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/r/Mountaineering

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53

Piolets d'or 2024 - Posthumous award for Kazuya Hiraide and Kento Nakajima. Teams to ascent Jannu north face and Flat Top north face also awarded.

Complete list of winners:

  1. Kazuya Hiraide and Kento Nakajima for their first ascent of Secret Line on the north face of Tirich Mir (7708m), Hindu Kush, Pakistan in July 2023.

This is the third Piolet d'Or for Hiraide, and the third for Nakajima. Unfortunately, both the climbers lost their lives while attempting the West Face of K2 in July this year.

  1. First ascent of Round Trip Ticket on the North Face of Jannu (7710m), Kanchenjunga Himal, Nepal, by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rosseau in October 2023

  2. First ascent of Tomorrow Is Another Day on the North Face of Flat Top (6100m), Kishtwar Himalaya, India, by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, and Nathan Monard in October 2023.

2024 Special Mention for Female Mountaineering - Nives Meroi, part of the team that opened a new route "Diamonds on the Soles of the Shoes" on the west face of Kabru South (7,318m) in the Kangchenjunga Himal

3 Comments
2024/11/01
12:53 UTC

0

Pulmonary edema

Hello,

A friend of mine is currently trekking Zion NP. She wanted to do Angels landing but didn’t get a pass so she hiked a few other tracks here.

She messaged asking about pulmonary edema, if I ever had from my mountaineering trips of knew anyone that has had it. I never thought about as I only assumed I’d need to climb or decent something really fast or something like that. I should probably have a read about it.

Anyway. Would hiking around Zion Have enough altitude for a regular person to get such issue?

Thanks all

8 Comments
2024/11/01
09:23 UTC

0

Thank you!

I wouldn't know how to address all the people that replied on this post I made https://www.reddit.com/r/Mountaineering/s/2H0KVrxDGD asking about new books to read similar to Into Thin Air. Therefore, hoping that some of you will read this as well, thank you! And regarding the Krakauer/Boukreev controversy, it seems that I did infact miss something. Thank you to all of those who, by any mean, encouraged me to read also The Climb by Boukreev.

8 Comments
2024/11/01
09:09 UTC

0

Uphill running or backpacking with load

Hey all,

I, a flatlander and ocassional mountaineer, currently have the opportunity to spend some time in a hilly area. Many of the streets here have a gradient and there are many flights of large stairs. Before an expedition, i climb lots of stairs at home. I also run regularly but on flat-ish trails and beach sand.

Given the geography of my current location, what is more advantageous and less injury-prone:

  • Jogging uphill on graded roads and stairs
  • Walking uphill with a loaded pack
10 Comments
2024/11/01
08:26 UTC

48

Guess the mountain!

15 Comments
2024/11/01
06:39 UTC

1

RMI expedition skills course

Hey all, just wondering if anyone has done these and what they think. There’s the 6 day camp Muir, the 6 day Emmons glacier, 6 day kautz glacier and 6 day paradise glacier courses. I’m trying to pick one to do. My goal is Denali and eventually make it to an 8000m. I do a bunch of winter camping in the whites in NH and have done several winter Washington’s. And a few smaller mountaineering courses.

I suck at explaining things. Haha. But basically I’m trying to get the best “bang for your buck” so to speak. I don’t want too easy or one that teaches just the very basics as i already have taken a few courses. I was leaning more towards kautz or Emmons. Mainly because the Muir is sheltered and I like the idea of setting up camp and all that. But in the other hand having the shelter can create more hands on time for other things.

1 Comment
2024/11/01
01:18 UTC

0

Lightweight shoe for mountaineering and easy/short glacier tours

Hello everyone,

can anyone recommend a lightweight shoe for fast mountaineering or easy and short glacier passages? It has to be able to use semi-automatic crampons, but I'm relatively open to the rest. For example, I was thinking of the Scarpa Ribelle S HD red/black, can anyone say anything about this shoe?

Thanks in advance
Molo

1 Comment
2024/10/31
19:47 UTC

2

Short inseam bibs? Any idea?

3 Comments
2024/10/31
22:00 UTC

0

Any personal experience on PHD Downsuits?

Hey guys! What are your personal experience about PHD downsuits?I mean especially durability wise, and overall the brand and the brand’s communication. Is it worth the higher price compared to Rab, North Face, Mountain Hardware, Kailas?

4 Comments
2024/10/31
21:53 UTC

1

Cycling to the Alps with gear + boots

Good evening Reddit folk,

So, I am starting to plan my summer vacation for 2025, and I want to combine two of my favorite sports: climbing and cycling. I have some experience in both separately but have not done them together yet. I am from the Netherlands and was feeling a challenge for this summer to Cycle to the Alps (France or Switzerland) and then do some alpine climbing and then continue my journey by bike towards Austria and meet up with a friend over there.

I was wondering if anyone has done something like this before and could maybe help me out.
Thanks in advance!

3 Comments
2024/10/31
20:16 UTC

0

Book recommendations

I’ve read ghost of k2 shining mountain 14 peaks and some other books but just want some good recommendations if possible

4 Comments
2024/10/31
19:15 UTC

24

What mountaineering gear still has room for innovation?

