stretch of the serpentine belt. This seemed to help a little, but the jerking is still there.

It didn’t feel like this right after replacing the alternator or battery. Is it transmission issue, and if so, why would it start after replacing the serpentine belt?

Since Autel removed the ES File Explorer app and replaced it with Google Files, it’s almost impossible to back up data to SD. Every time the screen turns off, the copying process pauses. Does anyone else have this problem, and is there already a solution?

Hi all, I'm an audio producer working on a legit project funded by the MIchigan Humanities Council in which Michiganders talk about their jobs. One of the jobs I'm really hustling to include is that of a long-time auto mechanic who might suddenly be dealing with electric/hybrid cars and not totally down with that program :) Specifically, I'm looking for someone in Michigan who's willing to talk about what they do, tell stories about it, and talk about how it affects their lives. If you fit the bill, reach out directly and I can give you more info on the project and us. Thanks!

Sorry if this isn’t in the right subreddit or seems a little jumbled. It’s my first time ever dealing with insurance/a collision repair shop to have a car fixed so I don’t really know what to expect.

In May 2024, I bought my car from a dealership (Kia K5). Then, at the end of September 2024, I was hit by a woman running a red light. I was declared not at fault by insurance and was given a list of auto body shops that we could choose from to fix the car by her insurance company. It took about a month and a half to get the ball rolling with her insurance and into the auto body shop for an estimate.

November 4, 2024 the estimate was done, and pretty much the entire right side of my vehicle from the front bumper to the back, including rims, need to be replaced/repaired. It was estimated at around $8.5K in damages, plus another $1K to have the new parts re-clear coated after the fact (which her insurance approved.) The car is still able to be driven, but it irks me to no end that I only had it 4 months in perfect condition and have been driving it around smashed up since then, by no fault of my own. The woman who hit me was already having her car repaired at the time we got the estimate (coincidentally, at the same body shop we went to.)

We were told by the auto body shop they were about 6-8 weeks out with their schedule at that time. However, we still have not received any information from them on when my car is going to be fixed almost 3 months later. We call once or twice a week (which seems to be annoying them at this point) asking for updates, and every time they are pretty dismissive and we are told they are waiting for parts, & we’ll hear back when they get them in.

Is it typical for it to take this long for parts to come in and have the car repaired? I don’t want to be that person who’s constantly calling and being annoying if it’s the norm, but it just seems like it’s taking longer than usual. I looked up a few other Reddit posts of people with Kia’s who said it only took a few weeks to have theirs done.

It’s not really relevant, but I am also heavily pregnant with a high risk pregnancy and am really hoping I will not have to install a car seat and take my newborn home in a rental car. Is there any way I can get things moving on this, or am I SOL until I hear back from them? Am I able to go through another auto body shop instead even though the parts have already been ordered?

Thank you!

My dad’s Tesla Model 3, according to a local tire shop, has a tread wear rating of 5 for both front tires, and 3 for the LR and 2 for the RR. I don’t know much about tire rotations, but I assume we could swap the rear tires to the front and move the front tires to the back. Would this help even out the wear? Is this a good plan?

I work at a startup. We’re building an AI receptionist for auto shops.

Our product answers the phone for you, talks to your customers, handles scheduling, payments, and more. We’re hoping to help shop owners and mechanics spend less time on the phones, and more time fixing cars.

We’d love to chat with you and learn more about the biggest pain points of running a shop, or how we could help.

I know this type of post will probably be skipped over but just wanted to put it out here in case anyone would be interested in being an early user for free of course.

Cheers.

I have a 2013 F150 with a well maintained 160k. 5.0, 4x4. Over the past week I’ve noticed it running warmer than usual. Not boiling over (yet) but much warmer than usual. No leaks, no loss of coolant, fans kick in around 214°. Transmission is also hotter than normal. It seems fine at highway speeds but if left to idle both engine and trans start getting borderline too warm. Air and heat both work fine. Coolant is full and trans fluid level is spot on. I went through the cooling system just a couple of years ago. New Motorcraft water pump,all new Motorcraft hoses, fittings, o-rings, new Motorcraft t-stat, and coolant flush with the new Motorcraft yellow that spec’s for the truck. No air in system. I’m at a loss as to why it’s happening. Any help?

My husband was an auto mechanic before he passed away. I’m trying to identify several tools he had. Any guesstimate on resale value or relevance would be very helpful!! (He passed away 10 years ago - some of his tools may be outdated)

Hey y’all, I’m looking to pick some brains on a problem I’m having with my 2018 Silverado. A while ago my dash was popping the “stabilitrack” “abs” and “traction control” messages. The lights on the dash and the notifications would pop up sporadically on and off. With that, my dash was also showing that my front driver side wheel would lose traction even though it was in a 2 wheel (rear wheel) setting. So I changed the wheel sensor, and after starting the vehicle the lights and warnings are no longer sporadic they are permanently on. I’ve tried 3 different wheel sensors, and replaced the harness side adaptor as well. I’ve checked the hub bearing, by raising it off the ground and pulling and pushing and I have no movement of any kind so I don’t think that’s the issue. I’ve checked fuses, and back tracked the wiring and see no rips or splits. Does anyone have any other ideas? Thanks 👍🏻

So, I had small leak from my radiator. I noticed it Thursday, filled my radiator resivor up to max. In a week of driving long distance, I went from max line to minimum. Took it to a shop to see if they could find it as I could not find it. The mechanic said there is a small crack on my radiator right by the temp sensor. He said I should replace, but its such a small leak. It wasn't necessary to do it right away, as getting a OEM sensor. So I put a bottle of Kseal in my resivor and have droven a full week, without a loss of coolant. Should I still replace my radiator, or will I be fine with the seal?