/r/goodyearwelt
The place to discuss high-quality footwear!
Welcome to goodyearwelt!
The subreddit about quality footwear. Dedicated to informing, teaching, and sharing. Topics include a wide range of brands from Crockett & Jones to Guidi. New product releases, daily discussion and community building with a common interest in quality footwear.
Resources
Weekly Schedule (EST)
Day | GD | B/S/T | Q | S&D |
---|---|---|---|---|
Su | 10am | 10am | ||
M | 10am | 10am | 9am | |
Tu | 10am | 10am | ||
W | 10am | 10am | 10am | |
Th | 10am | 10am | ||
F | 10am | 10am | ||
S | 10am | 10am | 10am |
Acronym Key:
Questions or Suggestions?
Last Modified: May 11, 2015
Sidebar Image Source: shibooee's pair of Østmo boots made by /u/Sulucniv
Header Image Source: Louis D.
/r/goodyearwelt
Hello GYW, it's Monday Funday! Take a load off and take a breather. Memes, hot takes and all silliness are welcome!
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
This is a designated Meta thread. In here you can talk about the rules of the sub, their enforcement, potential new rules and guidelines, content that is posted and removed, and any other topics that relate to the sub itself rather than the footwear we all so dearly love. We will get back to you as quickly as possible with responses where they are appropriate or requested, but please be patient as we are not always available or may have to make a decision as a team.
This thread is posted every 12 weeks on Monday and as needed by the mod team.
"This is a scheduled post, if I screwed up please contact the mods."
Found an amazing deal on a pair of shoes but they aren't your size? Share them here so other members can take advantage of the great deals!
"This is a scheduled mod post, if I screwed up please contact the mods."
I've slowly been becoming officially a Boot Person over the past few months, in large part thanks to this community (thanks, jerks). I don't understand why people at work aren't as interested in the various types of leathers and tannages as I am. Weird.
Anyways, after starting to get into good boots slowly with a pair of the more work-oriented Canada West JM Moorby 2801s, and then getting a pair of nice Parkhurst Bidwells in Brown Waxy Commander from their sample section, I set my sights on a Viberg.
I kept my eye on their sight, but wasn't feeling any of this summer or fall's drops, and also checked in on the stockists, but nothing caught my eye.
Until Brooklyn Clothing released these Service Boots in Wooly CXL Burgundy. I almost bought those, before I noticed the Lucida Asfalto Horsebutt! I had been looking for a non-brown or black boot, and these cool gray, with brown and even some blue notes, were calling my name.
Exclusive to Brooklyn Clothing, they only had one size 8, even when I found the listing on the first or second day it had been posted. This must have been a super limited run.
But the price, oh man the price. I'd never even paid half as much for footwear (or any piece of clothing?) as this price. I agonized over it for days, fully expecting (hoping?) to wake up each morning and find the single pair of 8s gone.
Alas, my wallet was not that lucky, and eventually I decided to just do it, and so I did it.
Initial pics from right after unboxing.
There were no obvious production issues out of the box, which was a relief, so I laced them up and slid them on, and they felt great. They were definitely stiff out of the box, but even with that stiffness, you can immediately feel the softness of the vachetta horsebutt that Maryam achieves through the tanning process. The leather is thick, but supple. The toes are roomy without feeling large. They're a bit heavy, but it's just noticeable, and not a problem.
The colour is incredible. It's definitely grey, but depending on the light you're in, it can look quite different from one moment to the next. The photos above were outside on a partly sunny/partly overcast afternoon.
The photos below were taken the same day indoors, after it had fully clouded over. The browns are much more obvious, and there's even a bit of olive that comes through.
I had only tried on the 2030 before, and was a bit worried that the 2040 would fit different, despite Viberg's sizing advice. I was relieved that it feels basically the same. After a week of wearing them around the house for a few hours at a time, I decided to just risk it and wear them out all day (albeit to a desk job - not exactly trekking for 8 hours). There was basically no soreness or tightness, and none of the Viberg blisters that I'd been warned about.
