Need to replace the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly in my 2012 Toyota Yaris along with the ABS sensor. My garage quoted me $470 CAD per hub assembly but my local parts store has cheaper ones at $170, there's no in-between options.

Videos make it look pretty simple when changing out the whole thing, I've done the front bearing and hub assembly on my S10. But why is one part like triple the cost of the other and is it worth it, safety wise?

Hey, didn’t really grow up knowing anything about cars, what’s like a few things I need to know to be able to work on my vehicle? It’s a Pontiac sun fire 02, literally never done auto work. I don’t want to be inept. I can look up resources but I just want to know to most important things. I’ve done a bunch of trades but never worked on a car. I can do an oil change and that’s about it. Also want to impress my girlfriend lol. If my car flatlines I’d love to be able to do a couple things even if they’re basic. The car is in good shape but I need to know what I need to know I guess. All help is appreciated. Thank you.

Hello. I’m hoping it’s okay to pick your brains, especially if you’re a diesel mechanic.

I have a 6.7 Cummins (2016) that blew the engine and I ordered a new one, and had my friend/mechanic put the new engine in. We’ve got everything hooked up but it’s a no start. It cranks but doesn’t seem like the fuel injection pump is getting very much fuel. It just sputters.

We thought maybe we had a bad lift pump so we changed it. We changed the fuel filters. We even put a new fuel injection pump on. My mechanic noticed a burn in the relay/ fuse board so we put another in. Nothing seems to work. We double check that everything is grounded and all electrical cables are hooked up.

The truck doesn’t produce any codes. We didnt necessarily do all the things mentioned in that order. Obviously just replacing things is never a good remedy but we’re kinda stuck when we don’t have codes and everything ‘appears’ to be properly connected.

Thanks to all that may have some Suggestions - it’s appreciated.

I have a 2019 Chevy Impala V6 with 95k miles. I noticed that she wasn’t driving as smoothly and her RPM was fluctuating and going much higher than normal. When I was idle I also felt the engine shaking every now and then when usually it just purrs and you can’t even tell it’s on. I opened the hatch and heard a ticking noise coming from the engine and it was shaking just as I had felt. Took her to the dealership and had an oil change and fuel treatment done. Still happening, if anything it’s worse. They visually diagnosed her with an oil leak but I had never noticed the oil level dropping or any dripage so it can’t be that bad.

If anyone could give me some ideas of what it might be and if I should continue to be worried that would be great!

So i have an 02 civic (D16 motor) that is getting exhaust into the coolant. its 180k miles i think its the original motor im not sure. I paid 900$ for the car and have put about 900$ into repairs etc. Shops are recommending a new motor to be put in which are around 4k to do. Should i just ho ahead n put some k seal in it? m really just wanting this to be my girls car to learn driving, for work, short trips to the store etc. Basically a daily. Thoughts?

how hard would it be to rewire and add a carb and distributer on a pre 2000's car so it would run?

I have a 2007 Toyota Highlander. It has 180K miles but still running like a champ. But I have kids and pets and so my seats are a disaster. Are there replacement seats I can buy? Or any recommendations for quality seat covers? Thank you!

Just got this car - Toyota Camry 2009 - and I noticed if I drive for awhile i can feel hot air under the steering wheel (not blowing air but it just gets hot) and then today I took out my key and noticed it was hot to the touch. Any ideas or if this is normal? TIA.

Automotive service technician in Ontario Canada. Not myself but a coworker/close friend was pressured to sign an annual commercial safety. The truck in question is a company truck for a friend of the big boss. Another tech who is our union steward signed for truck just last year in the same condition that my friend is failing this year. Word has gotten around that our big boss is paying the bill for the stuff that he failed this year. And the boss is pissed at my friend for failing it. Before the call was made my manager made it very clear that our boss wouldn't be happy about this and asked my friend if he was sure before the call was made. Now there's rumours that the big boss is going to lay him off for this. What is the legality on retaliation for something like this? It's a complicated situation so I hope I didn't do too bad a job or relaying it.