Hey everyone! I’m curious to hear your thoughts on which products in mountaineering (like jackets, harnesses, gloves, or anything else) still have room for innovation or improvement. Are there features you think could make gear more efficient, comfortable, or safer?

I've been looking into Arc'teryx and Salomon and am trying to figure out which aspects of mountaineering equipment/apparel are in need of innovation.

109 Comments
2024/10/31
18:45 UTC

4

A morning filled with ambition

it was only a few days ago when I could look out the window and claim that this is the best view anyone could possibly experience. I completed my third trek in Nepal, and that is a downright privilege.

looking at those 8,000m peaks, it’s inspiring at the very least. I believe that admiring the Himalayan range ‘from a distance’ is bound to go one of two ways, either you curate a life goal OR you want to ‘close that distance’. the sheer grandeur of these mountains make you want to accomplish.

personally, I have come to accept my inclination towards ‘closing that distance’. over the past 5 years, I have had the opportunity to trek in 10 moderate to difficult trails, and achieve a max altitude of 5,650m. yet I believe, my toughest adventures are far ahead of me.

this is a realisation towards my long standing dream: paying a tribute to at least one 8,000m peak in my lifetime. this means a commitment to fitness, endurance and discipline for the next 8 years at the minimum. this means a big win followed by smaller wins.

thanks to that morning in Nepal filled with ambition, I’m now left with a goal to chase.

0 Comments
2024/10/31
08:53 UTC

0

Aconcagua Questions

Hello, I am a 22M looking to climb Aconcagua this January or February. It's kind of last minute since I am graduating in December and looking to travel before starting work. I was wondering how challenging it really is. I have seen the 30% summit rate and as a semi-broke college student putting thousands of dollar into a trip to not reach the summit is a fear of mine. I have casually hiked at a few national parks, and last year I did the Everest Base Camp hike (along with Cho La and Renjo Passes and Gokyo Ri). EBC was an amazing experience but I was looking for something more challenging and I had some questions before I started booking things. I know the hike is extremely hard and with school being busy, I haven't had time to train. I would be doing it with only a few weeks or a month to prepare. I don't run often but I can put a 20 mile ride down when I need to. Also a ran cross country and track in high school and have a decent endurance base.

What is the general gap between EBC and Aconcagua? I know this is vague is personal to everyone but I'm gonna ask anyways.

What percentage of summit failures are due to weather conditions rather than personal physical conditions? I want to be sure that if I don't make it its because of my lack of training not bad luck with the storms.

How much harder is carrying a pack? On EBC I had a daypack but my guide hired a porter to take most of my stuff.

Aconcagua has been on my bucket list and I don't really see a time in the future when I will have 4 weeks to spend traveling like this, especially around December and January. Any advice, recommendations, or info would be amazing! I really want to try this but I think I might be rushing it.

9 Comments
2024/10/31
00:48 UTC

1

Half rope for top roping in glaciar ice climb

Hi! I have a question about half ropes, if I used 1 half rope 7,5mm for ice climbing in top rope mode it will be safe? Considering that there isn’t any big falls or risk of repetitive falls? Thank you!

1 Comment
2024/10/30
23:33 UTC

1

Returning after near-deadly trauma

Hi everyone.

A few months ago I sustained serious injuries to my ankle in a climbing accident. Fractures, dislocation, ligament damage, soft tissue damage, vascular damage. Spent time hospitalized. I've had a couple of surgeries. I'm making good progress now in recovering but it's a long road, to put it mildly. I'm still at the "re learn to walk" phase, and all the mobility I used to have is of course gone.

Before this accident, I was aiming to climb Denali in 3 years, and regularly linked together multiple 14ers and did heavy backpacks and all that stuff. I do believe I'll recover to the point of hiking again, even a day hike 14er with a trail. But has anyone ever had a traumatic injury to a lower extremity joint that requires surgery and NWB for a long time, and recovered enough to do back to back days of mountaineering again? Is it possible to rehab enough to carry a loaded pack, on unstable ground, for most of a day, get not-enough-sleep, and then climb at altitude next day without a lot of pain and swelling? That feels far fetched. This feels "career-ending". It was very hard to do even when I was totally healthy and I spent most free time training. My physio has pointed out that athletes return to elite athletics all the time - so, I realize it is possible. But I feel like almost any other activity is easier than mountaineering. So, does anyone have first hand experience going through major trauma, and actually returning to this sport? I no longer really think I can do Denali (ever), that's just too much time with too intense of a stress on my ankle, but I'd like to finish the 14ers, and re-do Mount Rainier. I only have 6 left in CO. But some do require a backpack, including the one that almost killed me. Advice?

1 Comment
2024/10/30
23:20 UTC

2

Are all Sherpa Himalayan mountain guides required to have IFMGA certification?