I can definitely feel that they're still wearing in, but the process has been pretty painless for me.
Despite knowing they didn't come with shoe trees, I was a bit disappointed that there was nothing in the box other than the regular shoe bags and laces. At this price point, it seems a bit odd to provide essentially the same purchase experience as one can get at Johnston Murphy or, frankly, The Bay (for the Canadians among us - Macy's, for the Americans). It definitely feels like there's a disconnect between the quality of the product and the quality of the customer experience.
On the other hand, I'm really happy to be able to get such a high quality product, made in Canada.
That's all I've got for now, will post updates when I remember!
Oh, and here's the asphalto, on some asphalt, because I couldn't resist.
I blinked and now I am behind on Thanksgiving planning. Anyone in the US doing anything noteworthy? How is your fall going?
Or post your daily footwear.
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Buy, sell, and trade your shoes.
#Rules
#Recommended Posting Format
Please be a communicative buyer or seller. There's nothing more painful than having someone drop off the face of the earth without leaving some sort of note. Good hunting!
Please report listings that violate the rules above.
"This is a scheduled post, if I screwed up please contact the mods."
So after drooling over pics of natural shell boots (primarlily from u/mrsugar and u/amvoith), I knew deep in my bones that getting a pair for myself was only a question of when. I wanted boots that were casual but looked sharp. Boots that I didn't have to baby. Boots that would only get better-looking with age. In January of last year I got lots of good news, including some unexpected income, so I pulled the trigger on these Carmina Natural Shell Jumpers. These are model 80179 on the Soller last.
Ordering process: They said to allow 60 days for production. After 60 days, I contacted them only to learn they still didn't have the leather from Horween. They apologized for not telling me and threw in a free pair of shoe trees to make up for it. Less than a month after that, my boots shipped, and I got them April 2023.
Sizing: On a UK brannock I'm an 8.5 on one foot and a 9 on the other (HTB, which is the bigger size). Width in-between a D and E on both feet. Low volume feet and skinny-ass ankles. I live just outside of Barcelona, and I ordered these in an 8.5 UK after trying on various different sizes in person at the store in Barcelona with different socks on. A heartfelt thanks goes out to u/lucidpivot for going back and forth with my Brannock pics and subjective descriptions of fit (at one point I thought a 7.5 felt good). It definitely led to me getting this pair which fits great, at least when I'm wearing thick-ass socks. Virtually no break in and my heels are locked in, never experienced any sliding forward or anything like that, and my toes have the room they need to be happy. I've done many 30km+ days and never had a blister or any foot pain. It's possible that some extra volume has contributed to the extra-rolliness of the rolls, but whatever.
Use: I don't really wear these much in the summer here in Spain, as the shell + medium weight darn tough socks send heat radiating right on up my legs. But from October-April these are the pair I go to grab first. I also wear them as my 'travelling boots', so in the few international trips I've made this past year or so they have gotten 2-4 days of heavy use in a row. Guesstimates put these around 80-90 wears total in the 18ish months that I've had them. Conservatively saying 15km/day on average I've already put way more than 1000km of walking on these boots. I don't think they are near a resole, but there is noticeable wear on the heels and toes.
Care: My thought for wearing these boots has been to only baby them when they are off of my feet. I go about my day in them in any weather, play in the park with my son, etc., but at the end of the day they get their shoe trees put in and then I wipe them off with a damp rag. I brush them good often, but probably not after every wear. Three or four times they've been soaked in torrential rain and seemed very dry/dull after fully drying out, so I hit them with some Rennovateur and brushed them until my arm felt like it was going to fall off. An example of this is included in the pics.
Overall, I love these boots, and I think the colour evolution is coming along nicely. I'm looking forward to enjoying them for many years to come! Questions are welcome!
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
These were my second pair of Parkhursts. I got them a bit over a month ago and took a few pictures at the time to share with the community. Sadly I got busy and wasn't able to post them, but want to provide a bit of a review now.
