I recently bought a pair of magura MT7s used but from a trustworthy source. They worked ok for a bit, more powerful than the previous brakes but the bleed felt super squishy compared to my shimano and tektro brakes on other bikes. I decided to do a bleed and it felt a bit better at the lever but nothing significant but all the sudden the power just wasn't there and I would have to pull the lever to the bar just to lock the back wheel. Im assuming there is contamination but I am a college student with no money to buy new rotors or pads. I cant light them on fire or anything what can I do to revive these brakes? Is there any bleed tips? I would really like to have these working ASAP for a price I can afford.

reposting since I messed up the formatting. I am wondering which bike I should choose for mostly long blue-rated Cross-Country rides in Colorado. I am an intermediate rider. Budget was originally $2,000. Are these bikes a good deal? What would you choose?

Worried about the NX drivetrain on the Neuron.

Worried about the slacker HT angle and front fork on the element a50. Will the HT make climbing up rock gardens much harder?

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https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=rockymountain-element-a50-shimano-2024%2Ccanyon-neuron-6-2024%2Cpolygon-siskiu-t8-2024

Buddy is offering to sell me a Rockshox Sektor 29er fork take off from his bike to put on my 2019 27.5+ Specialized Fuse. I’m still learning about swapping parts, so what should I watch out for? It looks like the 27.5+ wheel fits ok.

I recently received a warranty replacement from fox and they sent me a 2024 model X2 shock.

I was just wondering if any of you have had any issues with this new shock like the previous years had and would you recommend I use it or sell it and buy something different?

Regardless of price, what are the best enduro bikes on the market right now? What's your dream Enduro Rig looking like?

Ive been wanting to start riding trails more often and faster but I currently own a carrera vengeance and I want to upgrade my mtb bike because the vengeance feels bulky and heavy for jumps, anyone know a good quality, hardtail or possibly full suspension trail bike in medium from about £400-£550 or even cheaper.

I finally got a Marlin (all I could afford) and since there wasn't enough room in my car without taking it apart I rode it home. I live like 3 miles from the store. I froze on the way back. I forgot my hat and didn't have winter gloves on and it was like 25 that night

Needless to say I won't ever do that again. Would a regular hat fit under a helmet? Can you use a full face helmet for cold weather riding? And are there any really good winter gloves that are lightweight?

Thanks

So, got my first mountain bike after doing plenty of research and making sure I would actually want to do the sport and on my first ride, I broke my clavicle….

Little back story, I have ridden motorbikes since before I can remember and raced motocross for a while as well. After stopping motocross I’ve felt a yearning to do something similar but not as expensive so I started looking into MTB. I’m not a pro cyclist but obviously I’ve ridden bicycles since I was a kid and I was able to transfer my dirt bike skills into cycling as well and I have some really good bike control and knowledge of lines and all that jazz.

I decided to take it easy on my first ride by doing a little beginner trail near my home. Faye a few laps I decided I was confident in my skills and decided to do the same beginner track at a much higher speed… bad idea…

Apparently though some skills are interchangeable, bicycles don’t handle the exact same as a motocross bike… who would have known (😂😂😂). So I skidded the bike a bit and decided to hug a tree. So now I’m sitting in ED with a broken clavicle and a massive smile on my face.

Can’t wait to get back out there

TLDR: I took a shot at "cheaply" building a still very capable hardtail as a pumptrack/loaner/cruising with the kid in-town/just because bike. Could have been more cost-efficient but came out extremely fun.

Thinking about how I'll be soon be doing more playground runs, mellow neighborhood open space cruises, pumptrack sessions and beginner trails with my toddler as he's is getting better with his bike handling, I wanted a less intense bike than my Druid that wouldn't feel so overkill or out of place for those activities. Steel hardtails have been super interesting to me, so I wanted to see what the options were. There were some used bikes available locally, but nothing that was really compelling or felt worthwhile. So with as much fun as I have with frame builds and tinkering, I wanted to see what I could do with a used frame and find as good of deals as I could on quality parts that I wanted, or use stuff from my parts bin to get and end result of a bike I would be stoked to have without totally going overboard.

