/r/AutoMechanics
A sub for mechanics to share assistance and interesting news, and where car owners can ask mechanics for help and advice without being billed $100/ hour.
A place for professional techs and anyone interested in cars, car repair, or the industry can hang out, share interesting news and stories, and help other users with their automotive related questions.
Free online repair manuals for some older cars:
Professional service information subscription for one car can be purchased for $30/year here:
Professional OE service information access and programming subscriptions can be purchased here:
FCA (Chrysler/ Dodge/ Jeep): https://www.techauthority.com
Ford/ Lincoln/ Mercury: https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/SetCountry?returnUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.motorcraftservice.com%3A1402%2F
GM: https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions
Honda/ Acura: https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.aspx
Jaguar: http://www.oemrepairinfo.ca/links/jaguar.html
Mercedes Benz: https://www.mercedes-benz.ca/en/owners/service-maintenance/technical-information
Nissan: https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/home.aspx
Subaru: https://techinfo.subaru.com/stis/#/purchase_subscription
Volvo: https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=item.subscriptions
National Automotive Service Task Force: Links to manufacturer service information, programming information, security professional information and registration, and other useful information for professional techs.
https://sdrm.nastfsecurityregistry.org/dotorg/landing
ADAS calibration requirement database:
https://rts.i-car.com/oem-calibration-requirements-search/calv-2785.html#cih
International Automotive Technician Network: Site for professional techs, offering free repair assistance, discussion forums, tool and equipment reviews, a searchable repair database, waveform libraries, and tons of other useful information:
Diagnostic Network: Another site for professional techs, similar to what iAtn was in the earlier days before being bought by Identifix
VIN Decoder; identifies build options by VIN https://www.northamericanmotoring.com
Parts sources:
Ballenger Motorsports: this company manufactures electrical connectors to order, including ones that are not available OE. Excellent service. https://www.bmotorsports.com/
Touch up paint, including location of paint codes: www.Paintscratch.com
/r/AutoMechanics
My 2009 Toyota Matrix, engine model 2ZR-FE. Check engine light turned on, and the engine started shaking/vibrating non-stop. Took it to my local mechanic shop to get it fixed. Right away, the diagnostic cost $125. They determined that the spark plug and the ignition coils were the cause. I needed to replace the spark plug and all four ignition coils. My final total for the parts, labor and tax is $860.60. Car runs just fine after. When I got home, I decide to look at the prices for parts that needed to fix the car, and it was much cheaper than what they charged me. After that, I feel like this could’ve been done at a much cheaper price. I am no mechanic, maybe I’m just an idiot and the amount I got charged is the right amount. What do you guys think?
Diagnostic: $125
Spark Plugs: $81
Coils: $415
Labor to remove and replace spark plugs and coils: $190
Tax: 49.60
Final Total: $860.60
Was planning to rebuild the rack and pinion on a 2010 Chevy Impala. The pinion does not look like it’s in very good shape but I can’t find anywhere to purchase a new one. Even a seal kit is hard to come by and have only found one place that has it. Probably going to just get a used R&P from a junk yard but would still like to attempt the rebuild just for the hell of it. Any info is appreciated.
I have a 2016 Kia Sorento that I've not been driving much due to illness. I went out to start it and move it and the gear shift was very tight and hard to put into gear. I was able to move the car in reverse and was able to get it into drive. When I went to put it in park though, it wouldn't go into park and is now locked up and won't go into any of the gears. What can I do to fix this problem?
I need an automatic transmission and my friend said he'd found one 2hours away at a junk yard. I gave him $600 to go get it and the next day (as I worked 10 hours that day and just went home and passed out) he tells me that he went there to the junk yard removed it from a vehicle that looked like mine (2dr honda civic lx 1.75 litre) just a different color. He then took it back to his shop close to home to only then realized it was a manual. So did this guy knowingly screw me over? Cause ain't there parts that differ between the two that are significantly apparent? Like the clutch pedal??? Or should I give him the benefit of the doubt he said he can't take it back cause they don't do refunds and he said he is just going to "try" and sell the wrong one to make my money back and get the right one. So wtf mates?
Guys i have 2004 toyota prado what would be the cause of all these codes and in the dash the airbag and abs lights are not popping up maybe the lights are removed or what ? Does anyone have any idea how to get them back I just bought the car and found that the complete wiring is ruined would that be case of all these codes or not how to solve from where should i start
Last October, I took my car in to have it inspected. I had an EVAP leak, so we ordered a new EVAP purge solenoid. It passed, I picked up the car, but the check engine light came on a few days later and has come on and off a few times throughout the year. My bf has checked it a few times, and it always says the same code, which he then clears.
Just took it in for another inspection. I was told I needed to replace my muffler (no surprise, but the pic they sent had more damage than it did when my bf changed my oil the week before - he described it as a hole, they sent a pic of it no longer attached). They also said that I should replace my battery, which I should. I said no to the battery.
Got my final invoice and it was only $20 less than the original quote because they increased the hours worked. When I questioned it, I was told "the bolts the were completely rotted. I had to cut everything out with the torch. It took me an extra hour because it was such a rusted and then I had to buy a spring bolt kit initially I would've hoped to reuse it, but it was too rusty. that's why I took extra time." My bf was confused about why he couldn't see that when he initially looked at it and sent the invoice... but ok.
