When leaving campground for a few days, what’s a safe temp to leave the propane furnace at so that the water lines don’t freeze? I have a heated underbelly, we’ve had a couple nights it’s dropped down below freezing, just don’t wanna run out of propane while I’m gone

Always bought new, never bought used. Always bought in summer, not winter. I know RVs take a lot of work and have done most repairs myself. Initial inspection for water damage, tires, roof, slide out, etc was all good. But how do I know the air conditioner or fridge works when it's below freezing outside?

How do I check the tankless water heater or ( any plumbing for that matter) when the unit is winterized? How do I know if the heat works if the propane isn't filled?

This is a dealer. What do I reasonably expect them to do for me in regards to these issues? The unit will not be under warranty. Of course the sales guys assured me everything will work.

I want this unit, perfect fit, good price and so far it looks good. I'm getting a bit nervous at this point though.

Is this just the chance you take buying used?

Hi there, my partner and I recently bought a 1998 Sunline RV, and we are trying to figure out how to power it.
Our plan is to work on it over the winter, and then permanently park it on our vacant property. We do not have power on our property, so eventually we would like to run it on Solar power and build up a battery bank once we can afford it.

For now, we are just looking to replace the 12V battery, since the trailer did not come with one.
Based on my research, most people seem to be recommending Lithium batteries. Since this is an older trailer, I am assuming the current converter is incapable of charging the newer lithium batteries properly.

I am having trouble figuring out what kind of batteries and converters would be compatible, so if anyone has advice about this, I would really appreciate it! I have attached a picture of the converter to this post. I don't know what any of it means!

I would also love recommendations on battery brands (in Canada), and solar setup advice. I know we will eventually need an inverter and some panels, so if anyone has experience with that, I would be happy to hear it!

Lastly, the trailer has a bunch of frayed wires in the front where the original battery once was. Does anyone know what those are?? I want to move the battery storage zone to one of the side storage compartments. Is there anything I should be aware of when doing that?

Thanks for the help with all my questions!

Edit: we also have a small generator to use when it's too cloudy for solar. Some folks are suggesting I skip the converter upgrade all together and just charge the batteries using solar or generator power instead. Would love more insight on this option as well! Thanks for everything so far folks :-)

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I live in a tourist town, and the only place I can park my trailer is near the street. A couple months ago, I noticed that the handle on my black tank was pulled out, but the cap was still on. (I assume this was done deliberately, out of spite, because some people in my town are angry about people living in trailers--which I'm not doing, but I do occasionally use it as an "office", which is completely legal in my city.)

Fortunately the tank was nearly empty, so when I opened the drain cap there was only a small amount of nasty brown water that spilled out before I was able to get the hose on. But if it was full, it would have been a disaster.

Is there any simple way to secure the valve handles, so this couldn't happen again. Or, is there a better way to deal with the mess if it happens again?

Context: I'm looking into getting a water heater(fogotti insta shower 7) that uses 48,000 BTU, whatever that means. Temperature outside at night can get between 25°F and 40°F so the ground water is pretty damn cold. I live in my RV

Q1: If the water heater and a stove are the only things that run on propane how long would a 20lb tank last me(I know it's impossible to have an exact number but a rough estimate would help)?

Q2 : Can I turn off the water heater at night or in general until I need to use it, or is that bad for the water heater?

Q3 : What's the best places to refill propane tanks for the best price. After some research I found out Costco sells propane. I had no idea this was a thing or where to go to get it filled is Costco actually a good place to get filled up?

Q4 : I have a blue rhino tank(gas station exchange tank for grills) hooked up right now so what's the best place to get a tank.

Sorry if I organized this in a weird way it might be confusing to read. If y'all have any questions please ask cause I'm in uncharted waters right now and don't know what to do.

I’m hoping to find a camper that has a washroom and is short enough to fit through the doors in my 8ft tall garage. Width/length isn’t an issue but I’m having a hard time finding something short enough. The Trailmanor pop-up hard-sided trailer looks perfect but doesn’t seem to be available in Canada. I don’t want something soft-sided. Ideas?

We bought our first pop-up camper this past summer so I'm a complete newbie when it comes to how to take care of it. Our neighbor gave us an extra battery he had from his old camper so now I have two. I brought the batteries in for the winter and will be storing them in my basement. I was told I need to get a trickle charger/battery maintainer to keep them properly charged while in storage but I'm not really sure what I should be looking for?

Are there particular specs I should be looking for? Does anyone have recommendations on good ones you have used that would fit my needs?

Good morning everyone,

I have had an Anderson plug installed in my 2024 Isuzu MUX. It has a 60amp fuse at the vehicle battery end of the conduit. When the vehicle is on, 14v (14.03 to be precise usually) is shown on the multimeter before the fuse, directly after the fuse and at the actual Anderson plug at the rear of the vehicle.

