My milk frother stopped working. It has 3 buttons that are supposed to select 3 different RPMs, but they didn't do anything other than light up when pressed. I looked at the circuit board and found a suspect solder joint, so I re-flowed it and got the motor to work again. the problem is that only one button now works. The others still light up, but nothing happens when I press them other than the firt button stops working and the lit LED changes to the one I just pressed. Also, the motor doesn't start on its own - I have to give it a little nudge to get it started. It will run all day on a charge once I get it going.

I've included some pics. I soldered on the red and black wires in one of the pics to try to bypass the board and only use one of the buttons, but that didn't work. Someone told me here that it was a PWM circuit. I removed the wires, as you can see, in the later pics. I've gone through and re-flowed a bunch of the solder points around the circuit, but still haven't fixed the problem.

Is this a sign that one of those black components is probably bad? Or is there something else I could try?

I don't have an oscilloscope. Just a soldering gun and a hand lens.

https://preview.redd.it/yukyfp4muhvc1.jpg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0bfd674c16a7a0f6b8439c83532e0507d4d94f41

https://preview.redd.it/salbso4muhvc1.jpg?width=4208&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=031a5cc7a52225c716ddc614f250dc31c7e69f91

https://preview.redd.it/06dggo4muhvc1.jpg?width=4208&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7d81c3e4a773cd97cceb88ea37ccf03f03a0f796

https://preview.redd.it/6t1lao4muhvc1.jpg?width=4208&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97165b95f0c0bb731de2c24059842b97c956ff92

I am extremely new to electronics and with my limited knowledge I think this will work without issue, but I don’t know how to even check if I need to add like a capacitor or resistor. Or if it even will actually work.

I have a pad that senses vibration and sends this data to other device via espnow. It works fine when I'm using it with battery but as soon as I connect the charger it starts giving false detection.

Does anyone has any idea about what's happening here. I have added gdrive link for videos in comments.

So i recently bought these VizGiz adapters off amazon, and my chip is a samsung i found the B031 data sheet for this chip. The only thing i seen was one comment say they used there BGA-153 on this with a little bit of tweaking. From my understanding the balls are on the board. So if im correct no need to reball unless i reuse either one of these? How exactly do i got about positioning and getting this chip onto the usb? I read someone removed the arch balls on the board for there chip similar to mine to work. Also having components on the back, does this mean my best choice is using a heat gun from the top where the chip is... any tips would be greatly appreciated! (PS: More of a learning experience not too worried about messing it up but prefer not to with being pointed in the right direction.)

https://preview.redd.it/fwut1jauu3vc1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23039d487c5e9156018f8d8e397888c5f27adc71

I need help! Is there a name for this kind of circuit or not. I am trying to make a alarm clock that shoots water I had a sound sensor lying around and I hooked it up to a transistor but It only turns the transistor on as long as there is sound (sound from my phone alarm). I will put my phone close to the microphone.

Is there a circuit which will detect the signal the audios sensor will output and then turn the transistor on so it can turn on a relay inturn running the pump

Any help will be appreciated.

Anyway to change over dc to ac from different voltages in a small way? Or would this be a pretty big inverter. Trying to use a tool battery (Mikwuakee battery) to convert power to test 24v motors and relays while being mobile.

Hello everyone

In order to drive 2 leds (one for HIGH, one for LOW) on a single register output, I want to connect the leds between said output and a 2,5V output.

Would it damage the chip if I use the LOW output as ground?

Would it damage the 2,5V output if the current is reversed (when the register output is HIGH, the current would flow from the register (5V) to the 2,5V output.

Every LED would have an equal and individual resistor.

So I have a situation where I have a RGB controller that is Common Cathode. And I need to be able to hook up a Common Anode LED strip.(and no I can't change controllers, and want to figure this out) an I have seen people post some circuits of how to do it, but indent understand the technical side of reading them.

So I am hoping someone can help me and put it in terms that a Newble can understand.

Also I am not sure if it is possible. But it would be great if there was a way to add a dial that even if the controller says 100% brightness I could turn a dial and dim the led strip. (The controller only has low and high brightness, and at time low is to low and high is way to high.) Not sure if that is possible but hope there is a way as I have a section that I don't want as bright as the rest of the stuff but want the colors to stay in sync.

So basically I need to know that components I need and how they should be wired up. LED strip is 12v, not sure what the controller is. 5v or 12V. If that matters in this method.

Thanks in advance

I need 2 laser diodes for tomorrow so I picked up 2 of these cheap crap little Laser pointers. Is it even possible to get the two laser diodes out of them?

