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/r/Mountaineering

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0

How should I prepare for Whitney in late June?

Hey r/Mountaineering! I’ve never climbed/hiked a 14er before. I’ve done lots of difficult hikes, I have a healthy base of technical trad rock climbing, overall I’d say I’m very familiar with being uncomfortable and have good cardio.

I wasn’t planning to climb any 14ers this year but have always been interested, and when my friend got Whitney permits, I couldn’t pass up on the opportunity!

The group is doing a series of 14ers in a traverse along the Whitney area, which includes Russell, Williamson, Whitney, And Tyndall. The rest of the group has lots of mountaineering experience compared to myself, and I’m fine with being the noob in the group but don’t want to hinder any of the ascents. I’m planning to join the group for Mt Russell and then Whitney the following day.

I have two areas of concern that I’d love your input on: training/acclimatization, and gear..

For training, all I have been doing so far is leg workouts and cardio, including some trail runs. The groups plan is to spend one day hiking into the upper Boy Scout/iceberg lake area from Whitney Portal, and allowing ourselves to acclimatize overnight. What other training should I do?

For critical gear, I am bringing that I already own, I have a sleeping pad, a 15 degree sleeping bag, puffy, jackets, trail, running shoes, and boots, walking poles, jet stove, climbing helmet, and rock climbing pants. I’m planning to buy or rent an ice, ax, crampon/micro, spikes, and a hard shell jacket to layer on top of one of my puffers. Any gear I am missing?

1 Comment
2024/05/03
20:25 UTC

2

Which Cramppns fit well to LS -Trangos?

Hey Guys ,

Which Crampons fit well to La Sportiva -Trango Gtx(semi-automatic!).I tried the Petzl Irvis Hybrid but it seems that they doesn’t fit well to them.

Prefered for technical alpine climbs and snow/ice/glacier travel.

4 Comments
2024/05/03
19:02 UTC

5

How does one organize or find an expedition up a 7-8000m peak that doesn’t involve hiring Sherpas for labor?

In the US, you have to lug all your equipment to base camp in Denali or Mt. Logan and have no porters or help, but is there anyway one can schedule and attain a permit to climb any of the Himalayan or Karakoram peaks without relying on Sherpa labor for assistance?

20 Comments
2024/05/03
18:45 UTC

2

Will this jacket be warm enough for Lobuche in November?

14 Comments
2024/05/03
15:32 UTC

0

Heliotrope Ridge

Hey guys! Doing Colfax tomorrow, wondering where the snow line is, I’d like to do as much of the approach as I can in trail runners.

1 Comment
2024/05/03
03:47 UTC

0

Multi-day expedition for beginners in May?

I'm hoping to find a guide or group to do a multi-day mountaineering trip in either north or south America in mid to late May.

Any suggestions on which areas I should look at and where I could find groups?

1 Comment
2024/05/03
00:39 UTC

12

Analog Film Cameras for High Altitude Alpinism?

Background: Starting my journey into more serious mountaineering. I’m a very experienced wildlife cam op/photographer that primarily shoots on film, specifically medium format when I can. Up to this point I've specialized in jungle & beach terrain, so I've never considered taking my cameras up into the mountains where unnecessary weight can be detrimental. So far I’ve only climbed with a GoPro to keep my weight light, but I'm beginning to gain more confidence in my ability and would like to start incorporating mountaineering into my photography work.

This is where you guys come in!

I'm on the hunt for a solid 35mm analog camera that won't crap out at high altitude (~5000m). Preferably something that can operate fully mechanically so I'm not depending on cold batteries to fire the shutter. I would prefer an SLR or Rangefinder that I can mount to a Peak Design capture clip, but I'm really open to anything.

I also plan to carry a smaller, compact digital point & shoot (probably some version of the Sony RX-100) for when conditions are dicey, but I’m overall looking to prioritize film photography.

Any famous alpine camera/lens combos from before the shift to digital? Hit me with your best suggestions. Bonus if anyone knows of any manageable medium format cameras for the mountains as well!

TLDR; Have always preferred the process of shooting film photography, looking for a solid, fully manual analog camera to climb with. Should be able to withstand the elements/won’t weight me down too much.

