I am in the process of moving, realize that a lot of my equipment need their own cases. I just finished the run of a show in which I played this saw— decided the case should look like a coffin ⚰️! I just completed the rough cuts— excited to see how this will turn out

Subject: Design for Adjustable Wall-Mounted Therapy Shelf

Description:
I am looking to design a vertical adjustable wall-mounted "shelf" for therapeutic purposes. The concept involves:

• A patient standing under the shelf with their arms raised.
• Lowering the shelf to align with the height of their hands.
• Locking the shelf in place once it's at the correct height.
• The patient then pushes against the shelf to engage their muscles without overexerting. The goal is muscle balance rather than strength, so the shelf must be sturdy enough to handle potentially excessive force from patients learning to control their strength.

Design Considerations:

• I plan to use aluminum extrusion for its versatility, allowing future modifications or expansions.

Questions:

1. What material or type of vertical rails should I use?
   • Considering the need for durability and adjustability.
2. How should I design the shelf supports to move up and down the vertical rails?
   • The system should allow easy adjustment, movement, and locking by staff members.
3. What would be a good material for the shelf?
   • It needs to be wide enough for large hands.
   • It needs to be as rigid as possible, with little if any flex.

This design needs to be user-friendly for staff while ensuring it's robust enough for therapeutic use. Also, please let me know if there is a better place to post this question.

Thank you in advance!

Alright, Reddit hive mind, I need brain juice. I’ve built a few robot-style whiskey dispensers as gifts (because obviously robots and whiskey are the peak of human achievement). Now, I’m crafting one as a buddy’s wedding gift, and this dispenser needs to pour smoother than Sinatra at happy hour.

The Problem 🤔

My current setup uses a threaded fitting for the bottle attachment, but it’s picky—it only works with bottles that have matching threads. Imagine showing up to a party and being told your whiskey bottle isn’t “thread-compatible.” Tragic.

The Dream Adapter 🦾

1️⃣ Securely seals bottles of varying spouts, threaded or corked (Whiskey bottles come in more neck styles than fashion week.)

2️⃣ Allow easy swapping without needing a PhD in threading precision.

3️⃣ Preferably food-safe because lead poisoning is not the flavor profile we’re going for. Although, epoxy can be used to coat non-food-safe materials.

I’ve seen a wooden dispenser with mystical sleeve-style adapters, but I’m working with galvanized pipe, and I have no clue how to merge these worlds without summoning an ancient whiskey demon.

This 3 digit display will be going on the outside of a metal pottery wheel body. I can't seem to find a plastic cover to suit it.

I thought surely someone has been in the same situation. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all. I'm designing a 2DOF platform to use with a kinetic art installation and I've done a couple things to the design that have unknown consequences to me.

First, because the installation is wall mounted and above eye level, all the movement will exist between parallel to the base and 45 degrees to the base. So I designed the u-joint to have a 20 degree tilt to it so I'd stay in the sweet spot of the joint. Shown here is "home position" which is a 20 degree tilt to the platform.

Second, I extended the linkage attachment points downwards to be roughly parallel with the u-joint. I did this simply out of a gut feeling and really don't know if it was necessary or if it has any negative consequences.

This design has been iterated on a few times already and I'm printing these parts now to test with later today. we've been having some issues with the platform shaking at different spots and believe it to be a motor/driver/software problem but I'm not ruling out that there are some unintended resistance points in the design either.

It seems to move fine in Fusion motion studies but I don't really trust that I set it up correctly or that the motion study can be applied to real world uses in this case.

So if anybody has words of wisdom or critiques to this design I would love to hear it.

