Hello folks, I'm planning to assemble my first FPV drone. This is my shopping list. Since I have a trip to China soon, where I can get all these parts cheaper, so I presented the price as price in the EU in EUR/price in China in CNY.

As you can see, all these part will take me about 1600€/8300¥, which has succeeded my budget 1100€. I'd like to know how you guys save money from parts, like where can I get a cheaper FPV goggles fits the DJI air unit? Thank you in advance! I also appreciate every suggestion about alternative parts for better performance :)

What do yo uthink about the correlation between Pitch/yaw/roll?

Should the yaw+roll be the same, say? Or should Pitch and roll be the same, but yaw lower?

What patterns like above of rate setup have you found to be beneficial, and which ones detrimental?

I live near an airport but have a 100 acres i wod likentonfly my drone. What racing drone can I get that doesn't require me to get authorization first? I have a Mavic and it is a pain that I can't just fly right away and have to jump through hoops to fly. If I build a racing drone or whoop do I need to get permission? What flight controller do younsuggest if I am building a drone?

Been away from drone racing for about 11 years. Got in really early. Not sure how my Skyzone goggles are holding up now. What fpv goggles do you suggest as I look for black friday deals. Fatsharks still on top? Looking to get a tiny whoop or cinawhoop with some outdoor racing options later.

Hello, I have exceeded my budget according to my calculations, if anyone has a leftover part could they please give it to me? That would be very, very nice.

I've tried DVR Simulator, and FPVFreerider, Freerider being the superior training platform. Do you suggest I check out other sims? I've already saved myself $10,000 in otherwise crashed quadcopters learning Acro flight and rates over 800°/sec. (If I can fly with a 18 year old Xbox 360 remote with stick drift, massive inside dead zone, and the offset joysticks LOL....)

What do you think of stick extenders? Have you tried them?

I’m working on a prospects project in my high school business class and I need an issue to solve. I figured, what better than something FPV related?

One example I thought of is how many people don’t want to get into FPV because they just can’t stand wearing goggles. What if there was some sort of helmet, like a “tactical” bump helmet with NODs, only instead of NODS you have flip down goggles? That way you can store extra batteries as counterweights, too. I’m also considering some sort of “tight space inspection” business, where I fly a small whoop of some kind into tight spaces like attics, crawl spaces, or between walls to help people get an extra set of eyes somewhere you would normally have to tear something out or become a contortionist to get to.

I’m new to the hobby and I recently acquired a bunch of second hand parts from a friend. Included was this frame and mounted motors. The rear motors are inverted and there is a custom bracket angling the rear arms. Is this a common practice? I’m having trouble identifying why this is done so and if there is a name for this style. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi guys. Yet another newbie question. I’ve had another commercial drone in the past (Parrot, not fpv), and I already have around 15 hours in the simulator. I feel like I’m ready for the real thing. I have the Radiomaster Pocket ELRS and would like to fly both inside and outside (if there’s no wind). Regarding goggles, my idea is to buy the Eachine EV800DM, but I can’t decide on the drone. Could you please give me some guidance? Which one of these two should I pick?

Thanks in advance for any help or comments you can offer.

Does anyone know of any interesting flying spots / abandoned buildings or racing clubs within the south east of England? My usual flying spots have gotten a little dry and I want to expand my horizons. I also started a subreddit called r/UKFPVMeets for any interested pilots who want to find other pilots since I haven't seen any groups on reddit for this purpose.

Is it possible to build a long range walksnail drone with all inclusive for 600€? Means with googles and all

I'm basically undecided between the betafpv air65 and air75. I'm not sure if I will fly more inside or outside yet, so what are the other advantages of the 65mm? Im interested in racing but I won't participate in any formal racing that may limit the size, and I also want flexibility to do freestyle in case I give up on racing. Will it have any advantage on that? Otherwise the 75mm just seems better at everything but less furniture crashing.

Also, if I choose a 75mm, how much the battery weight impacts the flight? I was going to just buy the highest GNB battery out there (I saw a 660mah with 15.5g). And is the output power even fully used by a tinywhoop (i.e. 90C vs 100C)

Hi all, looking to buy my first setup. I'm pretty set of getting the radiomaster pocket but have a question. I plan on doing long range down the line. I've heard someone say that if I wanna get an external module then I should get the cc version of the radio. If I get the elrs version can I still add a 1w or 2w elrs module later on or would it not work?

