I just created r/findmeracing as a resource for finding motorsports events and collaborating with other disciplines to find all aggregator sites. I have noticed that Motorsportreg has quite a big gap in event listings, so I thought a specialized community focused on finding hidden events could help alleviate this issue of sites opening and closing all the time.

I would love for some members here to join to help anyone that is looking for HPDE's. Currently the sub is empty but it should have many newbies sometime tomorrow.

Just trying to plan another trip to VIR which is a LONG way from home. Went to TrackDaze a few years back at VIR Grand / Full and had a blast - though crazy crowded and big delta in “skill” seen on track.

I know all kinds of DE providers run Full.

I’m not against running TrackDaze again. It was well run, and I understand why it was crowded especially with a rarity it seems for the Grand course.

Anyone else run DE events on the Grand 4.20-mile configuration?

I love my GT350 but the track reliability just isnt there. Im considering a Mach 1 or a GR86. The thing I like about the GR86 are the cheap consumables and its lightweight.

My other car is a CTR so I have been really enjoying that on the track. The consumables are pretty cheap but its not the best year round car just because of the summer and the overheating. So I'm considering another car I can track during the summer.

I know that its going to have higher consumables and running costs, but wondering if its worth considering. Im undecided abkut going for a heavy pony car vs a lightweight GR86.

I can't really find any ownership or track considerations. All of the stuff I see on YouTube are people giving street reviews

Hi! I've never to a race track before. But I want to try it now and make it one of my hobbies!

I used to be a mechanic, so not afraid of a broken car. Looking at my ~$4k budget, I want a car to be able to have fun on a race track. These are the candidates:

1. 2011 Audi S4 with a broken transmission
2. 2010 VW GTI (works for now, but needs timing chain job done soon)
3. 2003 Mercedes SL500. No issues
4. 2006 Miata. Needs body work which I hate!!!
5. 2004 Nissan 350z
6. BMW E46
7. BMW E90
8. Give me options

I prefer something to be as my daily drive too. So please consider that as well

Update4 and important: the initial budget is $4k. I'm fine with gradual spending on the car.

Update: forgot to add the 350z!

Update 2: I see that the highest vote goes for the Miata. But how's the daily drive on that? The second vote goes to the GTI, and I agree on it being a nightmare (I've owned one before!)

Update3: added BMW E90 and E46

Hey guys,

Likely a stupid question but does anyone have any experience with these tires on track? I did one track day with my 2018 A4 Quattro. She’s a heavy girl so a lot more stress on consumables I imagine. Had a blast and quicky got bumped up classes in HPDE. Didn’t really let up on any of the sessions. By the end the factory Pirelli Centurion P7 were absolutely toast (I did significantly reduce pressures as well). Wanted another A/S tire on my factory wheels so I settled for the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4. Sort of a do it all tire with more performance in mind as I’ve read on it.

Love the tires so far, but can I expect to immediately destroy these on track too? Any possibility of taking it easier and leaving a track day with plenty of tread and not chunked up tires? I almost refuse to believe that every little HPDE event is going to cost me $1k+ on tires every time. Eventually I’ll get a separate set of wheels and tires but that doesn’t help me now. And although track tires hold heat better they’re also softer so won’t I just run into the same issues anyways? Idk. Anyways, any tips, feedback, or experiences are greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Edit: Thanks for all the feedback everyone! Looks like I’ll just have to wait until I can get a separate set of wheels and tires.

Hey everyone! Curious on any tips or places that might help sell a dedicated track car? I have a gutted car that "could" be driven around on the road but it's pretty much fully dedicated track car just with no cage. I'm in the process of getting into a different chassis and wanting to sell off the old one and threw it on Facebook marketplace but not sure if that's the best place for it so thought I'd see where anyone else has had any success!

Hey all, mulling over options on brake pad combos as well as possible future BBK and ran into a personal thought conundrum trying to understand brake bias and the effect on weight transfer, trail braking and over/under steer. I'm wanting to see how you all handle these concepts and if my thought process is sound. I'll also add that I don't have a brake proportioning valve and would rather KISS with the bias controlled at the caliper and rotors. For my car most BBK options move brake bias slightly forward (5-7%) based on piston and rotor size calculations; and one moves brake bias rearward. Right now I do use a slight pad stagger w/ GLoc R12 front and R10 rear which was recommended by manufacturer. I know others that stagger up to R16/R12.

Here is my understanding on brake bias, correct me if I'm wrong.