Many thanks

Side view oriented to its final installation position

Rear view

https://preview.redd.it/at7bxq58s0be1.png?width=1760&format=png&auto=webp&s=5ea62c4c9942d1de4570ba122e772437c68ee06b

The big thing with this one is that it’s fully hand stitched without using glue or anything to initially hot it together. I did however use a small amount of super glue to hold the zipper on while I affixed the top layer of fabric. The mask itself is spandex and burlap, that was then coated in a healthy amount of cheap Halloween isle latex,then painted with acrylic paint, and this lovely product called haunt sauce. It looks like nacho cheese and then it dries to look like the red section of the mask. I have a full costume that goes with the this mask that I’m currently updating for the next season. This mask was my project for June of 2023, and it was a painstaking process but the outcome is well Worth it

I can weld, or build, absolutely anything. My problem is that I am not creative enough to come up with a design. A girl I really like asked if I could make her a folding step/ramp for her dog to get in the backseat of her car. Dog is 40 lbs mixed breed. Car is a land rover. Anyone know where to turn to find drawings or a sketch?? I'd like it to be light and collapsible. This is my shot at impressing a woman I adore.

Greetings fellow makers! After some experiments with a wood burner I thought it would be cool if I could make a “stamp” that I heat up and press into wood to burn in the design.

I was initially thinking about getting aluminum bar stock and then using a Dremel to carve my design but I’m not sure it would be a good idea to heat that up.

I’m not a metallurgist by any means but I do have a fire pit.

Any suggestions for what I should use for metal?

UPDATE:

Thank you all for your replies! I’ve read them all as of 7:45 PM EST and it looks like I should not use aluminum and that I might want to use an outside company to make this for me!

I am surprised there are no pre-made aluminum extrusion desk clamps for 2020 or 2040 profiles. The closest premade mount which may be used on a desk I found is https://amazon.com/dp/B0BJZW9H1J - but it is not a clamp. There is an assembly posted in a video https://youtu.be/C_bnKYHRYUU - but it is an assembly to a specific C-clamp, not a pre-made.

Am I missing something basic? Is that such a rare ask?

Hi All,

I'm working on a project which will direct a domain to a webserver hosted on a Raspberry Pi 2W hosting a website with 1 page with a tick box which will turn on and off an LED attached to a GPIO on the Pi. The only additional element I need is to either know how many people have clicked the button or how many people have visited accessible via a secondary page.

So I'd like some feedback on my plan of action below:

• NGINX Webserver appears to be the most suitable for this type of static content, likely on a headless version of Debian.
• A Cloudflare tunnel to route the domain to the host without opening ports (not done this before)
• The Pi will likely be alone on its own isolated VLAN just in case it gets compromised
• I assume it would be prudent to run fail2ban for some extra protection (not done this before)
• I assume I'd need to setup SSL Certs (via CF) to avoid security warnings to visitors (not done this before)
• How can I securely control the LED? Years ago I had a project that controlled relays over Apache, but that was only over the LAN so I wasn't really worried about the security of it, however opening up to the WWW I obviously don't want to allow a potential exploit that would give shell access!
• Visitor/button press counter - not looked in to this yet, but if there are recommended solutions then happy to hear them, either run locally or I guess I could use Google analytics or similar?

So there are quite a few things I've not done before, but I'm fairly happy following some guides to get them done, the bit that worries me the most is the bit I have done (the GPIO control), as pretty much everything I've read so far doesn't really talk about security and exposing to the web, so it's difficult to know if it's a concern or not.

Any feedback on this plan welcome, initially I was thinking of just setting up an ESP32 and just port forwarding as I assume that this is relatively secure purely down to it being read only and I guess could get visitor tracking information from an external tracker via a hidden image or something.. but guess https wouldn't be possible, is that even an issue??

Anyone got a fusion or other format for a keystone receptical? These are the square holes that accept different types of plugs like Ethernet or rca etc. Lot of examples for 3d printing with STL file but I’m looking to incorporate this in my own model working in fusion. Or better yet a diagram with the dimensions and I’ll model it from scratch….

I'm designing a 2DOF platform for an installation that will be mounted vertically. Looking for the smoothest movement possible. The one thing I can't seem to figure out though is how to eliminate the play that exists in the u-joint I"m using in the middle. It doesn't seem like a lot when holding the joint itself but the effect it has on the platform itself is fairly significant.

I've tried a few different orientations for weight distribution and the problem persists, even mounted horizontally. I'm about to go and design my own u-joint using m3 bearings and merge the two sides into the parts themselves.

