/r/firewater
/r/firewater is a community that encourages the respectful exchange of techniques, designs, recipes, and anything else related to beverage distillation. Before hitting submit, check that your content doesn't violate our rules below:
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UJSSM Whiskey step by step
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Cleaning
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Methanol and tails
Geotagging and EXIF data
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/r/firewater
Ok so every place I post asking for still build recommendations or if I should get this or that they either recommend a $700 or $5000 rig. That's a bit out of my budget. If you mention a cheap Chinese still people have an aneurysm.
Can anyone link me a build for a beginner that is stove top friendly say 5 to 8 gallons that comes in cheaper or with better features than the vevor setups for the same cash? I'm not really looking for reflux or anything fancy just a little pot still. Is it really a that bad of an idea to get the vevor still, run it a few times and either get a welded triclamp fitting or directly solder on an 1-2" diameter column about a foot tall and a foot long 1/2"x3/4" libeg.
I set up a vevor still this morning and it has 4 different ball valves. I don't understand what they are for. Can someone please explain this to me because I'm just starting this venture.
How do I get a more complete/dry ferment for a rum wash? There’s gotta be an additive like an enzyme that I can add to break down the complex/unfermentable sugars. Any advise is appreciated!
I’m fermenting off grain and I’m just blown away at how snotty this stuff is. It’s like it has a pedio infection or something! I assume this is pretty normal? Any tips to help fermentation along? Does that sliminess mess with anything? I’m about 20 hours into fermentation, so things are just kicking off.
When you run the still, how do you determine when to turn it off? I haven’t come up with a method yet. The longer you go you can continue to get lower and lower tails, but what is the factor you use to decide when it’s done?
Title
I'm in urgent need of a method of regulating the power on my 50L project still. However, complete units are way too expensive and shipping to Norway takes an age and costs an arm and a leg. I've found a power regulator in a brewing store, so far, but it is more expensive than my entire build, so I'd rather not.
I'm a mechanic with electrical experience, and I've welded my own column and shotgun condenser, and converted an old A316 fermenting vat to accept the heating element. I consider myself as an above average handyman, and I like the thought of doing this completely without having to buy any finished packages.
I want all-manual control since I have an analogue thermometer to monitor the process, and no easy way to convert to digital atm. I've got 16amp fuses on 230V, and a dedicated fuse for just this still, so the setup should be secure. The heater element is a brand new replacement part for a water heater, 230V, rated for 3kw. I'd rather not destroy this, it was not cheap.
What would happen if I used a regulator rated for, say 5000w, or if I used a smaller one (I suspect it might overheat and burn out?)
Would a larger one operate non-linearly due to the increased loads?
Bonus question, are there any regular or industrial appliances I can recycle for a suitable regulator. I've got access to a plentiful supply of E-waste, which has come in handy before.
I'm steadily gaining experience in this hobby. I have an 8 gallon keg pot still from Brewhaus and have several stripping runs and spirit runs under the belt. I have a few Badmos and Ten30s aging. I'm really enjoying it.
I'm well aware of the dangers using propane and have researched, re-researched, and cut no corners safety wise. I distill in my unheated garage with the door open about 2 feet. I've never had any issues,
as far as I'm aware!
A relative who used to distill said to me the other day there's no way he'd use propane. He used a Vevor on the stove.
This got me thinking of my process though. I think he's implying the dangers of the fumes igniting. I have my pot still dialed in well in my opinion, and don't push it to the point of vapor running by my condenser. I collect in jars and if there's any sign of condensation or vapor, I dial it back. Is there really that much vapor to be concerned about?
I'm more concerned of an acciendental spill and resulting ignition of 160 proof.
What are your thoughts?
I am new and just bought a VEVOR 70L 18.5Gal Water Alcohol Distiller 304 and was wondering what my next steps should be before I make a run of mash? I planned to scrub and clean it down with PBW before anything but I was wondering if there was another special cleaning I should do or a run I should make before a mash? Being all stainless steel, I thought PBW or iodine would be enough but what is everyone's thoughts before I waste a good mash?
Just received the 3" plated column with a dephlagmator and condenser as well as the water line kit for connecting the water supply to them. It appears to me that there were 2 supply line splitters and perhaps a needle valve - which I suppose would be for the supply to the dephlegmator. Why would you need 2 water line splitters?
Howdy all:
Several years ago, I bought a vitner's vacuum pump to de-gas my brews, (wine and other "still" stuff). After I proofed my latest Agave spirit with about a half liter of clarified wash of blue and blackberries and enough "Proud Source" alkaline spring water to bring it down to 40% ABV, I noticed "Tiny Bubbles" forming and persisting.
I figured it was the alkaline water reacting to the slightly acid fruit wash. So I let it sit for several days, and then hooked up the pump. Immediately it started "boiling" (like an naked astronaut's blood in the near vacuum of space). After an hour or so, the "boiling" subsided and I brought the spirit back to ground level, pressure wise! Now I just need to bottle it up. BTW, it is QUITE tasty!
It is my first time distilling wash containing a high pectin fruit. I am aware such concoctions can produce additional methanol. Though, I also hear that a lot of the most flavorful compounds in apples come off in the head. Love commercial apple liquor so I wanted to give it a try. I’d be thankful for any insight!
