My moped is bogging when it gets close to full throttle does anybody know what could be wrong? It’s got a brand new carb

No license so i need that only goes 25mph so i doesnt become a limited used motorcycle

This is a Solifer from 70s or 80s, I am not sure because it has been at the corner on my grandma's house outside. As expected, it's very rusty.

I recently discovered that my Ciao moped can pedal backwards, and the pedals seem to "drop" backward, feeling a bit loose. I'm not sure if this has always been the case, but it doesn’t seem right? Iv’e had it for a couple of weeks.

Is this normal for Ciao mopeds, or could there be an issue? Any advice on how to address this would be greatly appreciated :-)

I test the C.D.I. with a multimeter and there’s voltage I change the spark (new) No breaking point 4 coils ignition

Tomos a35 has air leak where carb tightens to intake. How can I get rid of this air leak? I’ve seen that there’s supposed to be an o ring in there but my carb didn’t come with one.

Hello everyone, me and my dad have been restoring a 1976 Honda ss50ZK1 for some time now. We have completely rebuilt the engine block and replaced every part that was/could be broken or worn down. When we tried to drive it we came across a problem. The engine works very well while stationary, but when we try to drive it has a really hard time getting up to rpm. It only runs if we open up the throttle extremely slowly, otherwise the engine cuts out. At first we thought it was a fuel problem, so we checked the fuel tap, bought a new carburator, played around with different sizes of jet, but nothing has worked yet. Also it should be noted that the compression is good and that we have good sparks. We can’t figure out what the problem is. If you do know please comment. Thanks in advance

How would one get an M2 license in CA without a drivers license ? Is it easier than an M1 or am I better off just getting that?

Just wondering how these bikes are and are there a lot of parts readily available or should I just hold out for a puch

Ladies, gents, I’m back. I recently posted my bone stock tomos targa complaining that I’m too chunky for it to rocket me up hills like a demon.

But I knew there were answers to my problems…I needed dem treats. All dem treats. You know where yer boy got them? Treatland baby you already know.

Alukit 70cc 45mm + Wills speed party or whatever it’s called.

Got it idling and putting around tonight. I still need to cut one of the side pieces to clear the new carb position. I’ll do some more tuning tomorrow and with that maybe some ripping footy. I’m excited.

I bought a temp gauge that sadly doesn’t fit in the head with the spark plug so I gotta figure something out about that, but the tach functionality works and I set the idle around 4750? Too low?

hello! trying to access if this is a usable cylinder head. thoughts?

Hey guys, I've been working on repairing my new 1981 Passport for about a month now and most recently I've been trying to get the electrical parts on and working.

Yesterday, I realized that I had the connecters for the headlight backwards (which I believe resulted in some of the wires shorting and emitting white smoke for a moment...), but once I switched the two connectors, not only did the smoke cease, but the Headlight and Rearlight came on as well. Something I've been struggling to make happen for about a week.

But almost immediately afterward I ran into the new issue of my bike running fine at idle but turning off as soon as I switch it into first gear.

Like it gives a small lurch forward initially, but the engine turns off as soon as I hit the pedal. I tried doing some googling on the issue but most of what I've seen tries placing the blame on the kickstand switch, which I don't believe my bike has.

I haven't had this problem at all in the last month, so I'm almost inclined to believe that the smoking wires I noticed yesterday might have something to do with it.

Any ideas? Engine literally just kills out as soon as I switch into first (Lights still on). Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Edit: I also am pretty sure the choke is not the issue. I've tried it in multiple positions, and it does not appear to be slipping or stuck.

i bought a 65cc kit for my tomos atx, and now i need to replace the crankshaft since the 65cc piston is 12mm and the piston rod is 10mm but i am not sure if i need to replace the whole crankshaft or just the piston rod

I had a unique question, possible rooted in misunderstanding but I wanted to confirm that this should work regardless of if I have the euro or us clutch already as it replaces the whole assembly other than the bell right? Here’s a photo of the kit and my bike

Link: https://www.doscycles.com/products/vespa-piaggio-malossi-racing-fly-clutch-and-driven-pulley-102mm?_pos=1&_sid=b934a3f6e&_ss=r

If i put pegs like this on my moped Is it still concidered a moped?

https://preview.redd.it/0gicqr6s9dsd1.png?width=2861&format=png&auto=webp&s=4c0b2356c9ed11c798e24032a9ba49a0d2885c0e

Wondering if I should buy this. Lmk if it is fixable.

When you Google it says 25km/h but we all know that isn't ture so what's the top speed

Used Polycam to create a model of my Hobbit; I want to do some CAD modeling for feasibility of some frame modifications to rear end to build out a custom lowered chassis/subframe for another bike. Scan results are probably not fine enough to dimension with at 0.5” accuracy, but would provide a rough estimate to build from before hand dimensioning.

Has anyone gathered any engine/subframe/suspension mounting geometry in a point cloud format before? Granted I can measure by hand but I am not going to tear any peds down until winter I imagine. Just wanted to see if the community had gathered this info or had a better method. TIA

I’ve been trying for a month now but can’t seem to get them of. I haven’t used a pulley yet because I dont think I have anywhere to attach it to since it doesnt have a screw hole and all pulley’s ive seen have a bolt that you need to screw somewhere in. Does anyone know how to get these off?

I've had my my Motomarina Sebring for about 6 months now and I love it. I've slowly been replacing things and making upgrades as it was essentially untouched since the 80s. I now have a biturbo pipe on there, that's serving me somewhat well, and a new 15mm intake and sha, on top of the less interesting maintenance stuff. But the question is, what do I upgrade next? I'll probably kit it a bit eventually but I'm mostly looking for my marginal gains rn. New reed block? Better pipe? Any thoughts appreciated

Wanting to upgrade my 1977 Piaggio Ciao to 65cc. What kit should I go with? Should I get one that has a new head as well or is that just cosmetic? I’m seeping a little fuel at the head as well, so hope new gaskets and such will remedy that

These are the two kits I was looking at:

https://www.treatland.tv/vespa-piaggio-DR-43mm-kit-12pin-p/vespa-dr-43mm-kit-12pin.htm

Or

https://www.treatland.tv/vespa-piaggio-polini-64cc-43mm-kit-p/vespa-polini-43mm-kit-140.0133.htm

This is my 2001 kinetic moped. Just installed 43mm Olympia kit and she rips pretty good! Thought I got her looking pretty good at this point. Just looking to hear people’s thoughts! Also I’m interested in going variated just rough finding a rear trans for a reasonable price.

The body looks rough but everything else looks good but im just looking for something to get around town on