Good day. I've had a launch creader 129e for about a year now. Used mostly on a 2014 dodge charger. I did an update on it about 3 weeks ago. Prior to that update, it would scan about 15 systems in my car, now it only does 4. Is this scantool ready for the garbage now? Is there any way to roll it back? I sent an email off to the launch people in China, I don't have much hope. Anyone else experience this or have a work around? Thanks

I got an oil change today and the mechanic showed me how my front tire wiggles a bit and the other front tire too,but not much. I don't have any steering problems,but if I go over say, 40, and brake to fast I hear a thumping. Am I really in danger going 40 or less? So far, so good, I will get them replaced but I don't have several hundred dollars to do it now. But this mechanic has really scared me.

Long story as short as I can.

I own a Hyundai I30 2017 1.6 crdi diesel with 90k km's on it.

Recently it's been having random trouble starting. Began with auto stop and progressed. It sounds like the starter motor is spinning but not engaging if that makes sense. When it does start the engine sounds very 'thinny' or 'rattley'.

I had to get road side assistance yesterday and the guys did a push start with me to get it going. Tried the same today but can't get it going.

Need to get it started to go to the mechanics. Any ideas of how to jump and what the issue may be?

Tldr : diesel starter motor not engaging randomly. Idea's on how to get it going.

So I have a family member that’s living with us who has a 2012 Mazda 3 with 285k miles. They had the car towed home, and was told the tranny is going out. They’re itching to get something else, but me and my partner knows it will further handicap their ability to move out. My suggestion is to have the tranny rebuilt. Is this worth it, or should the car be junked. TIA

My parents have 2007 Buick Lucerne that I drove in high school. After I left to college, it started having some electrical issues and my parents took it to a local mechanic to have him look at it. Keep in mind, my parents live in a small town with a population of about 6000 people. That was three years ago, and they still don’t have the car back. To make matters worse, they don’t know where the car is. They have tried to ask the mechanic and they just said they moved it to one of their other lots. I understand this not ethical, but is it even legal? My parents wonder if they should scrap it or if they can find it and have it fixed. Thoughts?

I feel it is missing something, am I right? Is the car safe to drive?

Hello I have a 2007 Honda Civic Lx the ac compressor pully was broken. My dad got a Ac compressor from the local Junkyard from a 2011 Honda civic. We got it installed and everything and the ac clutch does not engage. I switched the relays and checked the fuses and the pressure switch had 5v 5v and 0v. One thing I noticed today was the 2011 Compressor has 3 wires 1 black 1 red and 1 black in that order. the wiring on the 2007 has 3 red wires. The wiring coming from the car has 3 wires and the bottom wire is supplying 13 volts. I was thinking that the 2011 Compressor is Trying to receive power on the middle wire (red) and the car is sending power to the bottom (black) wire and probably Just grounding it that why The clutch must not be engaging even tho the fans and everything else must work Is this true? Does this mean that I need to replace the Clutch on 2011 Compressor or just get a new 2007 Honda civic Compressor.

EDIT: it ended up being that the compressor was not compatible and the wiring was different so I replaced the Thermal Protection Wire from the old compressor to the new one and it works now.

I have a 2008 ford edge sel with approximately 288k miles on it. I've run into a few issues over the past few weeks. Everything started with a cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the coil pack and spark plug. Tried to drive it and then I had a cylinder 6 misfire. I changed the coil pack and spark plug for that one. I tried to drive it again and then I got a bad fuel injector 6. I replaced the fuel injector. I've been driving the car for four days since then. The car idles fine - no issues. I'm still experiencing hesitation during acceleration. The check engine light has not come back on - yet. I'm not a mechanic by any means. I'm just trying to figure out what I should do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi. Can someone tell by this report if the tire alignment was done correctly - especially the rear, as it's still showing red? I went to a shop to only get tire alignment done, and this is the report they furnished... I'm just a little confused why the rear is still red? Am I wrong to assume everything should be green?

Did this shop do a good job?

https://preview.redd.it/rpbcpm2e5nxc1.jpg?width=2224&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2dfcb1f12fbfb88442be5dc7f90574e0b14f81c

I have a 2000 GMC sierra 1500 5.3L 4wd, recently the fan quit blowing on 4. Well I replaced the resistor and the connector as it was burnt, but four still doesn’t work. I couldn’t find a short in the wires, I plugged in a different switch and it did the same thing also, the pins looked fine in that plug. The fuses are all good, the blower motor was replaced just a year or two ago. Any ideas?