I'm sure this topic has been talked to death and if it has just link teh other posts that do but i'm wondering if someone could suggest to me a Flash that i should get for the Nishika N8000. I'm kinda looking for something that isn't massive given the camera is already a big boy. I read a bunch of different stuff about compatible flashes but have gotten a little lost as to what would be ideal. Any reccomendations as to what you are using would be great :)

I don't know if anyone else experiences this, but I shoot wigglegrams with a Nimslo 3D, and due to either 1) the lenses or 2) the scans (from my lab), there's sometimes quite a big disparity in color and distortion between the four images.

For distortion it's usually no big problem; sometimes I just have to resize the frames by +/- 1 or 2% horizontally and align them again. When it's bad, I might have to rotate them slightly too. Leaving the frames uncorrected usually makes some of the non-focal point objects (where the four frames aren't aligned) move more herky-jerky across the frame instead of in a straight line with lateral motion.

For color disparities, I have more trouble making the frames match up. I try to do some color matching of selective areas in Photoshop, but it doesn't always work out.

Correcting these things in Photoshop is just part of my process, but I was wondering if anybody had any other tricks. Thanks!

Could someone be so kind to refer me to the easiest tutorial on how to make wiggle grams? I have a nimslo and have shot some rolls. I got a free tutorial on photoshop, but had such a difficult time falling along and then gave up.

Hi, I just got my Olympus T20 and I'm waiting to get my Nimslo 3D any day now.

I'm just wondering how they work together, I tried getting a proper exposure with the T20 and a digital camera to no avail. (I have now also read that due to voltage issues I shouldn't be mixing a flash like that with a digital camera.)

Does the Nimslo 3D and the Olympus T20 work fully automatic together? Are any setting needed on the flash or the camera for this to work?

Is there a way to create this effect with a single lens digital camera?

I took a photo with my nimslo 3d without noticing that I had no batteries in and therefore the film didn‘t get exposed. But now if I want to take another picture I would first have to wind the film. Is it possible to somehow „retake“ this picture without continuing the film?

Hello!

I've ordered a Nishika N8000 off ebay and am still waiting for it to arrive. I'm super excited but I'm already wondering, is there any production cameras with more than 4 lenses?

I wasn't able to find anything except this weird little guy: Fujifilm Rensha Cardia Byu-N 1. It takes images sequentially though, which I don't think would work for wigglegrams (but maybe it could be modified?). And I also found some limited information about somebody named David Burdler who custom made 12 and 24 versions of the Nimslo, but not much about the process of how the camera was created.

I expect there's some complicated math involved to get this to work properly, wondering if there's anybody who has accomplished this already. Or if anybody has some idea of the camera physics I would need to be thinking about if I were to try and make something myself.

Presumably the lenses would have to be arranged with some curvature, but then so would the film plane? Unless you were correcting the distortion in post. Or maybe I'm overthinking it.

TLDR; Where do I find a 3d camera with more than 4 lenses? Or how do I make one?