Before I go through the trouble, does anyone have recommendations for other parts I might use or ways I might save myself the redesign?

Thank you!

https://reddit.com/link/1hptq0r/video/7d1rgapi21ae1/player

I made this sculpture a couple years back and since then I’ve seen people try to remake it the exact same way and I’ve even seen people post this exact pic and take credit for my work lol either way enjoy! IG scatterbrain_fabrication

At thrift stores, I see these Fort Toys which are just some mystery plastic balls with holes in them, and long plastic tubes that connect into them. They're okay for making small forts for small kids, but the tubes aren't that strong, and the balls only have holes in specific orientations, allowing only the most basic of designs.

They however cannot make an icosahedron, mimicking the shape of a D20, and THAT is the shape I want, as it's the biggest and strongest for amount of materials used. But I was going to have to find my own mystery balls and then drill holes at specific angles, and I wasn't sure how to go about that.

Then I found these mysterious aluminum rods at a thrift store, and they had nothing else with them. Just a bundle of blue, aluminum, 26.5" rods with white plastic caps at the ends. After asking around on Imgur, they were identified as packing material from Lovesac, specifically from their Sactionals line. The cushion is packed inside that portion of the couch, and held in place by these sturdy rods.

So now instead of wimpy 12" plastic tubes, I have 26" aluminum poles.

I could just 3D print some connectors with holes at specific angles, and bam, icosahedron! Unfortunately, 3D designing is where I'm lacking. I can do super basic stuff in Sketchup, but don't have a decent 3D modeler, and definitely can't work out those needed angles.

The poles are 16mm wide, 26.5" long. I'm thinking the receiving holes should be about 3" long to get a decent grab on the poles. The nice part is, we don't need a whole ball shape for the part, they can just be a slightly angled disc with five holes, and maybe on the inside of the disc, a loop for hooking a carabiner or something, to then run some elastic to the others to keep tension on the build. Since PLA is much weaker than aluminum, I would suggest designing the parts to be pretty girthy. I would also make two models, one which is the basic part with the five holes, and then a floor part, with just four, allowing you to set it flush on the ground.

I'm sure this question gets asked all the time, but I have to try asking around. I graduated college over a year ago, and have made just enough of a living through part time Live Sound work. I have a wide variety of skills that I've picked up through hobbies and through odd jobs I've worked over the years, including electronics repair, auto mechanics, basic carpentry, basic metalworking, etc. I'm very good with my hands, and very good at learning new things and bettering my skills. I'm a maker at heart, and love repairing and designing things.

What jobs would I be qualified for as a beginner, or would make sense for me to be looking for? It feels like all the skills I have aren't good enough to get me hired anywhere. For example, I don't know how to weld, so I feel like I wouldn't stand a chance in an actual metal fabrication or machine shop. My knowledge feels is very wide breadth, shallow depth. I would love to work in a shop doing things like electronics repair, or woodworking and metalworking, designing and/or building basically anything, etc.

What sort of shops should I be looking for in my area that would be open to hiring someone that doesn't have an official certification or trade school degree? What kind of shops are typically "maker" shops?

Let say I just want it to make a 3 ingredient salad - Cucumber, Tomato and Green Onion (partially chosen as I think of it as a simple case)
I'm thinking of one of the open source say 6-axis arms.
Lets say as an end effector I have a dual part, one soft gripper to the side of a straight blade.
I understand we have vision modules to locate at least the original item, might need training to define pieces?
Is it doable today with public stuff?
If so how hard would that be to expend to any veggie as just a prep cook say making a full Mise en place (all cuts for all produce)

I know there are several cooking projects that actually deal with the 2nd part, they actually assume you supply the prep and they cook, but I'm more interested in it doing the prep at the moment.

What's missing for this goal? IDK how good soft grippers are, I understand grippers might be a big thing, I was just thinking if I softly push anything to the side of the knife (front/back, depends on how you look at it) that would allow most things until it's too small but than anyway the chop motion is different and you don't hold it?

(total noob to robot arms, just looked at vids and got a mental inspiration)