CarAV Discord

I recently installed a brand new Alpine iLX-W670 into a 2006 Dodge Magnum and it's having some issues. I can't access Bluetooth functions on the head unit, but was able to pair my phone to the unit by finding it in available devices listed (so through my phone but not the head unit). When I connect the display shows the song info, and appears to be playing but there is no sound at all.

Same for the SiriusXM option. It shows the preview channels but no sound comes out at all.

I can get sound no problem through normal radio.

Wondering if this is a common problem or if there's something I need to do to correct these issues.

Thanks,

Would like to upgrade my car system with an amp and kicker key loc system... how do I set up the amp in three channel mode to run the fronts and a sub? Do I set the crossovers and gain points on the amp and then let the kicker keyloc do the tuning? Or can I get the key lock to tune the front components by themselves and then tune the sub by itself even though I'm only using two channels in?

I want to upgrade my wires but I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for it on this engine.

Wasn’t exactly sure where or how to ask. Every car I’ve had that I’ve put a system in I’ve kept the stock head unit and done a loc for my system off one of the rear speakers. I recently bought a car that has an aftermarket head unit installed and honestly, kinda clueless with what I need to do.

I sold my last car and honestly didn’t feel like pulling the loc, rcas, and fuse line. Do I just buy a set of rcas to go from the back of the head unit to my amp or do I need something in between. Also, never bought a fuse line is that something I can just buy?

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

Some combination of both. This will be my first speaker upgrade on any car I've owned so I'm not particularly sure of what I really want given I haven't listened to music through quality speakers yet.

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

2020 Toyota Camry LE w/ 7 inch LCD radio

• What is your maximum budget?

~$500 give or take $50.

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

Having it installed at a shop, budget does not include the cost of labor. Would be willing to spend ~$500 on the speakers and then whatever the shop charges me.

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

Stock

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

USA. I was originally looking at the Morel Maximo 6, but after consideration I think I'd rather spend some more on higher quality speakers, unless y'all think the difference isn't really worth the cost. Also I'm pretty sure I have a Rockford Fosgate amp somewhere but in the event I can't find it I'd also appreciate amp recommendations.

Stereo System

Hello,

I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata gls. I am looking to replace the stock stereo and I was looking for some guidance I have the JVC KW-X850BTS and I was wondering what else I will need on top of the stereo such as mount, wiring harnesses or a install kit, to make it work properly.

thanks

I just installed this and try and connect my iPhone It displays track # no info and pace bar,skip doesn’t work,but skip works on iPhone and corresponds with the screen,but I have no audio This hu is 2009,but I just pulled a 2008 pioneer deh-6000ub and it played audio off iPhone And here’s a confusing bit,if I change source on headunit it’ll pause Spotify,I get audio on tuner and cd,haven’t tried aux bc it’s 2.5

Sorry for the long drug out no structure paragraph But I’m looking for help,I wanna run this copper badass lol

I have 6.5” coaxial speakers that my subs drown out so I am looking for quality loud coaxial speakers

Help I hooked up my amp and went out and had to buy a new 25 fuse for it. But I turned up my music to about 24 volume and it blew and had to be replaced. Without looking which it's late rn and I can't give exact brands and specs all I know is it's a 540 watt amp and two ten inch subs. I don't need it that loud I was more wondering if something is wired incorrectly and if it will cause damage in the long run.

hello there,

i am installing a dsp in my mk7 golf that has the factory Dynaudio system (amplified front,rear and sub) i was wondering if i can use the HI level input on the dsp i am using (Audison bit nove DRC) or if the dsp wil not handle the output from the factory amplifer.

I've been looking into the new amps and I'm curious, does anyone know what the difference is between the AAK and Sport amps from deaf bonce?

My car only have two aftermarket dash speakers and a after market HU. Should I add a pair of 6x9 in the back for more bass? Or it's better a compact amplified subwoofer ?

Title. I just turned my amp up to fully power my subs. Will I blow them if I play then full out this early?

Just installed a new audio system in my regular cab truck.

The deck volume ranges from 0-35. The loudness between 0-34 has very little difference and then at 35 it jumps a lot.

I’ve checked my wiring, everything seems to be good. Brand new speaker wiring, speakers, sub and amp.

I’m running the following components.

(2) JL C2-690TX Coaxial 6x9 door speakers

(1) JL CS112 TW3 Subwoofer

Ran off a JL XDM500/3 amp

I’m using a Kenwood KMM-BT328U deck that was in the truck when I bought it but in new condition… could the deck quality be to poor for my setup causing this issue?

Thanks in advance! 🤙🏻

I have a JL audio 500/4 amp and was wondering if it’s worth it to connect to my kicker speakers in my car. Btw I have a 12 W7 for bass so really I’m just wondering if it will make the highs and mids louder or if it’s just not worth running.

I’m new to car audio and have some questions, I have a 21 Subaru wrx that came with a sound system when I bought it. It has a kenwood Excelon xr901-5 and a Jl audio 10w3 and I plan to upgrade to a big mono block amp to power a larger sub and use the kenwood to power my door speakers. From what I know the stock head unit does not have rca outputs yet there’s rcas plugged into my amp? Does this mean someone had put in a line output converter?

PS I tried to post this on the audiophile sub reddit but they removed it I'm sick of the censorship BS...

