Ok I have looked high and low for this and have not found an answer.

I am having an Osburn Inspire installed soon and am getting electrical set up. My plan is to install an outlet in the back of the fireplace via the ash clean out , which goes to the basement utility room.

My assumption is that the cord could get hot and become damaged, but I’m not totally sure.

What’s the best solution here? High heat conduit? Metal outlet boxes? Please help!

It’s my first winter using a woodstove. I’m renting from friends and have gotten a tutorial from them on how to use the stove. Tonight is the first time I tried to keep the fire going overight. I got the fire hot, closed the damper, it burned down to embers, I opened up the damper to creat draft for the smoke to go back up the chimney, loaded up from the top, closed the lid, and then closed the damper. Two hours later I woke to smoke smell in the house. So I opened the damper and got the fire back up to temp again before closing it. The smoke seems to be coming from the “lid” of the stove. I’m not sure what to do. It feels like closing the damper is the culprit, but I should be able to do that to get the fire to more of a slow burn, right? Wood is a mix of oak, ash, and cherry.

Drolet wood stove we had installed about a month ago. Built the pad myself. Seems to burn a lot of wood (could be operator error). Puts out tremendous tho!

I have a 2022 Vermont Castings Encore with catalytic. When loading up with 5-6 large splits for an overnight burn the catalytic overfires. Stove top temp is only around 4-500 but cat is way over the active range. I can hear air pulling super strong as well even when dialing down air intake. I don’t understand how people “load it to the gills” without overfiring.

I get air down to about 1/3. If I go lower than that everything kind of smolders for 30 seconds and builds up gasses to ignite strongly. So I don’t think it’s an air leak issue because I can basically choke the fire out.

I really don’t feel this is a weak draft issue. If anything too much draft. I can hear the air pulling super strong with cat engaged with that much of a load. My stack meets minimum requirements for VC but on a ranch style house so it’s not super tall.

With 2-3 splits everything is fine. But as soon as I try to load it up everything goes south. I’m using “kiln dried” wood, but burns super clean so I can’t see that being the problem.

Pic of how high my cat probe gets. Also seems really strong so I know it’s getting too hot.

Orange would be 2x4 framing and drywall in front of the existing wall. If I added enough space, and insulation, would this be doable?

One possible deviation, if the exhaust goes up about 2 feet, and banks hard left I can port it out of a wall vs the roof.

It’s not a beast but it’s great supplemental heat for the lower floor of a split ranch with 1 zone heat connected to the upstairs. The downstairs is always 10+ degrees colder. Definitely starts to also warm the upstairs after a while.

My local firewood seller goofed this year. Instead of the sub 20% moisture seasoned oak he usually delivers, I got oak that's punky dry on the outside and 24% moisture in the middle. It burns but not very hot. Temp on the outside of the single wall stovepipe is 300° so I know I'm getting some mild creosote buildup. Definitely nothing to panic about.

A frequent suggestion on this sub is to burn a hot fire to get rid of the creosote. I bought a six pack of compressed sawdust logs from Tractor Supply and they burned nicely. Stovepipe temp was just about 600°. (Pics below)

https://imgur.com/a/Off4bvT

The stove kept that temp for about 90 minutes. Is that long enough to burn off the accumulated creosote or do I need a second round of these sawdust logs to burn it away?

Stove is a Jotul F55 a Carrabassett and I use a scoop of the creosote removal powder on a bed of hot coals weekly.

Chimney is professionally cleaned annually.

So my question is, how long does a hot fire need to burn to clear up a mild creosote accumulation in a two story single walled flue pipe? Thanks!

Wondering if anyone on here has experience cleaning the chimney on a waterford trinity mk2 from the bottom? Not finding much online and would appreciate any info

Planning on repairing my wood stove. Wish I had a picture. Are the tops of inserts typically plate steel or cast iron. Looking to purchase the right welding rods.

Is cast iron more susceptible to pitting from salt air than steel is? If so, is there a treatment/coating that can mitigate it? A salesman at a wood stove store advised against cast iron near the ocean but I wasn't sure it that was truth or sales speak since there was a steel stove there we'd been looking at. Thanks!

Loving the ease of use so far. Still getting used to a stove with a catalytic system.