You can also refer to my reviews of my Parkhurst Richmonds in Rust Waxy and my Parkhurst Delaware in Natural Horsebutt.
Details:
Brand: Parkurst - The Allen
Last: 602
Size: 10
Uppers: Brown Smooth.
Sole: Parkhurst Mini Lug
There is a pretty significant difference in colour between the colour of the heels of each boot.
I love the colour in the direct sunlight. It really pops.
First Impressions:
Let's talk about the leather. As I recall, this leather was tanned by Parkhurst's partner Spanish tannery and was described as having many of the same properties as CXL. Sorry, I don't have any CXL footwear that I can use for comparison but they definitely have the pull-up effect that I associate with CXL. I bought these as factory seconds understanding that there would be some scratches/scuffs that would be blended before being sent. This was the case. There were a few scratches in pretty innocuous spots, and a few scuffs around the heel. The leather smelled great and looked great out of the box. When I first looked at them, they were brown with a hint of burgundy. When I saw them sitting in direct sunlight a couple of minutes later in my living room I took a few more pictures. They look more mahogany or cognac. They're more striking in person than I had thought and l just love the colour. The leather was quite thick and stiffer than I had expected (more on that below). Overall, I find this to be a really versatile leather that I can wear around town, or wear to my office job as business casual.
The construction is solid, but the finish was just ok and I'm fine with that for these boots. The welt join isn't the best. The wheeling is a bit messy. There were a few loose threads. The colour of the panels across the boots are uneven. The insole on one boot had excess glue that I noticed rubbing against my sock when I first put my foot in. This isn't something that will stand out to the average person though, but want to point it out. I bough these as seconds, so can't really complain, but I understood the reason for the discounts was scratches and scuffs, not across the board lower level of finishing.
The mini lugs are great. I like the low profile and they have held up well on my Rust Waxy pair.
They came with round and flat waxed laces, both of which are just a bit short for my liking.
Otherwise, these were typical Parkhurst - gusseted tongue, veg tan insole and heel counter, etc...
Fit and first wear:
My largest foot is 10.5D HTT and 11C HTB with a reasonably high instep. These fit my foot well. Snug on the ball of my largest foot, but at a bit of room for toes. Good room in the instep (which I've learned can be a problem for me). The heel was nicely snug. The leather is stiff though, so I couldn't wear them for too long at first because of the pain in the back of my heel against the counter. The leather also was stiff enough at the top of the boot to make my gait feel a bit natural (no bend in my ankle). What I've learned over time is that there is thick leather heel stiffener that helps keep the shape - thicker than in some of the other boots. In my case this was causing pain in the back of one of my heels. Not blisters, but my bone hurt after each wear. I reached out to Andrew and he was incredibly responsive and helpful. He recommended that I work the leather around the heel, squeezing it to loosen it up. I did this with the boot empty and then again after while wearing the boot (after a few hours, when it was warm). Within a few days of doing this I could feel the heel mold to my foot. This really accelerated the breaking in process, and I was grateful for this advice.
The midsole and mini lug feel stiffer on this boot than I recall with my Rust Waxy pair, but I know that will improve with time too. It may sound strange, but this pair is quieter when I walk in the office than my other pair with mini lugs.
The grain break. The second that I put my feet in I could start to see the grain break set in the instep and then down to the around the toe box. You can see this in the pictures. At the time of the photos I had never worn the boot, only tried it on (a couple minutes total on my foot). It's not the nicest break and there even seems to be some veining (not captured in the images above). Some people love this, I don't. I'm fine with it, but certainly would have liked a tightener grain break.