Then I get a text saying that the EVAP code came up and I need a new solenoid? He tells me it will cost about $50 plus an hour of labor. I need this car to pass, and dont realize this is the same part he replaced last year, so I agree.
I got the final invoice today. He charged me for a $95 smoke test and an hour of labor. No solenoid. When I asked why the increase again, I was told "The one actuator. For the evap system was stuck. We freed it with the scan tool. We saved u. Money. This way to not buy parts."
If the part was quoted at $50 and the test is $95, it did not save money. Also, if the solenoid that you put in last year wasn't working, then shouldn't you fix it free of charge? I am so confused and my partner is very confused and unhappy. Can anyone explain this to me? Does this sound logical, or should I debate this? And if I do, what would I say? I can't tell if the guy is trying to be helpful or is scamming me. Sorry if I sound uneducated and naive. This is why women get ripped off all the time when it comes to cars. I just need it running so I can get to work. Any advice would be appreciated.
I think this is a common and relatively easy fix, but can anybody confirm the squeaky sound? Brakes or suspension maybe? Will take to mechanic but trying to be educated first. Fair cost to fix/replace in central AL?
Thanks for any insight!
Hello, hoping someone out there can help me. After installing an aftermarket radio, it quickly smokes. When I reverted to the factory radio, it does this weird fan whiney noise and car won't start. I found out that the radio is connected to the AC controller (apparently if you want to control the AC through optional smart feature). Anyways, the controller won't come on when plugged in, but radio does.
Tried to start it with AC controller unplugged, no luck.
Engine does not start, makes the scary noise seen in the video. Have to unplug battery to get it to stop.
Car will start up fine but will completely shut off when getting to operating temp. Then I will let it cool down for 10 minutes and it starts up again. Had a knock sensor code and that got switched out. But still experiencing that problem
Had an alignment done on my MB 4matic. Mechanic said no concern with front camber outage because left and right are the same. Truth?
I was cleaning out my throttle body and found this in my line and polled it out why was it here or did the old owner forget about it.
Hello, I’m 18 yo and I’m driving a 2020 Mazda cx3 and long story short, my car accidentally ran all night last night. I had 0 miles left of gas and barely made it to the gas station, I was rolling when I made it in front of the pump. When I finished filling gas I had my check engine light on, and my car won’t accelerate fast now and it feels like I’m driving in neutral basically. I’m a college student and I have $40 to my name. Please someone give me some insight about what’s happened and why and how I can cheaply fix it. Thank you in advance.
Guys who are paid hourly with perfomance bonuses. what is your hourly rate and what performance bonuses do you get and what are they based on? looking to present this to my employer and would like different examples
I have a 2011 Grand Cherokee limited.
My passenger side heat stopped working and then a day or two later, my radio/screen went out to a black screen.
The driver side heat works just fine. It’s hot, not just slightly warm.
What would cause this?
Hi all, my partner was complaining about hearing a "twang" noise and their clutch pedal is now easily movable from left to right.
Upon looking at the pedal, it appears that the return spring has extended on it causing the stopper at the top of the arm pinging off so the pedal isn't held together. I have pictured the part. Does anyone know if I can get just that part/what it's called? I've tried researching online but it seems you can only get the whole pedal mechanism, which seems silly for a little thing like that. I have already ordered a return spring. The car is a 2013 Audi A1 TFSI 1.2 Petrol right hand drive.
Thanks in advance
I've tried everything to get this bolt out. i tired used a impact wrench, 2 foot breaker with a 2 foot bar and its just spinning. I've looked and people have said the nut inside was broke off but i cut an access hole and the nut is still intact. only thing i see is cutting the bolt but the end will be still stuck inside. kinda at a lost with what to do about this. any help will be great. i can take videos and pictures in the morning if it will help
Hey guys so I bought this 2005 Toyota Corolla LE in 2022 for just under $5k. Had 131,712 miles when I bought it and now is around 136,700. Physically, she's seen better days. A couple scrapes and some minor door damage on the passenger side. It needs a few repairs. Needs new wheel bears hub on the driver rear wheel and I have a couple codes causing check engine light to come on. Codes P0138 and P0456. Also heat is very hit or miss. Some days it works and some days it doesn't. My question is, based on this clip and sounds of it what state is the car in engine? And are all these repairs worth me fixing? I have a 2019 CRV but I would love to keep this thing as long as I can as a daily work commuter but if I'm gonna be dumping a bunch of money I would rather not.
Hey guys so I bought this 2005 Toyota Corolla LE in 2022 for just under $5k. Had 131,712 miles when I bought it and now is around 136,700. Physically, she's seen better days. A couple scrapes and some minor door damage on the passenger side. It needs a few repairs. Needs new wheel bears hub on the driver rear wheel and I have a couple codes causing check engine light to come on. Codes P0138 and P0456. Also heat is very hit or miss. Some days it works and some days it doesn't. My question is, based on this clip and sounds of it what state is the car in engine? And are all these repairs worth me fixing? I have a 2019 CRV but I would love to keep this thing as long as I can as a daily work commuter but if I'm gonna be dumping a bunch of money I would rather not.