/r/goodyearwelt
The place to discuss high-quality footwear!
Welcome to goodyearwelt!
The subreddit about quality footwear. Dedicated to informing, teaching, and sharing. Topics include a wide range of brands from Crockett & Jones to Guidi. New product releases, daily discussion and community building with a common interest in quality footwear.
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Last Modified: May 11, 2015
Sidebar Image Source: shibooee's pair of Østmo boots made by /u/Sulucniv
Header Image Source: Louis D.
/r/goodyearwelt
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First post here ! English isn't my first language so feel free to correct me if I get the vocabulary wrong ! Caulaincourt is a french shoemaker created in 2008 . They make a wide variety of shoes with some pretty unique models and aesthetics . I managed to snag a pair of classic chukkas a year ago when they were at an attractive discount (it was the last pair left and at a size 6 it was a bit too tight for me but I still wear them from time to time) and had been looking to get another pair of theirs for a little while . In particular , this pair of boots had been tempting me since the moment I saw them . The weather was also getting chilly with nary a fur-lined pair to find in my collection . So this black Friday I decided to jump the gun !
In general I dislike grainy leather and much prefer smooth leathers because I find them to highlight the silhouette of a well made shoe , but this pair in particular managed to pull me out of my comfort zone . On a dainite sole with 360 goodyear stitch , the vamp , tongue and heel are made of chocolate brown calf (rusticalf from Du Puy tannery but I'm not 100% sure) while the shaft is dark brown grained deer leather . The latter brings a lot of suppleness to the boot , especially when considering it's a pretty tall boot compared to what I'm used to . While some high rise boots can feel a bit rigid when walking up stairs because your heels bend at a sharp angle and the shaft needs to follow through, these feel surprisingly flexible with none of that restrictive feeling while still being held quite snugly around the leg . It is lined with rabbit fur which I was told is warmer than merino wool lining . Though the weather hasn't gotten cold enough yet for me to confirm that , it is otherwise very soft and comfortable . A small detail which I particularly enjoy : the buckles are attached to the upper via an small elastic band . So far I've only seen this on some pairs of carmina though I assume many shoemakers probably do the same . It's not visible when the buckle is fastened but the elasticity that it makes fastening the buckle much easier than when they are directly sewn in the upper/quarters or linked via a piece of leather : you can pull on it for a couple extra millimeters to fit that pin in the right hole . I find that it essentially turns monks into "elastic shoes" in which you can adjust the tension of the elastic with the buckle . It might not be to everyone's liking but I think it makes monk shoes and boots really comfortable , at least from the point of view of someone who likes his shoes with a slight tightness .
I've worn them a couple times and so far they're definitely poised to become a winter favorite . I'll update this when I've worn them a bit more to see how well they stand the test of time .
I don't see multi-leather boots very often , but this pair proves that it can add a lot of comfort and functionality while still looking really good (imo) .
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White’s (Baker’s) Bounty Hunter in Brown Dress - ~4yr update
My Bounty Hunters were looking super due for a conditioning so I did so and you can see the story of the result in the photos.
I originally purchased these boots from Baker's in early 2021. Due to some weirdness in my right foot and ankle, I had to send them back for adjustments multiple times. Additionally later that year they started to develop a squeak under the ball of the foot and I had to have them totally rebuilt. So they'd been around the block a bunch before I even really started wearing them in earnest.
The brown dress leather has a vintage/classic look and as it wears it starts to give me almost Norman Rockwell vibes, which I dig - even though the boot build is of a big clunky zombie stomper. I can pretty much smash and crash my way through anything in these. They feel invincible on my feet and solid enough to kick over a train car.
The left boot has taken one big non-superficial nick to the leather on the outer side of the heel. I don't remember how this happened, but I notice it every time I'm cleaning dirt off the boots. The heel counter is so thick and tough that it doesn't seem anywhere close to actually breaching it. Almost looks like it took a hit from the edge of a hatchet or something. (Most visible in second to last photo)
They've been used every fall/winter for basically everything: daily casual wear, plenty of hiking, farm and yard work, wearing in the snow, and sploshing through standing water in my garage and basement in runoff from two separate hurricanes, most recently Helene which left them on the dried-out side.
In the photos you can see the boot before and after I wiped it down, then after conditioning with Bick as it dries in the sun, then after giving them a brush and re-lacing.