Overall, I like the boots. I love the Parkhurst look and the last fits me well. I really value the fit - it's why I now have three pairs. The leather looks great and I love that Andrew offers variety now. And Andrew is fantastic, offers great customer service and I love supporting him. That said, I might not have bought another pair had these been my first simply because of the number of finishing issues in one boot. The Rust Waxy and Natural Horesbutt pairs seems to be higher quality finish and all three are well constructed, rugged boots that I expect to provide me with years of enjoyment and wear. Having seen Parkhurst’s first quality boots, and understanding that I still love these seconds, I have to say that IMO Parkhurst is great value for money in the boot world.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
I’ve had two transactions with Pete’s Cobbler’s Bench in Washington DC and thought I’d write a quick review for folks in the DMV.
My first transaction was fall 2023 when I took in a brand new pair of Wolverine 1000 Miles to get a topy sole added (link). That repair cost about $100 and the work entailed gluing the topy soles on to the leather outsoles (no stitching and there wasn’t really a threshold line sanded so the transition wasn't very smooth; just basically glued it on).
This transaction didn’t seem like a good deal at the time and if it came up again, I’d probably spend $10 to buy the soles and do the work myself.
More recently, I took a pair of Meermin loafers in for a sole replacement. They’d worn out at the toe, so I asked for toe taps to be added in addition to the resole. This repair cost about $250 and involved stitching, etc.
I’m not a cobbler, so I’ll just offer a couple of observations:
TLDR- They’ll get the work done quickly, but you’ll pay for it. You’re unlikely to be disappointed, but you’re also unlikely to be impressed. Grade: B-, will probably take them somewhere different next time.
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Buy, sell, and trade your shoes.
#Rules
#Recommended Posting Format
Please be a communicative buyer or seller. There's nothing more painful than having someone drop off the face of the earth without leaving some sort of note. Good hunting!
Please report listings that violate the rules above.
"This is a scheduled post, if I screwed up please contact the mods."
Link (I hope)
Purchased January 24, 2022 for $337.31--supposedly a 50% sale, and back then they did retail for $620-637. The left boot also has a kind of outward dimple that may have reduced the value. But they feel fine and I think I'm the only person who notices the defect in person.
Size: 10 B/D. My Brannock is a 10C. The length is spot on, ball of foot is perfect, the heel is pretty snug. Because of my low instep, I added both a kiltie and a wool tongue pad. I lace them tight--but now the fit is just right.
This was the priciest set of lace up boots I'd ever bought. They have a commando half sole over a leather sole. They are lined, and felt very plush when I tried them on. Months later I watched the Rose Anvil dissection of the Indy boot and see many of the same details here: the weird foam piece under the front toes, 360 degree welt, four speed hooks. However, these are on the Barrie last, not the Indy TruBalance.
I don't wear them near as hard as Rose Anvil wore his. But I find them a very attractive boot, easy to break in (no difficulties at all), and no delamination. They're three season boots for me, and mostly just for work and walking around town. At that, they're pretty comfortable walking boots. They don't provide great arch support, but they're not bad, either. I suspect they have the same leatherboard lasting sole as the Indy, but that means they're pretty light for boots, and formed to my feet quickly.
As I say in the pictures, I brush them pretty faithfully after each wear. I've conditioned them with Bick 4 at least once, maybe twice.
In all, they're regulars in my weekly rotation. I don't know if I'd wear them with a suit, but in Western Colorado, wearing suits is pretty rare. At 2 years and 9 month, I think they look pretty good!
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Just picked up my third pair of Viberg in a short period of time. Once I got my first pair I was absolutely hooked, but I need to lay off for a while and enjoy what I’ve got. I’ve got my Camel Oiled Calf pair in the Thunderdome so those will be getting most of my attention for the next several months.
I started boots like probably a lot of others - Thursday Boots. Loved them and still think they are decent value for money, although I don’t know if their QC is dropping a bit as I see quite a few posts about it. Anyway, I quickly progressed from there to Truman and some Indonesian makers like Sagara (one pair) and Txture (two pairs). I haven’t worn the Indonesian boots much as they are more dressy and probably a half size too big, something I’m hoping a Nick’s leather insert will help remedy, and that’s on the way.