My understanding of brake bias is that it is an economy of weight transfer as well as the total limit of tire grip, both longitudinal and lateral. Naturally when you brake you shift weight forward and as you shift brake bias forward you further increase forward weight transfer. As you increase weight over the front wheels you get more vertical normal force Fn on the tires which means increased friction/grip which allows further greater braking torque up to a certain extent. In my mind this is most obvious on motorcycles where they have independent control of front and rear brakes and can pop nose manuals with excessive front brake application. With greater forward weight transfer and front grip this may be used in different proportions for longitudinal grip in braking or lateral grip for turning depending on the dynamic condition of the car. This follows the concept of trailing/lift-off/braking oversteer. However in dynamic situations it is also possible to create too much forward weight transfer (such as over-speed entry into a corner) which will overload your longitudinal grip leaving not enough lateral grip to turn, thus creating understeer. Similarly when considering brake bias and its control of weight transfer, small shifts of brake bias forward can provide improved braking authority as well as forward weight transfer to help with rotation. However with excessively large shifts of brake bias forward you can also get excessive understeer. It all depends on the thresholds of longitudinal and lateral grip and where you are within the limit.

I'm a bit too rushed right now to reverse engineer this thinking for rearward shifts in brake bias but I think it should follow logically.

So do I have my concepts correct? Anything else you guys would add? Any way to put this in a more succinct fashion? I'm interested in discussion.

I bought a Mustang PP2 last year and I've been wanting to take it to the track but I don't know where to start. I would think I would need a helmet and a HANS device from my own research but that's about it. I have a nearby drag strip that does track days but I don't want to drag race the car, only road race it or at the very least track it on an oval. There is a NASCAR track about 1-1/2 away. I have no idea if they do track days or even how to find out if they do.

Any help would be appreciated. I asked in the Mustang sub but it just crickets.

Say I have $30k to get my foot in the door.

I started with just wondering how to get on the track and I learned a little about HPDE and racing licenses, then I wound up considering spec miata. I figured I can get it all done for $30k, give or take, and then future seasons are cheaper because I already have the car.

But hearing that the frontrunners can be big orgs and serious career drivers, and costs being able to skyrocket, it all just seemed a bit expensive and maybe too competitive

So I wanted to look down a level. For you familiar folks, what's beneath spec miata that still offers some sort of fun and friendly competition.

Edit: If there was a 2 birds with 1 stone kinda deal where my racecar was also street legal, that would sweeten the situation.

Has anyone had luck securing an AutoX-specific policy from a company other than Lockton? I have seen folks raving about Lockton, but they have had an indefinite hold on issuing new policies in California since the LA fires.

Alternatively, Hagerty will do a day of track insurance for $460, with a $6k deductible, which feels steep for a day of AutoX.

Any help or advice is appreciated, thanks!

Has anyone tried all 3? The goal is to get as many laps as possible out of a set of tires. These seem to have the best reputation for being the sweet spot for longevity and grip.

Almost done building the K24 250WHP MX-5 NC3 Club. This will be my first track car. No goals for anything super competitive. I just want to share the car with my friends and get them on the track with me and drive fast.

I've been trying to fumble my way thru making a spread sheet that I can input my sessions or track hours and it'll track the age of fluids or components.

Does anyone have something similar they would be willing to share?

What about any other useful lists or spread sheets? Budgets, session notes, packing check lists?

Sooooo I used to own & track a 2018 Camaro 2SS non-1LE (~10 track days total). It came stock with summer tires & semi-metallic brakes. Recently traded it & bought the Corvette C8, but its a base 2LT with michelin all-seasons on it. (also believe it doesn't have metallic brakes). My question: Anybody have experience tracking a non-Z51 C8 corvette? I've read on the corvetteforums of people doing it without issue, but only for a beginner HPDE class, not level 2 or 3 HPDE's. I'm hoping to hit a level 2 HPDE event in the mid-atlantic with NASA sometime in October. Thoughts? (would like real-world experience, not opinion please)

The bug has bitten me and I did a local "speed of the street" at my local track (The Bend Motorsport Park). I took my fun car, my 2009 BMW 125i manual convertible. The 125i did pretty great - however a few weak points emerged. And it's got me thinking whether my "daily" is a better choice for the occasional track day, my 2015 VW Golf Mk7 GTI Performance

Thoughts on my 125i

- manual NA straight six, more engaging powertrain than the 2.0 Turbo EA888 GTI

- Even though it's a S704 sport package, it has early BMW electric power steering. It's not terrible, but it is pretty numb compared to my old E36, and even my GTI has more communicative steering. (I could eventually retrofit a hydraulic rack down the line)

- Stock brakes are a bit underwhelming. I got the fluid flushed just before, but the brakes don't have a lot of bite. This could be easily sorted with upgrading to 330mm rotors and getting some proper track pads (likely Ferodo FS2500). This is a fun car so I can have noisy brakes.

