So a bit of back story with this one: the homeowner's fence fell down due to storm and the neighbor said "np I got some posts laying around I'll fix it!" he proceeds to concrete some decorative porch posts a foot onto her yard. She said that he moved the fence line in and he said "well my back can't take any more so that's where they're going". She finds out he doesn't even own his home, he rents. She had a hell of a time contacting the landlord. Finally she got through to somebody and they said they would be out to fix it. Three weeks later somebody comes out and drops off some "posts" and concrete (they're just gonna use the old panels) and didn't even begin working on it yet I guess because it's so close to the holidays. The "posts" they dropped off were actually just landscaping timbers for bordering. I get the call and do an estimate and she ends up going with my work. Tore all the weird stuff out and put steel posts, all new rails and pickets as well. It's crazy what people will try to bandaid and pass off as acceptable.

How would you recommend affixing a vinyl fence section between two solid concrete columns? Picture a series of stucco pillars with ~8ft of space between them. They are built on top a solid concrete footer at ground level (there is solid concrete all the way under where the fence will be).

I need vinyl fence sections in the blank space between them. If I install a vinyl fence post against each concrete pillar, I have no idea how I can attach the post and then get the rails and pickets in. If I put the rails and pickets in first, I have no idea how to then attach to the pillar. What am I missing?!

In case it’s not clear, I can’t bury the post, they will be sitting on concrete, I have to cut off like 3’ of each one.

Best image I can do is:

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Pillar, concrete, pillar, concrete, pillar.

I am replacing an old fence and building it all new. Initially, I wanted to go with all cedar except for the ground contact pressure treated pine. I got a sticker shock on the cedar rails and pickets at HD. So far, I am still with cedar (rails and pickets) I was looking at 2x8x8 ft cedar for the top runner for support and aesthetics. Those suckers are $30 a pop. I was thinking of going with a pressure treated 2x8x12 ft southern pine that is a lot cheaper. Is that a good thing to do or a definite no-no when everything else is cedar? Also, for the cedar pickets, I was thinking of 6 inch 6 ft flat top boards for a board on board. Now I am rethinking the expense and want to mix up 6 inch board with 3.5 inch board. Use the 6 inch boards on the bottom layer and the 3.5 inch on the top to cover the boards below giving it a board on board look. Is this doable or again a definite no-no? Thank you for your help.

I was digging holes for the posts and it seems the shovel went through this material. Some of it was coming from under the house.

I'm in Alabama and looking to build a fence in next spring. Does anyone know the best place to source 1" thickness, 6' x 6" wide western red cedar dog ear pickets? Big box has 5/8" which I'm not interested in. I'm not sure if I should be driving to some other part of the country to source these or special order item. I haven't really found any good website either. Any advice is welcome.

I am building a privacy fence by myself (or should I say replacing a broken and rotten fence) completely with steel poles and cedar pickets. One of the fence posts is a little shorter (about an inch or so) from the other fence post 7.5 ft away. The top horizontal support gives me a little leeway to in making it level on the top since I am putting a top runner for support and aesthetics. Since I am doing this myself it has been a challenge to level the top 2x4 brace. I tried to support it with quick grip clamps but it keeps falling off. Is there any trick to keep the horizontal brace level and make minor adjustments while trying to play with the height adjustment? Like something that crawls up and down the fence post while supporting the ends of the 2x4? Apologize if I am not very clear. Basically I am playing with the top horizontal brace while trying to hold it level on the top. Thanks

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So we just had a new gate for the side yard installed today, and now that I'm a bit more awake to take a closer look at it, I had a couple concerns. First off, this is the first fencing job I've had done on my house and I just want to validate any issues real quick before bringing it back up with the contractor. Overall, I'm very happy with the price and responsiveness of the company we went with.

1. The gate latch doesn't latch itself closed when shutting the door. We have to manually lift up on the latch to close the latch. This is actually my main complaint with the build but it seems like it would be a simple enough fix. The 2 pieces of metal on the latch seem to be rubbing together too tight, especially near that metal tab in the middle of the latches.

2. Should the gate door framing have full length vertical wood on the right side of the diagonal piece of wood? The door seems solid now, but I don't know if sagging will be an issue in the near future?

3. The picket in the last picture has a crack in it on the hinge, is this something that should be addressed?

Looking for advice from fellow fence pros!

I have a client whose property backs onto a busy highway and wants a fence to help reduce noise. For those of you who’ve worked on similar projects, what solutions have you used to achieve the best results?

Would love to hear about your experiences!

I'm building a gate with heart redwood pickets. What color screws should I buy? Red to match the color now, grey to match what it'll look like in a few years, or a neutral tan? I'm afraid the red would be too "showy" as the gate weathers.

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The rocks are just inside the property line. So I want to hold onto as much of the property as I can with the fence. Should I mount posts in these rocks? Or is there a better idea?

Does anyone recommend any specific gate hinges so our gate can swing both ways? (Pause.)

So I have 4x6 posts and a 4ft opening. Deck boards running horizontally and I want to have the gate swing in and also have it level with the outside. I can't wrap my head around this. The 4in sides are on the inside of the opening.

Thanks everyone

Hi. I'm planning to build a fence in my backyard in Florida primarily for my child's safety. There’s a freshwater canal at the back of the yard with a CMU retaining wall/seawall. Since the yard is relatively small, I’d prefer to install the fence directly on top of the retaining wall but I don’t want to compromise its strength, especially during hurricane winds. Optionally, I’d like the fence to be as close to the wall as possible without causing any issues.

Since I often fish from the canal, I want the fence to be no more than 4 feet tall with a flat top, making it comfortable to lean against with a fishing rod. Additionally, I don’t want to block the view, so I’d like the fence to be see-through.

Which option and what type of fence would you recommend?

I'm building a 3-rail fence soon and trying to decide between 5/4x6 deck boards vs. 1x6 vs. 2x6 rails. Also looking to put in either woven wire or cattle panels (only a little more than woven wire). Any advice? the fence needs to withstand my boys climbing on it and maybe some animals at som e point, but mostly my boys.

Planning on 4x4 posts on 8' centers with 6x6 posts at ends and for gates.

I had a new fence installed mid-July. The fence is majority pressure treated wood but the doors are cedar. The fence company said to wait at least 1-2 months before sealing but as we had on and off rain it took a while to dry. Now temps are dropping to the 40s and I fear it’s too late for sealing.

Is it safe to wait till spring for the doors? The full fence will have to wait either way. I’m in northern Virginia and our winters aren’t too brutal. I’m just afraid that this is that one year that we get a blizzard. But since it’s a new fence I’m hoping it can last the winter. Otherwise I could wait for a mild pattern where temps are around the 50s to at least seal the doors.

Thanks in advance!

I have an 8 foot board on board cedar fence. It’s anchored with metal poles that I believe are about 24 inches deep in concrete. It was installed about 13 years ago and is starting to slightly lean away from the house. It’s probably about 6 inches off the vertical at the top. What are my options for correcting this?

Hi

I am in Bergen county,NJ. I am getting quotes to install V300 white vinyl privacy fence 6 feet tall , with 2 gates . What price is a good deal?

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