I'm going to be adopting a leopard gecko shortly, and she injured her back left leg and it unfortunately had to be amputated. I have some questions about how I should care fore her.

1. should I provide her climbing opportunities? I was told that the vet believes that she fell (or was dropped) from a tall height or that the terrarium door was closed on her leg. if she had placed to climb, would it increase her chances of falling?

2. should she be housed on loose substrate? when I get her, I'm planning on housing her on paper towels for 1-2 weeks. but after that, should she only be housed on paper towels? by the time I get her, her stitches will be removed and she shouldn't have any open wounds.

Hey all! Since I’ll have some jingle in my pocket soon I’m gearing up to give my gecko a huge upgrade from this 20 gallon he’s currently in. (Yes, I know, he should be in at least a 40, but I haven’t been able to give him that kind of upgrade getting paid the way I was) I plan on upgrading him into a front opening 50- maybe 100 gallon if it’s available.

This time I have plans of modeling the enclosure off of Moab and maybe Zion national parks. I want some advice from more experienced custom background creators. My first run was OK, but definitely not up to my standards. I’d also love any advice people can give me on desert plants/cacti that will be gecko safe and support a bioactive environment. Chances are I plan on making this upgrade his final upgrade, and I want to make sure it’s borderline perfect and I’ll only have to make minor adjustments in the future. Pictured is his current enclosure (I tong feed only to prevent substrate intake and he’s also the worst at hunting)

My y/o Leo has been on a diet for about a year and a half now (she's so old that she really doesn't exercise or hunt, and taking her out just results in her going to sleep in your hands) and I'm beginning to wonder if we're aiming for the correct goal weight? She has a regrown tail that's about half the length of a normal tail. Should I be allowing her to be storing more fat on her body and in her tail than the visual guide indicates, in order to make up for having less tail mass to store fat and nutrients, or should we continue using the visual guide as a target assuming that the shorter tail won't have any impact?

How’s my little boys tail regrow looking? I did get him like this and it seems to grow a little each shed.

So I was give two Leo geckos (one male and female) they were housed together unfortunately. I separated them and I’ve had them for a week now. Well the female laid an egg and I don’t have proper substrate yet since they’re quarantining on paper towels still. For now I removed the egg and put it in a container fill with moist paper towels (this happened like 20 min before I had to leave for work so I quickly googled what I could do) what can or should I do???

https://imgur.com/a/Ln7a5fx

Those is my daughter's gecko, we have had him for about 2 months now. He's doing well, in a 18x18 bioactive enclosure. He loves his crickets and wax worms. Has shed several times since we brought him home, and weight has gone from 41g when he first came home to 50g (we suspect he was not being fed very often at his previous home/were told he was 6m old when we bought him.)

My daughter mentioned his toe being a different colour today. Got the best picture I could, and am wondering if this looks like fungus, or necrosis from a stuck shed? She feels he doesn't like when she touches it/is having a possible pain response.

Would love some advice on how to proceed. And as a note, we are not in the US, and we live in a rural area without any exotic vets.

Thanks.

I just made a post about my big boys upgrade. He is now in a 36×18×18 which is a 50 gallon.

His heat lamp is a 100w iridescent and he has a linear uvb t5. I can't get Temps up past 80 on the hot side now. It's only been a few hours with the new tank and substrate....should I give it longer? Or is there something else needed to heat this baby up.

I recently purchased 3 Herpstat 2 Spyderwebs for my enclosures. for about a month I had all three plugged into the same power strip, each running only a Mini Deep Dome with an Exo Terra Solar Glo 80W on heat (dimming) mode with no issues.

about a week ago I added an Arcadia Pro T5 7% UVB ShadeDweller in a reflector to each setup. since then I’ve had nothing but trouble. multiple days I’ve received a bunch of error emails saying “Safety Relay Status=ON” immediately (within the same minute) followed by emails saying the error has been resolved. when it sends the error email the herpstat screen will flash a message that I believe says “invalid probe” but it never stays long enough for me to get a close look. I’m using the probes that came with the herpstats and they are at the edge of each basking. I looked up the error and found advice from Spyder to switch to heat (pulsing) for the heat lamps and try moving the probes 6” away from electrical cords to prevent electrical interference, but neither of those things helped. I got tired of the constant alarms from the few seconds where the error email is sent before it is resolved so I unplugged the ShadeDwellers thinking it was too high a load for the thermostats but the problem did not stop.

did I damage the probes somehow? did I overload the power strip and now it even handle the three lamps I was originally running? are all three thermostats just broken?? any and all advice/questions/suggestions welcomed!