21 Comments
2024/05/02
20:46 UTC

8

Unsupportive parents

Upcoming rant: Anybody’s parents also don’t approve of our activities? I’m a 26m from the USA heading to Nepal in the fall to climb Ama Dablam. Parents aren’t climbers and aren’t active people. Their idea of a vacation is laying on a beach and drinking for a week. They’ve never been anywhere outside the US besides common Western vacation resorts in Mexico/Caribbean. They know almost nothing about Nepal/climbing culture/or anything outside of how Everest is a place where people go to die. My dad actually told me “I’d be more comfortable with you walking through the Brazilian rainforest alone than going and climbing” and “you can’t train to climb a mountain” and “the world is a dangerous place.” I told them I’m going on a private expedition with 1:1 Sherpa support for 30 days and how that’s the safer option than going with a large group with 1:2 or 1:3 climber/sherpa support. They don’t believe how that’s safer.

My parents are in their mid 50s and incredibly loving and supportive in every other aspect of my life. But this for some reason brings out irrational worry and anger. Not sure if it comes from a place of fear or almost jealously of me. Just wanted to get this off my chest to people who hopefully would understand. Happy climbing y’all

EDIT: thank you all for the kind replies and understanding. My parents definitely come from a place of love but what irks me is they’re quick to demonize and not try to understand (right away). They’re good people. Just very cautious and loving.

32 Comments
2024/05/02
19:52 UTC

0

Any PNW Mountaineering discords?

7 Comments
2024/05/02
18:27 UTC

13

10 point vs 12 point crampons for general mountaineering?

I am trying to decide between 10 point Black Diamond strap on crampons vs the 12 point Sabertooth Pro or the Grivel G12 New Matic crampons for my La Sportiva Aequilibrium LT GTXs.

My main question is... for general/somewhat technical mountaineering, are there any advantages to using 10 point vs 12 point crampons? I'd like to do glacier travel and steeper slopes like Hood one day, and I can't decide if 12 point makes more sense for the long run. However I am not really interested in ice climbing. So are 12 point crampons overkill for my goals? Are there any advantages to using 10 point for less technical climbs (other than weight?)

19 Comments
2024/05/02
18:05 UTC

9

Ama Dablam spring 2026

Hi everyone, I'd like to try to climb Ama Dabmlam spring 2026 with a guide, and I'm looking for your input on training and thoughts about my current mountain experience.

For context, I'm M21, quite fit, climb indoor lead 6B+ ish (5.10d). I hiked Kilimanjaro, 5895m, and Mount Damavand, 5603m (in spring, with crampons), in 2022 and didn't have any struggles with the altitude.
Also, I have been on a few low 4000m peaks, but nothing technical.

Do you think Ama Dablam in 2026 is realistic at all?
Also, do you have any tips when it comes to training? I am aware that I should attempt some more technical climbs before Ama Dablam - do you have any recommendations? I may have time for other expeditions early winter 2026, as well as summer 2025 (preferably not crazy expensive...).

Lastly, do you recommend any particular companies? I'd prefer the local companies, as they are a lot cheaper.

Thanks a lot in advance!

14 Comments
2024/05/02
14:23 UTC

136

Beautiful ama dablam

4 Comments
2024/05/02
10:06 UTC

2

Mt Hood reports?

Hi folks - this might be an obvious question but where would I find Mt Hood climbing reports etc? I'm looking at sumitpost.org but I only see one entry from 2024. Anywhere else I should be looking at? Trying to find latest climbing conditions as well as would like to monitor weather conditions
thanks

4 Comments
2024/05/02
05:52 UTC

0

Guys I need help

Hey guys I want to get into technical climbs. I am 14 and have down Everest base camp trek and Kilimanjaro what would you suggest

15 Comments
2024/05/02
04:11 UTC

6

Rab Softshell Pants Selection

Hello all,

I have been looking at the selection of pants from Rab's website for a bit now trying to decide which model to choose as I'm hoping to get away from the cotton in my Keb pants.