I then found out about boots like Viberg, John Lofgren, Rolling Dub Trio, among others. I had a chance to try Viberg and John Lofgren on in person at Blue Owl Workshop during a recent trip to Seattle and I haven’t looked back. I don’t have any Lofgren yet, but I picked up a pair of Viberg in their 2040 last and it’s the best fitting boot I’ve ever tried on. I then picked up the Camel Oiled Calf in the 2030 last on eBay and love those. Then found these Halkett boots on eBay, also in the 2030 last, and couldn’t believe I found them because I had just seen them on the Division Road website. I just received them tonight and just really love the quality. The leather, stitching, and last really just make for a very sleek boot. You can see it when you wear them and you can just tell that the stitch density and refinement of the last is what helps set them apart.
Anyway, looking forward to breaking them in when I get a chance. A nice all black boot was missing in my collection and I really enjoy the look.
these boots are new to me. I bought them from u/siddomer using Buy Sell Trade on this sub. It was an excellent experience. This is my first pair of horsbutt footwear.
Details:
Brand: Parkhurst - The Delaware
Last: 602M
Size: 10.5
Uppers: Maryam Natural Horsebutt
Sole: Ridgeway-style sole
This is my third pair of Parkhurst boots. I also the Richmond Rust Waxy (size 10) and The Allen Smooth Brown (size 10) no review yet.
First impressions: This is my first pair of horsebutt leather boots and...they smell a bit like horesbutt. Not a pleasant CXL smell, but that's fine. I didn't buy them to smell them. The boots looked completely unworn. No creasing at all. There were a few small scuffs on them, but nothing that I hadn't been able to see in the photos. The boots were packed with all of the usual Parkhurst goodies: card from Andrew, boot bags and spare laces. The overall finish is typical Parkhurst and is done to a high standard. Leather is great, stitching looks good, welt join is pretty good for Parkhurst (but not entirely clean and would probably be disappointing for Grant Stone). The colour is light and I'm really looking forward to how it ages. They came with the round laces: these are always a bit short for me so I swapped in some extra flat waxed cotton ones that I have for a better fit and I like the overall appearance. The toe cap stitching seems just a bit wonky in the pics, but outside of a missed stitch on the right boot it looks good in person. The tongue is gusseted. There is a veg tan insole and heel stack. The counter also has a piece of veg tan to stiffen it. The welt is wheeled and I love the overall impressions.
Fit and first wear: I'm one of the people who did this all wrong. My Brannock is 10.5 on my left (larger) foot using HTT. I didn't understand HTB and that's an 11 on my left foot. I have loved my other Parkhursts in size 10, although my one pair of Grant Stone Cap Toes in a 10 is really tight on my instep. But, I really liked the extra space in this boot. It feels like a lot of extra space, but is snug in the heel and side of my foot. And this is the most comfortable boot I've ever put on my foot. It feels almost like a slipper. The leather is pliable and supple and the footbed was immediately comfortable. There was no break in at all (which is very different than my experience with the Smooth Browns). I wore them around the house for an hour to make sure that they fit and then wore them to work for 10 hours the next day. They were immediately comfortable...except for a bit of bite where one of the boot overlaps with one of the tongues. My understanding from correspondence with the Parkhurst owner, Andrew, is that they've used a thinner helped to make the inside of the boot feel like sliding a slipper on vs the 602 that is a bit more rugged.
Early wear: I've had these for about a week. The early wear is amazing. They scuff easily, but there is no creasing, just rolling on the vamp. I'm really excited about how this progresses.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Space for 1 more participant left on this Crockett & Jones GMTO for a Skye in Dark Brown Shell Cordovan on ridgeway soles. This GMTO has reached five participants and requires 1 more participant to proceed to production.