When I plug my caravan into the Anderson plug within a couple of minutes the conduit near to the battery becomes very hot to the touch, and the fuse will blow if not disconnected (or the vehicle is turned off). At the van, where the power enters the DCDC charger there is no voltage drop evident. Given the conduit from the van's Anderson plug is through the A frame it's difficult to investigate this thoroughly, although it may have to come down to this. The van is drawing 50 amps. I have tried a low load device (compressor fridges) on the cars Anderson plug and it works without any heating of the cable.

Before I get an auto electrician, I'm wondering if there is any other trouble shooting anyone can recommend.

Many thanks, Justin.

Just wondering

Had house battery problems due to operator error. 1 how to tell if battery won’t take a charge 2 everything is back on except the microwave ( will work with an extension cord from house) and all driver side outlets. Check all fuses and breakers. Is it due to a weak battery ( have 2 acid batteries) Any ideas or readings to take. They are on 10amp quick charger now. Thanks

Hi everyone,

We are renting a trailer from RVEZY to be delivered for 3 days next month. I'm trying to find out what supplies the trailer has in it and the guy keeps just telling me to bring what I need. I'm asking if they supply the toilet chemical, pots, pans kitchen stuff, like normal stuff. I really dont' want to drag all this with if it's already there. Is this normal? This amount of vague information? I thought there would be a list of supplies.. like they have with AbnB. or something. Am I asking for too much?

Does anyone know about these? Are they known to have problems? I found one that looks pretty solid. Runs. I have a skoolie that I want to sell because the only person I know that can work on them is the bus shop in town and it makes it hard to take care of stuff if things go wrong. I have an issue know where it doesn't go out of 1st. I'm pretty sure mice chewed through stuff. I want something big and can fit my family that my mechanic can work on. Also if something happens on the road, I want your average mechanic to be able to work on it. Something with a chevy or ford engine. Something where parts wont be super expensive either.

What do y'all think? Should I avoid older RVs and go newer, or where the ones back then built right? Can I modify stuff easily, like add solar panels, roof racks, etc.

I want to book a RV for in 6 months with the black friday deal, but have not yet decided if I want/need the zero damage plan. Can I add it later/when picking up the vehicle, or would i need to cancel and re-book without the black Friday discount then?

Picked up a well reviewed and affordable cover for our Jayco Eagle 312BHOK... went on pretty easy and seems secure... lets see what the NY winter does to it...

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Looking to buy RV at the end of the year …was just going to start the financing with someone who was recommended to me. In the meantime a relative said he would loan me $90k …and I could repay when I sell my condo…at the beginning of 2025. Sounds perfect …but I’m stumped …

1st time RV Owner … and I used to be the person that would walk in test drive a car and walk out without negotiating! Not anymore! Lol. My question… Do I:

• walk into dealership and tell them what I need the out the door price to be?

• I know they’re going to start asking are you trading in? Are you going to finance and I really don’t want to discuss that with them I wanna lock a price in first. ….correct???

• or do I say I wanna walk out the door paying 89,000 even you figure out how that’s gonna happen not in that exact wording. ???????

And to top it off, I need two things :

• I want to do a private inspection which I know the dealerships that I looked at both of them allow you to do it… Do I say that in the beginning or at the end?

• and last but not least the unit we’re buying is wired for a stackable washer and dryer… I want to get that from them since it’s will be covered under the warranty. When do I say that?

Don’t forget, I’m a newbie don’t be critical just be helpful, please lol .

Thanks in advance for your feedback !

watching tutorial videos i have an idea of a few troubleshooting steps, though, thought i'd post here if anyone has critical advice to avoid permanent damage. maybe the motors got out of sync due to mediocre batt voltage? I found that the fluid is low today. i think there is some kind of big hand crank for my hydraulic slideouts in the back compartment, but couldn't find a manual in the manual box for how to use it.

If i get it moving again with fluid refilled tho I gotta prevent one side from trying to move more, so, gotta maybe find that motor and disconnect it? or just get 4 people to help push it in with the valve opened?

I have to get out of the PNW and get some sun before I ruin my marriage. Im looking for the smallest trailer I can find that I can climate control but has enough headroom that I can sit at a small table and then flip into something I can sleep on. Something like a tall teardrop where I wouldn’t have to sit on the floor. I don’t need a restroom or inside cooking area. Pretty much a climate controlled box with some windows and Standing room.

Head line was supposed to say INTECH not intact. sorry.

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Hi, we want a trailer that on the more durable side. We do go to dispersed sites. We want a bathroom. Prefer under 5k weight gvwr.

We were set on a casita but I'm 6'4 and it felt tiny. The intech felt like the absolute perfect one, but we are on a budget and it's at the very top end used (30k).