Recipe (5 gal) consists of crushed apples from the farmers market mixed with apple cider (also from the market). Properly sterilized. Brought up to specific gravity of 1.073 with cane sugar, treated with yeast nutrient, and inoculated with EC-1118 yeast.
Does anyone have tips on getting the most out of it? Also, should I take any additional precautions to ensure its safety? Thank!
I was gifted a Do Your Own Whiskey kit for Christmas by some friends. Im going to try one of the provided recipes but this is related to the experiment that I want to run.
Im going to try to theme one of my bottles on the Chocolate Oranges you can get around the holidays. My current plan is as follows:
Alcohol: Buffalo Trace - White Dog
Wood: Dark Chocolate (3-4 weeks)
Aromatics: Cocoa Beans, Orange peel (24 hours)
My question here is about the aromatics and the possibility of adding Vanilla. Do you think it would be a good addition? If so, what kind of vanilla should I be looking to get?
Also if any of you have done one of these kits before, I would love your recommendations! Thank you.
I have an 8 gallon still with a single 2000 watt element and currently have a 2 inch 4 section bubble plate. I've run it a couple times and am having some trouble balancing the plates (should have read more posts before buying). I only want to do a single or double plate distillation and was wondering if the 2000 watt element is enough power for the 8 gallon still to run a 4 inch plate (only 1-2 plates) since the still already has a 4 inch port. Thanks you for all your help!
Call me too eager but I started my first wash (mugi/kome shochu) almost a week after I ordered my still kit. They said 5-7 days lead time so I figured I had plenty of time to do my 2 week or so fermentation and also do my sacrificial/cleaning runs before it. 2 weeks later I still have zero ETA and the fermentations is winding down. It's too large for my fridge and it's around -15c for the next several days outside. There still seems to be some gassing when I stir it and some of the grain is rising to the top (gas bubbles in the cap) Def not a kreusen tho I think. I think I have a couple to a few days at most.
It would really suck to lose this. Any ideas? The most I've got going in is I have my little batch of birdwatchers started so I'm not waiting around for that to ferment out when it arrives and can do my sac run.
I know that the common wisdom on fermenting a mash is that it takes 7-12 days, but my question to all of you is what’s the longest a mash of yours has ever fermented? Anyone ever had greatly longer than 12 days?
Hey all! I just finished a batch of strawberry brandy, and I’m so pumped about how it turned out. Here’s the recipe I used, made even sweeter (literally) thanks to a killer deal I found on frozen strawberries:
Ingredients: • 8 lbs of frozen strawberries (they were on sale, so I went big!) • 8 lbs of sugar • 2 gallons of water • 1 packet of champagne yeast
I’ve been interested in distilling for a while and finally acquired this 5 gallon alembic copper still. I’ve been doing a lot of research but have some questions.
Heating Element: Been researching hot plates but the base of the alembic is ~10.5 inches. Most of the affordable ones are around 8” and even the slightly larger semi-commercial ones ($150-$300) have a weight limit of 15 pounds. Is my only option here a propane gas burner? How hard would it be to control temperature with gas. Would a diffuser plate help?
I’m mostly interested in rums. Specifically , Puerto Rican style “Pitorro” (Molasses rum). Is the best approach doing multiple stripping runs and then a spirit run when enough low wines have been distilled?
Any other tips for this type of still are welcome.
Thanks!
I have 1 successful run under my belt so still very very new, my last mash took about 9 days to fully ferment so I made another one (sugar, corn, water dady yeast) this one had more sugar than the last. This mash is already at the 11 day mark and definitely isn’t there yet. I leave to go to work for 3 weeks on Wednesday and I’m wondering if I should leave the mash and see if it’s still worth running when I get back or if I should just dump it out now? The mash is in 2 five gallon buckets with airlocks.
Thanks.
A few buddies and I were joshing in the groupchat the other day, and the idea came up to attempt to extract spirit from a used whiskey barrel using hot water. I’ve heard this colloquially called “swish.” We’ve identified a few options to source the barrels, but we are looking for some guidance on the process. Does anybody have reliable information on how this process works? And how much yield should we expect from a single barrel?
Say I wanted to create and isolate as much fusel alcohols as I could. What's my plan? Sugar wash fermented at high temps with some added protein powder? I've got a pot still so where are all the fusels going to end up? In the boiler? In the late tails? Do I start collecting late tails at like 10% ABV off the still and then try to chill the tails and pull off the fusel oils from the surface?
The idea would be to introduce these into my thumper to create more diverse esters for rum runs.
I've read people talk about avoiding 90 degree elbows in the plumbing, in favor of using two 45s to make a more gentle 90 angle.
Why is this? Does it make much difference?
Just got my copper alembic dome and it’s pretty grimy on the inside. I tried scrubbing it with rubbing alcohol but it didn’t help. Should I proceed with a vinegar and sac run? Is there a better way to get the manufacturing grime off before doing a cleaning run? Thanks Im new to this hobby.
I just ran a sacrificial run. The first liquid out the still was this vibrant blue color. Has anyone seen this before? Any idea what causes it?
I'm pretty tired of buying water from the store. I look like a psycho walking out with 35 gallons of water at a time. Is this a good alternative to save on water at the store, time and gas?