- It's a convertible (but surprisingly didn't feel floppy and stupid, but I'm sure a coupe would feel better)

However, after doing all that, it's occurred to me that my Golf GTI Performance might be the better option - and what's the point of having two cars?

Pros:

- DSG, which is a bit easier (but also a con)

- better steering (more feel)

- better stock brakes (much bigger, way more initial bite even on stock pads)

- eLSD which gets the power down pretty well

- stiffer than the convertible

Cons:

- it's my daily/more expensive car, worth $20-25k AUD versus $9K that I paid for the 125i recently. if I binned the GTI, it'd hurt - the 125i is cheap enough to walk away and have it not sting as much

- wrong wheel drive/FWD, would need something like an 034 Motorsports rear sway bar to liven up the handling

- I can't modify this too much and ruin it for daily driving (the 125i is a pure fun car and who cares if it becomes an impractical fun car)

What would you do in my position?

Keep the 125i as a fun cruiser and use the GTI as a track car?
Make the 125i more suitable for the track?
Sell the 125i and modify the GTI?

Hi!

I’m thinking about buying some FA coil overs at the next scratch and dent sale and I had a few questions:

My car is a daily/track 22 Veloster N and sees 8-10 days a year and driving to and from work everyday. Would 510s still be suitable for daily use or would do 500s make more sense for this case?

Also has anyone purchased from the scratch and dent sale? How’s the actual scratch and dents on the products ? Any issues with quality?

Thanks!

Hey guys, I’m headed to my first ever track day at NJ motorsports park in March or April. I just got a ‘23 ZL1 1LE with 264 miles on it. Soooo….what do I need to do to get her track ready. She has Michelin ps4s (ok for track use?? I’ve read mixed things) I’m new to this and no one in my circle knows anything about cars so any advice would be greatly appreciated :)

... but also a nice shot of my wife driving our Vantage GT4, en route to taking P2 in class at Daytona yesterday. It was our first IMSA race, and as the only married couple on the grid, I knew there might be extra attention on us. Finishing the race cleanly was our primary goal; finishing on the podium was beyond my wildest dreams.

I know, Miata is the answer. But…

• I’m 6’3” without a helmet, and about 230lbs. Tried squeezing in a Miata with no luck.
• living in California and sold my G42 tBMW that I was using as a track car - expensive to run, and was modified well outside the CA regulations

Was thinking of an older ore emissions platform, lightweight, easy to get parts and mods, and first gen Mustang ticked all the boxes.

Other than the obvious - yes, I’ll need brake,’suspension, and safety upgrades… are there any red flags here?

Anyone else have a street legal first gen Mustang track car?

Edit:

• thanks for all the advice that modern cars are better and more cost effective. That’s not really in question here.
• question is, what would it take, and will it be fun enough for HPDE?
• if I wanted to be competitive, I’d just show up in a high dollar Porsche, but I’m not there for lap time comparisons, but for fun and personal challenge.
• yes, I do mean first gen 65-69. Those are the light ones.
• yes, I do have track and autocross experience, though only in “horsepower” vehicles, not in lighter and better handling cars, which is what I’m aiming for here. Just not a Miata.

Final edit: It’s still a fantastic idea, as long as fantastic includes about $20k more than I have to spend. Could have and should have done this years ago before going through other cars like the G42. Bottom line, gotta suck it up and BRZ, which honestly is a fantastic little car. Just loses all the other appeals of a raw analog cornering beast that I was looking for. It’s still be fun.

See you on the tracks in SoCal!

I would like to drive on the Nurmburgring again for the 2nd time. my first experience was 1 lap = new discs and pads, which are warped.

what can I do to prevent this?

skoda ocatvia vrs 2016

I don't want to buy new tires if I don't need to. That stuff is expensive...

Would ya'll feel confident in a tire ranging between 4-5/32nds of tread left with a tread wear rating of 240 to last for 2 full track days? If so, then I'm fine. I've driving on -1/32nds (bands showing), so I know it's not the end of the world to go below the legal limit. Also, these are the front 2 tires.

Thanks!!!!