It is priced at £1150 (inc. VAT) for customers in UK and £958 (exc. VAT) for customers outside of UK. For more information and photos of the planned GMTO, please visit SF on:
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/quintessential-crockett-jones-thread-reviews-quality-etc.227575/post-11970035
If you are interested in this GMTO, please get in touch with the GMTO manager directly at Crockett and Jones to arrange for yourself to be included - Email: 77JermynStreet@crockettandjones.co.uk ; Phone: +44 207 9762684
Photo Source: https://fromsqualortoballer.com/review-crockett-jones-skye/
Hello GYW, it's Monday Funday! Take a load off and take a breather. Memes, hot takes and all silliness are welcome!
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Take a look back at the posts from this month. Did you have any favorites? Discussions you particularly enjoyed or missed out on? Use this thread to praise folks who create the content we all love, revisit thoughts you had earlier, and shoes you loved.
Formerly the Sidebar Picture Nomination thread, we're trialing this new style of just a look-back on all threads, pictures, etc. If you have ideas for other recurring threads please message the mods.
This thread is posted every 4 weeks on Monday at 12PM EST.
"This thread was posted by Blake the AutoMod, if I screwed up please contact the mods."
Found an amazing deal on a pair of shoes but they aren't your size? Share them here so other members can take advantage of the great deals!
"This is a scheduled mod post, if I screwed up please contact the mods."
Album 🖼️📚: https://imgur.com/a/ss-x-wesco-axe-breaker-horsehide-boots-12KygKk
Photos aren't that good. I had errands to do and been busy but I remembered to take some pics before going out to do whatever I need to do today.
Sizing 📏: 8E and my bannock size is 8D.
They fit well. There's no slip, it's just right. There's like half an inch of room. Just perfect after my feet swell up from dancing it still comfy.
Some arch support.
Leather 🏾🐴🍑: Horween CXL horsehide. At least I believe so, the old description was that if they run out they will use Maryam's.
It's sleek. Just dark and different. Shiny when first starting out but now there's only slight patches where it's shiny. I cleaned it with water and conditioned it recently. Was sad that the brown patina from the creases were somewhat dull. After sitting there for a week the teacore were pronounce again [1][2][3][4][5].
The Sole ☀️👟:
Okay so this is my first expensive boots that I ordered and waited. Sole I had nothing really to compare it to other than a Taft boot, Allen Edmond dress shoes, Red wings Iron Rangers and Red wings Moc Toe.
The right boot sole was not completely glued. I didn't think anything of it because I wasn't sure if this was normal or not. Eventually grass got in during dancing at an EDM festival (hard summer iirc). I still didn't think much. Eventually it ripped after many night club dancing and comparing it to my Nick's boots I realized it was defective [1][2].
I didn't want to turn it back because it's been too long and I'm unwilling to wait for another close to 2 years for these boots.
The sole is good though other than the right book not completely glue thing. It's not as aggressive and it haven't worn out yet [1][2][3]. I still believe nitrate sole on my Red Wing's Iron Ranger will outlast me though.
The hardware 🛠️:
The speed hooks are one of the best [1]. Up there with Nicks and Rolling Dub Trio.
Grant stones had some weak ones that bend. Both of my grant stone boots speed hooks are jacked.
RW speed hooks are mid tier imo.
Review ✏️:
Got the tracking number on May 3rd, 2022. I don't recall when it got delivered.
Throughout the whole time Mari from Standard and Strange hit me up because it's taking longer than anticipated. She kindly gave me a discount. I don't recall how much. She was super awesome.
I got a few compliment from them.
They were well with taper jeans.
I use them to dance at night clubs and edm festivals. Or going out day and about. Those high heels in night clubs can't bust my toe off with these.
I really dig the fold here [1][2]. I got these through dancing.
The counters are like slowly overall getting brown (or tea color) [1].
The fold developing here is probably me jumping up and down from edm music [1].
The original shoe laces were dry, eventually it got torn off while tying my boots so I bought new ones from Amazon.
Alright that's all I got for my ted talk and I'm not a good at this. Peace 🕊️ (I hope this is a dove..).