I have a MiniDSP connected to Coxial via a cheap $20 dollar dac from Amazon and a usb-c dock from a android device. I have a few different devices each has their issues such as with current dock my Oneplus 8 pro my phone refuses to connect to it but works on a cheap dock that I don't want to use. The Hiby R6 G3 it pretends to not be able to read the music off the sd card despite the card is accessible and complains about no internet for playing saved content for apps like Tidal and Qobuz. Now I was thinking about getting a Pixel 7 pro to connect to the dock and play music or trying a Schiit Modi 3 D/A. Now I'm not looking for this device to fast charge my phone maybe a slow charge. But would remove the need for a usb-c dock and the cheap dac.

I’ve finally decided to upgrade the speakers in my 2000 f150 extended cab. I’ve already installed a kenwood excelon dmx809s and ran another ground wire to the frame.

I bought the infinity kappa KAPPA 683XF and planned on buying the kappa four amp but unfortunately right after I bought it, it went out of stock and discontinued. I’ve been emailing their support finding another replacement but wanted to see what the community recommended/liked vs their support people.

(Discontinued) https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-175297-Infinity-Kappa-Four.html

(Support recommended) https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-178609-JBL-Club-A754.html

Doing my own research I came up with a jl audio or an alpine, alpine r2-a70f would get me the full rms peak rating of the speakers but I feel the Jl xd400/4v2 would be nicer. I’m not sure if I need to even worry about the peak power output as the cab is small and I mostly do town driving. I have a 10” kicker than I plan on upgrading later on so I’m not worried about bass with these.

Speakers webpage with specs.

https://www.harmanaudio.com/infinity/KAPPA683XF-.html?srsltid=AfmBOooOeSuxUeOdwAZeM8WGvSiTeje3j_yBE05GFFqzA2dcJFeXxZ8A

100w rms,300w peak 3ohm 93db@ 2.83V sensitivity

Two amps I found:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-81602-JL-Audio-XD400-4v2.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-199893-Alpine-R2-A60F.html

Id greatly appreciate any help anyone could offer.

So i've been reading some things, some videos do some don't. I was wondering if you need to use the loc's remote wire at all if i'm just going to run a remote wire from my accessory fuse to my amp. I plan on having the loc connected to my head units rear speakers, and then having those rcas connect to my amp, i was wondering if i need to use the remote wire on my loc, i'm also sort of wondering if i need to use the constant and ground. I've installed subs before but i'm doing it on a vehicle without a factory amp. it's a 2024 wrx manual.

So I have a 1996 c1500 regular cab with only about 6 or so inches behind the seat to work with and I have always been a fan of lows when it comes to sound systems and wish I could rival my old setup which was 2 full sized 15s in a crew cab truck but I know that’s not going happen lmao. What shallow subs would yall recommend? And would a ported box or sealed work better with how much airspace I don’t have lol.

Is this essentially going to be similar to installing in a standard car, maybe even simpler? The 12v battery is already in the trunk so i dont think i need to run anything thru firewall, I just need to know if there is any danger doing a sub install and fucking up our only car. So if anyone has experience with this please advise and thank you in advance

So my subwoofer the Audiopipe txx-bdc4-15d2 is dual 2 ohm voice coil so can do either 4ohms or 1ohm, right now it is wired to 4ohm until I install my 300amp alternator (right now stock 130amp), My amplifier the Taramps Smart 3 can do 2000 watts at 4 ohm (though my alternator probably can't) and can do 3000 watts at 2 or 1 ohm... So I am wanting to install the alternator and rewire the sub to 1 ohm, I am curious if this will give some headroom and reduce clipping at desired volumes. Also people have said the subwoofer can handle 3000 watts even though it is rated at 1400 rms.. does anyone have an opinion, I know the audiopipe bdc4 subwoofers are over engineered and it can probably handle it but I also don't want to just destroy the subwoofer. Running it in a closed box rn btw if that makes a difference. It is loud but I would like it louder if possible. Thanks.

Tl;dr: Would running at 1ohm vs 4ohm my amplifier more headroom and reduce the chance of clipping at higher volumes? 3000watts vs 2000watts. Also do you think my subwoofer audiopipe txx-bdc4-15d2 can handle 3000 watts even though it's rated at 1400rms, and does it make a difference if it is in a sealed box?

Allright, i'm in a bit of a pickle rn. I am planing to buy a whole audio setup for my car, but there's a problem.

These are the components I'm planing to buy;

Head Unit: Kenwood KRC888d (1980s cassette deck head unit)

Hertz HCP5D (Amp)

Hertz CS200S4 (Sub)

Hertz CK165F (Speakers)

The problem I am having is how do you actually go about connecting a cassette head unit to a subwoofer when there are no sub outputs, but just fr, fl, rr, rl? Cheers!

PS. I understand that I need to connect the head unit to the amp, but how does the subwoofer get the signal then.

I want to change the stock speakers on my Golf 4. I currently have 2 front speakers with a SONY CDX-GT25 head unit. I was thinking of getting some JBL Stage3 607c speakers, 4 of them and a SONY DSX-GS80 high power stereo. I would like to know if this would be a good setup. The speakers are 50w rms and the head unit is 45w rms each channel. I'm guessing it would be fine. I like the idea of not needing an amp to benefit from my speakers. I also don't like heavy bass(the kind that sounds like crap and shakes the car) so I am not looking for a sub as long as the speakers are enough. We'll see. How do I need to wire the head unit and the speakers? I've read that I have to use special wiring that can handle the greater power(idk what I'm talking about). The wires that come with the head unit are 18 gauge and from my understanding it would be better to use 16 or 14 gauge wires.

Thank you! :)