• Frame - Used Chromag Wideangle size L. This was essentially unridden, got it for a great deal locally. Smaller than my usual XL but not unrideable. Full 27.5" wheels meant it would do better on pumptracks and I could find components cheaper since 27.5 stuff is constantly on sale. Also had good compatibility with existing parts I had
• Fork - Cane Creek Helm MKII 150mm. This was taken off of my Druid since I found an unridden Fox fork locally for a steal, and I figured let's put the new shiny bit on my Druid and this goes on the hardtail. Still a great fork as the first ride proved and it felt even more pronounced on a hardtail. So grippy and well damped. Plus with the easy travel adjust I can drop it down to 140mm. Since it's a 29" fork I expected it to be too long and need to go to something like 130mm, but it actually was great and kept the originally designed head angle somehow.
• Wheels - DT Swiss XM481/Oneup front, EX471/ I9 1/1 rear. Man it is really hard to find the exact single hub you need when you want to not go for crazy high end stuff. I had the I9, and the Oneup was really the only single front 28h hub I could find that either wasn't super low end or high end. The rims I found on double discount on Jenson and will hold up to anything.
• Brakes - Hayes Dominion A2. 50% off is pretty sweet and they feel almost as strong as my A4s.
• Drivetrain - Shimano Deore but with an XT cassette. Price on Lordgun was almost as cheap as Deore in the US so I couldn't pass it up for the weight savings. Cranks are Raceface since they fit with an XT bb, and were on sale so it all worked nicely.
• Cockpit - I kind of blew it here since I realized after I bought this stuff that I had a 35mm bar and stem that would work, but I did really want to try a 31.8mm bar and wanted a higher rise, so I convinced myself it was ok.

What would I do differently? I could have waited until November for black friday deals, but I got some nice extra sale deals from Jenson, and ordering a lot from Lordgun really saved some cash, so in the end it probably would not be that different. I would not hesitate to order from there again if they have what I need. I could have been more frugal with component choices if I really wanted to dig in and min/max, but I'm happy with what I got for the cost of the project.

https://preview.redd.it/1xgdslf0xp4e1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f487b9d908e36c39f1774791e655fc0cdb4efba3

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https://preview.redd.it/t7k8mkf0xp4e1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7dca647a01cf8f1edd73a0add4c1da09e69c1c77

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Seems like a total scam site, but they turned up while searching for a component that is out of stock everywhere else. If you’ve ordered from them I’d like to hear your experience- their prices are too good to be true. Are they counterfeits? Did you even get it in the mail?

New to the biking scene. I have just purchased a second hand Specialized StumpJumper 2011 FSR Expert 29 for a great price. I wanted to get an older bike just because I enjoy tinkering with things! I fancied the challenge of learning how to build/maintain bikes.

I am wanting to upgrade the front forks on this bike. the original forks are pretty beat up. The seals look shot and they've got quite a spongey feel. The outside body of the fork is pretty scratched and I can't be bothered trying to respray and tart them up. Can anyone point me in the right direction on looking for a suitable set of forks? Ideally with the exact same specs.

Here's a link to the bike specs; https://www.specialized.com/us/en/stumpjumper-fsr-expert-29er/p/23342?color=35968-23342

Thanks!

Is there any strength involved and what are some good ways to practice and build up to a full jump

Looking for a ridid fork for a build I'm putting together

Looking for an A to C measurement of ~500mm, an aluminum tapered steerer, and 15x110 thru axle compatibility.
I love the look of the MRP Rock Solid but i can only find it in 9mm QR or 15x100 Any suggestions??

Picked this old timer up for cheap so I could go riding with my 7yo who has recently taken to trail, park and pump track riding. I have some things coming like a rebuild kit for the rear suspension, dropper post, saddle and some small stuff.

My question is, where can I find a rebuild kit for the forks (nixon super 145), what is the most budget friendly way to do a 1x10 or 12 trans and what other budget upgrades would be recommended?