For the foreseeable future I would be using these primarily for late spring and early summer ascents along the West Coast of the US like Shasta, Hood, and eventually Baker, Shuksan, Rainier, etc..

I think the Torque fits the bill but would like input from this community on whether or not the Incline or Ascendor lines would be better suited to my needs.

Any advice is appreciated. On a side note, emergency bivvy recommendations are appreciated as well. Thank you

8 Comments
2024/05/02
01:28 UTC

1

Looking for (relatively) novice mountain hikes to do in California/Oregon/Washington in June and July this year, any recommendations?

Hey all, looking to get into mountain climbing as a bit of a noob. I’m going on a road trip this summer to a bunch of national parks and looking for some mountains to hike along the way as well. I’m in pretty good shape and have done day hikes of 24 miles and 5000 feet of elevation gain before so I’m ok with doing some pretty strenuous hikes, but I don’t have any mountaineering gear and it’s not really in the budget right now to buy stuff, plus I don’t have any proper mountaineering experience so anything involving ropes/anything beyond some mild bouldering to reach the summit is a no go at this point. What are the best mountain hikes on the west coast that can be accomplished with hiking boots, layers, and some trekking poles in June and July?

9 Comments
2024/05/02
00:43 UTC

66

Have any of you experienced Paradoxical Undressing during the climb, if so, what did it feel like?

32 Comments
2024/05/01
23:44 UTC

4

Mt. Baker Conditions

Hello I’m planning on doing a 5 day Glacier course at Mt Baker in a few weeks. Can anyone that lives nearby give a conditions report?

Best thing I can find is snow depth at the ski resort of 274 inches.

What are the current trailhead conditions for the Easton glacier and the CD route ? Thanks!

7 Comments
2024/05/01
18:02 UTC

15

Any other ITBS sufferers out there?

Calling all ITBS (IT band syndrome) sufferers out there. What do you do to build muscular endurance (not just strength) in the hip muscles? I've had some pretty persistent ITB issues in my left leg, and I'm doing PT to build up the hip muscles, create more mobility/flexibility, etc. But those exercises are rehabilitative and they don't really prepare the muscles for spending hour after hour after hour walking uphill/downhill. It's not very easy for me to train regularly on steep hill terrain, so I'm looking for flatland exercises that will help. Yes, I could just do box steps for an hour, but it's spring here and I'd love to get outside. Any creative ideas? Running and trail running won't really do it (mostly flat trails and roads). I was thinking of cycling on the theory that low-cadence/big-gear work would probably hit some of those muscles. What do folks here do to transition from simple rehab to building meaningful endurance?

11 Comments
2024/05/01
17:22 UTC

0

best places to go early May? (may 10-12)

I booked a trip to Oregon and was planning to drive to Mt. Rainier, but saw posts that early May is not an ideal time to visit the national park. Where else could I go? I'm really into mountains. Was trying to avoid Colorado since I've been there a few times already and wanted to try something new.

10 Comments
2024/05/01
16:46 UTC

0

Any advice on boots?

Hi guys,

Is there anyone who can advise me a bit on which boot to buy? At the moment I am training to do Mont Blanc and Aconcagua in the next years, though I’m dreaming of one day conquering an 8000’er. With that in mind, I’m looking for a boot that would be able to do all of the above, since I’d prefer to spend my money only once. However of course, an 8000 meter boot might be too warm for Mont Blanc for instance. I do tend to get cold feet and hands relatively easily, I think also because of me being long and skinny. I’ve had an old pair of La Sportiva boots (similar to the Cube GTX, though they are worn out, which suited quite well. I heard that Scarpa’s tend to be a bit wider than La Sportiva boots. Which boot would be best for me? (I’ve been looking at Olympus Mons and G2 Evo though I just can’t figure out which would be the best buy)

Thanks!

9 Comments
2024/05/01
16:34 UTC

8

Best time to climb Rainier lately for a summit?

I have tried two unsuccessful guided attempts the past few years to summit Rainier and am looking to try again. I really want to get to the top but weather turned me around both times. I have read July and August give the best chance for a summit but have also read that the best weeks have been moving up in the season also. Is early August still usually successful? What would you recommend as the best window for having good weather for a successful summit?

