There is gorgeous oak wood underneath.

If I keep the original wood windows in my basement/attic, could I reinstall them once I have the time to refurbish and put them back one at a time over my lifetime?

Or is it time for modernity to take over and plastic (vinyl) to rule the world?

Has anyone encountered these before? They install on tracks like normal modern screens, and the metal part that bends actually is only mounted to the frame on one side.

As much as I am a preservation stickler, these seem to be beyond help. Thoughts, suggestions? They are for the casement windows in our sleeping porch/sun room.

The hinges are all clean and the windows open and shut smootly now but I'm not certain whether to put the flashing on the window part or inside the frame and which way to point it so it doesn't get snagged. I guess it's like adding it to a door but I'm a little confused. I've only done double hung windows so far.

As the world electrifies, do you have a plan for your century home?

We have large cast iron radiators - I love the charm they provide (and the heat). We also have central air. Don't love the square footage they take up. My boiler is from the 70s, we have original windows, etc. We could do a lot for energy efficiency and electrification.

Have you done anything yet? Do you plan to?

Has anyone else noticed the new color showing up in house flips/renos? I'm calling it Sad Sage.

We are looking at buying a century home built in 1910. There is vermiculite in the attic. The current owners had it tested in 2017 and the report says it tested at <0.1%. Does this mean it is safe? Or does any number other than 0% mean it has asbestos?

I am trying to glaze a storm window I made and the glazing is not tooling smooth at all. Every time I try and tool it, it is trying to stick to my putty knife just enough to leave the edge against the window with a bunch of cracks. I am using Sarcos multi glaze type m. Is it too dry?

We have what was an old powder room off our kitchen that we're converting to a pantry (probably what it originally was in our 100 year old home)...at sometime in the past they put drywall over the original plasterboard. The drywall is in pretty good condition but we noticed that where we the toilet tank used to be (against an outside wall), the paint is bubbling up. Just wondering if anyone would have ideas on what would cause that?

Now that we think about it, the drywall patch directly behind the tank was a different color - not sure if it was never painted or just not when it was repainted in the past.

Would anyone mind to take a look at the inspection report I got? There are a lot of issues. I have a decent budget to go into restoration but I fear it may not be enough.

If so, please let me know and I can send it to you. I'd rather not post it here due to personal details. (UPDATE: I posted the text below)

1. Cloth wiring is present. This type of wiring is common for the age of the home; however, it is generally considered a potential fire hazard and will eventually need to be replaced.

2. The majority of the roof shingles are Asbestos tiles. NOTE: The tiles are in poor condition, various rubber flashing boots (around the plumbing vent piping), is torn, and there is granular loos to the asphalt shingles. Additional concern is obtaining home owners insurance on a roof of this condition. Replacement should be expected.

3. Various gutters are sagging, not able to locate the discharge end of all downspout drain pipes, and various downspouts discharge against the foundation. NOTE: Due to the pitch of the roof, recommend replacing the gutters/downspouts with 6 inch size.

4. Cracks noted in the exterior at various areas. It is my professional opinion, that the cracks are due common settlement that occurs over time. Recommend sealing the cracks to prevent water entry/additional cracking. NOTE: I am not a structural engineer/licensed contractor and you may request further review for verification.

5. The wells along the rear of the home/foundation allow water entry into the basement.

6. The rails at the rear walk way/ramp are loose.

7. Extension cords are routed at various areas. NOTE: Extension cords are intended to be used as a permanent power source. Not able to verify what the cords serve.

8. The doorbell is not working.

9. Recommend installing a gas arm on the rear storm door.

10. Water damage noted to the ceiling around the fireplace chimney. No recent rains have occurred and not able to determine if this is an active lake or past damage.

11. The globe has been removed from the family room ceiling fan/light fixture.

12. There are limited outlets, (common for the age of the home). Adding more outlets should be expected. In addition, the majority of the outlets are the original two wire ungrounded type. Recommend installing GFCI protection on all ungrounded circuits as a way to provide protection of high end appliances, computers, entertainment equipment, etc.

13. One outlet in the kitchen has been taped over. The outlet tested correctly. Not able to determine why the outlet has been tapped over.

14. Card board has been installed beneath the kitchen sink. Not able to verify why.

15. The hot and cold water lines at the kitchen sink are reversed.

16. Most windows are seized/painted shut and the ballast cords have been removed at various windows.

17. Suspect the kitchen exhaust discharges into the chimney. Not able to verify due to limited visibility.

18. The oven needs to be cleaned.

19. The paint in the laundry room is peeling. NOTE: Due to the age of the home, the paint could contain lead and sections of the vinyl flooring and the adhesive used when installing the vinyl could contain asbestos. No environmental testing of any kind was performed.

20. There is no ducted heating or cooling to the laundry room.

21. The dishwasher is portable and was not operated.

22. Copper pipe has been connected directly to galvanized pipe without using dialectic unions calls as corrosion of the piping.

23. Sections of the supply and waste piping is the original cast iron and/or galvanized pipe. NOTE: Average life of this type of piping is 50 (+-) years. Repairs/replacement should be expected. NOTE: Corrosion/leaks noted to the water supply piping.

24. There is no vent for the basement dryer.

25. The basement clothes washer, utility sink, and HVAC condensate drain, discharge into a pit in the basement which is relieved by a sump pump. NOTE: The sump pump pit is not covered.

26. Switches and junction boxes noted with no cover plates.

27. Various sink/tub faucets need to be replaced.

28. Various folding doors are off track/need to be adjusted

29. Fungus/mold noted within the crawlspace and on various air ducts. Recommend further review by an environmental company for EPA recommended methods of mitigation and prevention.

30. The towel bar and various wall tiles at the main level bathroom have been removed.

31. The chrome traps beneath various sinks are corroded. Replacement should be expected.

32. There is no seat on the half bathroom toilet.

33. There is no handrail/pickets on the open side of the basement stairs and there are no pickets on the existing handrail.

34. The retaining wall, (adjacent to the furnace), is leaning and there is a crack in the wall adjacent to the sump pump.

35. The main level bathroom floor is rotted/damaged.

36. Two floor Joist have been cut into to allow passage of PVC pipes with properly supporting the joist.

37. The gas water heater is venting into chimney flue The heater flue pipe must extend to the top of the chimney.

38. Recommend installing vapor barrier over the exposed soil in the crawlspace areas. 39. Wire cables passing through metal boxes without the proper protective grommets.

39. The top basement step is weak.

40. Cracks/settlement noted to the family room wall.

41. The PVC concentrate drain sags/does not maintain a constant fall.

42. The railing for the primary stairs is loose and the height of the railing is low for current industry standards.

43. The ceiling in the upper master bedroom is damaged and water stains noted to one bedroom ceiling. Not able to verify if the leak is active or not due to no recent rains.

44. The water at the upper bathroom sink will not turn off and the tub faucet is seized.

45. There is one broken window.

46. The cable anchor is loose.

47. There is no pressure regulating valve noted in the main incoming water line.

48. Suspect signs of water entry at the rear Wells. No photos

49. Both fireplace flues should be professionally cleaned prior to use.

50. Recommend upgrading all smoke detectors throughout the home.

Trying to figure out how to remove/replace this old vent grate. Should I just go full demo on it and break it apart piece by piece? We have an even larger one on our living room. Any advice is appreciated!