https://preview.redd.it/lvg2fa4yzmxd1.jpg?width=1620&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e36f0005980c2a23d5a5caffb81aedab0997f0b0

Hey everyone, if for some reason you have nothing better to do than read a random story from the internet, let me explain why I have all these four radios here, while only wanted one.

Originally, I had only one radio: the Jumper T-Lite on the top right. It’s a small, Xbox-style controller, ergonomically ideal for a beginner. (Well, actually, the first one was a standard radio from Emax, which was complete junk, so I don’t even count it as a real radio.) Anyway, although the Jumper T-Lite looked great, it had a habit of randomly bricking. It would completely shut off, unable to turn on or give any signal of life. To revive it, I’d have to disassemble it, swap the internal button battery, and eventually, it would resurrect—until one day in Bali, when it just didn’t respond to my commands, causing my Flywoo CineRace20 drone to dive straight into a rice field. I initially thought it was my own mistake and didn’t consider the possibility of it being a radio issue.

Later, I got another drone, a GEPRC Smart 35. While diving down a skyscraper in Bogotá at a pretty respectable speed, it plummeted straight into the asphalt and completely broke. That day, I still didn’t think it was a radio issue; I assumed it might be interference or something wrong with the drone itself. After I rebuilt it, the drone got lost again on a Hollywood hill, this time for good. Finally, it clicked—I realized that maybe my poor flying wasn’t the only problem. Could it be that my radio was faulty all along?

So, for my next drone, the Mobula 8 O3, I got the Radiomaster Pocket, similar to the one I have on the left. What struck me about it was how incredibly light it was and also cheap. However, unlike the T-Lite, it didn’t have metal switches but rather cheap plastic buttons. Not a big deal, right? Actually, yes. There was a minor but annoying issue: when you arm or disarm it, this push button doesn’t precisely work as an on/off switch. When pressing it off, there’s a split second where it turns off, then back on (and while doing this, you naturally tilt the radio a bit, making the throttle jump up slightly). It didn’t feel safe to me.

This wasn’t a major problem for the Mobula 8 2S due to its prop guards, but I was planning to buy bigger and more powerful drones, and I knew this would likely cause problems eventually. In fact, my previous GEPRC drone, the one resting on a random slope in the Hollywood hills, nearly cut my finger off one day. Long story short, I decided to move the arm button from the push button to a 3-position switch on channel 3. Everything worked well for several flights until, one morning, when I was about to land and instinctively switched modes from acro to angle, I realized my muscle memory betrayed me, and I lost my little companion in the rice fields—ironically, only 300 meters from where I had crashed the previous drone two years prior. These rice fields in Ubud are stunningly beautiful but a nightmare to search through. Without a buzzer, it was a hopeless case, and I was never able to find it.

In my frustration, I threw the radio on the ground, where it completely disintegrated beyond repair. After some time, when I had completely lost hope, I decided to get a radio with metal switches again. Naturally, I had only two options: the Radiomaster Zorro and the Jumper T20. Both are praised for ergonomics, but the Zorro has complaints about its small battery capacity, while the T20 has large slots for two 21700 batteries with a 1W ELRS transceiver. I watched a couple of reviews and found only one video where the author showed both radios on the screen together. In addition, it also included the Radiomaster Pocket, and they looked similarly sized. I even asked ChatGPT for specs to compare, and according to it, they were about the same size. I was surprised by how enormous the T20 actually was when I finally received it—bigger than a penguin! And it was heavy, especially compared to my last memory of the light and tiny Pocket radio.

Naturally, I wanted to return the T20 and get another Pocket instead, but the problem was I’d bought the T20 from outside of Amazon, where I usually order things, and returning it wasn’t as straightforward. One thing led to another, and I decided to order another Pocket from Amazon to compare the two directly and return the one I liked less. Unfortunately, I had to travel to another city and wasn’t able to return the T20 on time. What’s more, I have the T20S, which costs a premium—about twice as much as the Pocket radio.

When I got the orange Pocket, I realized my memory had betrayed me. Sure, it’s smaller, but not nearly as much as I remembered! All that worry for nothing! So glad that amazon has amazing return policy.

And the last radio is from my DJI Mini 3 Pro. DJI seems to love producing mutually incompatible radios, so I’m at least lucky to have only one. I plan to return the orange Pocket, keep the T-Lite for spare parts, and hope I won’t regret holding onto the T20S. And no, I don’t have autism.

3.5 Inch build:

Ummagawd Botgrinder Grinderino 3.5inch

https://pyrodrone.com/products/ummagawd-botgrinder-grinderino-3-5-freestyle-frame-kit

Skystars F722HD PRO Stack

https://pyrodrone.com/products/skystars-f722hd2020-flight-controller-km55-55a-esc

XNOVA T1804 FPV RACING SERIES MOTOR - 2800KV - 4PCS COMBO

https://pyrodrone.com/products/xnova-t1804-fpv-racing-series-motor-2800kv-4pcs-combo

Avan Scimitar 3.5x2.8x3 3528-3 (buy 5-7)

https://pyrodrone.com/products/avan-scimitar-3-5x2-8x3-3528-3-propeller-2cw-2ccw-red?variant=31054497808427

Caddax Ratel 2

https://pyrodrone.com/products/caddxfpv-ratel-2-starlight-low-latency-micro-size-freestyle-fpv-camera

T Motor FT-800

https://pyrodrone.com/products/t-motor-ft800-800mw-5-8ghz-37ch-adjustable-analog-vtx