I’ll be four years in on these in February and I don’t even see a resole becoming necessary anytime soon. These were built with the double-trim on the welt. I've gotten the impression that upon resole or rebuild, White's will typically trim this down to a single-trim, leaving a slightly smaller footprint around the edge of the boot. I'll probably also go with something with a little less of a "hard/clicky" surface than the Vibram 430. The boots are really loud when walking around indoors, partially just because of their weight, but the clicky sound of the 430 exacerbates it.
Hello GYW, it's Monday Funday! Take a load off and take a breather. Memes, hot takes and all silliness are welcome!
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Found an amazing deal on a pair of shoes but they aren't your size? Share them here so other members can take advantage of the great deals!
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Hey Y'all!
I purchased my Red Wing 8138 boots from Nordstrom Rack back in December of 2015. This pair of boots were purchased as seconds for $155 out the door. I was looking for a pair of boots with a wedge sole to wear in a concrete studio. I purchased these shoes for a particular job that I was working long term. I'm not a huge fan of the aesthetic of a wedge sole. However with working 10-12 hours a day for a pretty long period of time on a concrete studio floor I wanted something a bit softer than say Vibram 430.
Purchase- These were purchased from Nordstrom Rack. At the time they had an amazing selection of 2nds.
Quality- This pair is supposed to be 2nds. I have never found anything wrong with these boots.
Break In- This is the easiest pair of good year welted shoes I have ever broken in. There was no break in period. They have been comfortable from day 1.
Wear- Like I said at the start I purchased these shoes for a particular job. They performed great in that setting. I work them for 1-2 years a couple times a week for the duration of that job. For the last several years I have not worn them a ton. I tend to wear them more in the winter than other times of the year.
Patina- these have patinated really well. They have some excellent highlights and lowlights. The leather has worn and held up really well. There is a small cut in one of the boots. Not sure what I was doing when that happened.
Shoe trees- I have shoe trees for these boots, but I rarely use them.
Size- I am a 9.5D brannock. I purchased these boots in a 9D. The fit is excellent.
Cleaning and conditioning- I currently use Lexol to clean and condition these boots. It is a nice light conditioner.
General thoughts- These are great boots, but I don't find myself wearing them that often. I find that I prefer to wear my White's Semi Dress, Alden Indy, or RM William's Gardner boot much more. I know the moc-toe on these is pretty classic, but I prefer the look of the moc-toe on the Indy boot much more.
Here are some photos!
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Buy, sell, and trade your shoes.
#Rules
#Recommended Posting Format
Please be a communicative buyer or seller. There's nothing more painful than having someone drop off the face of the earth without leaving some sort of note. Good hunting!
Please report listings that violate the rules above.
"This is a scheduled post, if I screwed up please contact the mods."
Pictured are a pair of NOS Allen Edmonds shell Cordovan derbys that by all written history doesn’t, in fact, exist. That being the Allen Edmonds garnet (?) shell cordovan Milfred 9.5E with what appears to be double JR sole.
The insurgence of Covid and full time WFH lead me down a few different more useful in the moment rabbit holes including bourbon, espresso and golf.
While doing my regular eBay search for golf gear I decided to do a saved search for shell cordovan in my size. Sure enough I found a pair that appeared to be from the orthopedic line which would be great for wearing on long travel or conference days. I did a little bit of searching on the numbers listed on the inside of the shoe and wasn’t able to find any direct hits. The closest I was able to find was the Allen Edmonds Benton from the orthopedic line from 2014 which I was convinced I was receiving. The strange part is the catalog didn’t provide any options in cordovan leather, or double leather soles.
https://issuu.com/allenedmonds/docs/2014_ae_spring_catalog_retail/2?ff
After finding this page and a few glasses of bourbon, I made a quick offer of $180 and was shocked to see a quick “congrats on your purchase!” notification on my phone from eBay.
Upon arrival of the shoe, I was shocked to see not Benton on the sole, but Milford! My confusion still continues to this post as google has provided me no further information of this shoe existing. eBay Milford listings show a disturbing “church style” loafer that would make anyone’s grandfather gag.
According to this post I have dated these shoes to 2002, due to the Made in USA stamp which ended in 2005, logo used from 1989 to 2013, in addition to having a groove cut in the sole which began around 2001, but I have been wrong before.
https://www.reddit.com/r/allenedmonds/s/QK4kzIEmfI
Given no shoe box with sale, I may never find out the true origin of those shoes. But sometimes that makes these off the wall eBay purchases that much more fun.