So rhe doors on my stove wont fully close one door is perfect while the one with the locking handle just wond shut far enough to lock. Is there any good way to go about fixing that without resealing that side. Any help or tips would be appreciated.

Redoing my basement and getting a green mountain 60 wood stove. I’m ripping out the old brick facade fireplace. The wood stove is going near the basement foundation wall. It’s cinderblock, underground. I plan on putting a stone veneer over it. Do I still need the full combustible clearances or can the stove be closer to the wall? The stove pipe itself will be tapping into the clay lined chimney with a new liner in it.

How do I clean the blower/fan on this Regency wood stove? I plugged it in and turned it on and it works fine but I think there’s some mold in there; my chest got tight so it needs a deep clean. Any pointers or directions yall could point me to?

Received a bunch of eucalyptus wood from my brother who had to cut down a tree 3 years ago. But my uncle said it’s not safe to burn because it has a lot of oil and can cause build up on the chimney and cause a fire - any truth to that?

We recently moved to a new home that has a wonderful wood burning stove for heating. We have a Vermont Castings Defiant cast iron wood burning stove but it has cast iron doors vs glass. I'm trying to find the best recommendation for how to use it. All the user manuals I've found online have glass doors and look more modern than mine. I suspect mine is from the 80s, when the house was built.

My husband insists that burning one log at a time is best and to just reheat every morning with whatever coals are left in the bottom and to vacuum out the ash daily at the end of the night.

I feel like his method is inefficient. I had a fireplace growing up that we would use regularly to warm the house and we would always stuff it full of wood and leave a layer of ash to "insulate" the hot coals. However, this is not a fireplace so perhaps he's right.

What is the best method for keeping the stove hot all night long so that the living area is warm-ish in the morning and it doesn't take forever to restart the fire?

Following up on my earlier post today—thank you to everyone who offered encouragement and shared insights on what to watch out for. Grateful to be part of such a thoughtful subreddit community!

Soooooo….

This has been the worst experience. In early July 24’ we bought a Ironstrike Montlake 300 wood burning insert with installation for 7200$. We were replacing a 20 year old insert. I wish I never set foot in the Fire House Stove Shop in Hookset NH. With a sister store in Ipswich Ma. Jeff, the owner and lead salesman lies. He said he could install it in 3 weeks. It took 2 months. He said he was at every instal and he never came once. He said his trucks were mobile machine shops. His people came unprepared and without even the basic tools, work gloves or a flashlight. The second crew actually barrow tools from me. They didn’t even level the insert and left it an inch out from the wall. Jeff gave excuses of he had to go to the hospital, his high blood pressure, Covid manufacturing delays and blurred photos. The stove makes banging noises and has a flaw in the cast iron top. He won’t even come look at it. His people just keep telling me that my claim has been denied because the photos are blurry. I’ve sent them by phone and computer. They are not blurry. Once he has your money there is ZERO support or communication. Once in a fit of anger he hung up on me. This is just the worst. Save yourself a hassle and go elsewhere. I had a Napoleon 1401 and I used it regularly to heat my home. It was the primary heating of our home for over 18 years. This new stove has a huge casting mark in the front of the stove, one of the fans stoped working on the 4 th break on fire, sometimes the other blower stops working. And to top it off I can’t shut the air flow down to get a secondary burn. I contacted Ironstrike and found out the stove was manufactured in 2022 and has been in a warehouse in Hudson Ny for over 2 years. I also found out that the Fire House Stove Shop never even submitted it in as sold or under warranty. You have been warned

We're up at nearly 8000 feet and it's DRY. Our home had this Blaze King Sirocco 20.2 when we bought it and no kettle included. We love the stove for the most part (sometimes have issues with smoldering). Because of the fan and the thermometer on the top, the space seems limited for a kettle. Is anyone running a kettle for moisture with one of these? What do you use?

Hi friends. Long time listener, first time caller.

This rope baffle for the flue door just started drooping on my vermont castings.

Anyone made this repair before? Any suggestions?

Purchased a home with a consolidated Dutch west sequoia. Doing my first burn as we speak. What are some tips/tricks you wish you knew when you first started using a wood stove? This is all new to me. From what I can tell, a clean stove and bone dry wood are crucial.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/grand-teton-collection-targhee-wood-stove