18 Comments
2024/10/31
14:44 UTC

0

Scarpa Ribelle Tech 3 vs la sportiva aequilibrium

Hi, Lets say i can buy them both for the same price. i plan to use them for summer in alps, Mont blanc eventually Matterhorn. Maybe dolomites in spring. For easy hikes i will use some other boots. Maybe a small peak in winter.

Thank you for responding if you do.

9 Comments
2024/10/31
11:07 UTC

0

Apple Watch Tracking Issues for Multi-Pitch Climbing//Alpine Climbing - Any App Suggestions?

Hi all, I recently got an Apple Watch S10 to track runs, basic activities, and sleep. I chose the standard model since I wanted a low-profile watch I could also wear to bed. Currently, I’m in Chamonix and just completed a 300m multi-pitch climb, along with a 200m Ice Couloire, which I tracked using the Hiking mode.

The problem is that when I’m on the belay, the watch picks up tiny movements as actual “steps,” which makes the track way longer—almost double in Km compared to my girlfriend’s Suunto. Otherwise, battery life has been solid, even in cold weather.

Does anyone know of a third-party app that tracks mountaineering, alpinism, or climbing better than the built-in Hiking mode? Ideally, it would also sync with Strava. Thanks in advance!

6 Comments
2024/10/31
09:47 UTC

13

If you had to choose one tent to survive the extremes of the world, what would it be?

I’m talking the brutal storms of 8000m peaks, the winds of Patagonia, the sweeping snow of Antarctica, etc.

Something that can also handle moisture and not just freezing temperatures and snow.

Nothing that weighs over 13lbs.

39 Comments
2024/10/30
18:50 UTC

214

Into Thin Air: a masterpiece

Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer is, in my opinion, one of the greatest books within the trip report literature. What do you think about it? Do you have some more suggestions of book similar to this one?

132 Comments
2024/10/30
18:36 UTC

1

Orizaba conditions

Anybody been on Pico de Orizaba recently and want to share a conditions report? Or know of a good resource to get such info? Thinking of planning a ski trip down there sometime in November while waiting (im)patiently for snow to start falling further north.

Feel free to DM me!

0 Comments
2024/10/30
16:01 UTC

1

6,994m and rarely climbed: who and where am I?

Hint: it’s neighbor is well known

0 Comments
2024/10/30
15:56 UTC

1

What (European) city to move to

My work contract will terminate at the end of December, and I'm planning to take around 3 sabbatical months to climb/ski/mountaineering.

I'm looking for an European city with a decent climbing gym and community, and nearby climbing, ski touring, and alpinism options. I will have a car, so moving is not a problem.

Ideally not a super expensive city (rent < 1k/month), with a good vibe and an airport closeby (<100km). What would you suggest?

1 Comment
2024/10/30
13:38 UTC

1

Acclimating to altitude

My fiance and I are taking a tour/trek into a high altitude area this December. Prior to the tour we are going to stay at 2400 meters for 2 days, then immediately be driven up to 4000 meters where are your will begin and we will spend 3 days and nights at altitudes ranging from 4000 meters to 5000 meters.

We are planning on taking diamox starting the 2 day at 2400 meters, but wanted to know if anyone has any tips, warnings, or advice on dealing with and acclimating to the altitude, especially with the rapid ascent. We also both only have mild experience at altitude >4000 meters which we didn't have issues, but didn't sleep there and were only at that for a few hours.

Any thoughts or advice is welcome!!

4 Comments
2024/10/30
03:33 UTC

1

Mt Shasta Climb (Looking for partners)

Planning to go up Shasta this weekend, don't know what route yet but will access based on this weeks snow fall. I'm wondering if anyone is plans to go up this weekend. Regardless of if you want to join me if you are going please let me know so I have a little more confidence. Thanks!

1 Comment
2024/10/30
01:18 UTC

1

Mount Shasta Avalanche Gulch 11/9? - a

Hi all,

Very new to the sub, only found you guys when I searched up "Shasta Avalanche Gulch Reddit" and see r/mountaineering instead of r/hiking. I'm planning a trip to Shasta with some buddies for the weekend of 11/9 and was looking for a very challenging (but somewhat safe) hike that wouldn't require mountaineering gear. I myself am a very experienced Hiker and have completed Mt Diablo's 15mi trail. Would Avalanche Gulch be too dangerous to attempt without gear? Alternative trails in the area would be much appreciated; we are just trying to go far and high.

Thanks in advance :)

1 Comment
2024/10/30
01:11 UTC

0

Need Form Responses in Relation to Rope Use

For our high school Capstone Project, we are required to engineer a device that could help solve an issue that many people encounter (Me and my Team are in a STEM Academy, hence the Capstone Project needing to be related to engineering). Our team have decided to make a device that could help to more efficiently and cost effective solution to clean rope as research has shown that dirty rope can be weakened by up to 30%, we would really appreciate it if people could fill our form as we need survey response to get an idea about how impactful our product could potentially be that would be greatly appreciated.

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdd1sGDmNUuz4WSae17u4uFL6ShPLzMv8A1jv92B95qJeRCgQ/viewform?usp=sharing

0 Comments
2024/10/29
18:51 UTC

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