As you can see by the listing photos, these shoes have likely not had conditioning in a while, if ever. I threw on 2 light coats of saphir cordovan cream and brushed until my arms gave out. Then I conditioned the inside with VSC. As you can see this TLC lead to a beautiful deep brown with a reddish underglow. The color really is beautiful and I am excited to see how these wear long term. The Allen Edmonds Hamilton loafers I previously owned had a gorgeous orange undertone. It really does show how captivating shell cordovan leather can be and why it is so popular. Especially in new old stock condition. It is almost sad that Alden applies such a strong coating to their shell cordovan giving it their famous deep eggplant hue. I would be shocked if my lhs loafers ever develop to a color both these and the Hamilton loafers had.
I have taken a picture of these shoes next to Allen Edmonds chili 5th ave’s to showcase the post conditioning color. These 5th aves were my intro into fine footwear and were purchased during a summer internship. They are 9 years old and were resoled by Bedos leatherworks approx 2 years ago.
One thing you will notice is the unmistakable quality of older Allen Edmonds shoes. The stitching per inch on the sole is very dense, something you will likely only find of high end shoemakers or best in class cobblers.
Another small find is on the insole you see a small square possible sticker remnant sitting over the Allen Edmonds logo. Perhaps this was a thrift store find, and win-win for both the seller and myself? Again, these guesses and unknown backstories are inherent with eBay purchases, no matter the item.
Bonus pics, the previously mentioned, purchased as NOS Hamilton shell cordovan loafers with bedos installed sole guard. These are long gone - I sold these during Covid because I had difficulty keeping the old shell hydrated but had provided me 2 years wear at a minimal cost. This ended up being far better deal and was certainly more fashionable than a disposable brand such as Cole Haan.
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I just got into focusing on nicer clothes and shoes this past year. I bought a pair of Iron Rangers a few months ago and wanted to take a step up with some slightly dressier pairs in some different colors. Parkhurst really appealed to me with its looks, wide variety of leathers, and quality build at a good value.
Ordering
I had initially ordered a pair of the Allens in the Black Stitchdown 618 model in size 10D, but Andrew ended up emailing me to let me know that due to a bunch of exchanges around the Black Friday deal, they were now out of most of the sizes in that model. I took that opportunity to get some recommendations on the sizing. He was very nice about it and offered to send me a pair of the Allen Stitchdown in a different color in size 10.5, as well as this pair in size 10 so I could check the fit, without worrying about charging me for the extra pair in advance.
Fit
My feet are slightly different sizes as well as being low volume and a bit between sizes, so I have always had a hard time getting shoes that fit well. I am a 10.5-11 C-D with narrow heels and low instep. My Iron Rangers are in size 10D and fit pretty well, but are a touch narrow near the bottom of my pinky toe area. I tried the Grant Stone Leo last in 10D and it was too narrow and too tight on my outside toes.
This pair feel great when I put them on. Plenty of room for my toes, and the width seems right on. The toe area actually feels roomier than I am used to, but as I have often been getting shoes that are too small, I think this is a good thing.
Feel
The first thing I noticed is that the leather on these boots, despite being veg tan, feels soft and supple. Unlike Grant Stone Diesels, these are not lined in the tongue and back quarters, and as a result, they are flexible right out of the box and feel great. There is a bit of cushioning to the insole of the heel, unlike Iron Rangers, so these are very comfortable to walk in, and it seems the break in will be easy. The Ridgeway sole didn’t slip at all when I was walking on wet painted concrete, so it seems to offer good grip. My one quibble would be that the sole is not perfectly flat, with the front of the heel slightly higher than the back which can feel a little odd sitting in a chair. Not a big deal, and I imagine this may disappear after break in.
Look
This pair has eyelets all the way up in black. The leather has a matte appearance, perhaps in part because it was processed “with a healthy amount of wax” per the website description. They have a 270° welt. The stitching details and construction all look great.
Overall
I am loving this pair so far. I think Parkhurst deserves a lot more attention, as they are right up there with Grant Stone for me. The 602M last works well for me, as it’s not too pointy, has plenty of width and room in the toe box without being too wide in the waist and heel. A beautiful, really solid feeling pair of boots. I am definitely going to buy other pairs of Parkhurst, and am excited to try my stitchdown pair in Bordeaux that I have already received.
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A Footwear Philosophy: Realigning Values: Function, Quality and Sustainability.
by Andrew Turriff
https://www.instagram.com/andrewturriff/?hl=en
The footwear world has become overly focused on aesthetics, and long entrenched industry tradition and convention, very often neglecting the functional needs of the human foot or the shoe's purpose as a tool. While contemporary footwear can be undeniably beautiful, it frequently prioritizes style over function, hindering natural foot movement and contributing to various foot problems which can contribute to further issues throughout the body and musculoskeletal system.