I saw that the "Riverside Retro" brand trailers are now pretty cheap! They are ALUMINIUM FRAMED like the intechs, it sounds like? Would the Retro trailer with it's canned ham approach be more durable than the run of the mill trailers?

The Retro is in our budget much more comfortably.

Also, how hard is it to lift a trailer a few inches? That's one huge advantage of the intech over the Retro.

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Let me know what you think!

Need help ? Went charge house batteries and shut them off at switch but didn’t disconnect the cables. Now nothing works and the inverter under the couch is off and the converter switch will not stay on ?

Hi all, I have a 2018 jayco 245rls travel trailer. This past year the front corner molding is coming apart on one side. I watched a few videos on replacing it. The videos don't appear difficult, but my issue is I have about a half inch gap between the aluminum siding and the corner molding. I have temporary filled it with crappy sealant (hence why it looks terrible). I was wondering if the aftermarket makes a wider corner molding I could replace it with. That way it would fix the gap and I could just dicor the seam between the molding and the aluminum. Hope that makes sense. Any advice welcomed.

Picture is of the front driver side corner in question.

I currently have a 2017 Ram Rebel that we use to tow our ultralight travel trailer. I have a 13 yo, 11 yo and 7 yo kids. We have outgrown our trailer and were looking for an upgrade.

We found an unbelievable deal that we can’t pass up for an older Class A in amazing condition. The issue is the hitch is rated for only 5000lb, and my truck weighs more than that. We love to travel around the towns we camp in, so we need a TOAD, but I do not have the room to buy a dedicated TOAD vehicle.

I’m looking at selling my truck and getting a lighter truck, but I need it to also for the family of 5 comfortably enough when driving around. The truck needs to have 4x4 as well. I was looking at some of the midsize trucks, but the rear seats look tight, especially in the new Tacoma. Any recommendations? I do NOT want a Ridgeline.

We are looking to purchase our first travel trailer. Currently we live in South Carolina and moving to Anchorage this summer for work. We have two young kids and won’t be doing any winter camping up north.

So far we have narrowed our search down to the Delta or Cougar. They have multiple models with bunk house options. My primary concern is aluminum frame and no wood in the sub floor. I have read to many horror stories about wood floors rotting out.

Any advice on brands would be greatly appreciated. Also, please let me know if I am over thinking no wood. We really like some Grand Design and Jay Feather aluminum builds but don’t like the wooden subfloor.

Hi everyone. New to the forum so appreciate the help here.

We purchased a 2024 Expedition Max with HD Towing package to be able to tow a travel trailer. While it has a massive advertised towing capacity, we get that's not how it works.

We believe that a travel trailer under 6500 lbs (loaded) and 26 feet or under would be safe with a WDH & sway bars. However, I wanted to ask the experts here to confirm.

We will tow short and long distances (long = over 1600 miles), so need to be confident. Our payload should be ok as it's two adults, 2 dogs and some gear and we have those numbers.

Any guidance for us would be greatly appreciated so we can really dial in the trailer models to go check out.

Appreciate the help!

Been RV'ing for three years now and just upgraded from a small KZ 181BH to a Rockwood 2509S. We were hoping to do a shakedown trip before winterizing it til February, but the forecast is now looking like lows in the high 20's here for next weekend.

My main concern is not our comfort but water.

• The new RV does have holding tank heaters, but I'm not yet familiar with them (I guess I just run them the whole time? Or just when it's freezing?).
• And then the water source. I don't have a heated hose. I suppose I could buy one, but this is likely our only trip at this temp for the next year or so. Wondering if just disconnecting it at night is enough? I assume the interior pipes should stay warm if we have the heat on?

I know people do this all the time, but I'm just nervous about it since I have not. Any tips?

Greetings,

I'm looking for help again, I'm currently looking for a used 5th wheel for the family. I've taken a couple trips around to go look at a couple, one was way too far away and dealer told me it had water damage so I canceled that one. I drove pretty far to go see another that had several soft spots in the floor, crunching when I pressed on the walls inside on slide out seams. So I scraped that one.

However today I went to look at a 2015 Heartland Silverado 5th wheel, roof had a little give while walking on it, but the sides near the side walls felt like the shoulders were coming up and could be easily pressed down. I did not see big tears with the exception of a few small places.

I noticed very small rotten spots on three of the slide outs and by the back wall the side wall was exposed from the weather stripping and I could see that the inside plywood was rotten. Overall the rig looked decently taken care of.

I have been looking through videos and other posts about roof repair and such but I'm still nervous that this may be more of undertaking and looking for advice on those who have fixed these repairs?

What would someone ask off of asking price if I have to redo the roof and fix a couple of the corners in the slide outs and one section of the exterior wall? I'm still looking at getting an inspector to go look but trying to save money and see if its worth even having someone else go out and look. I also forgot to take pictures to show everyone. Thanks.