thoughts ?

Hello! I’m just starting out printmaking as i prepare for AP 2D art next year, I really want to go full in on linocut and had the idea of overlaying a print on top of a painted backround—will that work? I’m not sure if the ink would adhere or if it would just bead up

I created this reductive wood cut print as a commission piece for a good friend of mine who lives in Scotland and is obsessed with Castles, this particular castle is situated in South Ayrshire in the south west of Scotland. The area is rich in history and wonderful scenery, I have visited this castle myself many times.

Just having some fun making a gross fake product to practice lettering in reverse.

The focus of this print is supposed to be the texture of the cacti. I can't decide if I should keep the background black or carve it all out to be white. A white background was the original plan so there are a couple small weird spots on the outline. But I'm liking the black on this test print. Anyone have any thoughts?

I’ve had this idea for too long and finally made it happen.

Has anyone else run into this? Midway through a run of 60 my blocks (speedball pink speedy blocks) are getting weird and peel-y. I’m working indoors, it’s 67 degrees in here, using a small Woodzilla press and a yellow owl workshop ink pad. Any ideas? I’ve used all these tools/materials before without issue; I ran into the same issue using caligo Safewash a few weeks ago and figured it was because I was working outdoors in direct sun.

Hey there :D
I'm pretty new to Lino, and really want to try it out. I'm on a budget sadly and as I'm sure you guys know art materials are expensive ; - ;. I was wondering if I could use some of my left over computer document printer ink instead of having to buy actual Lino printmaking ink. I don't plan to transfer the print onto a shirt or anything of the such, just to a piece of paper.

Thxxx for reading <3

This seems like a surprisingly hard thing to find. I have been using Speedball's with good results, but I would like to see if there is a better quality product out there. I am aware of Cranfield's safewash, but reviews seem to suggest the dry times are quite long. I have been using a heat gun or blow drier on my prints between layers and I usually only have to wait around 15 minutes. Maybe I need more space or patience, but I enjoy humming along and making several prints quickly. All the great brands seem to be oil based - I am sure for good reason. I came across a brand called Schmincke, but I am unsure about their CMYK offering. Maybe this is semantics, and I am a newbie, but their cyan and magenta do not have the word "process" in front of them. Does this matter? Also their yellow is called "permanent yellow".

I appreciate any advice, thoughts, or suggestions.

I’m a beginner screen printer and I find it super hard to have good repairs. I’m only 10 weeks into screen printing. I love it so far. The inspiration came with the future and now past solar eclipse on the 8th of April. The washed out wave is normal. I photoshoped it that way. And many of those prints didn’t look as good as this one. I want to be better at screen printing.

Hi! I’m drawing up some designs intended to be printed on tote bags/shirts/bandanas. Which carving material would be best for printing on fabric, lino or speedy carve?

Thanks!

Hello! I’m just starting printmaking and I’ve been doing trying to do some linocut block prints!

I’ve had decent luck with paper but when it comes to cloth, the ink never seems to transfer that well. (See image)

Clearly I’m doing something wrong, but I’m not sure what! Any and all advice appreciated!

Relevant details: -I am using ink made for fabric (speed all). -I’ve tried spreading the ink on glass, and, in a fit of desperation, directly onto the block. Neither has worked. -the block that causes the most trouble is backed (made the print shown), however I’ve had similar issues with simpler, non-backed linoleum cuts)

I’m getting my first nice brayer after using a cheap one for ten years. I’m reading the cleaning instructions and it says don’t get the metal parts wet and to use a wet cloth to rinse to avoid rusting a metal part. That doesn’t make sense to me. Do they mean just keep wiping it until the ink is gone? It seems you wouldn’t be able to get it very clean or well rinsed that way. Am I misunderstanding?