The mass production of disposable “fast fashion” footwear pollutes our planet and ignores the potential of footwear as a tool for enhancing our lives. We need to shift our focus to creating practical high quality footwear that is truly useful.
We can make footwear that compliments our modern active lifestyle. We can promote healthy feet and bodies by allowing space to spread out in our shoes to promote natural movement. We can also minimize our environmental impact by creating versatile footwear that lasts.
For millennia, footwear served as a simple, practical tool: a shield against harsh terrains and climates. The earliest known footwear was crafted from leather and plant materials, prioritizing function. These primordial shoes were typically minimal and flexible, designed to protect the foot and facilitate movement.
As civilizations evolved, so too did the purpose of footwear. Elite social classes began wearing decorative shoes as a status symbol, flaunting their wealth and power. The ancient Egyptians, as far back as 3500 BCE, adorned their feet with decorative, heeled footwear. Later in the 10th century CE, the Persian cavalry adopted heeled boots to help stay in their stirrups while riding—long before practical use of the heel for riding morphed into a fashion statement at the expense of practicality and function. Today, shoes continue to be symbols of status and wealth. Marketing campaigns encourage us to use footwear as a way to express ourselves and project a certain image, even if this comes at the cost of our comfort and health or at the expense of the shoe's functionality.
Beyond the fashion industry, even the sub-group of medical and podiatry footwear seems to increasingly prioritize form over function. Shoes marketed as "healthy" or "orthopaedic" often sacrifice fit, comfort, and natural foot movement for aesthetics.
During my five years working in a podiatry clinic making orthopaedic footwear, I observed a growing trend of fashion-focused footwear designs among the footwear intended for people with foot ailments. Brands would rely on marketing and “innovative technology” rather than conventional podiatry principles to sell their products. The result is a market filled with narrow, overly cushioned shoes that offer temporary relief but fail to address underlying foot issues or empower the wearer to heal their foot and overall physical health.
Performance athletic footwear also misses the practical mark. Big-name performance footwear boasts “industry-leading technology” that helps you get faster or stronger. And yet, it’s rare to see a performance shoe designed with the foot's natural shape or function in mind. This undervaluing of the foot's shape and function as a complex performance structure can lead to poor biomechanics and injury.
Furthermore, it is almost unheard of for a performance shoe to be made using durable, natural materials or a repairable method of construction. They produce throwaway products, in some cases designed to be worn for just one or two competitions.
On the other end of the footwear spectrum are shoes that were developed as a tool: work boots, hiking boots, and military boots. These are styles that I myself fell in love with. These shoes are often built using premium, durable, long-lasting materials and constructed using methods expressly designed to be repaired. Many of the styles were developed 100 years ago or more, and are still being made the same way. I love seeing traditional techniques meticulously recreated in beautiful modern interpretations of old workwear styles. While I value these traditions, they should not prevent us from building on the craft to create more footwear that is simply more practical for modern life.
One of the issues with heritage footwear is that our understanding of the human body has evolved. Conventional-style heritage workwear boots and shoes were developed as a tool. However, the old-fashioned way of making footwear—still championed and practiced by incredible hand-makers today—ultimately restricts the full potential of our feet and bodies. From a foot-functional perspective, these old styles were designed to protect but also hold the foot rigidly in place to alleviate the discomfort of a long day.
But we now know that feet do not perform at their best when rigidly encased. Your feet are at their best when they are free to splay and grip and stabilize. We now know that if we have strong feet, it helps our overall alignment and posture. Stronger, healthier feet are associated with better balance and strength throughout our entire body. Your feet can be strengthened. We can prepare our bodies better for a long day of work rather than perpetuating the need for overly supportive footwear.
Similar to the heritage work boot, beautifully crafted dress shoes can be amazingly made pieces of art. In terms of a dress shoe and the functionality of the foot, the overall construction often creates something lighter and more flexible than the workwear style boots and shoes. Unfortunately, they are still designed to keep the mid- and rear-foot rigid, and the elegant design of the lasts, while beautiful, is also incredibly stylized and impractical. Think about how you feel after wearing these shoes all day. They can be beautiful objects, but they do not prioritize comfort or human function.
Not only has our understanding of the body and our feet changed, but our lifestyles have as well, and continue to change constantly. We need versatile footwear for our varied lives. Modern consumerism would have us believe that we need 15 pairs of niche footwear. It’s ok to have a few pairs of shoes—in fact letting the materials rest and dry out naturally in between wears will help extend their life. What we need, though, is a few pairs of practical, useful footwear that can come with us wherever our lives take us.