Also should I put in my order tomorrow or wait for black Friday deals (does get fpv or rdq even do black Friday sales?

Hello folks, new to FPV flying. I stumbled on micro FPV searching for DJI Neo reviews on YT. Looking for advice from those who have some experience. I'm interested in flying mostly indoors for now, but I would still like a versatile kit incase I ever want to fly outdoors or upgrade stuff. I spent some time researching on ChatGPT and watching FPV creators on YT.

Seems I will go for the 65, 75, or 85mm size drone. I'm not sure if I would go above because ultimately I want the speed to be fast and the weight to be sub 250g. And usually in everything I buy, I try to go for the best bang for the buck, meaning not cheap or expensive, but still provides good quality.

I've narrowed down my options by category. My overall budget I would like to be about $500 but I don't mind holding off a month or so to save up money if there's something with better quality and more features. But I'm not sure if I would be willing to spend a lot more considering I don't know much about drone technology.

Anyway, I will likely go for ELRS radio control, only because it was a reoccurring recommendation in the stuff I've watched and read, but I don't know much else about that.

Let me know what you think of these parts and what you would mix and match or other parts you'd recommend. And if I'm not mistaken, I just have to make sure the Drone and Controller are both ELRS if I go that route? Or do goggles also need a certain connection? Not sure how all that links up.

Drone options based on fast motors, cam quality and reviews:

1. Mobula6 Freestyle HD BNF 65mm (this has the best cam I've seen with the HDzero Lux and 28k kv motor but pricey at $200)

2. Mobula6 Race HD BNF 65mm (same as above but no widescreen cam)

3. BetaFPV Air75 1S 75mm Analog (Much cheaper at $100 and pretty good motor at 23k kv. But lower cam quality, still seems good)

4. Mobula6 2024 1S 65mm ($115 and has 28k kv motor, not sure if this is analog cam)

5. Mobula8 2S Digital HD FPV (cam looks great on this, motors seem less at 11k kv but at 2S maybe that means double that, pricey at $240)

6. Beta FPV Meteor65 Pro 1S ($110, 20k kv motor)

Controller Options (I like the style of gaming style controllers but would consider others):

1. Radiomaster Boxer ($160)

2. iFlight Commando 8 ($143)

3. Radiomaster Zorro ($117)

4. BetaFPV LiteRadio 3 Pro ($95)

5. Radiomaster Pocket ($65)

Goggles options (looking for sleek, light, comfortable and good quality):

Unfortunately these are really pricey for the style I like, but perhaps I could score a good deal on eBay or maybe I should just settle for some cheap goggles around $100.

1. Eachine EV200D ($350)

2. Fat Shark Dominator ($380)

My thinking is I could go for either the Mobula 6 Freestyle or Mobula 8 2S because I really like their cam quality, then get the RM Pocket, so far would be about $280-300ish. Now if I could score a good deal on some sleek goggles

Lastly a few questions:

1. How far can these things go with stock parts and is it extendable based on controller and drone antennas? So should I be picking controllers and drones that can be modded? Most of the controllers seemed to say 2KM distance

2. How to know which of these come with the telemetry info in the camera?

3. Do these things really fly for only a few minutes? Maybe with a battery pack of 6 I could about a 30min session?

I have a brand new vtx and a brand new rapid fire module both with great antennas it worked great for a week then randomly one day I just had zero reception on any channels I'm lost I don't know what to do please help

Im flying with 6s batteries currently on a 5 inch freestyle build, but i find it a bit too fast, im using the FIVE33 2207 CHAMPIONS EDITION MOTORS - 2070KV

i wanted to see if i could lower the performance/speed to replicate flying with a 4s. As i believe it flies a bit more smooth/slow. (Havent flown with one yet bcs i dont want to buy one if this is possible)

And i thought it would be great for the motors too, so they wont burn out as fast.

If im wrong please correct me! Thanks.

For a while now im looking to buy more of these since i still think its the best analog vtx for racing and im still not down to invest 1500 Bucks in HDzero. All the shop pages i checked dont have them in stock anymore since half a year or so.

