/r/FenceBuilding
A Sub-Reddit dedicating to fences & barriers; showing your labor, sharing your wisdom, pretty pictures and learning from others.
A Sub-Reddit dedicating to fences & barriers; showing your labor, sharing your wisdom, pretty pictures and learning from others.
Posting: Any related content welcome. Zero tolerance for explicit company advertising.
Disagreements: Constructive criticism only, don't rub your ego by hurting others. Destructive behavior will be removed.
User Made Tutorials/Walk-throughs: Extremely encouraged, will be archived in the wiki. Remind the Mod(s) if you feel your tutorial post has been overlooked.
Wood/Board
Barbed Wire
Gate/Panel
Picket/Yard
Chain Link
Hedge Barriers
And More
/r/FenceBuilding
Looking to install 70' of 6' chainlink fence. I would like to know the requirements/recommend sizes for the end post, line posts, and top rails? Picture for reference.
I am looking to built a simple horizontal fence but one of the corners on the property is not at a 90 digree angle. Any suggestions?
I live in a wooded, rustic setting. Will sealing or staining my new cedar T&G fence extend its life significantly? I prefer a natural wood look, not interested in adding color to it. If I go with a clear stain/seal, when it is time to re-stain in a few years, how much prep work is involved? Need I pressure wash/scrub the whole fence?
I am in the middle of building a privacy fence. I just finished one side of the yard. Dug all the 16 holes with a post hole digger and root bar to about 33". I decided I'm going to pay my neighbors 16 yo kid to dig the rest of the 8 holes. I'm still going to set the posts and everything else.
What do you think is fair price per post hole dug (by hand)? I was thinking $20 but there shouldn't be too many rocks and roots in this stretch, so it might not take him more than an hour or two.
I know I probably should have just rented an auger but I was worried about roots and rocks.
Hi everyone,
I want to put a gate on this side of the house. What is the proper way to do it? Can I just cut the horizontal braces, put in a 4x4 post and the door hardware without modifying the length of the pickets?
Moved into a new neighborhood and we are the first ones to put up a fence. HOA requires them to get our written approval if they want to build off of our fence.
What is the proper etiquette in this situation? Should the neighbors offer to pay for 50% of shared the fence? If offered do we accept?Should I ask them to pay 50% if they don't offer?
Or should we be good neighbors and let it go?
Thank you in advance ☺️
Neighbors installed a fence after small contributions from me for some design upgrades on the shared property line. Neighbor is a flipper therefore doesn't care about longevity or details in craftsmanship like I do, and used their own contractor who did the house remodel instead of a professional fencer. It appears they used planks that were not cut to proper height as the bottom edge is very jagged, the gap to the ground varies up and down inconsistently with some planks touching the ground and others with a gap as high as 5". It appears that despite my complaint the neighbors have no interest in fixing it which for flippers is not surprising.
What is the best way to fix this without completely removing and resetting properly cut planks? Getting a saw in there will be difficult but is probably my only option.
My first thought was to saw off the bottom of the individual planks that sit too low with level horizontal cut and attempt to cut each to create a consistent gap that follows the grade. This may be really difficult given how inconsistent the current gap is and I may end up with too large a gap.
I could make a single cut on an angle following the grade on each fence panel, but I don't think ever ever seen a diagonal cut on the bottom of fence planks and fear it may look weird, and again the gap may end up too big.
At a minimum I have to trim up the planks on the ground so they don't get ruined from soil contact. If I don't like the resulting look because it will still be jagged and inconsistent, I could try to wedge a 1x4 or 1x6 treated pine rot board in to cover up the bottom. I have the side of the fence with the rails so having to look at another horizontal board wouldn't be a big deal, but isn't ideal.
I have a 70+year old wall that's in good condition. The problem is that when the previous homeowner paved the backyard it brought the fence to less the 5' tall. I want to attach vertical 4 by 4's and horizontal shiplap redwood to the wall. Is this too much weight? Am I setting myself up for problems? If so which? I'm planning on keeping it around 6' tall. I'm not planning on digging post holes just anchors and lags for the wall.
Looking to put up a fence around our back yard (about 250 linear feet) to keep our dog and children in and having trouble deciding on the materials. Cedar is pretty expensive right now where I live, so a 4 ft cedar dogear panel costs roughly the same as a 6 ft pressure treated pine panel. My back lot line has a 5 ft (on either side of the lot line) utility easement so there will be a 10 ft gap between my fence and my back neighbor’s fence. This has me leaning toward the 6 ft fence so that I don’t see the no-man’s land from my 2nd story windows, but from what I’ve read the consensus is that a cedar fence is probably the “nicer” material
I'm interested in redoing my fence. What kind of tools do you or would you recommend to make sure all boards are even? A simple string or is there something else? Something better?
This must be like 1 foot tall and I saw it at my local store. I’m looking for this type of fence to install my yard, but I would like for it to be elevated so my cats can go under it. Does anyone know what this would be called? I’ve been looking up “mini chain-link” fence, but I can’t find it.
I am building a 6 foot tall cedar fence.
I am using 2 3/8" galvanized steel 13 gauge round posts.
I had the posts driven into the ground, they only drove them 30" which I wasn't thrilled about I wanted them 34" but they said, they had to cut the tops off because pounding deforms them.
There are 3 posts in row 2 of which will be a 4' gate that they hit a big rock and could only drive one 21" deep and the others 2 are about 24". What should I do about this? Is it something I should worry about?
I live in Lubbock TX and it does get windy here (northern TX)
Should I dig them up and pour concert around them? This damn fence is costing me $3500 in materials and is only 194 feet of fence so with an investment like that I don't want to have issues or do it half assed..
Thanks for the help!!
Does anyone have any software recommendations to create fence elevations?
Thanks!
Any thoughts on how to fix these gaps under the gates? Move into the house and got a dog. He figured out very quickly that he could slip under the gate.
I have a professionally installed 6' horizontal FenceTrac system (very similar to the attached photo). I would like to extend its height by 2 feet. I've found the same size aluminum post extenders (would by channels separately), but the minimum height is 6'. Any issues with cutting the aluminum posts and channels to 2'? Any other ideas?
Is there a way to stain cedar to achieve a color that is part grey and part reddish? Sort of like what a partly weather worn fence looks like after rain, but the idea being for it to be in a permanent state, protected via the stain.
Does anyone have a slightest idea of where I can get this PVC bamboo fencing I’ve only found this available either on eBay coming from the UK or on Alibaba shipping directly from China. I’m looking to purchase it in the United States.
I know the standard 1/3 to 1/2 rule applies for depth of posts, but if you were installing a privacy fence (horizontal cedar boards- up to 9 feet high) using 4x4 metal square tubing for the aesthetics, would that change the rule?
Details: 2x6 boards ran horizontally starting 4 feet off of the ground. Height 9 feet. 12-14 foot length.
Not sure if I can explain this properly or not but I am looking for a solution to a current issue. I recently installed a weatherables vinyl fence. When I hung the gate it pulls on the fence post it’s hinged to causing the gate to sag. There seems to be some movement at the top of the gate post. It’s currently cemented into the ground with an aluminum support inside the post. The top rail was cut short to make the panel 6ft instead of 8ft. Looking for some way to keep the gate post from flexing. Any help is appreciated!
I'm looking at building a low (2-3 feet tall) fence around our vegetable garden with a gate. Do I really need concrete footings for the posts? I'm in Kansas. I plan on digging 2' down and using gravel/soil at the moment.