I have become personally interested in the area of “barefoot” footwear and consider this area to have the most potential to create functional, useful shoes. As a consumer I moved through various segments of the footwear industry before settling on barefoot shoes. The most significant contribution barefoot footwear has made to my life is a heightened awareness of my gait, and the impact I was placing on my joints. Rather than use my muscles for support and cushion, I was relying on my shoes and joints to take a lot of my daily impact. This left me feeling stiff and brittle. Barefoot footwear has revitalized my movement, showing me the need to strengthen my intrinsic muscles. Along with smarter training, moving to barefoot-style footwear has restored fluidity and mobility to my life.
Barefoot shoes seem to finally prioritize function. However, like other segments of the footwear world, barefoot shoes are still most often constructed with cost effectiveness in mind. They are generally made using synthetic materials and mass production techniques. These synthetic materials don't move naturally with our bodies. They trap moisture and sweat, and are prone to premature wear and tear. Natural materials offer superior breathability, durability, and comfort. I urge barefoot shoe creators to prioritize natural materials. Given their simplistic design, barefoot shoes have the potential for exceptional durability and longevity. Using synthetic materials for the uppers compromises this potential lifespan. While this might not be the most profitable business model, prioritizing longevity may contribute to a more sustainable future.
I also encourage barefoot shoe creators to avoid fear-mongering tactics to attract customers. Instead of scaring people into the barefoot lifestyle, we should focus on showcasing the positive outcomes of proper foot function. By demonstrating how patience and training can restore strength and mobility, we can empower individuals to take control of their body's movement and well-being. The human body is an incredible tool, capable of remarkable feats with the right training and discipline.
It's time to reclaim the purpose, functionality, and comfort of footwear. Footwear should enhance our natural movement. I believe we do not need to forego beautiful aesthetics in this quest—however, this alone cannot be prioritized above the primary purpose of footwear to facilitate natural movement.
Footwear should be versatile and adaptive to our ever-changing world and our ever-changing lifestyle. It should be made from real, natural materials that last and move well with your feet. It should be made in a way that can be repaired. By prioritizing function, comfort, materials, sustainability and versatility, shoes can truly be a functional, beautiful tool that enhances our lives and allows us to move freely and comfortably, without compromise.
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Buy, sell, and trade your shoes.
#Rules
#Recommended Posting Format
Please be a communicative buyer or seller. There's nothing more painful than having someone drop off the face of the earth without leaving some sort of note. Good hunting!
Please report listings that violate the rules above.
"This is a scheduled post, if I screwed up please contact the mods."
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.
Introduction
I noticed Diemme boots quite a while ago because, in my opinion, they are the only proper hiking boots that look beautiful to my eye. The colour combinations, different materials, ample rubberization, and Goodyear welt all suggest a high build quality. After many winters stomping on wet snow, dealing with occasional water leakage, and not wanting to ruin my non-winter leather shoes, I decided to finally get myself a pair of Diemme boots.
Review
I purchased these boots in December 2021 directly from Diemme's web store. Previously, I found a Roccia pair on another web store, but they were the wrong size, so I had to return them. (I took a chance, even though I kind of knew they were probably the wrong size.) Later, I saw this all-grey colour combo of the Everest boots in their newsletter, and I decided to pull the trigger.
Imgur photos - LINK.
The quality of these boots is impeccable. This time, the size was correct, and their sizing is true to size. I wore them a couple of times around the house only (since I was living in the Netherlands at the time), and wearing them outside during a Dutch winter seemed like overkill.
I finally took them for a hike around the Plitvička Jezera National Park in Croatia last winter, trekking through a gorgeous winter fairy tale. They were a bit snug with my Lorpen hiking socks, but I didn’t experience any blisters or major discomfort. The only issue was with my left pinky toe, but that’s due to it being slightly bigger than normal after a fracture — it happens with my other shoes too (initially).
The only downside of this particular pair is that they aren’t meant to be worn indoors much, unless you can completely resist the heat retention. I can’t, so I ended up taking them off during my car ride back home.
Conclusion
Due to a lifestyle change and not hiking as much as I used to, these boots have been sitting in the closet most of the time since I purchased them.
Other than that — great boots, high-quality, comfortable, very sturdy and warm, but best suited for winter hikes and winter-like environments.
Hello GYW, it's Monday Funday! Take a load off and take a breather. Memes, hot takes and all silliness are welcome!
Ask your shoe related questions.
Include images to any issues you may be having. Include a budget for any recommendations. The more detail you provide, the easier it may be for someone to answer your question.