I got a leopard gecko a few weeks ago and I have now made this new bioactive enclosure for her yesterday. I had a few problems that Ive researched and found almost no specific answer to so I hope this reaches the right people.

I used the 70:30 topsoil and sand mixture and let it dry completely, but it was so dusty when dry but I was worried it would be too humid for her if I put it in wet. I added it in when it was dry and started to add the plants and I watered the soil for the bottom to get wet too (i also have a drainage layer btw) but the humidity spiked really high, but don’t I need to keep watering the soil once it goes down again? Plus I’m planning to keep critters in there for clean up so I’m not sure how I would keep the top layer dry but not dusty but maybe the bottom moist for the bugs? Does that make sense?? So basically how do ya’ll take care of the substrate once it settles without humidity spikes.

The humidity has gone down since yesterday, it was at like 65 on warm and 80s on cool and now its 54 on warm and 73 on cool.

Also where do I put the hydro/thermometers? I have them near the soil but maybe thats why the humidity picks up so high? Idk if they should be more towards the center or not.

I have a plant light and the zilla basking fixture lamp I think it’s called? It has uvb and heating which is not producing enough heat but I am going to buy a halogen floodlight and I already ordered a thermostat w dimmer for it lmfao not to worry. And I am planning to get her a tube uvb light in the future, they are just pricey and this is what I had.

Also what to do when she poops now. And how do I know if she pooping in this tank.

Gecko info:

Shes around 9-10 years old I believe, the girl didn’t know exactly. When she gave her to me she was in a dirty 10 or 20 gallon with one hide, a water bowl, had a heat lamp w a broken bulb, and reptile carpet. I had cleaned her tank, put paper towel down, gave her UVB + heat and two more hides, one moist. Oh and I added calcium. I kept her in there for like 3 weeks.

I also did ALOT of research about her to make sure she was acting normal since her conditions weren’t great. She doesn’t seem malnourished, her limbs look fine, and since I’ve put her in her new tank she’s explored and been out of her hides alot more. The only thing is that she’s accidentally eaten moss twice only while Ive fed her. But her appetite is still good.

Dump Truck got a check up today! Vet said he's perfect. Not sure why he's breathing weird, but his weight, eating, pooping, and activity levels are perfect for a baby his size.

I can't wait to see how handsome my new shiny Boi looks when he's done shedding!!

My 2 year old gecko Thorin lives in a 40g Zoomed tank. The substrate is the Biodudes Terra Sahara with lots of leaf litter. The heating is a 100 watt deep heat projector over the left side of the tank. My gecko's hot hide is under it. It stays about 90 degrees. The cool/right side of the tank stays about 70 degrees. I also have a 30" Fluval Plant 3.0 aquarium light over the tank for general viewing. It was an old light I had in storage. The tank has been setup for about a year. I water the plants once a week or so.

The plants are different succulents I get at Walmart or Lowes. The problem is that most of them don't grow very much or just slowly wither and die after a few months. I have the light intensity at 100% for 9 hours per day. Is the Fluval Plant light not strong enough to grow succulents? I'd like to add more plants to the tank if I can get them to grow better. The only plant that's done well is the "tree" in the middle right of the tank.

What plants and grow lights would you recommend? Any other general suggestions on how to improve the tank? Thanks

I want to add plants to my enclosures and I work at a succulent nursery so I already have a ton of plants in my collection thanks to my employee discount. I have seen the lists of species that are safe and there are things like ponytail palms on those that I haven’t had an interest in before but we have them in stock for spring so I want to buy them while I can, but I’m nervous about introducing unwanted hitchhikers to my enclosures. I feel like I should just risk shocking them and take them out of the soil completely so I can rinse off the roots to get rid of any insect eggs and rinse the whole plant to remove potential pesticide residue. To my knowledge the plants we sell that we raise at our own dedicated growing location do not have pesticides on them and once they are at the retail location we do not apply anything to them, and the nursery is all outside or in greenhouses that we only seal in the winter so insects are frequently out and about in the pots. But we also import plants from all over the world for retail and I would not be able to know what happened to them before they came to us. My enclosures are not bioactive (although that is a goal for the summer) so I do not have cleaner insects, but if it was bioactive idk if parasites and pesticides would still be a concern. Am I overthinking this? Should I just rinse off the leaves and leave the roots alone? Pic is a few of the plants in my collection that I’m considering adding to the enclosures

Leopard gecko. 20+ blue 20+ orange isopods. 4 Dubai roaches. 7 superworms. 100+springtails culture. 40 gal breeder with proper heat and humidity gradients. What to expect in the future?