15 Comments
2024/05/01
16:10 UTC

52

Gorak shep Everest base camp trek

0 Comments
2024/05/01
09:26 UTC

2

Winter Triglav as preparation for Gran Paradiso and Mont Blanc

I'm planning to climb Gran Paradiso and Mont Blanc in the summer of 2025 (hopefully with Mont Blanc guides). I've already summited the non technical peaks of Toubkal and Kilimanjaro so I've got decent endurance and experience with altitude.

Would Triglav in winter be a good preparation for my first Alpine expedition?

I'm open to other suggestions in mainland Europe.

3 Comments
2024/05/01
08:03 UTC

1

Mt Adams conditions

Anyone recently been up Mt Adams? Looking to go this weekend but NWAC has stopped reporting avalanche conditions and the USFS hasn’t updated their road conditions since April 22nd. Looks like a storm will roll in Sunday afternoon but I’m more curious how many miles I’ll have to park away from the trailhead (last report was 7 miles) if the road is still covered in snow. Any recent beta would be much appreciated!

7 Comments
2024/05/01
03:59 UTC

14

Unweighted running vs weighted hiking

Hey everyone,

I typically train using a stair master since I don't live near moutains. I'm currently traveling for work and am in the mountains and was wondering if it makes more sense to train by running with no weight or to hike with a weighted pack. I typically use 20 pounds of added weight in the pack and do about 600+ flights of stairs.

Does running use the same muscles and will it simply build on my training or is there something that weighted hikes offer than running doesn't?

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: I am training for climbs like Rainier, Shasta, etc.

23 Comments
2024/05/01
00:09 UTC

0

Altra Lone Peak All Weather Mid 2 - suitable for summiting?

https://www.altrarunning.com/shop/gifts-for-the-hikers/mens-lone-peak-all-wthr-mid-2-al0a7r6u

Like the title asks, I am wondering if these would be suitable to use for summiting climbs in the PNW.

I have a wide toe box, and have found that outside of Altras, I have trouble finding any shoe that really fits my foot shape.

With the introduction of the Lone Peak All Weather Mid 2, I feel like I have found the perfect boot. I have used them in snow with micro spikes, and never get blisters or discomfort, and get good waterproof protection.

However, I have never used them mountaineering on anything serious, where crampons will be required, or where temps will be colder.

All of my summits would be in the summer (most ambitious is a Baker attempt this year), but I do not know if something like the lone peaks is substantial enough even with extra socks

Does anyone have any experience using non mountaineering specific boots for summits? Or have any recommendations for wide toe box mountaineering boots? (I've heard some people mention scarpas but then others say that they still don't have a very wide toe box)

18 Comments
2024/04/30
21:04 UTC

0

A novice in mountaineering

Hi all,

I have done couple of good hikes and have visited national parks for hiking. But I want to really up my game by training rigorously for mountaineering and hiking. Any beginner groups going for hiking / mountaineering for some cool and adventurous hikes in late June or mid July? I’m interested to learn more about it and know how can take steps forward!

9 Comments
2024/04/30
18:12 UTC

1

What prep should I be doing?

I have the stamina of a dead horse and the knees of an 80 year old. Yet I’m 21.

My fitness is far below what it should be and I would like to fix it. I love the outdoors and go camping every opportunity I get. I would really like to start including some hikes/mountain climbing in this as well as I love the views from the top.

I’ve done snowdon three times now (most of you probably just consider this a small hill but it felt big to me) and each time my knees give in. I’ve managed to summit it each time but every time I do it, my knees give out farther from the top. I’m pretty sure it’s my tendons that are the issue as I have the same in my arms, but every step feels like my quads could detach from my legs. It’s a pain that is hard to describe. This is a long term issue I’ve got that rehab wasn’t able to fix. My other option is surgery/steroid injection but they are expensive.

In the meantime however, I would like to fix my cardio issue. What exercises would people recommend for improving my stamina for when I decide to do another mountain? Preferably nothing to high stress on the knees would be ideal.

11 Comments
2024/04/30
17:21 UTC

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