So I got this 5v relay and I ma trying to controll it with a wemos d1 wifi micontroller. The thing is it ha the green lamp on relay its always staying on so it means relay its always staying energized, and I cannot get the other state of pump. Any opinions? Here is the code(relay is gettin controlled throught pin7):

#include <DHT.h> #include <Servo.h>

// Define sensor and pump pins #define DHTPIN D6 #define DHTTYPE DHT11 #define pumpPin D7

// Define threshold for humidity (adjust as needed) #define HUMIDITY_THRESHOLD 50 // Example threshold value

DHT dht(DHTPIN, DHTTYPE); Servo servo1; Servo servo2;

const int servoPin1 = D5; const int servoPin2 = D4;

const int minAngle = 0; const int maxAngle = 180;

void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); dht.begin(); servo1.attach(servoPin1); servo2.attach(servoPin2); servo1.write(minAngle); servo2.write(minAngle); pinMode(pumpPin, OUTPUT); }

void loop() { float temperature = dht.readTemperature(); float humidity = dht.readHumidity();

Serial.print("Temperature: "); Serial.print(temperature); Serial.print(" °C\tHumidity: "); Serial.print(humidity); Serial.println(" %");

if (temperature > 26 && servo1.read() == minAngle && servo2.read() == minAngle) { moveServos(maxAngle, maxAngle); } else if (temperature < 24 && servo1.read() == maxAngle && servo2.read() == maxAngle) { moveServos(minAngle, minAngle); }

if (humidity < HUMIDITY_THRESHOLD) { digitalWrite(pumpPin, HIGH); // Turn on pump if humidity is below threshold } else { digitalWrite(pumpPin, LOW); // Turn off pump otherwise }

delay(1000); }

void moveServos(int targetAngle1, int targetAngle2) { servo1.write(targetAngle1); servo2.write(targetAngle2); }

I have some of these great slot-in USB-C ports that I would love to connect to my Raspberry Pi Pico clone but it is already fitted with a USB-C port

How can I connect these up? I have two variations of the USB-C port, one with separate wires and one with some kind of dupont connector labelled as 'PH 2.0' (which do not align with 2.54mm pin headers)

I have an issue that i simply cannot fix with the window. The labelled pins make the window go up and down if bridged with the positive line. If i connect the physical switches it does not work. Does anyone have any help or advice? I feel like i have tried everything and have had this problem for months.

I am using the AM radio switch to turn on the BT. I removed the first resistor after the AM switch to power the receiver unit. Now everything works right except I get tons of interference when operating the BT. If I disconnect the speakers and hook directly up to them. The interference goes away and music plays clearly. Is there something I am missing that could still give power to the AM circuit? Would that cause interference.

Hello. I was recently tasked with simulating a PSK Modulator for a communication systems course. I used the configuration shown in the image but I struggle a little with the understanding of how it functions and how does it generate the shape of the PM signal in its exit. I understand the theory of how modulators modulate signals, but I'm lost with PM modulators and their circuit analysis. I was wondering if someone could aid me and give me some guidance. I would be very gratefull. Thanks

Are semiconductors aging? How are things with bipolar transistors? Where can I read about it?

Hello, I am trying to make a clock with arduino and pixie tubes but I'm not sure of where to get them without resorting to resellers like ebay, is there a website that has them listed at a good price and is able to ship worldwide?

I am brushing up on the fundamentals of electronics and I would really appreciate it if someone explained why we say the voltage remains the same in a parallel circuit? I get the current being different part though.

Imagine a circuit with 3 resistors in parallel configuration, there will be voltage drops across each of these resistors due to their individual resistances, right? Then how does the voltage across the branches remain the same if there is a resistor in each branch?

Thanks in advance.

Hi. I have been researching PM modulators lately and recently came across this design. I would like to know if this particular circuit works, how it functions, or if there is any other more practical designs to make my own modulator and generate a good PM signal. I know the theory of how the signal is modulated and what would the obtained signal look like, but I struggle a little with understanding and how to analyze these types of circuits. I would greatly appreciate some guidance in understanding these sort of configurations. Thanks in advance.

https://preview.redd.it/oh5l042rlmsc1.png?width=1015&format=png&auto=webp&s=d97a0f1047cb04636b5d86544e912023c20a1ca2

Hello all,

I'm working on a circuit maint to show the AC voltage on 3 7-seg display. I'm currently working on making a DC signal from 0 to 5V in order to measure it with the Analog pin of a uP.

I used a resistor bridge to reduce the voltage to an acceptable level for a LTC1966 (1V peak at max source peak voltage = 700V) It will render the RMS of the given AC signal as a DC signal. I then had to filter the ripples so i based a filter on the LTC1966 datasheet . Finally i amplify the signal so it goes from 0 to 5V.

The LTC1966 Output is defined like:

With OUT RTN and IN2 = GND, so basically 0.

​

LTC1966 Vout

Meaning, since the intput signal is a sine: Vout = (Vin peak)/sqrt(2)

There is the issue: While simulating on LTspice the output doesn't seem to be linear and get unrealistic as i get closer to the 1Vp signal. ex:

34mV should be 24mV is 23mV

143mV should be 101 mV is 79mV

429mV should be 304mV is 280mV

715mV should be 501mV is 606mV

1V should be 707mV is 942mV

I'm aware that devices are not meant to be perfect but i don't get why the simulation get it so wrong ?

Did i get the functioning wrong ?

Ultimate goal is to figure out part numbers of the inductors.

I know the inductance of all the coils in the picture but I'm trying to figure out DC resistance (knowing AWG will help). All coils are from Jantzen Audio.

From left to right:

1. Upper Iron Core: 6.8mH - DON'T KNOW DCR
2. Lower Iron Core: 18mH - DON'T KNOW DCR
3. Air Core: 0.47mH - DON'T KNOW DCR
4. Upper Air Core: I KNOW THIS ONE
5. Lower Air Core: 1mH - DON'T KNOW DCR
6. Litz Wire Wax Coil - I KNOW THIS ONE