Edit: Have to add i live in europe.

https://preview.redd.it/lvg2fa4yzmxd1.jpg?width=1620&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e36f0005980c2a23d5a5caffb81aedab0997f0b0

Hey everyone, if for some reason you have nothing better to do than read a random story from the internet, let me explain why I have all these four radios here, while only wanted one.

Originally, I had only one radio: the Jumper T-Lite on the top right. It’s a small, Xbox-style controller, ergonomically ideal for a beginner. (Well, actually, the first one was a standard radio from Emax, which was complete junk, so I don’t even count it as a real radio.) Anyway, although the Jumper T-Lite looked great, it had a habit of randomly bricking. It would completely shut off, unable to turn on or give any signal of life. To revive it, I’d have to disassemble it, swap the internal button battery, and eventually, it would resurrect—until one day in Bali, when it just didn’t respond to my commands, causing my Flywoo CineRace20 drone to dive straight into a rice field. I initially thought it was my own mistake and didn’t consider the possibility of it being a radio issue.

Later, I got another drone, a GEPRC Smart 35. While diving down a skyscraper in Bogotá at a pretty respectable speed, it plummeted straight into the asphalt and completely broke. That day, I still didn’t think it was a radio issue; I assumed it might be interference or something wrong with the drone itself. After I rebuilt it, the drone got lost again on a Hollywood hill, this time for good. Finally, it clicked—I realized that maybe my poor flying wasn’t the only problem. Could it be that my radio was faulty all along?

So, for my next drone, the Mobula 8 O3, I got the Radiomaster Pocket, similar to the one I have on the left. What struck me about it was how incredibly light it was and also cheap. However, unlike the T-Lite, it didn’t have metal switches but rather cheap plastic buttons. Not a big deal, right? Actually, yes. There was a minor but annoying issue: when you arm or disarm it, this push button doesn’t precisely work as an on/off switch. When pressing it off, there’s a split second where it turns off, then back on (and while doing this, you naturally tilt the radio a bit, making the throttle jump up slightly). It didn’t feel safe to me.

This wasn’t a major problem for the Mobula 8 2S due to its prop guards, but I was planning to buy bigger and more powerful drones, and I knew this would likely cause problems eventually. In fact, my previous GEPRC drone, the one resting on a random slope in the Hollywood hills, nearly cut my finger off one day. Long story short, I decided to move the arm button from the push button to a 3-position switch on channel 3. Everything worked well for several flights until, one morning, when I was about to land and instinctively switched modes from acro to angle, I realized my muscle memory betrayed me, and I lost my little companion in the rice fields—ironically, only 300 meters from where I had crashed the previous drone two years prior. These rice fields in Ubud are stunningly beautiful but a nightmare to search through. Without a buzzer, it was a hopeless case, and I was never able to find it.

In my frustration, I threw the radio on the ground, where it completely disintegrated beyond repair. After some time, when I had completely lost hope, I decided to get a radio with metal switches again. Naturally, I had only two options: the Radiomaster Zorro and the Jumper T20. Both are praised for ergonomics, but the Zorro has complaints about its small battery capacity, while the T20 has large slots for two 21700 batteries with a 1W ELRS transceiver. I watched a couple of reviews and found only one video where the author showed both radios on the screen together. In addition, it also included the Radiomaster Pocket, and they looked similarly sized. I even asked ChatGPT for specs to compare, and according to it, they were about the same size. I was surprised by how enormous the T20 actually was when I finally received it—bigger than a penguin! And it was heavy, especially compared to my last memory of the light and tiny Pocket radio.

Naturally, I wanted to return the T20 and get another Pocket instead, but the problem was I’d bought the T20 from outside of Amazon, where I usually order things, and returning it wasn’t as straightforward. One thing led to another, and I decided to order another Pocket from Amazon to compare the two directly and return the one I liked less. Unfortunately, I had to travel to another city and wasn’t able to return the T20 on time. What’s more, I have the T20S, which costs a premium—about twice as much as the Pocket radio.

When I got the orange Pocket, I realized my memory had betrayed me. Sure, it’s smaller, but not nearly as much as I remembered! All that worry for nothing! So glad that amazon has amazing return policy.

And the last radio is from my DJI Mini 3 Pro. DJI seems to love producing mutually incompatible radios, so I’m at least lucky to have only one. I plan to return the orange Pocket, keep the T-Lite for spare parts, and hope I won’t regret holding onto the T20S. And no, I don’t have autism.