Sequire ELRS Diversity Reciver

https://pyrodrone.com/collections/all-elrs/products/sequre-elrs-2-4ghz-dual-rx-true-diversity-dual-antenna-tcxo-high-refresh-rate-low-latency-receiver-w-ufl-antennas

TBS Stragh MMCX to SMA

https://pyrodrone.com/products/tbs-straight-mmcx-sma-extension-6cm

Foxieer 5.8 Lolipop

https://pyrodrone.com/products/foxeer-5-8g-lollipop-4-2-6dbi-omni-antenna-2pcs-sma-100mm-rhcp-choose-color?variant=39806515249195

Hota D6 PRO

https://pyrodrone.com/products/hota-d6-pro-charger-ac200w-dc650w-15a

Gaoneng GNB 650mAh 22.8V 6S (Buy 3)

https://pyrodrone.com/products/gaoneng-gnb-650mah-22-8v-6s-120c-hv-lipo-battery-xt30

Gaoneng GNB 930mAh 22.2V 6S 120C (Buy 2)

https://pyrodrone.com/products/gaoneng-gnb-930mah-22-2v-6s-120c-lipo-battery-xt30

Conformal Coating(Waterproofness)

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B085G42TGS/

Loctite

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085G42TGS/

Soldering Pump (For desoldering)

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

XT30 Pigtail (Buy 2 so I have an extra)

https://pyrodrone.com/products/xt30-pigtail-16awg-10cm

XT60 female to XT30 male adapter

https://pyrodrone.com/products/xt60-to-xt30-charge-adapter?variant=31948639895595

Ive got 4 4 and 5" quads and a couple tiny whoops I haven't flown in 6-7 years and looking to dig them out and get them flying again..

I'm looking for a budget friendly vtx (sub $100) or possibly an FC with vtx and probably upgrade (I run 4s so nothing crazy needed).. I'm interested in goggles too as I have some old fat shark attitudes and I'm sure anything will be better quality..

Or do I just need to strip them to the frames and update everything?

I'm just now looking to get into fpv drone flying and had a question about what types of goggles to get, preferably I'd like to do digital. Right now I'm looking into both the DJI 03 system with the goggles 3 and fatshark. I've just now started looking into this and any help would be appreciated!

officially it's built with 1404 motors but can I squeeze in 1804 motors and a thicc aio (axisflying argus with a heatsink is the aio in question) for 6s?

also is it 3 inch exclusively or does it take 3.5 props too?

i want to build a lap timer with more than 1 channel for team practices and stuff and the only sensible option seems to be a rotorhazard or nuclearhazard which both require a raspberry pi, but i don't want to start messing around with those things, so does anyone know any code for like an f7 or h7 chip that does a similar thing (laptimer with web interface, ofc with an additional wifi or ethernet module), surely f7 or h7 cpus have enough juice to run a web interface (also, i have a few FCs lying around with dead gyro chips or 3v3 regulation so i already have the cpus) or an esp32 based timer, those are cheeep af and with similar spec to f4/7 stm cpus

With a standard 3 blade prop what combination of kv/motor size/battery would produce the most thrust in a short 30s interval?

I have this Jumper Tlite v1 given to me by my buddy. Bought also the Jumper AION nano tx module for the transmitter. Somehow one 18650 battery isn't sufficient enough to power the module, sure the module turns on but it keeps boot looping. Only solution was to add additional power via type c connector from the module. Battery installed also. Since my elrs module voltage is 6-8.4v.

Can Jumper Tlite handle 2s? Anyone using the Tlite with elrs module, how did you manage to get it to work with 1s?

Also, Tlite works fine without the module. Just not sufficient enough to power the elrs module.

I purchased a new frame with M2 screw holes for the FC mounting, but the current FC & ESC stack that I have has M3 screw holes. What is the best way to mount this set up?

I need to use M2 screws, so are there rubber damper balls for M3 stacks with M2 screw holes?

Thanks in advance!

About 2 years ago my dad got me a newbee mockingbird v2 and it’s really cool but at the time I never had batteries for it but recently I picked some up and when I tried to pair it to my taranis qx7 it just beeps and the lights never change I have the channel order to aert or whatever the videos said but it never binds the mode is in d8 I can’t connect it to betaflight either someone please help me

Was near calico basin ( near las vegas ) a couple of days ago and passed by the local ama club. Chatted with a guy flying a fixed wing and he mentioned i can fly my quad there IF i had insurance. I get that they're in a club and they need to be insured.

Questions: anybody flying fpv purchase insurance? How much per year and is it worth it?

Hi there people from this reddit! I need your help.

My boyfriend wants to get into FPV but doesn't know which drone to get. He has a tiny whoop right now and wants to upgrade. Originally, he's a DJI guy and owns the mini 3 pro and the mavic 3, so he tends to the DJI Avata 2 but dislikes that it's throttled down to 58 km/h here in Germany. He does like the camera system of it though, as well as the control unit and is interested in the goggles 3, because they'll probably be compatible with the O4 camera.

The camera footage is definitely most important to him. He has lots of fun to edit footage with cutting software, that's why he's interested in cameras which can capture some sort of RAW footage, but they're expensive as hell :/ BUT he also likes to do little flips and stunts with his tiny whoop, which neither the Avata 2 nor the neo will be able to do.

He's electrical engineer, so he has no problem building a drone but he's conflicted which system/ set to get. As far as we could tell, there's no jack of all trades and now he's paralyzed of further action, so maybe y'all can help?