Bike parks, xc rides with the kiddo is the main goal. I am an old school downhiller that has been out of the sport for 20 years. 5’11” @ 230lb

Thank you.

My friend group is pushing 40 and just getting into enduro/downhill MTB. We are fully aware of the risks and trying to progress within our capabilities to avoid serious injuries. We all did other extreme sports as kids and are good at those (skiing, snowboarding, climbing, gymnastics, etc)

But I wanted to get some info from the community on if our exceptions are realistic at all..... The consequences just seem to be so high and seems like if you didnt learn how to clear 15ft gaps as a kid, then its hopeless. Some of us did XC biking and some of us just learned to ride a bike when we got into MTB.

So are there any adults out there who learned in their 30s and 40s successfully? Our goals are really to be able to do flowy jump trails with 15-20 ft gaps. Maybe do a whip. It just looks like so much fun. #1 goal is to not get wrecked and helicoptered out though. Everyone we know who can do this stuff learned in middle school and high school.

can someone tell me why it doesnt show up?

I am 183 cm so S4 and S5 fits me. Currently riding Stumpjumper ST 2019 L size and it feels small, but not too small. I have done research and it all points to me being best off with S4 however I found a good deal on S5 Stumpjumper from 2022 and wonder if it would work, my legs are somewhat longer and I have to set my seat kind of high on a current bike so that might be a factor. What do you think?

This is not a "should I get" post but rather a "how did you deal with it" post.

The electronic shifting (SRAM AXS) actually came with my new bike (Kenevo SL2). And I just can't get it in my head! I keep hitting the wrong button to upshift or downshift. Plus there is no satisfying "click" on the hand control or an audible gear change sound most of the time. So I'm always thinking about the shifting and not so much about the riding, which is obviously affecting my riding in not such a good way.

How have you dealt with you transition to e-shifting? And what control pod do you use? And what orientation did you put the buttons? Are you still having to think about it constantly?

After my MTB got stolen way back when I was a teenager, I finally got a MTB again to enter some self-supported ultra distance races, like the Atlas Mountain Race. Having done some road based races like that, I know that taking care of your hands is critical. I went for a quick spin with the new ride yesterday and I could already tell that my hands are not going to like the grips that came with the bike in the long run. What are some grips you would recommend for riding long distances to keep your hands happy and functional?

My older bike was a norco storm 2 and got stolen. I ride in forests and medium jumps. I’m very average in jumps and I ride in kinda a group so I just need a decent bike that’s not too expensive but not too cheap. I’m looking for air forks 100-130mm if possible but NOT COIL no matter what. 1x drivetrain preferably

I'm 15 I used to get into a lot of trouble until I met a group of biker friends they all have really good bikes which means these 20 ft jumps that im doing tend to damage my bike more as its cheaper I don't do nothing outside of school apart from ride my bike how can I get my parents to buy me a decent full sus every time the bike gets a issue they'll let me ride it until I break it because of that issue then blame it on me is this my fault

looking for something with mounting points like Topeak TetraRack M2 Rear Mountainbike Rack - black | BIKE24

but with a snap hook to lock my stuff in place, like old lady bike racks have

i want both a rear and a front rack and i would like to get away under $60 but i can go to $90

or do you think i should go the c clamp and regular rack route? i have no idea how easy or hard that would be, or expensive? if given to a mech

Hoping to do a downhill camp/clinic. Whistler looks to have a great summer gravity camp but it is a little far. Anybody know of anything similar, even if less days, out west? UT, CO or somewhere close to that.

Whistler camp info for reference: https://waitingroom.snow.com/?c=vailresorts&e=vailresortsecomm1&ver=v3-aspnet-3.6.2&cver=138&man=Sapphire%20-%20All%20Non%20Reservation%20Pages%20and%20APIs%20-%20PROD&t=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.whistlerblackcomb.com%2Fexplore-the-resort%2Factivities-and-events%2Fwhistler-mountain-bike-park%2Fbike-school%2Fcamps-and-seasonal-programs%2Fsummer-gravity-camp.aspx%3Ftc_1%3D2